From: Darren Blin Subject: (dr350) DR350 FAQ? Date: 01 Apr 1999 09:33:35 -0500 Hi I'm new here. Is there a FAQ for this mailing list by any chance? Thanks -Darren Blin ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" Subject: (dr350) Yamaha to roll out TT850 (very long) Date: 01 Apr 1999 08:29:12 -0700 It looks like there is going to be a horse race between Yamaha and BMW to see who can roll out their big trailies first. This report confirmed by Yamaha Motor Corp USA's, Jeff Malden. The TT850 was presented to Yamaha executives yesterday. Gino Pokluda, editor, Dual Sport News >>Yamaha has announced that it will return to the world of big dual sports with an early release model of the TT850 Gila (pronounced HE-la) named after the vast National Forest and wilderness area in southern New Mexico along the Arizona border. "Before we unveil this milestone dual sport," explained Jeff Malden, executive director US marketing for Yamaha Motor Corp, "you would be well advised to forget everything you've ever learned about dual sports before you see the Gila." Good advice, because the TT850 is definitely not like any dual sport you've ever seen. For starters, the TT850 Gila has more high tech components and computer driven functions than the space shuttle. The big news is the 850cc parallel twin, which despite early speculation, is not related in any way to the TDM850 engine. "The only thing the two engines share are displacement numbers," claims Malden. The new 12 valve TT850 twin is amazing in many respects, most notably its lack of a conventional valve train. The TT850 does not have a camshaft, cam chain or any of the other bits and pieces that are needed to operate valves. The 850 instead uses 12 (6 per cylinder) computer driven solenoids to lift the valves which are closed by a spring. Yamaha claims a weight savings of almost 20 pounds in the engine alone and maintenance is dramatically reduced. These valves never need adjustment and with the Yamaha supported software, can be adjusted for different profiles depending on riding conditions. What happens if a number of solenoids go bad? First, if a solenoid fails, the valve will close. Second, the TT850 can run quite well on two valves per cylinder despite their small size. The onboard controller will go into "default mode" and operate the remaining operational valves to accommodate the disabled valves. Solenoid failure is unlikely however. "These solenoids have been operated continuously for weeks at a time in conditions that would kill the rider. So we think a solenoid failure will be rare," explained Malden. The TT850 is also fuel injected. The same controller that operates the valves controls the fuel injection system and emissions. Two 44mm throttle bodies feed the hungry twin, which, via a software program, can be configured for performance or economy without ever touching a screwdriver or wrench. All of this is done via what Yamaha calls the Engine Control Processor, or ECP. The ECP resides in a well protected compartment, molded into the tank of the Gila. Unlock the compartment and the hatch folds out to reveal a fair sized LCD touch screen. A small port is there that allows you to attach any IBM compatible PC running Windows 98 or NT to the bike. You can custom tune the bike and download up to 50 engine profiles into the bike which are stored on a 10 gigabyte hard drive. On the road, you can bring up the Select Profile Menu on the onboard screen and select which engine profile you want to run, although Yamaha strongly suggests this be done while stopped on the side of the road. Press the Apply button and the profile immediately takes affect. Should the computer fail, a back chip located in the different location with a default profile will supply vital engine control automatically and allow you to ride the bike indefinitely with factory valve and injection settings. To give you an idea of the range of performance the TT850 engine can attain with the ECP system, the engine can be tuned via software to deliver 109 horse power and 76 ft/lbs. of torque to 86 horsepower and 95 ft/lbs. of torque. It can be configured to achieve up to 74 mpg and as low as 33 mpg in its high performance mode. Having all of the information of the TT850 thrown at you is like trying to drink from a fire hydrant and Yamaha admits that buyer may have to attend a tuning course to get the full benefit of the ECP. But it doesn't stop there, as the balance of the bike is just as radical. The gets a revised version of the "Omega" frame first used on the GTS1000. The frame is composed of two large side plates that bolt the side of the engine and serve as the mounting point for the suspension and sub frame. Both parts of the Omega frame are used as air boxes, grabbing air via two louvered scoops and ramming it into the throttle bodies. Also borrowing from the GTS1000, the Gila uses a highly modified RADD derived front. The Gila's "high approach" front arm is made from tubular steel and is linked to allow a very tight turning radius. It has a multi adjustable front shock and 340mm full floating rotor with a six-piston caliper for confident braking. The rear end also features a hollow single sided swing-arm from cast aluminum. Not too unusual, you say? How about the fact that the non-o-ring final drive chain runs inside the swing arm in an oil bath and the swing arm pivot is also the counter shaft so you never have to guess about chain tension. Chain maintenance is via an access panel that runs the length of the swing-arm. As a matter of fact, Yamaha claims that the aluminum sprockets and #520 chain will not need replacement until you hit the 50,000 mile mark. Rear braking is accomplished a two piston caliper and a 300mm rear brake disc both of which will stay behind when the rear wheel is removed. Suspension was not spared the high tech treatment either. A large, fully adjustable shock is located at each end of the Gila. Each shock is attached to a hydraulic linkage, which can lengthen or shorten, thus increasing or decreasing the seat height of the bike. The control for this is located on the left-hand grip. Rotating the graduated grip will raise or lower the bike or you can lock the grip and set a fixed ride height via the LCD control panel. Operating range of the TT850 is from a 28 inches to 35 inches in seat height. Malden admits that the extreme ends of the operating range cause the TT850 to handle quite differently due to the lengthening and shortening of the wheel base. Speaking of wheels, this is where the Gila goes from wild to bizarre. The Gila uses the exact same wheel size as the venerable TW200. "Don't try to run a TW200 tires on it (TT850) though," warns Malden. "You will shred them just pulling away from a stop light." Instead, Yamaha has been working secretly with Bridgestone, Dunlop and Michelin to develop a variety of treat options. "The use of shorter wider tires and wheels was a bit odd at first, but we realized it was best that this bike had a big foot print," explained Malden. "The front and back suspensions worked so well, that we could get away with shorter wider wheels and tires which give the bike unequalled handling on loose surfaces like gravel and sand." But what about picking your way through tight stuff and highway riding? "No problem," replied Malden. "The TT850 is ready for any type of riding, and the new tire design makes it stable and the highway and nimble off road." As you may have guessed, the Gila must have some extraordinary electrical power needs. To keep electrical consumption in check, Yamaha used fiber optics wherever possible. Also, by taking advantage of the extremely compact engine, Yamaha was able to fit twin 600watt alternators to feed TT850's ravenous appetite for electricity. Bodywork is minimal on the Gila. A smallish frame mounted fairing mates up to the 4.2-gallon plastic fuel tank. One large round headlight graces the front with two smaller projector lamps mounted into recesses on the front of the fuel tank. Instruments are LCD analog with a full complement of warning indicators and a built in GPS. Handlebars non-braced taper fare with hand guards available as an option. Switch-gear is somewhat unconventional and cluttered with the addition of some new controls for ride height and steering damper control. The seat has a slight step in it but is reasonably wide and firm. The tail section is clean, with two tail racks available as an option. There is a noticeable lack of rear side panels on the Gila for a good reason as Yamaha decided to polish the rear sub-frame and show it off. Yamaha knew riders would want more fuel capacity, but the special fuel tank with the compartment for the ECP would make an after market unit hard to make. So Yamaha decided to beef up the sub-frame to allow for the attachment of supplemental fuel cells on the sides of the Gila. The molded plastic fuel cells add 3.7 gallons (2 gallons on the left, 1.7 on the right) and look trick with aircraft style filler caps. They attach to welded bosses on the sub-frame and have quick connect fuel lines. Yamaha found that even loaded with the 7.9 gallons of fuel, the Gila did not exhibit the characteristic top heaviness of a dual sport with a "tanker style" fuel tank. Now for the two big questions: how heavy and how much? For as loaded as the TT850 is, it is surprisingly light at 362 lbs. dry. The big gains in weight reduction were with the electronic valve train and tubular RADD front swing arm. Not surprising is the price tag for the Gila. At $12,000, the Gila is expensive for a dual sport, but when you consider the amount of technology loaded in it, it may be the value of the millennium.<< ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" Subject: (dr350) BMW drops F650, brings back R80GS (long) Date: 01 Apr 1999 08:51:38 -0700 I told you it was coming! In an unprecedented marketing move, BMW is bringing back a highly revised R80GS and dropping the F650 despite a PD win and also just rolling out the new K1200LT. BMW has never introduced a new K and R model in the same year, but it is happening now. My source attended an internal showing of the bike and it sounds super. BMW is also trying to beat out Yamaha who is also expected to announce a high tech dual sport soon. Here is my sources report. Formal announcement date should be in the next week or so. Gino, editor, Dual Sport News DATELINE 4/1/99 BMW brings back the R80GS! In a stunning announcement, BMW has announced that they will discontinue the F650 and bring back the R80GS in 2000. "We were never really comfortable with the F650," explained Max Fritz, BMW's R80GS project lead. "Even though it did well in Dakar, it rubbed a lot of people the wrong way, so we decided to do something about it." What BMW decided to do was take a healthy serving of past success and mix it with some future high tech and blend it into the revival of one of the most beloved BMW models. "The R80GS is simply not an expensive retro bike based on an old air head design," claimed the white lab coat wearing Fritz. "It is a bike that is back to basics, but still cutting edge." From the looks of the pre-production model, BMW's new R80GS will stand the dual sport world on end. First, BMW broke from tradition and formed a "skunk works" of sorts to design the new R80, leaving the marketing folks completely out of the loop. A risky move, the "skunk works" approach paid off. Despite the engineers having free reign, the new R80GS is one good-looking motorcycle yet extremely functional. But first, the down and dirty tech stuff. The R80GS uses a highly modified oil head engine that develops 73 peak hp and 69 ft/lbs of torque. Fritz would not give many details regarding the new 802cc oilhead, but did say that the overall width of the engine was reduced by almost 3 inches. BMW gave the R80 an aluminum perimeter frame and thus was able to lighten the engine cases considerably. The engine hangs from the new "Low Spar Frame", which has integrated channels that serve as the air box, drawing air from up near the steering head and routes it to the carburetors which are now located forward of the cylinder, not the back. That's right. No more fuel injection, no more Motronic surging. The R80 uses "Electric Slide" carburetors that have a solenoid actuated slide. "These are smart carburetors," claims Fritz. They are wire operated, that is, there are no cables to them. Instead there is a small sensor in the throttle housing that sends a signal to the carburetors. What's more, is that the carburetors are self-balancing to ease maintenance. With a low frame, the lack of an air box and no need for a high output alternator, there is plenty of room up top for a large fuel tank. The R80Gs has not one, not two nor three, but four fuel tank options. There are the stock 4.7 gallon tank and the expedition 8.3 gallon tank. Then there is the accessory tank that is a marvel. It will hold 6.5 gallons and has a molded in section towards the front of the tank, that allows for the mounting of a GPS and full set of lighted gauges. Finally, if that weren't enough, there is the Universal tank at 5.8 gallons with an attachment plate that allows for hard mounting a tank bag and has the indent for a set of gauges or a GPS. As you may have guessed, the combination of an opposed twin with a perimeter frame will result in a low center of gravity. To say the R80GS has a low CG is an understatement; the CG on this bike is ultra low. Despite its 10 inches of ground clearance and longish 10 inches of travel front and back, the adjustable seat height ranges from a low (buy DP standards) 29.3 inches to 33.2 inches. You sit 'in' the R80GS, not on it. Suspension is also non-tradition by current BMW standards. Gone is the heavy, gimmicky Telelever from the front and replaced with massive 48mm conventional forks with Kevlar fork gaiters standard. No more fixed front fender either; the R80 has a conventional high mounted fender, which rides above a 21 inch tube type spoked wheel. At the rear end, gone is the Paralever and the single sided swingarm. Instead, the R80 uses an unusual swing arm that reportedly weighs less that two-thirds what the Paralever weighed. The right side of the swingarm has the housing for the new "Flexible Shaft" which is a composite material that allows it to be a mere 1" in diameter. The left side is braced tubular that has the mounting for the specially linked, fully adjustable single shock which reportedly controls "shaft hop" instead of the vulnerable U-joints in the Paralever. An 18 inch tube type spoked wheel gets the power to the ground. Brakes are composed of two, full floating 300mm disks up front with Brembo two pot calipers. The rear has a 240mm fixed rotor with a Brembo two piston caliper. As with all BMWs, the R80GS can be fitted with two full sized BMW cases for touring. But what about the muffler getting in the way of the left sidecase? There is no muffler! New technology has allowed BMW to build a new exhaust system that incorporates the silencer and catalytic converter into the walls of the ceramic coated exhaust pipes. They appear a little wider than a conventional header pipe and they are the same O.D. from cylinder head to end. The 2-into-2 system is routed under the seat and out the back. Thanks to the ceramic coating, most of the heat is expelled out the rear nozzles. A Forest Service approved cartridge style spark arrestor lives in each pipe/muffler. Instrumentation is surprisingly basic with analog speedometer and tachometer tucked neatly behind a small front cowling. Want a little more wind protection? The cowling can be replaced with a cowling windscreen combination that will give better wind protection. The handle bar is a trick tapered unit that comes stock with aluminum core wrap around hand guards. The hand guards have even tricker swing away mirrors mounted to them that will fold on impact, but provide an unequalled view behind you since they are located so close to the end of the handle bar. The also have the turn signals built into them. Instead of turn signal and brake light bulbs, BMW uses a cluster of high output LEDs that are vibration resistant. The R80GS is absolutely sinister when viewed from the front. Each of the dual round headlights are mounted outboard of the fork legs. The large center section vacated by the usual headlight location is now occupied by the large oval shaped intake scoop/air cleaner. It sounds strange, but looks all the world like an AC Cobra. A Kevlar/rubber boot connects the scoop to the frame intake tract. "This bike is intended for rugged use and abuse," exclaimed Fritz. To make his point, he righted the R80GS, retracted the side stand and let the bike fall on the concrete. Amazingly, no plastic bits and pieces skittered across the floor, despite the loud "thunk" of the bike hitting the floor. Lifting the R80 off the floor revealed another non-traditional BMW feature; light weight. The R80GS weighs a scant 328 pounds dry with the stock fuel cell. The R80 is finished off with a wide flat seat that rides up onto the tank and a generous luggage rack. Seating position is pure dual sport with upright posture and arms reaching for wide handlebars. The adjustable seat and foot pegs provide ample legroom no matter what your inseam is. BMW decided to spare the R80 the "ugly-silver-paint" treatment that it has lavishly applied to all of its bikes since the early 90's. Polished and clear coated aluminum now graces the body lines of the GS and gives the R80 a real top-shelf look. The whole package is made even more lucrative by another BMW first; a low price. "We knew this bike would have to be priced right to succeed," explained Fritz. So with that in mind, the R80GS will sell for about $7,199.00. That's right. The 2000 R80GS will be priced less than a 1999 F650. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" Subject: (dr350) (NKLRNDR) With regret.... Date: 01 Apr 1999 10:02:57 -0700 As some of you know, I will be unemployed soon, so I am looking at other means to support my family. After great soul searching and numerous discussions with my family, I have decided that I will be entering the publishing world full scale. I have already applied for my business license and will be searching or a publishing company. I want to thank all of you for your support of Dual Sport News in the past. Unfortunately, there is no money in dual sports, so I will converting DSN to Cruiser News immediately. The Utah Get-Together will now be the Utah Cruiser Happening. Fred, please make note of this. Bill haycock has been ordered to change the DSN web page to The Official Cruiser News Web Page. Fred has agreed to stop stocking dual sport parts and stock up on cruiser add-on chrome and leather fringe supplies. Sorry for the inconvenience. Gino, editor, Cruiser News ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" Subject: (dr350) RE: (klr650) (NKLRNDR) With regret.... Date: 01 Apr 1999 10:17:41 -0700 >>Happy April Fool's Day to You Too I wish it was a joke. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Comobu@aol.com Subject: (dr350) dr350 kouba links Date: 01 Apr 1999 20:03:57 EST Dan... 230 lbs! See what others say but the links may make the rear end much too soft for your weight... I'm 205 and with the stock shock, preload cranked way down it blows thru the stroke quickly and bottoms hard in to the rear fender well...but for trailriding it's super plush (the first part of the rear wheel travel) and I kept em on and like it...for fast riding, hard hits, whoops it may not work for you??? The bare minimum for you is to upgrade to a heavier rear spring in the rear... sitting on the bike with full gear it should sag 3 1/2 inches. The front end is easy.. Eibach .43 kg springs fit the Showa 43mm forks and cut a PVC spacer to end up with 15 mm of preload... forget trying to preload the stock springs...it's not the same as using a spring with a stiffer spring rate... Guy @ comobu.aol ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Cloudhid@aol.com Subject: (dr350) Re: TT850 & R80GS Scoops & New Job Date: 01 Apr 1999 21:02:22 EST Amazing stuff Gino. I noted that some of the improvements being proposed by Yamaha and BMW are the very ideas you've previously expressed. I doubt either company will live up to their PR though. Losing your job is the best thing that could happen to you. Now you will be free to design a DS of your own making. Let me know where to send my deposit. I want the first one. Redondo Ron (waiting for the miracle to come) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (dr350) Re: (klr650) Re: TT850 & R80GS Scoops & New Job Date: 01 Apr 1999 19:26:57 -0700 | Amazing stuff Gino. I noted that some of the improvements being | proposed by Yamaha and BMW are the very ideas you've previously | expressed. I doubt either company will live up to their PR though. | | Losing your job is the best thing that could happen to you. Now you | will be free to design a DS of your own making. Let me know where | to send my deposit. I want the first one. | | Redondo Ron (waiting for the miracle to come) If BMW wanted to truly be retro why would they make the R80 an oilhead... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Warr" Subject: Re: (dr350) Yamaha to roll out TT850 (very long) Date: 01 Apr 1999 22:57:12 -0700 Had me going till I remembered what day it is. Imagine all that technology in a dual sport! Fantasy, for sure. TW ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bil Seymour Subject: (dr350) The Wildman from Minnesota Date: 01 Apr 1999 18:46:06 -0800 Hey, Dan --

    You mentioned that you sneaked the DR down the stairs this week.  Dare I ask:  How do you get it up to the second floor every year?  You sound like a True Motorcyclist.  As always . . .

        Ride Safely and Have Fun,

                <<<<    Bil  Seymour    >>>>
 
  ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "david olson" Subject: Re: (dr350) Need Info on Kouba Links Date: 02 Apr 1999 05:44:58 -0500 I got my front springs for my 91 from Race-Tech.com. Their web site has a spring chart for different weight riders and bikes. They suggested a kit with springs and a couple sets of what I would call adjuster springs. This let you vary the spring rate if needed. Mine are at the .46/kg/mm setting and I weigh about 215-220 dry. My problem was front end dive on bermed turns. The springs made a big difference in how the bike turns in and corners. The front end would dive so bad before that I would end up going over the bars. I wouldnt bother trying to shim up the stock springs. All this does is set your front sag too high. My next update will be a heavier rear spring and maybe a set of the links. I think I will ry a spring before I try a set of the links. Good luck! Our riding season in Michigan starts today, Good Friday! -----Original Message----- > >-----Original Message----- >From: Dan Schewe >To: 'dr350@lists.xmission.com' >Date: Wednesday, March 31, 1999 4:02 AM >Subject: (dr350) Need Info on Kouba Links > > >> Any recommendations for spring rates (front and rear) for >>a plump 230 lbs rider that doesn't like the front end diving when the >>breaks are applied? Upgrading the springs will hopefully prevent bottoming >>out off jumps, but I mainly want to minimize the front-end dive, especially >>when encountering nasty down hill trails. >> >>Any info would be helpful and appreciated... >> >>Dan >> >> >> > >Hello Dan, > >Before you spring for some new springs ;<) you might try adding some more >"preload" to the springs that you already have. You could add about 1/2" to >1" in the front and see what that does for you. Use a stack of washers or >cut some PVC pipe the same size as your springs and put this spacer on top. >The rear spring can be tightened by the big adjustment nut on the shock. >Measure your "sag" and see if it is close to 4". Sag is the difference >between the measurement at the rear axle to point at the end of the frame >when the suspension is fully extended (wheel off the ground)and when it is >compressed by you and all your riding gear. This will usually require >someone else to take the measurements while you sit on the seat in your >normal riding position with all of your weight. > >Springs will cost you around $60 for the front and $80 for the rear. > >Fred Hink >^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > Arrowhead Motorsports >http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/ >435-259-7356 Fax 435-259-9148 >^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: aches@deltech.net (Andrus Chesley) Subject: (dr350) The beauty of suzy Date: 01 Apr 1999 21:21:27 -0600 Did a trip today. About 90 miles going to Forest Hill, Louisiana on back roads , mostly gravel. Then run about 10 miles of the Woodworth Loop. Really muddy but runnable. This is the same loops that the National Enduro was run last Sat & Sun. The tires really needed help as the stockers are far from wet condition tires. Both ends sliding all over the place but we didn't go down. Very few places I had to slip the clutch. Very few places I could use 2nd gear with stock gearing at 15/41 ( I think ). Needed my 13 on there but had left it at home.. .. Lost the cover to the little tool kit.. hmmmmm. must of been pulled off by brush. so we'll elimenated the little dude as it doesn't seem fesible to replace it. Just put the tools in the tailpack. ..... Then aimed my worn out old body to the highway and back to Jennings via highway and 60 - 65 MPH. Was stopped in a little town because the law though my bike was a dirt bike with all the mud on it and me. But after showing them that it had Hi/Low beam, brake lites, signal lights that worked, rear view mirrows and even a licience plate;; they said "Cool and let me go" ha ha ha I had left the regestration and inspection sticker in my other helment at home. In Louisiana, motorcycles have to pass the same inspection as a car and have the sticker with you so they can gig you on that if they want you bad enuff. After this it was ZIP to Jennings and stop at the car wash to clean the bike and me. No I didn't shove dirt into the seals and bearings. ;-). Hey!!!!! Is this dual sporting or what? Ha ha ha -- Cheers and Best Regards Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking '97 BMW R11RA (Amiga) '97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy) "So Many Roads, So Little Time" http://www.deltech.net/members/aches ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" Subject: (dr350) Tim's side racks. Date: 02 Apr 1999 07:05:57 -0700 Got my side racks for my DR350 from Tim Bernard. As always, workmanship is perfect. These things should be standard on all dual sports. Great job Tim! Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" Subject: (dr350) DR turn signal relocation Date: 02 Apr 1999 07:07:54 -0700 This may have already been covered, but I'm planning on going with smaller turn signals on my DR350SE. Has anyone found a supplier for the small electrical connectors Suzuki uses on their turn signals? Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs Subject: (dr350) A "Pipe" question Date: 02 Apr 1999 22:36:07 -0600 Hi all, I am fairly new to the dr350 , just got it a few month ago, before that i was into street bikes mainly. I know it is a 350 and not a big monster but it feels to me right now little bit on week side , and could use a little more power , any body had any good experience putting an after market pipe on it ? Does it really wake up the bike , is it noticeable after the installation or just gets louder? And does it worth $200. If the answer is YES , than what brand do you recommend? Or any other technical info on power boost would be appreciated Thanks Geo ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "loren & julie bohl" Subject: (dr350) GOOD FRIDAY RIDE IN N. WIS. Date: 03 Apr 1999 15:00:57 -0600 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE7DE2.C767C4A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We just done a ride in the Chippewa Falls on Good Fri., it has been = going on since 1967 when an old acquaintance started the ride by taking = his kids there to ride snowmobiles, after that they did the trail bike = thing with some friends and yesterday there was about 40 to 50 people = with everything from YZF400's to old three wheelers.=20 It looked like almost everyone was having a ball accept for the = usual unprepared squid trying to do a rebuild the day of. The only = accident I knew of was a single rider miss calculated the braking = ability of his new knobs on a tar road, they hauled him back to the = parking area instead of back to civilation, so it must not have been all = that bad...hopefully!=20 The layout is a county forest off HWY#64 north of Bloomer Wi., Very = close to a snowmobile/atv. supply shop called Art's Electric, pretty = back woodsy, but I've heard nothing but good things about the place. The = trails loop off from a few gravel roads, and there are plenty of them. = My brother and I didn't see too many bikes while we were out on the = trails so it was pretty spread out. Anyway, back to the guy who started it, he used to ride trail bike, = road tour, and even came to Brainerd Raceway when his kid started that, = then one day we see this guy and he's in a wheel chair. It turns out he = was having a pretty simple operation when the surgeon damaged his spinal = cord. WOW I guess you never know. But there he was in the parking lot = watching everyone else havin a ball, I think it made him feel good = having started it. The DR350 worked flawlessly as usual, the only nasty is the head = light which must have been smashed by one of the other bikes we were = chasing...What a blast, lots of mud, sand, gravel roads, we even found a = few single track trails. We also found some really nasty logging trails which were still = frozen under about a foot of mud----we actually turned around on that = one, and that rarely happens. From what I've heard there will be another one next year, if anyone = wants to know any thing else about it let me know. Is there anyone around this area who is going to the Thielman ride = in Southeast Minnesota on 5/22&23/99, we went last year the spring ride = was a blast, very tight trails, they even had a section that was labeled = "more difficult" and it was. I think the Fall ride is the last weekend = in Aug. LOREN DR350ES =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE7DE2.C767C4A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

    We just done a = ride in the=20 Chippewa Falls on Good Fri., it has been going on since 1967 when an old = acquaintance started the ride by taking his kids there to ride = snowmobiles,=20 after that they did the trail bike thing with some friends and yesterday = there=20 was about 40 to 50 people with everything from YZF400's to old three = wheelers.=20
    It looked like = almost=20 everyone was having a ball accept for the usual unprepared squid trying = to do a=20 rebuild the day of.  The only accident I knew of was a single rider = miss=20 calculated the braking ability of his new knobs on a tar road, they = hauled him=20 back to the parking area instead of back to civilation, so it must not = have been=20 all that bad...hopefully!
    The layout is a = county forest=20 off HWY#64 north of Bloomer Wi., Very close to a snowmobile/atv. supply = shop=20 called Art's Electric, pretty back woodsy, but I've heard nothing but = good=20 things about the place. The trails loop off from a few gravel roads, and = there=20 are plenty of them. My brother and I didn't see too many bikes while we = were out=20 on the trails so it was pretty spread out.
    Anyway, back to = the guy who=20 started it, he used to ride trail bike, road tour, and even came to = Brainerd=20 Raceway when his kid started that, then one day we see this guy and he's = in a=20 wheel chair. It turns out he was having a pretty simple operation when = the=20 surgeon damaged his spinal cord.   WOW I guess you never know. = But=20 there he was in the parking lot watching everyone else havin a ball, I = think it=20 made him feel good having started it.
    The DR350 worked = flawlessly=20 as usual, the only nasty is the head light which must have been smashed = by one=20 of the other bikes we were chasing...What a blast, lots of mud, sand, = gravel=20 roads, we even found a few single track trails.
    We also found = some really=20 nasty logging trails which were still frozen under about a foot of = mud----we=20 actually turned around on that one, and that rarely = happens.
 
    From what I've = heard there=20 will be another one next year, if anyone wants to know any thing else = about it=20 let me know.
 
    Is there anyone = around this=20 area who is going to the Thielman ride in Southeast Minnesota on = 5/22&23/99,=20 we went last year the spring ride was a blast, very tight trails, they = even had=20 a section that was labeled "more difficult" and it was.  = I think=20 the Fall ride is the last weekend in Aug.
 
LOREN DR350ES  =
------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE7DE2.C767C4A0-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: njkouba@ix.netcom.com Subject: Fwd: (dr350) Need Info on Kouba Links Date: 03 Apr 1999 18:08:54 -0600 (CST) Reply-To: Dan Schewe Does anyone know what differentiates a Kouba link to a stock linkage? What is the difference in centerline hole spacing and how the centerline spacing on the link sized or optimized (rider weight, terrain, etc.)? With the addition of a Kouba Link, do you need to change the rear shock spring rate? My bike is a 1994 DR350SE. Second question: Any recommendations for spring rates (front and rear) for a plump 230 lbs rider that doesn't like the front end diving when the breaks are applied? Upgrading the springs will hopefully prevent bottoming out off jumps, but I mainly want to minimize the front-end dive, especially when encountering nasty down hill trails. Any info would be helpful and appreciated... Dan Dan; I would reccomend .46KG fork springs, and a 7.6KG shock spring with the Kouba links or a 6.7KG shock spring with the stock links for all around riding. If mogals and jumps are in the majority of your riding, then the next stiffer rear spring would be required respectively. Am working on a info sheet and will post it soon. Norm Suzuki DR Suspensions www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: njkouba@ix.netcom.com Subject: Fwd: Re: (dr350) Need Info on Kouba Links Date: 03 Apr 1999 18:08:53 -0600 (CST) On 04/02/99 05:44:58 you wrote: > >I got my front springs for my 91 from Race-Tech.com. Their web site has a >spring chart for different weight riders and bikes. > They suggested a kit with springs and a couple sets of what I would call >adjuster springs. This let you vary the spring rate if needed. Mine are at >the .46/kg/mm setting and I weigh about 215-220 dry. >My problem was front end dive on bermed turns. The springs made a big >difference in how the bike turns in and corners. The front end would dive >so bad before that I would end up going over the bars. I wouldnt bother >trying to shim up the stock springs. All this does is set your front sag too >high. >My next update will be a heavier rear spring and maybe a set of the links. I >think I will ry a spring before I try a set of the links. >Good luck! >Our riding season in Michigan starts today, Good Friday! Dave; The Kouba Links will require a 7.6KG spring and the stock links would require a 6.7KG, or possibly even a little heavier depending on your riding style ect. What I,m trying to say is you may not have the correct spring if you decided to go with the links. The good news is, if you were not satisfied with the performance of the links you can send them back within 30 days for a full refund less $3.00 frt. Norm Suzuki DR Suspensions www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Doug Bragg Subject: (dr350) A "Pipe" question Date: 04 Apr 1999 10:00:53 -0700 Several friends who have use the new Supertrapp IDS (Internal Disc System) on their bikes and have seen dramatic improvements. The nice thing about them is they aren't obnoxiously loud like some pipes are. Anyone else have comments on pipes? I'm interested in replacing my stock pipe on my 94 SE model. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (dr350) A "Pipe" question Date: 04 Apr 1999 11:19:00 -0600 SuperTrapp makes two different IDS pipes. The quiet series is a nice mellow pipe that will help make power on the low and middle but not much more on the top end. The racing series will make more power everywhere but is also much louder. I use the quiet series on my XR650L and I use the FMF Megamax on my XR600. Both are good pipes for what they are designed to do. I can get you either an IDS($227) or the Megamax($249) for your DR. Fred Hink ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Arrowhead Motorsports http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/ 435-259-7356 Fax 435-259-9148 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ -----Original Message----- >Several friends who have use the new Supertrapp IDS (Internal Disc System) >on their bikes and have seen dramatic improvements. The nice thing about >them is they aren't obnoxiously loud like some pipes are. > >Anyone else have comments on pipes? I'm interested in replacing my stock >pipe on my 94 SE model. > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: RAld277@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) A "Pipe" question Date: 04 Apr 1999 13:31:29 EDT There are many advantages to changing the exhaust system on a DR, particularly if you own the dirt version. Almost without exception all after market exhaust will improve performance on this machine. The decision to get a pipe is easy. Trying to decide which one to get is a little more challenging. The first thing you have to decide is what you want the pipe to do for you. No one pipe is the best at all points in the power band. I ride the tight trails in the East. My main concern was to get maximum bottom end grunt. Any improvements to the mid and upper range of power would be a bonus. After that decision is made you can start doing the research. Lucky for you in the April issue of DIRT RIDER magazine they did an extensive comparison of after market pipes. The testing was performed on an XR 400 but the data is still relative. I would say this is a definite must read for all thumper riders. Unfortunately for me I had to do all my research the hard way, but after it was all said and done I chose "Mike Youngs Big Gun Exhaust." This pipe is awesome. It delivers massive bottom end improvement. Very good mid improvement and it even gives a little more up top. Another good thing about this pipe is the weight you save, about 10 lbs. if memory serves me. (My father uses the stock exhaust as a boat anchor) Of course there is a price to pay for this power and I don't mean money. This is a very loud exhaust system. It is however still legal in national parks with the spark arrester insert. I wouldn't try this pipe on my dual sport. Also you need to put a little money in the budget for rejetting. The bike will not even start without it. I was going to include Mike Youngs phone number but have misplaced it. If anyone has it please post it. Mike loves to talk to people about his product. He even spent about a half hour with me talking about other improvements I could make on my DR. (try getting the owner of FMF to do that) Before his accident he was one of the best thumper racers around and he is still one of the best guys in the business. Good Luck Robert A. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Cloudhid@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) A "Pipe" question Date: 04 Apr 1999 13:43:16 EDT On 4/4/99 , RAld277@aol.com writes: snip > I was going to include Mike Youngs phone number but have misplaced it. >If anyone has it please post it. Mike loves to talk to people about his product. >He even spent about a half hour with me talking about other improvements >I could make on my DR. (try getting the owner of FMF to do that) Before his >accident he was one of the best thumper racers around and he is still one >of the best guys in the business. [see April issue of DIRT RIDER magazine] I second that Robert. Mike is still tweaking his second generation 'quieter core'. This new slip in core is supposed to reduce the db level another 5 points below the current spark arrestor insert, without sacrificing any power. In the meantime, none of my neighbors have sent me any death threats... Mike Young - (909) 948-7029 http://www.biggunexhaust.com/ Redondo Ron - making friends wherever he rides ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Subject: Re: (dr350) DR350 Advice Date: 04 Apr 1999 12:39:28 -0700 Mike, Give Cycle Gear a call (800 cyclegear); ask for their Stage 1 kit - it contains a Uni filter, jetting & instructions on opening up the top of the air box. The best investment for the DR is suspension mods. Buy the Kouba link (a must have), go to his recommended rear & front springs (yes, do them both). You could have the front revalved later or do it now if you can afford it. The balance of mods available (there's many) won't add as much benefit/gain per $ as those above. John Hi everyone, I'm new to the list and also to the DR350. I just bought a 98 DR350SE on Monday. I live in Central Pennsylvania and I'm planning on dirt riding 95% of the time. I'm interested in geting some advice on modifications to the DR that will improve the performance in the dirt and not hurt the reliability of the bike. I have seen others talk about modifying the airbox but they haven't gone into detail as to how to do it. I would also like to find out more about carb jetting, suspension setups, tires, handguards etc. etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Mike p.s. I'm also looking for other riders and places to ride. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" Subject: (dr350) Plans for Moab 4/24/99 Date: 05 Apr 1999 15:05:33 -0600 What are the plans for the Moab trip on April 24? Is everyone going to... a. Go to Eddie McStiffs and drink beer all day b. Ride the White Rim Trail c. Buy parachutes and ride their bikes off of Musselman Arch d. All of the above Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (dr350) Plans.. Date: 05 Apr 1999 15:58:00 -0600 Gino raises a good question..plans. I think it would be a good idea to arrange a daily gathering point. How about the Moab diner each day at 8:00 a.m. for breakfast...departure at 9:00 a.m. So, those who don't want to join in for breakfast need to be there about 8:30 to get a sense of what rides are happening. I'm thinking Thursday would be a good day for the White Rim but I'm flexible...Why don't we all check in with this mailing list (just hit the reply to all) and we'll have an idea of when people are arriving. I'm going to arrive on Wednesday, the 21st. by 12:00. Still not sure if I'm camping, bringing the trailer or what... Kurt Please forgive the cross-post this one time, some of you will get this message 4 times...yikkess.. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tim Bernard" Subject: Re: (dr350) Plans.. Date: 05 Apr 1999 17:09:34 -0600 Hey Kurt & others this is my tenative agenda:Moab tentative trip plan Wednesday 4-21 travel to Goblin Valley State Park. Primitive camping Thursday 4-22 ride San Rafael Swell south of Interstate Friday 4-23 ride San Rafael Swell & depart in the afternoon to Moab to Canyon Lands RV Park. Saturday 4-24 Enjoy Moab Car Show etc.....maybe afternoon ride Sunday 4-25 Depart early for Dugout Ranch & Beef Basin .......long day Jerry & Tim need transportation this day Monday 4-26 Depart for Boise. You can do all of this on a Kouba prepared DR or get to Moab early & have Fred dial you in. Should we have a BBQA Canyonlands RV park Friday Or Satuurday night. Happy Trails Tim & Obe -----Original Message----- ; Minh Lang ; Mike Sonzini ; Kurt Simpson ; Jim Rowley ; Howard Schultz ; Gino Pokluda ; Fred Hink ; David Asselin ; Conall O'Brien ; Chuck Brown ; Bruce Hedquist ; Vik Banerjee Cc: KLR List ; dust ; dr350 >Gino raises a good question..plans. I think it would be a good idea to arrange a daily >gathering point. How about the Moab diner each day at 8:00 a.m. for breakfast...departure at >9:00 a.m. So, those who don't want to join in for breakfast need to be there about 8:30 to get >a sense of what rides are happening. I'm thinking Thursday would be a good day for the White >Rim but I'm flexible...Why don't we all check in with this mailing list (just hit the reply to >all) and we'll have an idea of when people are arriving. I'm going to arrive on Wednesday, the >21st. by 12:00. Still not sure if I'm camping, bringing the trailer or what... > >Kurt >Please forgive the cross-post this one time, some of you will get this message 4 >times...yikkess.. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Sperduto, Nick" Subject: (dr350) to all you electric people Date: 06 Apr 1999 10:01:00 -0400 I cut this out of a post to the thumper list about a guy looking for a new bike. Finally, I've never owned a kick-start bike. Kick starting sounds good to me since I've been stuck in the Rocky mountains once w/ a dead battery & nobody to help w/ push-start & no down hills! However, while I am 6'0" 180 lbs, I am rather, uh..."chicken-legged" :) How hard is the XR400 going to be to start in the worst conditions, like when hot & stalled by crash....or a cold, high-altitude morning? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" Subject: RE: (dr350) to all you electric people Date: 06 Apr 1999 08:15:20 -0600 >>Kick starting sounds good to me since I've been stuck in the Rocky mountains once w/ a dead battery & nobody to help w/ push-start & no down hills!<< The key word here is "once". Second, I have never (I know, never say never) had a battery fail on any motorcycle I've owned because ... A. I replace them with high quality units. B. Keep them on a charger winter and summer. C. Don't expect them to last more than 3 years, so I replace them every 3 years. Just my humble opinion, time for another cup of coffee. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (dr350) List is still growing... Date: 06 Apr 1999 11:21:34 -0600 This is my weekly post to let people know they are subscribed to the dr350 list...we are growing nicely so keep up the good work spreading the news. We are at 93 subscribers in our sixth week of existence. Here are the archive locations for your records: http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350 http://www.xmission.com/pub/lists/dr350/archive/?923419047 I've also established a web-site where I have room for any dr350 pertinent info. So, let me know. I'll be posting a description of my install on an Ahhhh...ahhhh..cher...bis fuel tank and Kouba Kouba links after this upcoming weekend...Any tips from vets? The website is at: http://members.tripod.com/ajaxut/index.html Regards, Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tim Bernard" Subject: Re: (dr350) to all you electric people Date: 06 Apr 1999 11:39:21 -0600 If you are @ low altitude & your bike is @ high altitude the bike is nearly impossible to start when you get back to it due to the conditon of the rider, however fi the altiudes are reverse it depends more on the bike condition. The Taebo bikes can also have a problem if the Taebo lever falls off. Happy Trails Tim -----Original Message----- >I cut this out of a post to the thumper list about a guy looking for a new >bike. > >--------------------------------------------------------------------------- - >------------------------------------------- >Finally, I've never owned a kick-start bike. Kick starting sounds good >to me since I've been stuck in the Rocky mountains once w/ a dead >battery & nobody to help w/ push-start & no down hills! However, while >I am 6'0" 180 lbs, I am rather, uh..."chicken-legged" :) How hard is >the XR400 going to be to start in the worst conditions, like when hot & >stalled by crash....or a cold, high-altitude morning? > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ron Sutton Subject: Re: (dr350) to all you electric people Date: 06 Apr 1999 11:09:44 -0700 (PDT) Hello DR's, I'm new to the list, been lurking a while. I just got my 96 DR350SE about a week ago. Now that that's out of the way, here's my .02 cents worth. > Finally, I've never owned a kick-start bike. I'm just the opposite, I've never owned a bike with electric start and I must say, I LIKE IT!! Ron PS: Sorry Nick, I haven't got this "Reply to All" thing down yet. === Ron Sutton in Alton, IL, USA 68 Norton P11A 74 Rokon RT340 74 Rokon MX340 "Cobra" 78 Yamaha SR500E 96 Suzuki DR350SE _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Joseph Trunz Subject: Re: (dr350) to all you electric people Date: 07 Apr 1999 04:22:47 -0600 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------683C31220DDC2BB656318807 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit All, I've been riding street bikes for 15 years and have decided to kiss the asphalt good bye and head for the Mountains. Friends have told me that a DR350 would be a good first choice. What is a reasonable price range for a 1995/96 DR350SE in good to excellent condition ? JPT Ron Sutton wrote: > Hello DR's, > > I'm new to the list, been lurking a while. I just got > my 96 DR350SE about a week ago. Now that that's out of > the way, here's my .02 cents worth. > > > Finally, I've never owned a kick-start bike. > > I'm just the opposite, I've never owned a bike with > electric start and I must say, I LIKE IT!! > > Ron > > PS: Sorry Nick, I haven't got this "Reply to All" > thing down yet. > > === > Ron Sutton in Alton, IL, USA > 68 Norton P11A > 74 Rokon RT340 > 74 Rokon MX340 "Cobra" > 78 Yamaha SR500E > 96 Suzuki DR350SE > _________________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com --------------683C31220DDC2BB656318807 Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="vcard.vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for Joe Trunz Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="vcard.vcf" begin: vcard fn: Joe Trunz n: Trunz;Joe org: US WEST email;internet: jtrunz@uswest.com title: Systems Engineering x-mozilla-cpt: ;0 x-mozilla-html: FALSE version: 2.1 end: vcard --------------683C31220DDC2BB656318807-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (dr350) to all you electric people Date: 06 Apr 1999 16:30:54 -0600 >I've been riding street bikes for 15 years and have decided to kiss the >asphalt good bye and head for the Mountains. Friends have told me that a >DR350 would be a good first choice. What is a reasonable price range for >a 1995/96 DR350SE in good to excellent condition ? $2,200 - $3,200 depending on year and mileage...I was about to buy a '95 with 7,500 miles at $2,250 and got lucky and Tim Bernard spotted a '97 with 1,500 miles for $2,700. Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: kevin albrecht Subject: (dr350) exhaust systems Date: 06 Apr 1999 17:52:20 -0400 (EDT) I'm in the process of choosing a yoshimura yrd or a big gun exhaust system. noise is a concern, are they any different re: performance; noise; ect. the price difference is 275 any advice would be most helpful!! thanks kevin ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (dr350) List is still growing... Date: 06 Apr 1999 11:21:34 -0600 This is my weekly post to let people know they are subscribed to the dr350 list...we are growing nicely so keep up the good work spreading the news. We are at 93 subscribers in our sixth week of existence. Here are the archive locations for your records: http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350 http://www.xmission.com/pub/lists/dr350/archive/?923419047 I've also established a web-site where I have room for any dr350 pertinent info. So, let me know. I'll be posting a description of my install on an Ahhhh...ahhhh..cher...bis fuel tank and Kouba Kouba links after this upcoming weekend...Any tips from vets? The website is at: http://members.tripod.com/ajaxut/index.html Regards, Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: aches@deltech.net (Andrus Chesley) Subject: (dr350) Tank panniers Date: 06 Apr 1999 20:48:25 -0500 Hi people, Bought a set of Tank Panniers for the DR350 from Cabela's. Work really good for keeping small items at hands reach. Maps, notebook, eats, waterbottle, etc.. Your knees will be rubbing againt them when sitting down but they are nice in front of the knees when running at speed. The bag is held in place with a foam strap which fit over the gas cap with a hole for the gas cap cut out in it. But I had to inlarge this hole for the Cap on the IMS tank to seal. They also have a loop and hook velcro setup to hold them on the sides of the gas tank. Mine come unglued from what I'm fairly sure is gas vapors going thru the plastic, as it does, and attacking the glue. So what I did was to take a piece of 1" straping material and glue/sew some Hook material on it and run it around front of the gas tank and hooking up with the Loop material on the Panniers... This does the job of holding them forwards on the tank. I don't worry about them flopping about too much as I'm not jumping anything that big with This bike anyway. Ha ha ha. In case anyone is interested..... They are in the ATV section of the New Cabela's Master Catolog # RZ-1103 on page 45 and the part no. is RZ-52-0010 and the colors are Black or Advantage Camo. List for 39.99 plus shipping. -- Cheers and Best Regards Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking '97 BMW R11RA (Amiga) '97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy) "So Many Roads, So Little Time" http://www.deltech.net/members/aches ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" Subject: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people Date: 07 Apr 1999 05:44:53 PDT Hi all- I'm going to buy a used DR350 in near future, I now just have to decide whether I'll get the SE or the dirt version & put a dual sport kit on it. I've got a few questions: 1) I rode a new 99 DR350SE a month ago and was pleasantly surprised to find that it could cruise at 70mph. Enough people have told me that the XR400 is just no good at hiway work, so I've written it off. I will be doing alot of hiway miles to get to the places where I want to ride off-road. Does the dirt only DR have different transmission ratios from the SE? Same sprockets? 2)regarding my search for a used DR.... I think the SE went to cartridge forks in 97; had the dirt only model always had cartridge forks? 3)current model year Suzuki literature says the dirt only model has a different carb than the SE. Is it better? Other than lighter weight, what advantages/better components do you get with the dirt only model? 4)what would be the oldest model year of each I should consider? Thanks in advance- Bryan (98 ZX-6R for sale in Dallas, $6100, perfect cond) (Thanks for turning me on to this list Nick) >From: "Sperduto, Nick" >Reply-To: "Sperduto, Nick" >To: "'dr350 post'" >Subject: (dr350) to all you electric people >Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 10:01:00 -0400 > >I cut this out of a post to the thumper list about a guy looking for a new >bike. > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- >------------------------------------------- >Finally, I've never owned a kick-start bike. Kick starting sounds good >to me since I've been stuck in the Rocky mountains once w/ a dead >battery & nobody to help w/ push-start & no down hills! However, while >I am 6'0" 180 lbs, I am rather, uh..."chicken-legged" :) How hard is >the XR400 going to be to start in the worst conditions, like when hot & >stalled by crash....or a cold, high-altitude morning? > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Lees, John W" Subject: RE: (dr350) Tank panniers Date: 07 Apr 1999 07:25:14 -0700 test > ---------- > From: aches@deltech.net[SMTP:aches@deltech.net] > Reply To: aches@deltech.net > Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 1999 6:48 PM > To: DRList; dust@dorje.com > Subject: (dr350) Tank panniers > > Hi people, > Bought a set of Tank Panniers for the DR350 from Cabela's. Work really > good for keeping small items at hands reach. Maps, notebook, eats, > waterbottle, etc.. Your knees will be rubbing againt them when sitting > down but they are nice in front of the knees when running at speed. The > bag is held in place with a foam strap which fit over the gas cap with a > hole for the gas cap cut out in it. But I had to inlarge this hole for > the Cap on the IMS tank to seal. > They also have a loop and hook velcro setup to hold them on the sides of > the gas tank. Mine come unglued from what I'm fairly sure is gas vapors > going thru the plastic, as it does, and attacking the glue. So what I > did was to take a piece of 1" straping material and glue/sew some Hook > material on it and run it around front of the gas tank and hooking up > with the Loop material on the Panniers... This does the job of holding > them forwards on the tank. I don't worry about them flopping about too > much as I'm not jumping anything that big with This bike anyway. Ha ha > ha. > In case anyone is interested..... They are in the ATV section of the New > Cabela's Master Catolog # RZ-1103 on page 45 and the part no. is > RZ-52-0010 and the colors are Black or Advantage Camo. List for 39.99 > plus shipping. > > -- > Cheers and Best Regards > Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking > '97 BMW R11RA (Amiga) > '97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy) > "So Many Roads, So Little Time" > http://www.deltech.net/members/aches > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people Date: 07 Apr 1999 08:49:01 -0600 >2)regarding my search for a used DR.... >I think the SE went to cartridge forks in 97; had the dirt only model >always had cartridge forks? The SE went to cartridge in '98 >>4)what would be the oldest model year of each I should consider? Bryan, this cuts to the heart of your entire question...'94 SE...the first year it had lecky start...the dirt model doesn't have it..ergo..buy an SE from '94 on up... Kurt '97 SE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people Date: 07 Apr 1999 12:23:13 -0500 Hi Bryan. I Just got a 99 DR350SEX , what the X stands for , i don't know. The bike will do 80MPH, and holds pretty steady as far as handling , but you must know that these bike are not designed for highway use. Like a goldwing or so. As far as difference between DR and DR-se yes lots of it. Front forks are the same , Rear suspension , DR has a longer swing arm ,because of that has a longer susp. travel 11.2 vs.10' on the SE. SE has electric start ,a nice feature ( did you ever get a leg injury riding?) ,try to kick start after that. + cold start and after dumping it ......... Hart to get it going. On the other hand you will get less weight DR 249Lb --- SE 286Lb ( starter + battery +lights, ......) DR has a different carb TM33SS ---- SE has BST33 ( air pollution , i guess) DR has a tall seat height 36.2" if you shorter than 6' you will not be able to put both feet to the groung at a traficlight. The SE is 35" DR has a more knobby tire like a dirt bike , the SE has semi knobby so it has some traction on the road. As far as trans , i was told that it is geared different, but i don't know if it is true. But i can tell that the DR has a larger rear sprocket. The engine should be the same. Oh Yes and the SE has lockable gas cap -----Sugar!!!!! I have to ride on the street to so i picked the SE . I like it. I hope this will help to clear up some of your questions. George ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Scott Aldrich Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people Date: 07 Apr 1999 11:15:50 -0700 George Kovacs wrote: > > Hi Bryan. > > I Just got a 99 DR350SEX , what the X stands for , i don't know. The "X" is a designator for the model year. I have a 1998 DR350SE. Another way to specify that is DR350SEW (The "W" = 1998). So saying "99 DR350SEX" is redundant. -- Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: susan@vision.jpl.nasa.gov (Susan J. Merrill) Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people Date: 07 Apr 1999 11:34:32 PDT > > I Just got a 99 DR350SEX , what the X stands for , i don't know. Oh, I thought it was a clever advertising ploy - a DR350 "SEX" ;) Susan (This post represents my opinion and not that of JPL.) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Scott Aldrich Subject: (dr350) Introduction Date: 07 Apr 1999 11:40:19 -0700 Hi there, I'm new to this list, so I'll go ahead and give a little info about me. I live in Santa Rosa, California, which is located about 60 miles north of the Golden Gate bridge. I mostly ride trails in the Ukiah area where there is a 60,000 acre BLM OHV area and thousands of acres of US Forest riding / camping places. I also ride in the South Bay area at places like Metcalf which has a few trails and some MX tracks (fun). I haven't made it to Hollister yet, but I'd like to get there sometime soon. I also commute to work on my bike, so that's one of the main reasons I chose the '98 Suzuki DR350SE. I bought it new last year in Petaluma (great bike shop) and have over 2000 miles on it. I've done highway riding with my dad and his Harley sportster 883, trail riding, MX and Dual Sport with some friends. The only modifications I've done are: * Replaced the stock tires with Dunlop intermediate terrain knobbies. * Added rim locks. * Put on Bark Busters. * Added the replacement rack so I can carry a small pack on the rear. * Replaced the rear turn signal indicators with some small ones. * Took off the license plate holder assembly and mounted my license plate under the brake light, using the bolts from the brake assembly as part of the license plate holder. * Replaced the front sprocket with a 14 tooth one giving me 14/41 gearing. This actually gave me more top end as the bike couldn't redline with the 15/41 gearing. * Took the plug out of the top of the airbox. * Bought a set of replacement plastic as we tend to get a little wild when trail riding :-) I keep the extra set for when I'm just doing street riding. The bike I owned previous to my DRSE, and still own, is an '85 Honda CR125R. I still ride it, and I love doing MX with it. I've been riding / owning motorcycles for 24 years with about 10 years of dirt bike experience. -- Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Lees, John W" Subject: (dr350) new to list Date: 07 Apr 1999 12:21:59 -0700 Hello I am new to the list. I have a ' 93 DR 350 S I just bought. My question is what is the best value in tires for that bike as I will do more street than trail; The guy I purchased it from had "full on nobies" on it, I know on the street it will not last long. It is quite a mixed bag on the opinion of the guy's selling tires around here (Portland, or.) . I also noticed that most tires (dual sport are 80/20 or 20/80 (street/dirt) . Is there a 70/30 or a 60/40 ? Any input to this post will be appreciated. . . Please help. > ---------- > From: George Kovacs[SMTP:mtctech@acronet.net] > Reply To: George Kovacs > Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 1999 10:23 AM > To: Bryan Nolastname > Cc: dr350@lists.xmission.com > Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people > > Hi Bryan. > > I Just got a 99 DR350SEX , what the X stands for , i don't know. > The bike will do 80MPH, and holds pretty steady as far as handling , but > you must know that these bike are not designed for highway use. Like a > goldwing or so. > As far as difference between DR and DR-se yes lots of it. > Front forks are the same , > Rear suspension , DR has a longer swing arm ,because of that has a longer > susp. travel 11.2 vs.10' on the SE. > SE has electric start ,a nice feature ( did you ever get a leg injury > riding?) ,try to kick start after that. + cold start and after dumping it > ......... Hart to get it going. > On the other hand you will get less weight DR 249Lb --- SE 286Lb ( starter > + battery +lights, ......) > DR has a different carb TM33SS ---- SE has BST33 ( air pollution , i > guess) > DR has a tall seat height 36.2" if you shorter than 6' you will not be > able to put both feet to the groung at a traficlight. The SE is 35" > DR has a more knobby tire like a dirt bike , the SE has semi knobby so it > has some traction on the road. > As far as trans , i was told that it is geared different, but i don't know > if it is true. But i can tell that the DR has a larger rear sprocket. > The engine should be the same. > Oh Yes and the SE has lockable gas cap -----Sugar!!!!! > I have to ride on the street to so i picked the SE . I like it. > I hope this will help to clear up some of your questions. > > George > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" Subject: (dr350) DR350 center stand Date: 07 Apr 1999 13:54:01 -0600 I know some of you will ask "WHY?" but there are some who might want one. I think I have found a supplier for a center stand for the DR350SE. I should be taking delivery of the unit in about 4 weeks (it's coming from Europe) and will let everyone know if it fits and how it works. Gino, editor, Dual Sport News ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: M Lang Subject: Re: (dr350) DR350 center stand Date: 07 Apr 1999 12:55:49 -0800 >I know some of you will ask "WHY?" but there are some who might want one. > >I think I have found a supplier for a center stand for the DR350SE. I >should be taking delivery of the unit in about 4 weeks (it's coming from >Europe) and will let everyone know if it fits and how it works. > >Gino, editor, Dual Sport News I would like to get one too. How much does it cost? = Minh = ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" Subject: RE: (dr350) DR350 center stand Date: 07 Apr 1999 14:01:21 -0600 >>I would like to get one too. How much does it cost? We're not sure yet, with shipping and customs costs. But it will be about $100.00. I have one from the same manufacturer on my KLR650 and it is a pretty slick deal. Unfortunately, this company is notorious for making stuff that does not fit! So we will have to be patient. The reason I posted the message early was for DR350 riders to think about it and give some feedback so that the supplier could order a larger lot and cut the cost... if it all pans out. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (dr350) DR350 center stand Date: 07 Apr 1999 14:36:20 -0600 >I know some of you will ask "WHY?" but there are some who might want one. > >I think I have found a supplier for a center stand for the DR350SE. I >should be taking delivery of the unit in about 4 weeks (it's coming from >Europe) and will let everyone know if it fits and how it works. > >Gino, editor, Dual Sport News Mike Walburn told me that DualStar is going to make one as well. He couldn't tell me when he expected to have it in production. He is sending me one of his stainless steel luggage racks to look at...I'll probably do a write-up and compare it with Obe Wan's.... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (dr350) Tank Panniers... Date: 07 Apr 1999 14:46:10 -0600 Gino or others, have you tried your Aerostich Tank Panniers on the 350? How is the fit? You have the smaller ones right? Thanks, Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (dr350) Fw: BOUNCE dr350@lists.xmission.com: Non-member submission from [Scott Aldrich ] Date: 07 Apr 1999 15:15:30 -0600 >To: John.Lees@PSS.Boeing.com ("Lees, John W") >Date: Wed, 07 Apr 1999 14:06:27 PDT >Cc: dr350@lists.xmission.com >In-Reply-To: ; from "Lees, John W" at Apr 7, 99 12:21 (noon) >From: Scott Aldrich >Reply-To: scott_aldrich@hp.com >X-Mailer: Elm [revision: 212.2] > >> Hello I am new to the list. I have a ' 93 DR 350 S I just bought. My >> question is what is the best value in tires for that bike as I will do >> more street than trail; The guy I purchased it from had "full on >> nobies" on it, I know on the street it will not last long. > That's because there really is no such thing as a Dual Sport tire. >If the tire is good on the road, meaning long lasting and offers good >traction, then it's a piece in the dirt. The stock tires for the '98 >that I bought worked great on the street, but they were scary in the >dirt. > > There was a significant noticeable difference in dirt riding, even >just fire roads, when I put on knobbies. If you haven't ridden dirt >with full knobbies, then you won't understand the difference. > > If you're going to do any dirt riding, then the best tire is >probably the Pirelli MT-21. People report getting over 2000 miles on >them, and that's about as good as you're going to get for a good dirt >tire. > >-- >Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (dr350) Tires... Date: 07 Apr 1999 15:22:53 -0600 For mostly street you couldn't beat Avon Gripsters...they seem to be the tire of choice for GS bikes, KLR's and why not the DR's... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: AYUMOTO@aol.com Subject: (dr350) Cheap knee braces!! Date: 07 Apr 1999 16:57:32 EDT I just got a set of inexpensive knee braces. Bought them at Big 5 Sporting Goods for about $30 each. They are made of neophrene and have sturdy aluminum hinged bracing along each side. If anyone is interested I will supply the manufacturer.. Since they weren't specifically designed for dirt biking they tend to rub a little when you are sitting. Otherwise they are quite good. I use them under standard knee/shin guard protectors. John f. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Scott Aldrich Subject: (dr350) new to list (Re:) Date: 07 Apr 1999 14:28:13 PDT John.Lees@PSS.Boeing.com ("Lees, John W") wrote: > Hello I am new to the list. I have a ' 93 DR 350 S I just bought. My > question is what is the best value in tires for that bike as I will do > more street than trail; The guy I purchased it from had "full on > nobies" on it, I know on the street it will not last long. > > It is quite a mixed bag on the opinion of the guy's selling tires > around here (Portland, or.) . I also noticed that most tires (dual > sport are 80/20 or 20/80 (street/dirt) . Is there a 70/30 or a 60/40 > ? Any input to this post will be appreciated. . . > Please help. That's because there really is no such thing as a Dual Sport tire. If the tire is good on the road, meaning long lasting and offers good traction, then it's a piece in the dirt. The stock tires for the '98 that I bought worked great on the street, but they were scary in the dirt. There was a significant noticeable difference in dirt riding, even just fire roads, when I put on knobbies. If you haven't ridden dirt with full knobbies, then you won't understand the difference. If you're going to do any dirt riding, then the best tire is probably the Pirelli MT-21. People report getting over 2000 miles on them, and that's about as good as you're going to get for a good dirt tire. -- Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: AYUMOTO@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) Introduction Date: 07 Apr 1999 16:51:41 EDT In a message dated 4/7/99 11:41:05 AM Pacific Daylight Time, scotta@sr.hp.com writes: << owner-dr350@lists.xmission.com >> Welcome to the list. I am down here in Sausalito. Maybe we can keep each other informed about rides in the north bay area. John Fraser 1994 DR350 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dan Schewe Subject: (dr350) (dR350) Carb Info Request Date: 07 Apr 1999 17:02:04 -0500 Good Day All! Has anyone messed around with the two air jets located on the intake bell of the carb? My DR is the '94 SE model with the BST33? (vacuum actuated slide). I'm wondering if those jets should be changed only if an aftermarket pipe is added or big-bore is added, I'm running the stock exhaust. I'm running the XJ needle and spring, main jet 137.5, and a pilot jet of (can't remember), but its one size bigger than stock. The bike runs great up to 3/4 throttle, but it tends to miss when cracked wide open. I've tried to richen the main to a 140 and have tried raising and lowering the needle with both the 137.5 and 140 mains, but can't get it perfect - it either runs a little rich or a little lean. Has anyone seen how they brace the DR's rear swingarm - I can have the unit welded at my workplace, but I'm curious how they protect the "spaceage" adhesive used between the rough aluminum casting and the bolted / glued extension arms from the heat, and to minimize warpage if the finished product. Has anyone played with the carb? Dan ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Scott Aldrich Subject: Re: (dr350) Introduction Date: 07 Apr 1999 14:51:55 -0700 AYUMOTO@aol.com wrote: > Welcome to the list. I am down here in Sausalito. Maybe we can keep each > other informed about rides in the north bay area. Sounds good. I don't what's allowed or discouraged for posting to this medium, so I'll go ahead and post this and see if I get flamed for doing it: Does everyone in Northern California know about the Poker run this weekend (April 10/11) in Petaluma? It's being put on by the MCMA (Marin County Motorcycle Association). AMA and D-36 membership are required and you can sign up at the event. The Poker run is on Saturday, and there is a Hare scramble on Sunday. Camping is available, and there will be a BBQ with a live band to benefit the Marin Hospice Satuday night. You can find out more information at: http://www.xmax.com/mcma/race99.htm I'll be trailering the DR with my Suburban so if anyone sees me, stop by and say hi. -- Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (dr350) Introduction..NDR Date: 07 Apr 1999 16:07:09 -0600 > Sounds good. I don't what's allowed or discouraged for posting to >this medium, so I'll go ahead and post this and see if I get flamed for >doing it: I want to run this list the same way we run the KLR list. We encourage all listers to use the regular subscription as opposed to the digest version because you have much more control in the regular subscription....most especially the use of "filters" in your email program. In order for the filters to do any good we need posters to be courteous and acknowledge that some folks are on the list only because of a narrow interest in DR350 specific info. They have no need for "affinity"...the compromise is this. All posts that are not DR specific..and I do mean specific should have NDR in the subject line...it can only be NDR and it stands for No DR content. It must be NDR because it allows a person to set a filter on all posts with NDR in the subject line and route them to a special folder or, alternatively, to trash them so that it is as if they never saw the post at all. This works folks if we just exercise discipline. It makes for a lot of peace and a friendly place to be. Notice I have NDR in my subject line. Given this courtesy there are only two rules which I feel strongly about... 1. No personal insults or diatribes 2. No discussion of issues which become controversial...there are forums for gun control, wilderness values, religion, etc. I'd like this to be a friendly place to be...kinda of like dropping in at Fred Hink's garage shop and kicking the tires, laughing, and talking as the world spins by...mostly about bikes but sometimes who knows...last night we had a long discussion about bears on the KLR list and I thought it was a riot...scared me half to death because I'm going to ride in bear country this year.... Thanks for the bandwidth, Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Michael Terrian Subject: RE: (dr350) Introduction Date: 07 Apr 1999 16:32:27 -0600 Scott: Enjoyed reading your message. You mentioned taking the "plug" out of the airbox. What "plug" are you referring to? My airbox had about a 2" circular opening in the top; no plug. I sawed the top of the air box out to within a half inch of its sides all around to let in a little more air. Is that what you did? While I'm at it, I guess I'll share some info about myself with the group, too. I live in west Texas, El Paso to be specific. It's all desert around here. I ride some in the foothills of the Franklin Mountains (southernmost tip of the Rockies). Very rocky, and lots of cactus (including lechuguilla, also known as "Spanish dagger"). It can be treacherous riding and since I ride alone for the most part, I don't go there often anymore. I also have a permit to ride on a nearby military reservation. Basically, it's about 500 square miles of desert the Army uses for exercises. It's very sandy, dotted with 6 to 8 foot high dunes covered with mesquite. Great fun! I've been riding since 1970, mostly street. Started out on a '67 Norton Atlas. Owned a couple Norton Commandos after that, 750 and 850, while I lived in England. I've ridden a succession of Jap street bikes since then but quit riding on the street altogether about six years ago. In fact, for about ten years, I never owned a car. I rode a bike year-round. I didn't really start riding in the dirt until late 70's when I went to Motorcycle Mechanics' Institute in Phoenix. Bought a basket-case Suzuki TM125 for my wife to learn to ride on and rebuilt it from the crank up. I had so much fun riding in the desert I bought a Yamaha MX125 so we could both ride. Hurt myself (crash landed on concrete-like hardpack doing a wheelie) and gave up two wheels for three until 96 when I bought my DR350SE. (I still have the ATCs but only my wife rides hers now). Originally, I thought I would use the DR more on the street. I rode it back and forth to work off and on for the first year or so. At first, I was very tentative in the desert. First day out I think I wiped out about five times. But the more I rode, the more comfortable I became, and the better I rode. Now, I rarely ride on the street except to get to the desert. I ride nearly every weekend for a couple hours. I've added the following to my DR: IMS shark fin Race-Tech cartridge emulators I replaced: stock tires with Pirelli MT21s (but will probably try the Metzeler Unicross up front next time) 15 tooth countershaft sprocket with a 14 stock bars with some Renthals stock front springs with some .46 kg/mm rate springs I have a new Eibach shock spring in the garage waiting to be installed. I removed: turn signals rear fender extension and sub-frame, and bolted license directly to fender chain guard passenger pegs kickstand safety switch I installed a rack and headlight guard initally but have since removed them. (Anyone interested?) I think I've taken about fifteen pounds off the bike so far. About the only thing I still want to change is maybe the exhaust and definitely the gearing. I also have been meaning to install some rim locks. I've got about 7,000 miles on my bike. I like it a lot. I spend a lot of time lurking in RMD and know that the DR is kinda' like the Rodney Dangerfield of dirt bikes. I even looked at an XR last year. But I'm almost fifty and for the kind of riding I do, the DR suits me well. I enjoy maintaining it, too. Mike Terrian terrian@ibm.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: njkouba@ix.netcom.com Subject: Re: (dr350) (dR350) Carb Info Request Date: 07 Apr 1999 18:06:17 -0500 (CDT) On 04/07/99 17:02:04 you wrote: > >Good Day All! > >Has anyone messed around with the two air jets located on the intake bell >of the carb? My DR is the '94 SE model with the BST33? (vacuum actuated >slide). I'm wondering if those jets should be changed only if an >aftermarket pipe is added or big-bore is added, I'm running the stock >exhaust. I'm running the XJ needle and spring, main jet 137.5, and a pilot >jet of (can't remember), but its one size bigger than stock. The bike runs >great up to 3/4 throttle, but it tends to miss when cracked wide open. > I've tried to richen the main to a 140 and have tried raising and lowering >the needle with both the 137.5 and 140 mains, but can't get it perfect - it >either runs a little rich or a little lean. >Has anyone seen how they brace the DR's rear swingarm - I can have the unit >welded at my workplace, but I'm curious how they protect the "spaceage" >adhesive used between the rough aluminum casting and the bolted / glued >extension arms from the heat, and to minimize warpage if the finished >product. > >Has anyone played with the carb? > >Dan > > > > Dan; We have not had to change those air jets on the intake bell so am not qualfied to comment on there function or the availabilty of different sizes. We just took a 1000 mile trip into Baja on a 98 DR435SE with the thumper racings recomended jetting and it run fine, except right off idle it may be a little lean, but believe that can be adjusted with the fuel screw under the little plug on the bottom in front of the slide. The only mods we made were remove the airbox snorkle and the Thumper Racing 435cc kit with no mods to the exhaust. Their reccomended jetting is 127.5 main, 37.5 pilot, jxneedle, jxspring. We actually run a 132.5 main in Baja because of the marginal gas, but it was plenty big. Its possible your main is too large and is causing it to 4 stroke on top. When Welding the swing arm, build a tube spacer .125" longer than the width of the wheel side spacers and brake mount, install the axel and tighten it up just as if the wheel was there. Then clamp it down to a heavy steel welding table on at least the 4 corners and stand by with a wet towel to cool the glued area when the welder gets close. The inside plates are first fit and spot welded in as many places as possible before the full length welds are done. Do not take the clamps off before the swing arm is completly cool or uniformly the same temp. Hope this helps. Norm Suzuki DR Suspensions DR. DR ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Darren Blin Subject: (dr350) Seat height for short guys like me Date: 07 Apr 1999 19:21:52 -0400 Hey folks This mailing list is a godsend! I have recently obtained my motorcycle license after a long absence of not riding (I used to put around the backwoods in 68 Yamaha mini-enduro when I was a young lad). Now, at the age of thirty, having never owned a vehicle of any type, I am looking at buying a DR350SE. My question is this: How comfortable is this bike with people around my height (5'8")? Will I be on my tip-toes when I put my feet out? How much can you adjust the "pre-load" to accommodate your stature? Maybe some DR350SE bike owners out there who are around my height could inform me. Set me straight please. Darren Blin Bikeless in Toronto Canada 1998 Size 10 Airwalks ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people Date: 07 Apr 1999 14:53:29 -0700 George, The swingarms are the same; the shocks: different, not in o/a length when extended but when compressed - the dirt version gains 1" net greater travel @ the rear axle. Us non-elect., dirt-only folks will let you gladly keep your button; we like our pumper carbs. I have to keep an eye on my DRS buds so they don't take that piece of gold when I'm not looking. John George Kovacs on 04/07/99 10:23:13 AM Please respond to George Kovacs cc: dr350@lists.xmission.com (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell) Hi Bryan. I Just got a 99 DR350SEX , what the X stands for , i don't know. The bike will do 80MPH, and holds pretty steady as far as handling , but you must know that these bike are not designed for highway use. Like a goldwing or so. As far as difference between DR and DR-se yes lots of it. Front forks are the same , Rear suspension , DR has a longer swing arm ,because of that has a longer susp. travel 11.2 vs.10' on the SE. SE has electric start ,a nice feature ( did you ever get a leg injury riding?) ,try to kick start after that. + cold start and after dumping it ......... Hart to get it going. On the other hand you will get less weight DR 249Lb --- SE 286Lb ( starter + battery +lights, ......) DR has a different carb TM33SS ---- SE has BST33 ( air pollution , i guess) DR has a tall seat height 36.2" if you shorter than 6' you will not be able to put both feet to the groung at a traficlight. The SE is 35" DR has a more knobby tire like a dirt bike , the SE has semi knobby so it has some traction on the road. As far as trans , i was told that it is geared different, but i don't know if it is true. But i can tell that the DR has a larger rear sprocket. The engine should be the same. Oh Yes and the SE has lockable gas cap -----Sugar!!!!! I have to ride on the street to so i picked the SE . I like it. I hope this will help to clear up some of your questions. George ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Scott Aldrich Subject: Re: (dr350) Introduction Date: 07 Apr 1999 18:18:25 -0700 Michael Terrian wrote: > > Scott: > > Enjoyed reading your message. > > You mentioned taking the "plug" out of the airbox. What "plug" are you > referring to? My airbox had about a 2" circular opening in the top; no > plug. I sawed the top of the air box out to within a half inch of its sides > all around to let in a little more air. Is that what you did? Under the seat, in the top of the airbox is a rubber "plug" type thing. That's about as good as I can describe it. I pulled it, and it popped out. This left a hole that is about 2 inches in diameter in the top of the airbox. I contemplated cutting the entire top off, that's what I did for my CR, and I think I will eventually. I want to make sure that I can put it back on for rain type riding (which I do a bit of). A couple of other things I forgot to mention that I did to my bike: * I put on Works frame guards. They look very nice, fit perfectly and do the job of protecting the frame. * Put on the rear disk protector. The one I put on is plastic and looks like it will protect the disk from small rocks, but anything large and it's history. I wanted to put on a front disk/fork guard, and I bought both the Acerbis and Maier products that they listed as made for the '98 model, but neither fit. They were actually made for pre '98 models. Has anyone found a set that actually fit? > I've got about 7,000 miles on my bike. I like it a lot. I spend a lot of > time lurking in RMD and know that the DR is kinda' like the Rodney > Dangerfield of dirt bikes. I even looked at an XR last year. Good one. I know I spend a lot of time correcting the misinformation that gets posted on RMD. To tell the truth, I'm kind of getting tired of it. -- Scott ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people Date: 07 Apr 1999 20:25:09 -0500 Hi John I saw a DR and aDRse next to each other , that swing arm sure looked longer to me , George john.gill@conexant.com wrote: > George, > > The swingarms are the same; the shocks: different, not in o/a length when > extended but when compressed - the dirt version gains 1" net greater travel @ > the rear axle. > > Us non-elect., dirt-only folks will let you gladly keep your button; we like our > pumper carbs. I have to keep an eye on my DRS buds so they don't take that piece > of gold when I'm not looking. > > John > > George Kovacs on 04/07/99 10:23:13 AM > > Please respond to George Kovacs > > To: Bryan Nolastname > cc: dr350@lists.xmission.com (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell) > Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people > > Hi Bryan. > > I Just got a 99 DR350SEX , what the X stands for , i don't know. > The bike will do 80MPH, and holds pretty steady as far as handling , but > you must know that these bike are not designed for highway use. Like a > goldwing or so. > As far as difference between DR and DR-se yes lots of it. > Front forks are the same , > Rear suspension , DR has a longer swing arm ,because of that has a longer > susp. travel 11.2 vs.10' on the SE. > SE has electric start ,a nice feature ( did you ever get a leg injury > riding?) ,try to kick start after that. + cold start and after dumping it > ......... Hart to get it going. > On the other hand you will get less weight DR 249Lb --- SE 286Lb ( starter > + battery +lights, ......) > DR has a different carb TM33SS ---- SE has BST33 ( air pollution , i > guess) > DR has a tall seat height 36.2" if you shorter than 6' you will not be > able to put both feet to the groung at a traficlight. The SE is 35" > DR has a more knobby tire like a dirt bike , the SE has semi knobby so it > has some traction on the road. > As far as trans , i was told that it is geared different, but i don't know > if it is true. But i can tell that the DR has a larger rear sprocket. > The engine should be the same. > Oh Yes and the SE has lockable gas cap -----Sugar!!!!! > I have to ride on the street to so i picked the SE . I like it. > I hope this will help to clear up some of your questions. > > George ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs Subject: Re: (dr350) Seat height for short guys like me Date: 07 Apr 1999 20:47:50 -0500 Hi Darren, I am 5'8 195Lb , i can put both feet down , but not all the way to the heel. It feels ok. Do not buy a Honda XR650, otherwise you will need a shoe extention. George Darren Blin wrote: > Hey folks > > This mailing list is a godsend! I have recently obtained my motorcycle > license after a long absence of not riding (I used to put around the > backwoods in 68 Yamaha mini-enduro when I was a young lad). Now, at the > age of thirty, having never owned a vehicle of any type, I am looking at > buying a DR350SE. My question is this: How comfortable is this bike with > people around my height (5'8")? Will I be on my tip-toes when I put my > feet out? How much can you adjust the "pre-load" to accommodate your > stature? Maybe some DR350SE bike owners out there who are around my > height could inform me. > > Set me straight please. > > Darren Blin > Bikeless in Toronto Canada > > 1998 Size 10 Airwalks ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Brian Bucknam Subject: (dr350) Introduction Date: 07 Apr 1999 22:45:49 -0700 I've been lurking on this list in digest mode for a couple weeks now -- probably time I introduced myself. I've owned a 92 DR350S for almost a year now. I bought it to go to Moab last year with Gino and all of his KLR/KLX friends. Now that Gino's got a DR, I feel vindicated (or something :-) I had some fun with my DR in Moab and in Colorado, where I lived until late summer, when I moved to Portland, Oregon. I've had fun riding in the OHV areas in some of Oregon's many state forests. Coming from Colorado, I didn't understand what people meant when they said "That tire packs mud" until I moved to Oregon. It rains here. My DR has the top cut out of the stock airbox. Someone was just asking "What is the 'plug' you guys are talking about?" -- 'the plug' is a flexible rubber 1 inch diameter pipe that goes down from the hole in the top of your airbox about 2 inches... it sounds like yours is already removed. I also have MT-21's front and back. They don't do so well in the mud, but they stick surprisingly well on the street, and do well off-road until it rains. However, I'm not getting much mileage out of the rear tire -- I need some kind of new plan or new tire if I continue riding the highway to get to the forest... I have Acerbis lever/hand guards and the White Brothers "bouncy rear turn signal" mounts, and, like so many of you, the rear sub-fender has been removed. Otherwise the bike is stock. I was really happy with the DR until I rode a friend's tricked out XR400... but his suspension was expensively modified, so I'll have to try some stuff on the DR. I do like what I've seen so far on the list, and I like Kurt's plan to put "NDR:" in the subject of off-topic posts. If you're in the Seattle area, try subscribing to the "WetDirt" mailing list for rides and general dirt-biking discussion (ask me for instructions). It's supposed to be Pacific-Northwest, but it ends up being pretty Seattle-centric. If you're going riding around Portland, let me know :-) Brian - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Brian Bucknam squid@theracetrack.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" Subject: (dr350) Finally found one! Date: 08 Apr 1999 04:58:17 PDT Hallelujah!!! I finally found a used DR! Its a '95 SE w/ 3K miles, 1 owner, in what "sounds" to be very good condition. Owner says he has receipt showing the initial valve adj. was done by dealer. I've wrestled w/ myself over this issue (and nearly kicked my own ass in process!) of whether to buy new or used.....thought I'd have to go new because I just couldn't find any used DRs around. I'm gonna have to drive 6 hrs to get this baby, but at $2400, its exactly HALF of the out-the-door price of a new 99 SE. With the lower initial investment, I figure I will be able to put alot more goodies on it without feeling guilty about blowing more $ (wife factor)...maybe even a Thumper big-bore kit! FWIW...Yesterday I sent a fax to the 7 Suzuki dealers in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area, stating that I had cash & wanted to buy a used DR350 (dirt or dual sport), and would consider buying a new one if the price was right. 3 of the 7 called me back w/ nobody having any used ones (none could even remember having any used DRs recently), and the best out the door price (including 6.25 tax & all BS fees) for a new 99 SE was $4751. One seemingly honest dealer told me his invoice cost on the 99 SE was $4006. Now, I'm off to read the archives about aftermarket goodies to start making my list! I know there's alot of talk over which tank (IMS, CLark, Acerbis) is best....anyone want to make a recommendation here? -which is largest capacity? Finally, anyone know of any particular quirks on the 95 SE's that I should pay special attention to when I go to see the bike tomorrow? Take care- Bryan in Dallas 95 DR-SE (just a day away!) 98 ZX-6R (for sale $6K, perfect cond) _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: RAld277@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) (dR350) Carb Info Request Date: 08 Apr 1999 08:03:16 EDT In a message dated 4/7/99 4:52:32 PM Central Daylight Time, dschewe@forwardtech.com writes: << Has anyone seen how they brace the DR's rear swing arm - I can have the unit welded at my workplace, but I'm curious how they protect the "spaceage" adhesive used between the rough aluminum casting and the bolted / glued extension arms from the heat, and to minimize warpage if the finished product. >> Your best bet is to let Thumper Racing handle that chore. They do a great job and they even polish it all up nice n' perty. Mike A. Nashville ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: RAld277@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) Seat height for short guys like me Date: 08 Apr 1999 08:13:44 EDT I ride a 96 DR350 which sets a little taller than the SE version (I am 5' 10'') and find it to be very comfortable. If for some reason you find the bike to be a little tall you can install Kouba links to lower (or raise) the ride height. Mike A. Nashville ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Dennis Lever" Subject: (dr350) DR350 Mods Date: 08 Apr 1999 09:04:43 -0400 Hi, I bought my 95 DR350SE in Sept of 97 for $3800 Cdn or about $2500 US. It had 8000 miles but most was road, so it was in pretty good shape. As it is the first bike I have owned with electric start, I was very nervous. All my others have been pure off-road kickstart. The battery was weak so it was one of the first changes. I have not had a problem with the "E", but I'm still nervous. I cut the top off the airbox to see if that would help the power. I didn't want to spend all that money on the CycleGear box. The engine was real lean, even before this, so I changed the main jet from 127 to 132.5 The manual said stock was 135 but I know the previous owner never changed it. I also raised the needle as high as it would go. It's a lot better now. I changed the gearing from 15/41 to 14/43. I set up a spreadsheet to determine the ratios so that at about 5000 rpm I would be doing about 50 mph. I wanted to make sure that it was low as about 50% of my riding is on single track in the woods. I also think this is the same as the dirt only DR. I also removed all the extras, mud flap, passenger pegs etc. I put the plate directly on the fender. 280 plus pounds was more than I wanted to put up on a stand, so I made up a lift from a 2-1/4 ton hydraulic floor jack on wheels that I bought new for ~$20. This is a lot more stable than it sounds. I just glued 3 pieces of 3/4"x12"x14" plywood pieces together and attached them with a carriage bolt. It was fairly easy and now I can get the bike off both wheels just holding the handlebar and pumping the jack. It actually gets more stable as you raise it higher. You just have to remember to hold the handlebar when you lower it back down or lookout! The other thing that made me nervous was having to use a key, so I cut a piece of double sided velcro down the middle so that it was only about 1/4" wide. I put it through the key and tied a knot. The loose ends are joined around the crossbar when riding but come off easy to leave or add gas. The only things that I keep a close eye on are the bolts holding the forks in the triple clamps. For some odd reason they seem to loosen up whenever I ride is sandy conditions. Has anybody else seen this? I haven't tried locktite yet. Spring has arrived here so soon.... Dennis Guelph Ontario Canada ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (dr350) Finally found one! Date: 08 Apr 1999 07:44:46 -0600 -----Original Message----- >Hallelujah!!! I finally found a used DR! Good for you! >Now, I'm off to read the archives about aftermarket goodies to start >making my list! I know there's alot of talk over which tank (IMS, >CLark, Acerbis) is best....anyone want to make a recommendation here? > -which is largest capacity? I think both the Acerbis and the Clarke are 4.25 gallons and the IMS is 4.0 I have all three tanks scanned. If anyone wants to see them let me know. Fred Hink ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Arrowhead Motorsports http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/ 435-259-7356 Fax 435-259-9148 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Michael Terrian Subject: (dr350) RE: kick stand switch Date: 08 Apr 1999 08:07:39 -0600 Bryant: Bryant Wang wrote: > You removed your kick stand switch, huh? I was thinking of doing > that my self. Did you just remove the switch and wires up to the > harness altogether or did you have to make a jumper connection or > something? I guess I'm starting to lose it; I can't remember that far back (6 months) anymore. I know I removed the switch and wires up to the harness connector. I even sawed off the bracket on the frame that held the switch and the tab on the kickstand that actuated it. I can't remember exactly what I did where the wires ended but I do remember that the solution was fairly obvious. I'm pretty sure all I had to do was cut the wires right behind the connector (near the horn) and wrap and tape them together. Mike Terrian terrian@ibm.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Dennis Lever" Subject: (dr350) kick stand switch Date: 08 Apr 1999 10:26:50 -0400 I'm pretty sure all I had to do was cut the wires right behind the connector (near the horn) and wrap and tape them together. I did this too, but make sure you solder the wires. It is an interlock and if any corrosion or dirt gets in, the bike won't start. Dennis ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Scott Aldrich Subject: Re: (dr350) RE: kick stand switch Date: 08 Apr 1999 07:33:45 -0700 Michael Terrian wrote: > I guess I'm starting to lose it; I can't remember that far back (6 months) > anymore. I know I removed the switch and wires up to the harness connector. > I even sawed off the bracket on the frame that held the switch and the tab > on the kickstand that actuated it. I can't remember exactly what I did > where the wires ended but I do remember that the solution was fairly > obvious. I'm pretty sure all I had to do was cut the wires right behind the > connector (near the horn) and wrap and tape them together. What about the clutch switch? Anybody else remove that one? I couldn't stand having to hold the clutch in whenever I went to start it, so I soldered that one together. Now I can use the starter if I want the bike to crawl up a hill :-) (No, I haven't done that...). -- Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (dr350) Finally found one! Date: 08 Apr 1999 08:53:58 -0600 >out-the-door price of a new 99 SE. With the lower initial investment, >I figure I will be able to put alot more goodies on it without feeling >guilty about blowing more $ (wife factor)...maybe even a Thumper >big-bore kit! I was in the same dilemma especially because of the cartridge forks on the '98-'99...I feel a lot better after Bob Bell told me he'll put a cartridge fork in my '97 for under $500.. >99 SE was $4751. One seemingly honest dealer told me his invoice cost >on the 99 SE was $4006. That is true...I paid $10 to find out... > >Now, I'm off to read the archives about aftermarket goodies to start >making my list! Not much there yet but give us a year and it'll be full of pearls and gems...we need people to not be bashful and share some of there experiences so that the list can build up its own base of knowledge...and then go beyond... I know there's alot of talk over which tank (IMS, >CLark, Acerbis) is best....anyone want to make a recommendation here? > -which is largest capacity? I bought the Acerbis from Fred Hink and so did Gino...we were both following the advice of Eldon Carl who rights lovingly abut the DR350S in Dual Sport News... >Finally, anyone know of any particular quirks on the 95 SE's that I >should pay special attention to when I go to see the bike tomorrow? none... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Scott Aldrich Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people Date: 08 Apr 1999 07:53:11 -0700 john.gill@conexant.com wrote: > > George, > > The swingarms are the same; the shocks: different, not in o/a length when > extended but when compressed - the dirt version gains 1" net greater travel @ > the rear axle. > > Us non-elect., dirt-only folks will let you gladly keep your button; we like our > pumper carbs. I have to keep an eye on my DRS buds so they don't take that piece > of gold when I'm not looking. > > John Hiya John! Imagine meeting you here :-) So why are you comparing the electric start to carbs? Are you saying that the electric start models can't have the carb changed to a pumper type? BTW, excuse my ignorance but what is a pumper carb? I've heard of slide carbs and Constant Velocity (which the DRSE has), but not a pumper carb. sTeVe recommnded going with the WB carb kit and Cycle Gear air box before he turned into a DR hater :-) Ya know, they say ex-smokers are a smokers worst nightmare, I wonder if that applies to ex-DR owners also... -- Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (dr350) Gear Calc... Date: 08 Apr 1999 08:57:21 -0600 Anyone wanting to really calculate the effect of a gear change would be wise to download Pat Hensley's GearCalc program from www.ironjungle.com Pat drives a KLR and is a great enthusiast... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (dr350) NDR...examples... Date: 08 Apr 1999 09:01:02 -0600 A follow-up on my request for NDR in the subject line and how filters work...my morning mail contained 143 messages. Only 4 ended up in my inbox. The rest were sorted into: GS - 19 messages....Majordomo - 34 messages...NKLR....20 messages...KLR...39 messages. and the rest in DR... The KLR list received 59 messages from last night until this morning...for those using NKLR as a filter...they only saw 39. Please use NDR.... Kurt Keep spreading the word we're about to go over 100 subscribers...thanks ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "chasmatic" Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people Date: 08 Apr 1999 10:31:24 -0500 Damn, my '94 DRSE? will no longer do the trick. I gotta have one of them there SEX ones! -----Original Message----- > >> > I Just got a 99 DR350SEX , what the X stands for , i don't know. > >Oh, I thought it was a clever advertising ploy - a DR350 "SEX" ;) > >Susan > > (This post represents my opinion and not that of JPL.) > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (dr350) Xmlistadmin... Date: 08 Apr 1999 11:00:38 -0600 For those who may be receiving messages from xmlistadmin@xmission.com I would like to alert you to how to unsubscribe. You may be on this list because of erroneous subscription info for DR350 or KLR650. To unsubscribe from xmlistadmin@xmission.com send a message from the email account you are subscribed with to: majordomo@lists.xmission.com Leave the subject blank. In the body type unsubscribe xmlistadmin Sorry for the inconvenience... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: njkouba@ix.netcom.com Subject: Fwd: Re: (dr350) Kouba links... Date: 08 Apr 1999 12:05:37 -0500 (CDT) On 03/19/99 08:26:58 you wrote: > >Norm, I'm hoping you read this...we had a lister on an affilitated list, i.e., DUST >asking about your Kouba Links. Can you give a summary of why you developed them and >what they can and can't accomplish? > Kurt In the begining we tried many different shim stacks, shock oils, and spring rates, nothing gave us the results we were looking for. Those results being, plush on the small bumps, firm up on the mogals, and most of all minimize that dreaded sidways kick caused by violent bottoming of the rear when traveling at excessive speeds of over 25mph on dirt. In stock form, and the sag being set at 3.9", the rocker angle is almost perpendicular to the pivot point, thus riding in the most progressive part of the arc and causing harshness on small bumps and bottoming on larger ones, as when the rocker continues over center, progression gets less and less the farther the suspension compresses. Then bang, it reaches the stop on the shock, and over the bars we go as the stop has no sign of rebound control. To address these traits, we had to either change the configuration of the rocker, the links, or the pivot points. The simplest and least costly being changing the working length of the links. (Sometimes referred to as "Dog Bones") After building and trying many different lengths, we settled on one size for most riders, but we build 3 different lengths for specific conditions and or riding styles. Most riders over 175lbs will require a heavier spring unless improved twotrac is in the majority of the riding. The longer links give a much plusher ride everywhere, increases usable travel, all but eliminates the rear kick, and only lowers the seat height when the swingarm is fully extended making getting on and off easier, not to mention it will no longer highside over the sidestand when you dismount. The laden seat height will remain the same when the reccomened sag of 2.5" is used. If the links are used for lowering purposes only, the sag can be set at 3.9" if the front is lowered by 1.25" to stay close to the stock geometry. The links will fit 90 thru 99 Suzuki DR350 and DR350SE model bikes ONLY. The down side of the links is in the mogals, fall of plain and this 300lb motorcycle is going to hurt you. The upside is without the links most riders cannot get on plain. The facts are, these links are the best single improvement we have made to the DR to date but are not perfect for all conditions and riders. Another downside is under full compression, ground clearance is 1.5" less. (Easier to case it.) Now that I have told everyone how they work here comes the pitch. We give a 30 day money back return policy and to date only one customer returned the links. He said they were not compatable for his 260lb superstructure. The links are hand machined out of 6061 T6 aluminium and have not experienced a failure to date. For those of you who want to motorcross your DR we cannot help, but for those who ride Enduros or Baja type riding these links are a must, your backside will thank you everynight. Many thanks to Kurt Simpson, who started the dr350 list and has put countless hrs into its inception. Thanks Norm Suzuki DR Suspensions HTTP://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299 Phone 1-208-939-3753 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Cowger Subject: (dr350) Introduction Date: 08 Apr 1999 10:11:24 -0700 Hello all, I was certainly happy to find this list yesterday (thanks John). I've owned two DRs now, and continue to believe that they are great trail bikes. My first was a '97 DR350SE that I bought new. The suspension mods I did were: - Racetech cartridge fork emulators - .46 kg/mm front springs - Kouba links on the rear - 7.6 kg/mm rear spring (I'm about 210 lbs) These four things really brought the suspension a long way. They would definitely be the first things I'd do to a DR, especially w/ the damping rod forks. I ended up only riding this bike in the dirt, so I sold it and bought a '96 DR441. The previous owner had made these mods: - WB did the 441 modification - His dealer installed the Suzuki Hi-Po cam - FMF Megamax exhaust - Racetech re-valved both the forks and the shock, installing Gold Valves front and rear - Protapers w/ billet triple clamp - Lightened the rear end by removing a lot of the metal structure and installing an RM fender I've made these mods: - Installed a mtn bike computer (based on the instructions at http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/1501/harvanek.htm. Instead of the KDX method shown, I drilled a small hole in the rotor and installed rare-earth magnets in that -- ended up being a pretty clean installation.) - Stronger clutch springs - Went from the stock 127.5 main jet to 137.5 so far -- it's still not too rich Now I'd like to: - Install a Scotts Steering Stablizer - Get the jetting dialed in (love that pumper -- great *snap*!!) - Revalve the front and rear suspension (I weigh ~40 lbs more than the previous owner.) - Install a Jagg oil cooler. Questions that I have: - Has anyone installed a Scotts SS with Protapers? - Has anyone installed a Jagg? On the latter, I've looked at the instructions, and its definitely a kludge. Any help here would be greatly appreciated! I'm in the Sacramento, CA area, and generally ride Georgetown, Foresthill, Mammoth Bar, and Hollister. And I'm definitely open to road trips! Regards, Bryan Cowger bryan_cowger@hp.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jack Alexander" Subject: Re: Re: (dr350) Kouba links... Date: 08 Apr 1999 11:04:39 -0700 Thanks Norm for explaining what happens with the links. I have a set of Kouba links. I like them. I put them on right before a two week trip to Baja and thought they made a big difference. Especially late in the trip when my shock was toast. I am still playing with ride height and sag. In the deep sand in Baja - I left the front up and left the sag at 4". It helped with stability, especially since I suck in riding deep sand. Now I have dropped the front and have the sag set at 2.5 - 3 inches (I have to look - it is written on my side panel - I am still experimenting). I am 5'6" and initially bought the links so I could touch on one side or the other. With the reduced seat height I can touch on both sides and paddle when I have to. Dropping the ride height helped me save some tip overs in the rocks. I drug the cases more in deep ruts and in big rocks. But dragging the cases is not a big deal when going slow when you can stick out a foot to save it. Since Norm decided to back his links with a guarantee it seems like a no brainer. They are cheap and improved my DR. I installed my in 20 minutes or less and fooled with other stuff while I was at it. Disclaimer - I only know Norm as a happy customer - his level of personal service is great. I have a hand-written set of setup instructions. Hopefully he has his instructions on the computer now so he can spend that time riding. He has also followed up with phone and email help. jack ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (dr350) Park City Motorcycle Week... Date: 08 Apr 1999 15:43:47 -0600 As some of you know the Steamboat Springs Motorcycle week is history...the event will now take place in my home state in beautiful Park City. Check out this website for info. http://www.parkcitymotorcycle.org/PCMC%20Week.html Let me know if anyone is interested in developing a Dual Sport Rally in conjunction with the event. Kurt Simpson Salt Lake City ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" Subject: (dr350) RE: (klr650) Park City Motorcycle Week... Date: 08 Apr 1999 15:51:01 -0600 I'm going. My neighbor and I were just discussing what we were going to do for a road trip this year and this is it. Maybe I'll have my SV650 by then, I hope, I hope, I hope... Gino, anyone have any good lottery numbers or lines on a race horse, Pokluda ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (dr350) RE: (klr650) Park City Motorcycle Week... Date: 08 Apr 1999 16:10:43 -0600 >for a road trip this year and this is it. Maybe I'll have my SV650 by then, >I hope, I hope, I hope... Ohhh Frankie must be quite a lady...quite a lady...I think you better save your money and buy a Hawk instead...it is prettier anyway.. Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tim Bernard" Subject: Re: (dr350) Introduction..NDR Date: 08 Apr 1999 16:15:53 -0600 One thing I would like to add is that all words typed should be acceptable to all ages & not turn this into an "R" rated list like the KLR list is. Happy trails Tim -----Original Message----- Cc: dr350@lists.xmission.com > >> Sounds good. I don't what's allowed or discouraged for posting to >>this medium, so I'll go ahead and post this and see if I get flamed for >>doing it: > >I want to run this list the same way we run the KLR list. > >We encourage all listers to use the regular subscription as opposed to the digest version >because you have much more control in the regular subscription....most especially the use of >"filters" in your email program. In order for the filters to do any good we need posters to be >courteous and acknowledge that some folks are on the list only because of a narrow interest in >DR350 specific info. They have no need for "affinity"...the compromise is this. All posts that >are not DR specific..and I do mean specific should have NDR in the subject line...it can only >be NDR and it stands for No DR content. It must be NDR because it allows a person to set a >filter on all posts with NDR in the subject line and route them to a special folder or, >alternatively, to trash them so that it is as if they never saw the post at all. > >This works folks if we just exercise discipline. It makes for a lot of peace and a friendly >place to be. Notice I have NDR in my subject line. Given this courtesy there are only two rules >which I feel strongly about... > >1. No personal insults or diatribes > >2. No discussion of issues which become controversial...there are forums for gun control, >wilderness values, religion, etc. > >I'd like this to be a friendly place to be...kinda of like dropping in at Fred Hink's garage >shop and kicking the tires, laughing, and talking as the world spins by...mostly about bikes >but sometimes who knows...last night we had a long discussion about bears on the KLR list and I >thought it was a riot...scared me half to death because I'm going to ride in bear country this >year.... > >Thanks for the bandwidth, > >Kurt > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Subject: Re: (dr350) (dR350) Carb Info Request Date: 08 Apr 1999 17:25:51 -0700 Dan, I cannot help w/your carb situation (mine is a pumper) but certainly *do not* have your swing arm braced. I did mine twice; once inside, then the second time on the outside, both with some improvement but with resultant warpage - beware: it is not worth the trouble/risk. I suppose you want to eliminate the DR "bucking bronco" effect. If so then get the Kouba links - they eliminated the side hopping for me. John Dan Schewe on 04/07/99 03:02:04 PM Please respond to Dan Schewe cc: (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell) Good Day All! Has anyone messed around with the two air jets located on the intake bell of the carb? My DR is the '94 SE model with the BST33? (vacuum actuated slide). I'm wondering if those jets should be changed only if an aftermarket pipe is added or big-bore is added, I'm running the stock exhaust. I'm running the XJ needle and spring, main jet 137.5, and a pilot jet of (can't remember), but its one size bigger than stock. The bike runs great up to 3/4 throttle, but it tends to miss when cracked wide open. I've tried to richen the main to a 140 and have tried raising and lowering the needle with both the 137.5 and 140 mains, but can't get it perfect - it either runs a little rich or a little lean. Has anyone seen how they brace the DR's rear swingarm - I can have the unit welded at my workplace, but I'm curious how they protect the "spaceage" adhesive used between the rough aluminum casting and the bolted / glued extension arms from the heat, and to minimize warpage if the finished product. Has anyone played with the carb? Dan ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people Date: 08 Apr 1999 17:58:32 -0700 Hey ya Scotty! Glad to see you made the list. You can buy a pumper carb for the DRS(e) but they are $300+, and you will need the dirt manifold and air box boot, maybe even the throttle housing. I think Stroker has a kit for the DRS; White Bros. does. There was a DR dude (George Kovacs ) who earlier listed the diff. bet. the dirt & street. *My* comment was the pumper that came with the dirt vers. performs better than the DS CV unit, in that it does not rely on engine vacuum to pull the slide up (the cable does it all, hence a quicker response) and has a small pipe and pump which squirts gas into the airstream when the throttle is cracked (prevents the four-stroke hickup, common to XRs and the like). Yep; sTeVe pretty much left the fold, but each to his own. At least he did not go full red (XR400). BTW, I finally rode one, and it does feel better than a stock DR in the suspension department, is slimmer, and does turn better but all in all not much better than the stock DR. I actually think the DR has a better motor down low, wheras the XR will pull higher, longer. Now my DR(MX)441 is a different story altogether. The XR owner just shook his head in disbelief after riding it, saying "that's a DR?" The rush sensation when whacking the throttle caught him off guard. John Scott Aldrich on 04/08/99 07:53:11 AM cc: dr350@lists.xmission.com john.gill@conexant.com wrote: > > George, > > The swingarms are the same; the shocks: different, not in o/a length when > extended but when compressed - the dirt version gains 1" net greater travel @ > the rear axle. > > Us non-elect., dirt-only folks will let you gladly keep your button; we like our > pumper carbs. I have to keep an eye on my DRS buds so they don't take that piece > of gold when I'm not looking. > > John Hiya John! Imagine meeting you here :-) So why are you comparing the electric start to carbs? Are you saying that the electric start models can't have the carb changed to a pumper type? BTW, excuse my ignorance but what is a pumper carb? I've heard of slide carbs and Constant Velocity (which the DRSE has), but not a pumper carb. sTeVe recommnded going with the WB carb kit and Cycle Gear air box before he turned into a DR hater :-) Ya know, they say ex-smokers are a smokers worst nightmare, I wonder if that applies to ex-DR owners also... -- Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Doug Bragg Subject: RE: (dr350) DR350 center stand Date: 07 Apr 1999 20:39:54 -0700 I have one of Dual Star's stainless racks and love it. Once Mike Walburn and I strapped a chainsaw to it on a trail clearing ride for his event, the Tarmac To Timberline, a killer dualsport event the weekend after Septem