From: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com (dr350-digest) To: dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: dr350-digest V1 #37 Reply-To: dr350-digest Sender: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk dr350-digest Sunday, May 2 1999 Volume 01 : Number 037 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 20:31:13 -0500 From: charles w vokac Subject: [none] I just got back from a ride with my new Pirelli MT 21 rear wheel. What a difference a new tire makes! I don't know why I didn't get one sooner. My JX needle and spring are in place and seem to be working well. I am impressed by the improvement from a good rear hub, bearing, and chain cleaning I thought I was taking good care of the wheel but I guess I wasn't. ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 01:43:46 +0100 From: "ThunderSUB" Subject: (dr350) Wires / Clutch switch Hi guys, I need your help ! First, my DR is a '93 DR350S model. I read on someone's message about engines dying suddenly due to the clutch switch being malfunctioning or something like that... The same thing happened to me when I was riding pretty hard on the beach (dunes). I crashed violently over the bars when that happened... and damaged the clocks ! First, what's the clutch switch ? Is that the "Engine Stop Switch" ? Because my bike doesn't have any wires coming from the clutch... I want to disable the "clutch switch" and also the side stand switch. I also want to remove the clocks. My problem is, the ignition key is attached to the clocks so I will have to "highwire" the bike (never mind my English)... I removed the clocks (and also the ignition switch), the front panel & the front light. There are a lot of wires behind the the front light. There are a group of wires from the clocks (disconnected the plug), another group of wires from the ignition switch (disconnected the plug), a group of wires from the left handlebar switches and another one from the right handlebar switch. I realised that all the wires that came from the handlebar switches are all together in a plug except 2 wires (one black & one yellow). The black wire from the the left handlebar switch (clutch side) was connected to the black wire from the right handlebar switch (front brake), the same with the yellow wire. I managed to "highwire" by connecting the yellow wire to the black wire (one was male & the other female) of the right handlebar switch. Did nothing to the yellow and black wire of the left handlebar switch. The engine starts, no problem at all and the "Engine Stop Switch" was disabled. My question is ? Has anyone remove the clocks from your bike and how did you manage to start the bike without the ignition switch ? Is this the right way to highwire the bike ? How do I disable the side stand switch ? What should I do to the yellow and black wires that come from the left handlebar switch ? My intention is to remove the clocks, the ignition switch and the side stand switch. Please help me and never mind my English. Thanks in advance ! ThunderSUB (Claudio) Lisbon, Portugal http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html http://www.bigfoot.com/~thundersub http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789 thundersub@bigfoot.com ICQ# [3072424] * 1982 Honda Dax 70 * 1993 Suzuki DR350S * 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 08:05:29 -0700 From: Doug Bragg Subject: (dr350) RE: A note on the rear hub... On SE models, periodically replace the little rubber "cushion drive" pieces that fit between the wheel hub and sprocket hub, they wear out over time. I also replace all wheel bearings every two years or so (I ride about 2500 miles per year.) Bearings are available from a bearing supply house, and are usually better and cheaper than OEM parts. Doug http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969/dualsport/dualsport.html - -----Original Message----- From: charles w vokac [SMTP:cvokac@juno.com] Sent: Saturday, May 01, 1999 6:31 PM To: dr350@lists.xmission.com Subject: I just got back from a ride with my new Pirelli MT 21 rear wheel. What a difference a new tire makes! I don't know why I didn't get one sooner. My JX needle and spring are in place and seem to be working well. I am impressed by the improvement from a good rear hub, bearing, and chain cleaning I thought I was taking good care of the wheel but I guess I wasn't. ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 10:40:11 PDT From: "Bryan Nolastname" Subject: (dr350) caution when traveling in mexico Hey guys, I just posted this to the DUST list...thought I'd share it here to: ==================================================================== Hi Marcus- I work for US Customs & have been to many interior cities in Mexico doing NAFTA audits; I keep up on travel conditions as a matter of course. Bandits have always existed in Mexico, but they are a much more common danger these days (ever since the peso devaluation in 1995). I would suggest that when you travel the smaller, less frequently-traveled paved hiways, you are at greatest risk. Geographically, there is more hiway robbery in the west than in the east. Within 60 miles or so of Mexico City is also risky. On the 4 lane tollways and on the most remote, least traveled dirt roads, you are safest from the threat of bandits. Their most common MO is to drag a log/tree across a road, hiding to wait for the car travelers to bail out & move the obstacle. They dont usually have guns, and USUALLY dont physically harm their vicitms, but I do know that some American tourists have been beaten/abused, and a few have been killed. My brother was robbed a few years ago as he drove up the coast from Acapulco (tree in the road trick). They took his wallet, & went through the car & his wife's purse. Statistically, you're still probably safer traveling in Mexico than walking a big US city at night.... just wanted to post a little reminder about the risk. If they take your bike & your cash....you are going to have a long, uncomfortable detour. And even though I usually pack a gun on my longer road trips, DONT EVER think about taking one south of the border....instant jail for a long time. Every year there are dozens of Americans that drive across to the border towns that forget about that rusty old pistol in the glove box, .22 rifle in the tool box in the bed of the truck, whatever. If they get the "red light" (the red light comes on 10% of the time) for an intensive inspection by the Aduana (Mexican Customs), the firearm is found, the car siezed, & the driver arrested. And no, you cant bribe your way out of it.....the "feds" at the border crossings cannot be bribed (at least not by some gun-toting gringo). I think they are usually in a lousy jail for a minumum of 6 months or so before the US embassy people finally get them out. If anyone ever needs any US or Mexican Customs info, I can probably answer your questions. Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE >Subject: Guaymas to Santa Rosalia Ferry Service >Hi Everyone, > >I'm planning on ridding my KLR into Mexico in June. I see on my map that >there is a ferry from Guaymas to Santa Rosalia, and was curious if anyone >can confirm this for me. Also, if folks know of the prices, hours, or any >other details, please pass them along to me. Furthermore, I'm open to any >suggestions of places to eat and places to stay (camping or hotel). > >Thanks in advance, > > ~marcus young~ >Denver, CO _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 13:45:25 -0600 From: "Tom Warr" Subject: Re: (dr350) caution when traveling in mexico Re: Guns in Mexico - that is absolutely true about going to jail if caught with one. TW ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 13:46:27 -0600 From: "Tom Warr" Subject: Re: (dr350) RE: >A note on the rear hub... > >On -S and -SE models, periodically replace the little rubber "cushion drive" . . . I also replace all wheel bearings every two years or so (I ride about 2500 miles per year.) Bearings are available from a bearing supply house, and are usually better and cheaper than OEM parts. >Doug I agree with Doug - keep an eye on those rear axel bearings. I have had them wear out, as have others I know. They are good for about 10k dirt miles, at best - check them with each tire change. As noted, bearings from the supply house are cheaper and more readily available. Also, replace with ones that are sealed on both sides (rather than just one side), so they will stay cleaner. TW ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 13:50:48 -0600 From: "Tom Warr" Subject: Re: (dr350) resurrection of the magic air box I have a Magic Air Box I. It has such wonderful air flow, it makes "opening the stock air box" seem trivial by comparison. Just make sure you keep the filter clean, and watch out for water getting it. You let in lots of stuff besides air into that huge opening. After washing my bike yesterday, it wouldn't run because of water in the float bowl. Ran like it was running out of gas, and turning on reserve made it worse (water, heavier than gas, was at the bottom of my tank). Draining the float bowl, then a can of Heat fixed it. Not the first time that has happened to me. Glad to see continued interest in DR's aftermarket performance upgrades. Went riding again today, and, again was every bit as fast as my friend n his XR650L. TW ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 18:35:53 EDT From: Dualsport4@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) Tires for DR350SE In a message dated 4/30/99 7:14:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time, john.gill@conexant.com writes: << Mike, How does the Dunlop K139 do off road in all of the following categories: mud, sand, rocks & hardpack? Is it for hard surface, intermediate, soft conditions? I know that's asking too much of one tire, being DOT apprv'd, but please let us know if you have pers. experience. John >> John, I have been using the Dunlop K139 for about 2-3 years now. It has worked very well for me on a variety of terrain. From Kentucky mud to Utah sandstone, from Michigan's U.P. sand(fine) to So Cal/Arizona/Nevada sand(fine all the way to kitty litter), Washington loam to West Virginia River rock. It also performs amazingly well on pavement (dry). It has been pushed to 100 mph, then leaned on hard in corner after corner! I have ripped my share of side knobs off but this is to be expected after the abuse I subject it to. BTW..........D.O.T. approval has very little to do with how serious or good the tire is. Hope that helps a little, Mike P.S. I have to give my friend Mark Hyde (American Suzuki) credit for getting me to try the tire in the first place. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 21:53:45 -0500 From: charles w vokac Subject: (dr350) Sand riding My friend showed me how to ride in deep sand and mud. I know it's nothing new for the experienced group here but I will repeat it anyway. Get your weight off the front tire by sliding your ass way back. You can either stand while doing this or if you're lazy like me, sit way back on the rear fender. At the same time, pull back on the handle bars repeatedly to pull the front tire up out of the muck or sand. I was hauling through some deep puddles and doing this through them kept the front tire from getting bogged down. The front tire seemed to hydroplane over the surface of the puddle. When I tried it the normal way I almost went forward over the handlebars. Chuck Vokac Panama City FL '92 DR350S ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ End of dr350-digest V1 #37 **************************