From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #345 Date: 30 Apr 1999 23:08:25 -0700 -----Original Message----- ><< A2 (cracked header, but not desperate) >> > >You HAVE heard of J-B weld, right ? ????? Actually, taking it to a welder isn't a bad idea either. Its stainless, so it can be done, and shouldn't cost much at all. Jeff > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tobin Lampson Subject: Re: (klr650) Tires Date: 30 Apr 1999 23:59:49 -0700 Scott, Not being aware of what you're currently riding on, I couldn't relay an opinion on 'more' of a dirt tire. It still sounds like you wish a nice ride on pavement, right? I'll never buy another Cheng Shit. My fellow riders concur. I do 80 on/ 20 off. The off road miles are as tough as anything one would 'do'. If I did more off road I'd use Kendas. Noisy, ok, corner slightly less stable than 1 step closer to street, but, they eat mud well. More of a Knobby is for dirt bikes. I currently ride the Bridgestone Trail Wing series. With front and rear matched on street they're excellent. On dirt they've eaten anything I've ever desired to tackle, and once, something more. I haven't had them in real mud yet. My hope is that they will compare to the Kenda there. The IRC with Metzler Sahara like pattern, not far from Gripsters(tractor-tread), may appear like a good dualsport tire(good on-road!),.......wrong. Noisy, low miles, forget Mud. For this much street intent I've used Metzler 33's or 88's. A total street tire, in fact, excellent! When Kawtrailing or on two-track dirt no one believed how well they did. Good Luck Tobin Lampson ps I advocate NO front brake NONE, in dirt. Maybe, in a too steep a downhill, and y'all? Scott Wass wrote: > > I am looking for some more dirt oriented tires and I was wondering what > are the opinions on the Kenda 270 and the Cheng shin 858 they are both > pretty cheap so I wouldn't feel to bad if they burn off fairly quick my > main concern is are they to much of a handful to ride on the street? > Thanks > Scott Wass ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Yusseri Yusoff Subject: Re: (klr650) british bike mag disses KLR Date: 01 May 1999 13:44:25 +0100 (BST) On Fri, 30 Apr 1999, Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote: > What's the name of the mag, and the address of the publisher? I > would like to flame them verbally, and maybe physically, for > spreading lies about my beloved KLR. There are listers here with > many more miles than my bike, and never reported these problems. > Sounds like they need to get their facts straight. > > Jeff--A3 > > The comic is called Bike, surprisingly enough. It's part of publishing company that also produces other comics like Performance Bikes, RiDE, What Bike, Classic Bike, and that ultimate of all motorcycle comics (IMNHO), MotorCyle News, MCN - more properly known amongst some peoples as More Crap than News. I have that particular issue and read the article. I wasn't too particularly surprised by it though. The KLR is one of those slow selling bikes here anyway, and comics like Bike tend to concentrate on the normal street bikes. They have a website at http://www.motorcycleworld.co.uk if you'd like to visit. Cheers, Yus A1 -- Yusseri Yusoff / y.yusoff@ee.surrey.ac.uk http://www.ee.surrey.ac.uk/showstaff?Yusoff Centre for Vision, Speech and Signal Processing University of Surrey Guildford GU2 5XH ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: K650dsn@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Nolan 100 Date: 01 May 1999 10:48:22 EDT In a message dated 4/30/99 10:44:36 PM Mountain Daylight Time, dswass@northernnet.com writes: << looked at the Nolan 100 helmet today seems like it's pretty decent but I couldn't quite get the knack of opening the chin bar up very easy is it a pain in the rump or after a while do you get it figured out also how quite is the helmet? >> After a while, you get the hang of it. It is not as quiet as some, but I wear earplugs all the time anyway. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) Fw: im looking for help !!! Date: 01 May 1999 09:23:11 -0600 Respond to Shahar directly so he is sure to get the help he is needing... -----Original Message----- hi im looking for help !!! I own a KLR-650 1995 and I have a problem with over heating my fan do not work !!! is there any fuse box that I can check for a burn fuse , and were is it ?? were is the thermostat for the fan unit ?? how can I check if it works properly ??? any suggestion to solve my problem are more then welcome my thanks to any one know the answers and will send them to me my e-mail : pashpash@internet-zahav.net pash1shahar@netscape.net c u SHAHAR מצפה בקוצר רוח לתגובתך נא לא להתעצל ולכתוב בהקדם האפשרי !~!~! כלומר עכשיו תודה ונפגש במכתב הבא שחר ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) Call for KLR articles... Date: 02 May 1999 01:18:34 +1000 Brian Hillman wrote: [...] > I am a newbie to the list but a long time rider and auto/bike wrench turned > comuter geek, and am currently doing a real world step by step rebuild of my > 85 KL600. Is this too old for what you are talking about?? I for one would be interested. The 600 should be mechanically similar enough to the 650 to be relevant. > I am married with > kids and I am the only income, so be sure, I AM ON A TIGHT BUDGET!!! Ouch. > I would > be happy to post and take pics, and add it to my personal website or where > ever the list deems appropriate. I'd be happy to read it and look at it. Mister_T B1 Bomber ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "e. rhoads" Subject: (klr650) Tire information NKLR Date: 01 May 1999 09:28:47 -0700 Anyone interested in looking over a fairly useful tire info faq ? There's useful/good info here as well as some things you already know. http://www.pirelli-moto.com/content.asp The Dunlop site is fairly useful too. For instance, you might check what they say under tips and maintenance regarding Dynamometer testing. (I doubt it applies to our machines.) http://www.dunloptire.com/cycle/buyersguide.html ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: LawsonCL@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Nolan N100 Date: 01 May 1999 12:56:54 EDT dwass and Gino discuss the Nolan N100: << looked at the Nolan 100 helmet today seems like it's pretty decent but I couldn't quite get the knack of opening the chin bar up very easy is it a pain in the rump or after a while do you get it figured out also how quite is the helmet?>> It is a pretty decent helmet. I got one last year at the BMW national rally and have ridden about 16,000 miles with it, since. I found it quieter than my Shoei X8, which I shipped back to Denver from Missoula. I mention that because that was about as stupid buying a brand new pair of hiking boots the day before setting out on a trek. About 100 miles out of Missoula on the way home I felt a lot of pressure at a couple points on my forehead. Ouch. Of course, after a few hours, all was fine as the helmet conformed to my head. Best to break a helmet, any helmet, on shorter rides committing to an all-day gallop. Also, about the chinbar release mechanism; it's a two-handed maneuver best accomplished with the helmet on your head. I try to avoid locking it in the closed position when not weaing it. Also, on wind noise. I understand it's much quieter than the Shoei DuoTec. All in all, I think the N100 a good buy for under $200.00. Chris Lawson KLR650 ST1100 R100GS/PD ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Krgrife@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Tires Date: 01 May 1999 13:33:20 EDT In a message dated 4/30/99 9:42:30 PM Pacific Daylight Time, dswass@northernnet.com writes: > I am looking for some more dirt oriented tires and I was wondering what > are the opinions on the Kenda 270 and the Cheng shin 858 they are both > pretty cheap so I wouldn't feel to bad if they burn off fairly quick my > main concern is are they to much of a handful to ride on the street? I am on my second set of K270's, the rear was mostly gone at about 3500 miles for dirt use but had enough tread for another thou or so on the street. I think that the Kenda is more durable than the Cheng Shin based on a couple of buddies who used them on their XR650's. They are certainly cost effective, I pay my local shop (Bits & Pieces MC Salvage in San Luis Obispo Ca) $85.00 a set mounted and balanced, I bring in the wheels off the bike. Kenda also seems to have a stiffer sidewall which I like when I've got the pressure lowered for off-pavement use. Just be careful cornering till use get used to the feel of a more aggressive tire. Kurt Grife ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Prospexx" Subject: (klr650) Greatest Nation Date: 01 May 1999 10:57:40 -0700 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0131_01BE93C1.6ED6E1A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 12:04:11 -0400 Peter Dahlheimer Wrote, off the list now for a while, headin across the greatest nation in the world on my '76 GL1000. take care everyone. I didn't know he was Canadian, I though he was from the States. 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But I've lost the conversion utility that would have told me how many ozs. or ccs are equal to 420 ml. Can anyone out there give me the conversion? TIA Chris Lawson ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MM Subject: (klr650) Helicoils Date: 01 May 1999 12:12:55 -0700 OK list. I'm getting ready to take the big leap and do my first-ever Helicoil insert. You may recall my panicked message of 2 weeks ago regarding stripped threads for valve cover bolts. My question is simple. Never having done this before, what are the key points to avoid irreparable damage. Obviously, go slow, and keep any drillings out of the engine case. I'm thinking about doing all 4 valve cover bolts at the same time, so I'll be drilling on the 2 left side cam caps - that's where the threads are. Any important must-do's or no-no's here? Last question - the thread on the bolt is 6 mm x 1.0 - I'm _ASSUMING_ that the helicoil is labeled by the bunged-up thread you are replacing, not the new, drilled-out outer diameter. Am I right? OK, everyone, here's your chance to give me any little helpful pearls of wisdom, or tips 'n' tricks on Helicoils. TIA (that's also doctor talk for "mini-stroke" - feel like I'm having one right now) Mike Magier 98 KLR650 GroundHog 99 ST1100 (STone-cold?) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) Helicoils Date: 01 May 1999 13:34:43 -0600 ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Saturday, May 01, 1999 1:12 PM > OK list. I'm getting ready to take the big leap and do my first-ever > Helicoil insert. You may recall my panicked message of 2 weeks ago regarding > stripped threads for valve cover bolts. > > My question is simple. Never having done this before, what are the key > points to avoid irreparable damage. Obviously, go slow, and keep any > drillings out of the engine case. I'm thinking about doing all 4 valve cover > bolts at the same time, so I'll be drilling on the 2 left side cam caps - > that's where the threads are. Any important must-do's or no-no's here? Hi Mike, I think putting in Helicoils are fun. Be sure when you drill out the hole that you do in straight and don't wobble around and make it larger than it needs to be. Also make sure the tap goes in straight too. You can fill in the grooves in between the flutes of the tap with grease to catch the fillings that would otherwise be loose in your engine. When you install the helicoil in the new threads make sure you use even pressure and just a slight push to start the threads in and then no pressure and just turn the installation tool. Depending on the type of helicoils, you will have a little part in the bottom of the helicoil that you can break off after you get the coil in as deep as you need it. This will let the bolt go past the end of the helicoil if it is longer than the new threads. You can use a small screw driver or a punch to knock off the end. Install the coil just below the surface of the old threads so that it will stay put. You may have to trim the coil down a little depending on the depth of the hole you have threaded. You can use some diagonal pliers to cut the coil to the right length. If done right the new threads will be much stronger than the alluminum ones you replaced. I have never seen a helicoil come out unless you take them out. > > Last question - the thread on the bolt is 6 mm x 1.0 - I'm _ASSUMING_ that > the helicoil is labeled by the bunged-up thread you are replacing, not the > new, drilled-out outer diameter. Am I right? That is correct. Fred ( I just changed 5 tires this morning, getting ready for next month.) > > OK, everyone, here's your chance to give me any little helpful pearls of > wisdom, or tips 'n' tricks on Helicoils. > > TIA (that's also doctor talk for "mini-stroke" - feel like I'm having one > right now) > > Mike Magier > 98 KLR650 GroundHog > 99 ST1100 (STone-cold?) > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Vic DeFilippis Subject: (klr650) Proper braking Date: 01 May 1999 13:09:59 -0700 I know this is a very stupid question but I am an inexperienced cyclist and am not sure what the best braking technique is. In other words, let's say I want to go from 50 MPH to 0 MPH on pavement. Specifically I want to do this in a way that is 1) safe and 2) best for the bike's longevity. I've been immediately shifting into neutral and using the brakes entirely to stop. Is it better to use some combination of downshifting and braking? If so what? Thanks for any and all opinions! -Vic A12 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: marta Subject: (klr650) Dunlop tire Date: 01 May 1999 16:19:33 -0400 Does anyone have an opinion on Dunlop's Trailmax, model D604? Marta ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" Subject: Re: (klr650) Tires Date: 01 May 1999 13:23:30 -0700 > The IRC with Metzler Sahara like pattern, not far from >Gripsters(tractor-tread), may appear like a good dualsport tire(good >on-road!),.......wrong. Noisy, low miles, forget Mud. If you are refering to the IRC GP 110, that's funny, many people have said that they've gotten very good milage from these tires, and been happy with them, though they are loud on the street. I haven't tried them yet to know for myself. Good Luck Tobin Lampson > >ps I advocate NO front brake NONE, in dirt. Maybe, in a too steep a >downhill, and y'all? > No offense, but you don't do much dirt riding do you? The front brake is necessary in the dirt, just as it is on the street. You just apply it with less force, and it requires a touch. If you don't use the front brake, how do you slow down fast enough? For me its on the throttle, through the bumps, tight corner coming up, on both brakes, lean it over, on the throttle and powerslide through. Jeff--A3 RM125 YZ250 CR480 XL500S XL600R KZ1000 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" Subject: Re: (klr650) Need conversion help Date: 01 May 1999 13:31:34 -0700 -----Original Message----- >Am installing Progressives this afternoon. But I've lost the conversion >utility that would have told me how many ozs. or ccs are equal to 420 ml. > >Can anyone out there give me the conversion? > Well, ml's and cc's are basically one and the same, that's a semantic argument that I won't bore you with, so 420 ml = 420 cc. 420 ml is about equal to 14.20 oz. Stick with the cc measurement, its more accurate. Jeff ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" Subject: Re: (klr650) Helicoils Date: 01 May 1999 13:35:09 -0700 I have never seen a helicoil come out unless >you take them out. > I've seen one pull out from a head bolt once, but it was a high performance engine, and the bolt was under a lot of tension, plus a little bad luck. Jeff ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeff Subject: Re: (klr650) Windshields. Date: 01 May 1999 14:41:52 -0600 Steve wrote: > I find the new Kawa windshield great up to 55MPH. After that, the > windstream definitely hits you smack dab in the middle of the face, which > causes a slight buffeting of the helmet(vibration). Much easier to tuck > behind the new shield than stock and I can see through it great. Wish it > were 4 inches taller... > Steve, Thanks for your response. I returned the taller Kawasaki Windshield and am going to order a Clearview +9. They offer a +7 and I need a +8, so, I'll order the +9 with the light gray tint. Here in New Mexico, I have to travel on freeways to get to my favorite fishing holes and hunting spots. The maximum speed limit on the freeways is 75 MPH (everyone runs 80!) and as you know the KLR has no problem with that. I've added the Vista-Cruise throttle lock, Honda XR vibration dampened mirrors, and Gel Grips just to handle that speed. The +9 windshield will complete my "Rider Comfort" upgrades. My next upgrade will be Progressive Shocks. I've already lowered the A13 with Quality R&D Links because of my 5' 9.75" frame and 31.25" inseam. When I get done this bike will fit only me or someone my same size! It's a great bike! Especially since there is so much one can do to it to fit it to what ever one is and what ever one wants to do with it. Agreed it? -- Jeff, NM, A13 & '74 TR5T Triumph Adventurer (A Triumph that could tractor) http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj - Down Home Page http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj/hamstuff - HAM It UP Page ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "ripkid" Subject: RE: (klr650) Proper braking Date: 01 May 1999 13:52:09 -0700 Vic DeFilippis > Sent: Saturday, May 01, 1999 1:10 PM > Subject: (klr650) Proper braking let's say > I want to go from 50 MPH to 0 MPH on pavement. Specifically I want to do > this in a way that is 1) safe and 2) best for the bike's longevity. I've > been immediately shifting into neutral and using the brakes entirely to > stop. Is it better to use some combination of downshifting and braking? > If so what? Thanks for any and all opinions! > > -Vic > A12 ---------- If you really want to stop. Say for instance your life depends on it. Don't mess with your gears, just grab hold of the brakes and get on 'em. 60-70% front, and 30-40% rear. Don't lock em up. See http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesdavis/DISCUSS.html for a more thorough explanation. If you are talking about a normal slow to stop you should get used to using your engine as a brake. Just don't shift into too low a gear or you will chirp a feel silly (or worse). Someone on this list directed me to the web site above, very handy for the experienced and novice alike. -rik A13 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tobin Lampson Subject: Re: (klr650) Tires Date: 01 May 1999 14:00:20 -0700 Jeff, I guess this is a case of different viewponts. Actually I've been riding since about age 9, now 43. On dirt I use only rear brake. This leaves hands free for....coming into corners, grabbing lower gears. At tightest point in corner I simultaneously throttle, release clutch and rear brake(when my angle applies max traction). Of course one must know what gear they're in..... I'm aware motocrossers use the two brake method, I'm an enduro guy. See you in Moab aye? Toby'Slide'Lampson klr 650 klr 600 IT 490 IT 400 XT 600 XL 500 kz1000 Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote: > > > The IRC with Metzler Sahara like pattern, not far from > >Gripsters(tractor-tread), may appear like a good dualsport > tire(good > >on-road!),.......wrong. Noisy, low miles, forget Mud. > > If you are refering to the IRC GP 110, that's funny, many people > have said that they've gotten very good milage from these tires, > and been happy with them, though they are loud on the street. I > haven't tried them yet to know for myself. > > Good Luck Tobin Lampson > > > >ps I advocate NO front brake NONE, in dirt. Maybe, in a too > steep a > >downhill, and y'all? > > > > No offense, but you don't do much dirt riding do you? The front > brake is necessary in the dirt, just as it is on the street. You > just apply it with less force, and it requires a touch. If you > don't use the front brake, how do you slow down fast enough? For > me its on the throttle, through the bumps, tight corner coming > up, on both brakes, lean it over, on the throttle and powerslide > through. > > Jeff--A3 > > RM125 > YZ250 > CR480 > XL500S > XL600R > KZ1000 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" Subject: Re: (klr650) Proper braking Date: 01 May 1999 13:57:44 -0700 >I know this is a very stupid question but I am an inexperienced cyclist and >am not sure what the best braking technique is. In other words, let's say >I want to go from 50 MPH to 0 MPH on pavement. Specifically I want to do >this in a way that is 1) safe and 2) best for the bike's longevity. I've >been immediately shifting into neutral and using the brakes entirely to >stop. Is it better to use some combination of downshifting and braking? >If so what? Thanks for any and all opinions! > Are we talking about a panic or emergency stop here, or are we talking about I need to stop at that light at the end of the off ramp? If its a panic stop, forget about downshifting. Stand low on the pegs, shift as much body weight to the rear of the bike as you can, and grab a hold of the clutch and both brakes and STOP! If your rear wheel starts to slide, that's OK, just ride it out until you've stopped. If your front brake starts to slide (not likely with stock brakes!), let off and reapply quickly. In a panic situation you should also be prepared to countersteer to avoid a collision if you aren't going to stop in time, a maneuver that has saved me three times in seventeen years of riding. If we are talking about regular stopping, coming up to an unexpected stoplight or just a stop sign, then you should downshift as well as brake. You don't need to let the clutch out while you downshift, although if you anticipated that stop sign, using the engine compression as you downshift saves the brakes from wearing some. You want to be in the gear that is appropriate for the speed you are traveling at, like you don't want to downshift to first gear if you are still rolling at 40 mph OK? Third gear is more appropriate at 40 mph. The gears on the KLR tranny are a bit sticky, OK? So you really should be rolling forward to shift either up or down. You'll find that after a panic stop, getting the bike back in first can be a little troublesome. These things come with experience and practice. I advise that you take a riders course. More bikers crash in their first year on the street. If you opt not to take a rider's safety course, then go find a large empty parking lot and practice. Choose a point, or a line, that you start to brake at. Approach that point at say, 25 mph, then do a full blown panic stop, and see how far it took you to stop. Once you get practiced at 25 mph, then go faster and see how far it took. Another thing you need to practice is approaching an object, say at 10-20 mph, and then do a countersteer to avoid it. Like use a parking divider as the object. Ride straight for the center of it at 10 mph, then steer around it, playing chicken with it. I've been riding on the dirt for near 17 years, but on the street for just 13 years, and I'm still learning and getting experience. I can tell you that in traffic I ride like a grandma, totally conservative, except that I can see over the wheel and am aware of everything going on around me. Jeff--A3 RM125 YZ250 CR480 XL500S XL600R KZ1000 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: Re: (klr650) Proper braking Date: 01 May 1999 14:07:26 -0700 Use everything: Front brake, back brake, engine compression. Just using your brakes alone will wear out your brakes quicker. Arne -----Original Message----- >I know this is a very stupid question but I am an inexperienced cyclist and >am not sure what the best braking technique is. In other words, let's say >I want to go from 50 MPH to 0 MPH on pavement. Specifically I want to do >this in a way that is 1) safe and 2) best for the bike's longevity. I've >been immediately shifting into neutral and using the brakes entirely to >stop. Is it better to use some combination of downshifting and braking? >If so what? Thanks for any and all opinions! > >-Vic >A12 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Meagher" Subject: (klr650) Torque values anyone? Date: 01 May 1999 16:09:23 -0500 I've got my A13 (568 miles) valve cover off, and a copy of Eldon's excellent valve adjustment article. I've got my new shims. Valves were: RI:.005, LI:.005, RE:.007, LE:.006. I'm going to the next thinner shim on each one, since they tend to tighten over time, or so I understand. Eldon gives the torque values for the cam shaft bearing caps, and valve cover bolts, but what about the following: -- Upper Cam chain guide slipper bolts - 3 ea. 8 mm -- Top Engine mount bolts - 3 ea. 12 mm -- Oil filter cap bolts -- engine side cover bolts I'm going to follow Skip's advice and re-do whatever I can with anti-sieze. I guess I should do the swingarm and linkages and steering head and axles too, in the interest of preventive maintenance while the bike is new. sigh... I am so paranoid of stripping threads. I think too loose is better than too tight, at least I have a good low-range torque wrench. I couldn't find anything in the archives. Thanks, Tom Meagher Houston TX A13 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeff Subject: (klr650) (NKLR) Beer Date: 01 May 1999 15:08:44 -0600 Yesterday scientists revealed that beer contains small traces of female hormones. To prove their theory, the scientists fed 100 men 12 pints of beer and observed that 100% of them gained weight, talked excessively without making sense, became emotional, couldn't drive, couldn't think, and refused to apologize when wrong. No further testing is planned. -- Jeff, NM, A13 & '74 TR5T Triumph Adventurer ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Christopher J Beasley Subject: Re: (klr650) Need conversion help Date: 01 May 1999 14:17:58 -0700 LawsonCL@aol.com wrote: > Am installing Progressives this afternoon. But I've lost the conversion > utility that would have told me how many ozs. or ccs are equal to 420 ml. > Well, 1 cc = 1ml. How's that.b ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Christopher J Beasley Subject: Re: (klr650) Helicoils Date: 01 May 1999 14:21:07 -0700 MM wrote: > OK list. I'm getting ready to take the big leap and do my first-ever > Helicoil insert. You may recall my panicked message of 2 weeks ago regarding > stripped threads for valve cover bolts. > > My question is simple. Never having done this before, what are the key > points to avoid irreparable damage. Obviously, go slow, and keep any > drillings out of the engine case. I'm thinking about doing all 4 valve cover > bolts at the same time, so I'll be drilling on the 2 left side cam caps - > that's where the threads are. Any important must-do's or no-no's here? > Personally, I'd avoid doing the cam caps unless I had to. Seems too easy to screw them up. Just take your time, follow the instructions. Pack the top end with clean rags before you start. Pick up all the chips with a shop vac before you remove the rags. This should keep the chips out of the motor. > Last question - the thread on the bolt is 6 mm x 1.0 - I'm _ASSUMING_ that > the helicoil is labeled by the bunged-up thread you are replacing, not the > new, drilled-out outer diameter. Am I right? > Helicoils are labeled as you say, for the thread being repaired.Good luck! b ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Christopher J Beasley Subject: Re: (klr650) Torque values anyone? Date: 01 May 1999 14:27:29 -0700 If you have the manuals ( you do right? ) there is a list near the beginning that gives generic torque values based upon the size of the fastener. That's what I use if there is no specific torque listed for a particular fastner. It's really easy to strip a 4mm screw going into aluminum. b snip ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tobin Lampson Subject: Re: (klr650) Proper braking Date: 01 May 1999 14:38:15 -0700 Vic, It seems the general consensus is an alternating between downshifting(letting the motor slow you down) and braking. This will not overheat(possibly glazing) brakes in those long downhill situations. However, in contrast to the info given at the website ripkid provides, I beleive 'the' factor in determining brake technique should be 'terrain'. Use brakes, front more than rear, on pavement that is for sure- gravel/sand/debris free, and straight. Otherwise the dirt method of heavy rear little front applies. Why? Can you see debris on pavement in a corner, sand? What happens using the street method of braking when you hit a patch of pebbles, oil, ice, on pavement? If using an offroad method of braking as a foundation, then, in those times on pavement when you encounter, sand, gravel, etc., anywhere, your instinct will be to go to the rear brake allowing the front tire to 'roll over' the loose stuff rather than have it slip out from under you. This will get you some wrong answers on a MC test in Ca. though, and I'm okay to disagree.....cause I've eaten it the other way.... Two times, bbbbaaaaaaddddd.....since, my long time riding buds donned me ..........'the guy who never falls down.' Don't worry my next spill is coming, its inevitable, with fun, and time. Kawtrailer, 'Slide'Lampson Vic DeFilippis wrote: > > I know this is a very stupid question but I am an inexperienced cyclist and > am not sure what the best braking technique is. In other words, let's say > I want to go from 50 MPH to 0 MPH on pavement. Specifically I want to do > this in a way that is 1) safe and 2) best for the bike's longevity. I've > been immediately shifting into neutral and using the brakes entirely to > stop. Is it better to use some combination of downshifting and braking? > If so what? Thanks for any and all opinions! > > -Vic > A12 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Brian Hillman" Subject: Re: (klr650) Tires Date: 01 May 1999 14:46:31 PDT I am running a new set of GP110's on my 85 KL600 and am very happy with them, on dirt and street. I ride alot and have a couple of grand on them already with some light tread wear mostly in the rear. They are only noticeably noisy when cornering at speed and I do canyon carve. I feel that these tires are pretty darn good. Especially compared to the Cheng Shin's that were there when I got this old beast. Oh and front brake is VERY important in the dirt. I have never seen a MX dirt only bike with a crappy front brake, ever wonder why???? :-) (my MX roots show?) Brian 85 KL600-B1 >If you are refering to the IRC GP 110, that's funny, many people >have said that they've gotten very good milage from these tires, >and been happy with them, though they are loud on the street. I >haven't tried them yet to know for myself. > >Good Luck Tobin Lampson > > > >ps I advocate NO front brake NONE, in dirt. Maybe, in a too >steep a > >downhill, and y'all? > > > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeff Subject: (klr650) What valve clearences? Date: 01 May 1999 15:45:22 -0600 Do you all remember my little trick using finger nail polish to create a seal between the head cover and the head? Well the seal wasn't broken during the 500 mile check-up. Now I've got 739 miles on the new engine and the outdoor temperature today was 52 degrees and windy. So, I decided to break the seal today and check the valve clearances myself. The intake clearances are spec'ed at .004" - .008". Both were .004" exactly! The exhaust clearances are spec'ed at .006" - .010". The right side was .006" exactly! The left side was .005" exactly! Here's my dilemma. Do I take the machine back to the shop where they said they checked them and never broke my enamel polish seal or do I accept these clearances with the knowledge that things will wear and the clearances will come into tolerance eventually? I think I'll ignore the extra close exhaust clearance and not chance the shop with the adjustment because they may make things worse! What do you guys and gals think? I value your feedback. It's still a warranty issue if it goes back. They didn't do what was paid for. BTW, the Ground Hog is running Super! -- Jeff, NM, A13 & '74 TR5T Triumph Adventurer (A Triumph that could tractor) http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj - Down Home Page http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj/hamstuff - HAM It UP Page ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeff Subject: (klr650) Proper braking and other motorcycling tips: Date: 01 May 1999 16:06:54 -0600 Vic, Here is a web site for all bikers who ride Motorcycles. Beginners and experts: http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesdavis/DISCUSS.html Braking methods depend on speed: http://home.earthlink.net/~eca/TIP028.html Braking in a curve: http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesdavis/TIP128.html -- Jeff, NM, A13 & '74 TR5T Triumph Adventurer (A Triumph that could tractor) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeff Subject: (klr650) conversions Date: 01 May 1999 15:56:07 -0600 Chris Worte: >Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 14:45:08 EDT >From: LawsonCL@aol.com >Subject: (klr650) Need conversion help > >Am installing Progressives this afternoon. But I've lost the conversion >utility that would have told me how many ozs. or ccs are equal to 420 ml. > >Can anyone out there give me the conversion? > >TIA > >Chris Lawson I use a program called Unit. It converts anything! You answer is .420 liters = 14.20229 ounces (fluid) -- Jeff, NM, A13 & '74 TR5T Triumph Adventurer (A Triumph that could tractor) http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj - Down Home Page http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj/hamstuff - HAM It UP Page ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: Re: (klr650) What valve clearences? Date: 01 May 1999 15:23:18 -0700 First, it's been my underatanding that over time the valves will get tighter, not looser. Adjust them. Second, GO BACK TO THE SHOP AND TELL THEM THEY ARE BUSTED. Ask them what gives and go from there. They should offer to make things right. If they don't, go to another shop for your servicing and do evrything in your power to publically discredit the reputation of the shop that lied to you. Arne -----Original Message----- Cc: KLR-Digest >Do you all remember my little trick using finger nail polish to create a >seal between the head cover and the head? Well the seal wasn't broken >during the 500 mile check-up. Now I've got 739 miles on the new engine and >the outdoor temperature today was 52 degrees and windy. So, I decided to >break the seal today and check the valve clearances myself. > >The intake clearances are spec'ed at .004" - .008". Both were .004" >exactly! > >The exhaust clearances are spec'ed at .006" - .010". The right side was >.006" exactly! The left side was .005" exactly! > >Here's my dilemma. Do I take the machine back to the shop where they said >they checked them and never broke my enamel polish seal or do I accept >these clearances with the knowledge that things will wear and the >clearances will come into tolerance eventually? I think I'll ignore the >extra close exhaust clearance and not chance the shop with the adjustment >because they may make things worse! > >What do you guys and gals think? I value your feedback. > >It's still a warranty issue if it goes back. They didn't do what was paid >for. > >BTW, the Ground Hog is running Super! >-- >Jeff, NM, A13 & '74 TR5T Triumph Adventurer (A Triumph that could tractor) >http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj - Down Home Page >http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj/hamstuff - HAM It UP Page > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" Subject: Re: (klr650) What valve clearences? Date: 01 May 1999 15:29:04 -0700 >Do you all remember my little trick using finger nail polish to create a >seal between the head cover and the head? Well the seal wasn't broken >during the 500 mile check-up. Now I've got 739 miles on the new engine and >the outdoor temperature today was 52 degrees and windy. So, I decided to >break the seal today and check the valve clearances myself. > >The intake clearances are spec'ed at .004" - .008". Both were .004" >exactly! > >The exhaust clearances are spec'ed at .006" - .010". The right side was >.006" exactly! The left side was .005" exactly! > >Here's my dilemma. Do I take the machine back to the shop where they said >they checked them and never broke my enamel polish seal or do I accept >these clearances with the knowledge that things will wear and the >clearances will come into tolerance eventually? I think I'll ignore the >extra close exhaust clearance and not chance the shop with the adjustment >because they may make things worse! > >What do you guys and gals think? I value your feedback. > >It's still a warranty issue if it goes back. They didn't do what was paid >for. > Your valve clearances will only get tighter, not looser, with wear. From the factory they probably were set for the middle of the tolerance range, and now they are tight. If they are still in spec, leave them alone, but that one exhaust valve is out of spec, and exhaust valves are the most important to have in the range. You paid for a valve clearance check, and they didn't do it. Talk to the owner of the shop, present him with the evidence that they didn't do it (pretty damning evidence, except that you broke the seal yourself), and threaten to report his shop the the BBB if he doesn't remedy the situation and have the valves checked. To be sure, you probably could go till the next service interval before adjusting the valves with the clearances that they are at now, but these dealers have to learn that they can't get away with cheating people like that. I doubt that they are incompetent, just dishonest. Jeff ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" Subject: Re: (klr650) Proper braking and other motorcycling tips: Date: 01 May 1999 15:41:00 -0700 >Vic, > >Here is a web site for all bikers who ride Motorcycles. Beginners and >experts: >http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesdavis/DISCUSS.html > >Braking methods depend on speed: >http://home.earthlink.net/~eca/TIP028.html > >Braking in a curve: >http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesdavis/TIP128.html >-- Checked these links, and while helpful, I tend to distrust anyone who in one sentence speaks authoritatively with physics definitions of delta V, or dv/dt, to represent acceleration (positive or negative), then in the next sentence talks about centrifugal force, which is a phantom force, it doesn't exist. There is no such thing as centrifugal force in physics, only centripetal acceleration. Jeff ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) What valve clearences? Date: 01 May 1999 17:45:30 -0600 > >The intake clearances are spec'ed at .004" - .008". Both were .004" >exactly! > >The exhaust clearances are spec'ed at .006" - .010". The right side was >.006" exactly! The left side was .005" exactly! I would adjust all four following Eldon's advise to keep 'em loose during the first 6,000 miles. I would do it myself to get the experience. You will gain nothing by going back to the dealer...learn how to do them now. We've got a shim bank and you've done the hard part already...you've pulled all the stuff off...the rest goes easily. Just go buy a torque wrench. Adjust the intakes to .006 and the exhausts to ..008 and .009 (the shims only come in .002 increments). Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Torque values anyone? Date: 01 May 1999 17:57:47 -0600 >I've got my A13 (568 miles) valve cover off, and a copy of Eldon's excellent >valve adjustment article. I've got my new shims. Valves were: RI:.005, >LI:.005, RE:.007, LE:.006. I'm going to the next thinner shim on each one, >since they tend to tighten over time, or so I understand. good... > >Eldon gives the torque values for the cam shaft bearing caps, and valve >cover bolts, but what about the following: > >-- Upper Cam chain guide slipper bolts - 3 ea. 8 mm >-- Top Engine mount bolts - 3 ea. 12 mm > >-- Oil filter cap bolts >-- engine side cover bolts > Tom, I've left my 650 manual at work and only have my 600 here so I can't help...hopefully someone will take a quick peek...did you take the side cover off? Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bob Zeliff" Subject: Re: (klr650) Nolan N100 Date: 01 May 1999 20:43:58 -0400 I also just bought a Nolan. It fits my round head better than my Duotec. I like the vents...they are much better and the chin guard flips up higher than the Duotec for better visability. I think it is noisier than the Duotec(IMHO) and I'm not sure the quality...durability is up to Shoei stds....only time will tell. It was over $100 cheaper so that means something too. My $.02 -----Original Message----- >dwass and Gino discuss the Nolan N100: > ><< looked at the Nolan 100 helmet today seems like it's pretty decent but I > couldn't quite get the knack of opening the chin bar up very easy is it > a pain in the rump or after a while do you get it figured out also how > quite is the helmet?>> > >It is a pretty decent helmet. I got one last year at the BMW national rally >and have ridden about 16,000 miles with it, since. I found it quieter than my >Shoei X8, which I shipped back to Denver from Missoula. I mention that >because that was about as stupid buying a brand new pair of hiking boots the >day before setting out on a trek. About 100 miles out of Missoula on the way >home I felt a lot of pressure at a couple points on my forehead. Ouch. Of >course, after a few hours, all was fine as the helmet conformed to my head. >Best to break a helmet, any helmet, on shorter rides committing to an all-day >gallop. > >Also, about the chinbar release mechanism; it's a two-handed maneuver best >accomplished with the helmet on your head. I try to avoid locking it in the >closed position when not weaing it. > >Also, on wind noise. I understand it's much quieter than the Shoei DuoTec. > >All in all, I think the N100 a good buy for under $200.00. > >Chris Lawson >KLR650 >ST1100 >R100GS/PD ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MM Subject: (klr650) DONE!! Date: 01 May 1999 18:24:11 -0700 Well, my valve adjustment saga has now reached a happy conclusion. After finding a broken upper cam chain slipper and a stripped valve cover bolt hole, I now have the GroundHog back in one piece. Thanks to all, especially the mystic Hinkinator, for all the emotional/logistical support. I can't say enough about this list. A year ago, I had never twisted a wrench before. Now, I've not only adjusted the valves, I also got to install my first Helicoil!! All kidding aside, this list has done a lot for my sense of mechanical independence. That alone has been worth all the endless oil volume, braking physics and F650 threads. Y'all are the greatest!! Mike Magier 98 KLR650 GroundHog (on the road again!!) 99 ST1100 (STimpy?) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Brian Hillman" Subject: Re: (klr650) Proper braking and other motorcycling tips: Date: 01 May 1999 19:29:50 PDT then in the next sentence talks about >centrifugal force, which is a phantom force, it doesn't exist. >There is no such thing as centrifugal force in physics, only >centripetal acceleration. > >Jeff > > It is amazing how few people actually know that. I have had several disagreements with people at work on this very subject and they literally are rocket scientists. I am a computer engineer at a major aerospace corp in LA, Ca. But it is kinda splitting hairs, don't ya think?? :-) Brian _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: Re: (klr650) What valve clearences? Date: 01 May 1999 20:02:23 -0700 I'm going by what many, many people on this list have personally experienced, and reported. Also, from what I understand, the most change comes in the first 500 miles - which is why the first adjustment is recommended here. Many have reported tight valves after only this short period of time. Then, after this adjustment, things seem to stabilize for quite a long time. I too am coming up on my first adjustment as well. Arne -----Original Message----- >Arne, > >THE VALVES GET TIGHTER? Have you seen many do this? And over what period >of time? > >-- >Jeff, NM, A13 & '74 TR5T Triumph Adventurer (A Triumph that could tractor) >http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj - Down Home Page >http://www.flash.net/~n5ujj/hamstuff - HAM It UP Page > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Nice Country Ride Today with a bunch of bikes... Date: 01 May 1999 23:27:50 EDT Went on a nice country ride today with twelve other bikes from our club. CBR1000, CB1000. Superhawk, Blackbird XX, R1100RT, Helix, CB450, 2 750 Nighthawks, KZ750LTD, Magna 750, 98' Katana 750......... And of course who lead all these bikes on this 100 plus mile ride you ask? Me and The "Moose" of course. Boy was it hard to stay away from gravel and dirt roads!!!! Good fun, and a wide diversity of bikes. The Harley rider didn't show up today though, and nobody rode the new Vulcan 1500 this time (an extra bike of the Blackbird owner). Maybe next time...Perfect day too. 78 degrees, not a cloud in the sky, and almost no wind......Sweet! Bill S. A12 "Moose" Montgomery, IL. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Meagher" Subject: Re: (klr650) What valve clearences? Date: 01 May 1999 22:38:56 -0500 Jeff, I just did my valves for the first time. My Kawasaki dealer promised me that it wouldn't invalidate my warranty for the owner to do the initial service. It is not that bad a job to do, but don't underestimate it either, as it really is quite a bit of work, IMHO. In fact, when the shop does it for $150 bucks, that ain't that bad a deal. Having said that, I recommend the experience as valuable to "grow closer" with your scoot. I found the hardest parts to be the following: 1.) Getting the #@%$ valve cover off. Unbelievably, it IS possible. 2.) Be sure to "stick your finger" in the cam chain adjuster hole after you remove it, to keep tension on it while you turn the crankshaft. I figured this out after I noticed the chain trying to skip on the front sprocket. 3.) Just taking Eldon's advice about removing the cam shafts, after trying to get the shims out with them still in. 4.) Getting the ^&*$#@ inner mounting bolt of the radiator fan back on. Very poor access to this thing. I initially cross-threaded it into the little clip on nut. I finally ended up taking a piece of wire to tie back the radiator hose to the frame so I could get to the thing. My local Kawasaki (Wild West Honda Kawasaki) shop let me just rummage through their shim box to get the shims I needed, which was very decent of them. I got it all back together, and it seems to run fine, so I guess I didn't screw it up too bad. Although I forgot re-check the valve clearances after replacing the cam shafts, per Eldon's recommendation. Oops. Tom Meagher Houston TX A13 >Here's my dilemma. Do I take the machine back to the shop where they said >they checked them and never broke my enamel polish seal or do I accept >these clearances with the knowledge that things will wear and the >clearances will come into tolerance eventually? I think I'll ignore the >extra close exhaust clearance and not chance the shop with the adjustment >because they may make things worse! > >What do you guys and gals think? I value your feedback. > >It's still a warranty issue if it goes back. They didn't do what was paid >for. > >BTW, the Ground Hog is running Super! >-- >Jeff, NM, A13 & '74 TR5T Triumph Adventurer (A Triumph that could tractor) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: RUSIG1@aol.com Subject: (klr650) motorcycle awareness rally Date: 01 May 1999 23:40:12 EDT Today I attended the motorcycle awareness rally in Boise it was a gathering of over 400+ bikes. We rode from a park in Meridian to the capitol in downtown Boise.(about 12 miles) It was quite motivating to see so many bikes together. They had to shut the interstate down for us there was so many bikes. I of course on my A13 was the only KLR to be found in a sea of Harley's and other assorted bikes. I did see one other wannabe KLR BMW enduro but that was it. So you can now rest easy knowing that we were represented at the rally. I did get some strange looks from some of these people they probably thought I was lost and looking for a supercross or something. According to one of the speakers at the rally the motorcycle accidents and bike related fatalities in Idaho are down while the amount of bikes being registered are up so apparently the rider safety and public awareness programs are working. Dave ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Meagher" Subject: Re: (klr650) Torque values anyone? Date: 01 May 1999 22:45:16 -0500 Beez, No, I'm trying to skimp on the manuals, for the moment, that's why I need a little help from those that do have them, you big spenders you. I What torque does Kawasaki recommend for the engine side cover bolts? I do have a good torque wrench. I seem to recall something like 4-6 ft lbs for this sort of bolt, from my Honda days. Tom Meagher Houston TX A13 -----Original Message----- Cc: KLR 650 >If you have the manuals ( you do right? ) there is a list near the beginning >that gives generic torque values based upon the size of the fastener. That's >what I use if there is no specific torque listed for a particular fastner. It's >really easy to strip a 4mm screw going into aluminum. >b > >snip > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Eric Jasniewicz" Subject: (klr650) Serious problem with Supertrapp canisters Date: 01 May 1999 22:31:35 -0000 Hi, I have an IDS pipe for my Kawasaki KLR 650, purchased September 1998, 11,000 miles on the pipe. The serious problem is the turn-down tip is tearing away at the canister, thus rendering it not only useless, but outright dangerous. The reason I say dangerous is because of a sequence of events that occurred today. I was riding with another KLR 650 owner with a Supertrapp pipe, the standard disk model, not the IDS. He was ahead of me, when all of a sudden, the baffle blew out the back of the canister into the roadway. This occurred in a lengthy procession of motorcycles, a very dangerous situation. A foot-long chunk of metal bouncing in the roadway. The three attachment screws for the baffle had torn completely through the canister. Thankfully, no accident occurred, and no one was injured. I was prepared to leave the group of riders later in the day, when a fellow noticed my turn-down tip was bent. Strange I thought. I then noticed my canister too was being torn through by the three screws retaining the turn-down tip. I belong to a group of KLR owners on the internet. In the past year, I heard several individuals mention they had blown out their baffle of their Supertrapp pipe. I assumed this to mean the fiberglass packing, not the baffle itself! Please tell me how you will provide me with a replacement pipe for my obviously defective unit. If this is not considered defective, then I am truly shocked at the quality of a Supertrapp product. A product that does not last more than 11,000 miles, less than a year. Eric Jasniewicz ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Meagher" Subject: Re: (klr650) Torque values anyone? Date: 01 May 1999 22:48:18 -0500 Kurt, I plan on removing one bolt at a time, for everything I can get to easily, especially the side covers and exhaust, per Skip's recommendation. I will smear a little anti-sieze on them and then replace and re-torque. Tom Meagher Houston TX A13 > >Tom, I've left my 650 manual at work and only have my 600 here so I can't >help...hopefully someone will take a quick peek...did you take the side >cover off? > >Kurt > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: Re: (klr650) Serious problem with Supertrapp canisters Date: 01 May 1999 20:54:58 -0700 This certainly does not sound healthy. Hopefully I will not experience similar problems with the Big Gun. Good luck Eric. Arne -----Original Message----- Cc: KLR Mailing List >Hi, > >I have an IDS pipe for my Kawasaki KLR 650, purchased September 1998, 11,000 >miles on the pipe. > >The serious problem is the turn-down tip is tearing away at the canister, >thus rendering it not only useless, but outright dangerous. The reason I >say dangerous is because of a sequence of events that occurred today. > >I was riding with another KLR 650 owner with a Supertrapp pipe, the standard >disk model, not the IDS. He was ahead of me, when all of a sudden, the >baffle blew out the back of the canister into the roadway. This occurred in >a lengthy procession of motorcycles, a very dangerous situation. A >foot-long chunk of metal bouncing in the roadway. The three attachment >screws for the baffle had torn completely through the canister. Thankfully, >no accident occurred, and no one was injured. > >I was prepared to leave the group of riders later in the day, when a fellow >noticed my turn-down tip was bent. Strange I thought. I then noticed my >canister too was being torn through by the three screws retaining the >turn-down tip. > >I belong to a group of KLR owners on the internet. In the past year, I >heard several individuals mention they had blown out their baffle of their >Supertrapp pipe. I assumed this to mean the fiberglass packing, not the >baffle itself! > >Please tell me how you will provide me with a replacement pipe for my >obviously defective unit. If this is not considered defective, then I am >truly shocked at the quality of a Supertrapp product. A product that does >not last more than 11,000 miles, less than a year. > >Eric Jasniewicz > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Christopher J Beasley Subject: Re: (klr650) What valve clearences? Date: 01 May 1999 21:06:50 -0700 > snip > screw it up too bad. Although I forgot re-check the valve clearances after > replacing the cam shafts, per Eldon's recommendation. Oops. > > Tom Meagher > Houston TX Ooh, potentially major oops. I've dropped the right shims in the wrong holes once. If it were me, I'd pull the cover again. You'd be suprised how much easier these jobs get with repitition. I occasionally end up "backtracking" on my repair jobs, and wish I hadn't, but when I'm finally done, I'm never sorry. Just a suggestion. b ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Christopher J Beasley Subject: Re: (klr650) Torque values anyone? Date: 01 May 1999 21:20:20 -0700 Tom Meagher wrote: > Beez, > No, I'm trying to skimp on the manuals, for the moment, that's why I need a > little help from those that do have them, you big spenders you. Yeah, I got a load into my 88 NOT! ;-)I'm a little suprised nobody got ya the #s yet, lemme run down stairs and get the books... Ok, by thread diameter: 5mm-3.4 to 4.9 Nm = 30 to 23 inLb 6mm 5.9 to 7.8 Nm = 52 to 69 inLb 8mm 14 to 19 Nm = 10 to 13.5 footLb etc Now just measure that side cover bolt, I think they're M5. Enjoy! b > > > I What torque does Kawasaki recommend for the engine side cover bolts? I do > have a good torque wrench. I seem to recall something like 4-6 ft lbs for > this sort of bolt, from my Honda days. > > Tom Meagher > Houston TX > A13 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Christopher J Beasley > To: Tom Meagher > Cc: KLR 650 > Date: Saturday, May 01, 1999 5:28 PM > Subject: Re: (klr650) Torque values anyone? > > >If you have the manuals ( you do right? ) there is a list near the > beginning > >that gives generic torque values based upon the size of the fastener. > That's > >what I use if there is no specific torque listed for a particular fastner. > It's > >really easy to strip a 4mm screw going into aluminum. > >b > > > >snip > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Christopher J Beasley Subject: Re: (klr650) Torque values anyone? Date: 01 May 1999 21:24:03 -0700 DOH! That should be 43 in Lb V > 5mm-3.4 to 4.9 Nm = 30 to 23 inLb > > Enjoy! > b > > > > > > > I What torque does Kawasaki recommend for the engine side cover bolts? I do > > have a good torque wrench. I seem to recall something like 4-6 ft lbs for > > this sort of bolt, from my Honda days. > > > > Tom Meagher > > Houston TX > > A13 > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Christopher J Beasley > > To: Tom Meagher > > Cc: KLR 650 > > Date: Saturday, May 01, 1999 5:28 PM > > Subject: Re: (klr650) Torque values anyone? > > > > >If you have the manuals ( you do right? ) there is a list near the > > beginning > > >that gives generic torque values based upon the size of the fastener. > > That's > > >what I use if there is no specific torque listed for a particular fastner. > > It's > > >really easy to strip a 4mm screw going into aluminum. > > >b > > > > > >snip > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Juan Villarreal Subject: (klr650) NKLR- Mig 29 kill Date: 01 May 1999 21:32:02 -0700 (PDT) Hello folks- Excuse the bandwidth here but I've gotten a hold of a couple of very dramatic photos of a Yugoslav Mig 29 going down in the skies over Kosovo after being attacked by a US Navy jet. In the first one you can see that the pilot is still in the cockpit (his helmet is clearly visible), while the second one shows him ejecting to safety (his lucky day). The clarity is unbelievable. Reply to me off list if you want me to send you a copy (I'm learning, Kurt!). Your taxpayer dollars at work (unless you're Canadian)... Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR "The Happy Hooligan" _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Meagher" Subject: Re: (klr650) What valve clearences? Date: 01 May 1999 23:28:04 -0500 Beez, Prudent advice no doubt. I did double check everything while doing it. I wonder if the shop mechanics typically re-check after re-installing the cams. It sounds and runs fine... (can't quite bear the thought of doing all that work again, just to find out everthing's OK. On the other hand, now I've got this nagging doubt. thanks a lot...) Tom Meagher, Houston TX A13 > >snip > >> screw it up too bad. Although I forgot re-check the valve clearances after >> replacing the cam shafts, per Eldon's recommendation. Oops. >> >> Tom Meagher >> Houston TX > >Ooh, potentially major oops. I've dropped the right shims in the wrong holes >once. If it were me, I'd pull the cover again. You'd be suprised how much >easier these jobs get with repitition. I occasionally end up "backtracking" on >my repair jobs, and wish I hadn't, but when I'm finally done, I'm never sorry. >Just a suggestion. >b > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Christopher J Beasley Subject: Re: (klr650) What valve clearences? Date: 01 May 1999 21:39:09 -0700 Tom Meagher wrote: > snip > everthing's OK. On the other hand, now I've got this nagging doubt. thanks > a lot...) Sorry, you sounded worried though... ;) b ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Meagher" Subject: Re: (klr650) What valve clearences? Date: 02 May 1999 00:15:17 -0500 Beez, Thanks for the numbers! 5 mm refers to the OD of the threads, right? Those are probably the 8mm hex heads for the cases. And yes, I am a worry wart. Perhaps I secretly like the excitment of wondering whether my motor is now a ticking time bomb because I forgot to re-check my clearances, after "double-checking" the shimcalc and shim re-installation work. I guess there's no way to know until either I check the valves again, or it blows up. Tom, lazy and with fingers crossed. -----Original Message----- Cc: klr list > > >Tom Meagher wrote: > >> > >snip > >> everthing's OK. On the other hand, now I've got this nagging doubt. thanks >> a lot...) > >Sorry, you sounded worried though... ;) >b > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" Subject: Re: (klr650) What valve clearences? Date: 01 May 1999 22:29:10 -0700 Two quick questions: 1. Did you use a micrometer to measure the thickness of the shims you took out and the ones you put in? (they have been marked incorrectly in the past for different motors on me) If you did, then no worries. 2. Did you use a non-hardening liquid sealant (high temp RTV) on the lightly on the underside of the cam cover gasket along the left side? This is a potential leaking spot, presumably because of the two cresant shaped plugs in the gasket there. I think that this is the only location that the manual actually calls for RTV to be used. If you didn't, then consider pulling the cover off again, or you might get a leak here, and then you can check your clearances again, to ease your troubled mind. Like my old Sargent Major used to say, "Check, Check and Re-check!" (this as we were on the loading ramp, getting ready to jump out of a perfectly good airplane). Jeff >Beez, >Prudent advice no doubt. I did double check everything while doing it. I >wonder if the shop mechanics typically re-check after re-installing the >cams. It sounds and runs fine... > >(can't quite bear the thought of doing all that work again, just to find out >everthing's OK. On the other hand, now I've got this nagging doubt. thanks >a lot...) > >Tom Meagher, >Houston TX >A13 > > >> >>snip >> >>> screw it up too bad. Although I forgot re-check the valve clearances >after >>> replacing the cam shafts, per Eldon's recommendation. Oops. >>> >>> Tom Meagher >>> Houston TX >> >>Ooh, potentially major oops. I've dropped the right shims in the wrong >holes >>once. If it were me, I'd pull the cover again. You'd be suprised how much >>easier these jobs get with repitition. I occasionally end up >"backtracking" on >>my repair jobs, and wish I hadn't, but when I'm finally done, I'm never >sorry. >>Just a suggestion. >>b >> >> >> >> > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Meagher" Subject: Re: (klr650) What valve clearences? Date: 02 May 1999 01:37:05 -0500 >Two quick questions: 1. Did you use a micrometer to measure the >thickness of the shims you took out and the ones you put in? >(they have been marked incorrectly in the past for different >motors on me) If you did, then no worries. Hmmm, no, but it's a good idea. Whatever absolute sizes they are, they are definitely a monotonically increasing sequence. > >2. Did you use a non-hardening liquid sealant (high temp RTV) on >the lightly on the underside of the cam cover gasket along the >left side? This is a potential leaking spot, presumably because >of the two cresant shaped plugs in the gasket there. I think >that this is the only location that the manual actually calls for >RTV to be used. If you didn't, then consider pulling the cover >off again, or you might get a leak here, and then you can check >your clearances again, to ease your troubled mind. Like my old >Sargent Major used to say, "Check, Check and Re-check!" (this as >we were on the loading ramp, getting ready to jump out of a >perfectly good airplane). > >Jeff > You know, I could have sworn it was RTV! I even took the valve cover to the shop with me today, and told the parts guy "can I have a tube of RTV for this please?", pointing to some of the residue. He came back with a can of Gask-a-cinch, which I used. If they leak I wonder if it starts right away, or waits for a while? Thanks for the good input! Tom Houston TX A13 > >>Beez, >>Prudent advice no doubt. I did double check everything while >doing it. I >>wonder if the shop mechanics typically re-check after >re-installing the >>cams. It sounds and runs fine... >> >>(can't quite bear the thought of doing all that work again, just >to find out >>everthing's OK. On the other hand, now I've got this nagging >doubt. thanks >>a lot...) >> >>Tom Meagher, >>Houston TX >>A13 >> >> >>> >>>snip >>> >>>> screw it up too bad. Although I forgot re-check the valve >clearances >>after >>>> replacing the cam shafts, per Eldon's recommendation. Oops. >>>> >>>> Tom Meagher >>>> Houston TX >>> >>>Ooh, potentially major oops. I've dropped the right shims in >the wrong >>holes >>>once. If it were me, I'd pull the cover again. You'd be >suprised how much >>>easier these jobs get with repitition. I occasionally end up >>"backtracking" on >>>my repair jobs, and wish I hadn't, but when I'm finally done, >I'm never >>sorry. >>>Just a suggestion. >>>b >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Randy Golla" Subject: (klr650) bad joke! Date: 02 May 1999 00:30:10 PDT Jeff Wait wait wait I'm not getting on your case by no means. By no means am I trying to imply an insult. But you, do have to remember there are woman in the digest. Some may take offense. That would leave us (klr digest) a bad name. Considering the bad rap of off roaders in Minnesota I really could do with out your joke. I want to have a place to ride like you. But when you say things like that some people may take it the wrong way. and then we all pay the price. leave the jokes for the mates and the interesting stuff for the digest. Randy P.S. Sorry I have to take a stand. P.s.s. Who ever monitors the digest should take care of this and stop it before it gets out of hand... _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Randy Golla" Subject: (klr650) Fwd: Re: just a question Date: 02 May 1999 00:30:23 PDT >From: Jeff >To: Randy Golla >Subject: Re: just a question >Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 20:51:11 -0600 > >You must be referring to the Beer test. > >Yes. > >What tripped your trigger? It was a joke! Get a life! > >-- >Jeff, NM, A13 & '74 TR5T Triumph Adventurer (A Triumph that could tractor) > > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "LindaT" Subject: RE: (klr650) bad joke! Date: 02 May 1999 09:35:32 -0400 From a woman's POV, I find the 'joke' offensive, but not enough to provoke comment. Until now. I don't think this 'infraction' requires any changes to how the list is run. I can ignore stupid stuff and just hope there aren't any more occurrences. If there are and I'm sufficiently offended, I'll just unsub. Each list has its own dynamics and, as a newbie, I'll listen and make my own decisions. KLR content - finally going to work on the carb today. I sure hope I can get it started after I'm finished. LindaT. 95 F3 Purple Haze (55K miles and counting...) 86 KLR250 Klarabelle http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Pit/4807/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Re: Trouble here again!! Date: 02 May 1999 10:25:56 -0400 Ian, I have sent your request for information to the KLR650 LIST as I think there are a number of folks there that can reply to your questions with better information then I have here. I'm sorry I have been so long in replying to your email but I have been gone for about three weeks and just returned a few days ago - getting caught up on email now! To the KLR LIST: How about some help for Ian. He has been working on getting his KLR going for over a month now! He needs help! See the questions in the text below - thanks. Bill Ian Baylis wrote: > Hi Bill, > > It's Ian Baylis here again (of the KLR650 wiring and CDI saga). Would you > believe that I've only just managed to obtain a CDI for my KLR? I had to > get that from your side of the Atlantic too!! So, as you can probably > guess, my bike still hasn't been sorted. In fact, since the motor hasn't > run for so long, it won't start!! In the process of trying to start it, > I've knackerd the starter motor (new one arriving tomorrow). So the saga > continues......... > > Anyway, sorry to keep bothering you with my private little disasters, but I > could do with a little more help. I still can't get a manual for the bike > (out of print) so I've got a few queries for which I would really > appreciate your help - > > 1 - Have you got any info on the carberetta settings? > 2 - There is a little adjuster screw on the bottom of the left hand rotor > cover (just by the tip if the gear shift lever). What the hell does it > do?? My best guess is that its it adjust the primary drive chain tension, > but I don't know how to adjust it - any suggestions? > 3 - Are there any tips you can offer on how to get the bugger (as my KLR is > now aptly named) started. I've tried bump starting it and with two people > pushing and it locks the back wheel in 5th! (Well at least the compression > is good!). The next step is to pull it with a car with the wife on pillion > (greatly increased adhesion between the road and back tyre!), but the good > lady is taking some persuading. So any "other" ideas you can offer will be > greatly received. > > And would you beleive I'm still looking forward to getting this bike back > on the road? > > Many thanks for your help in the past and present, > > Keep riding, keep smiling, > > Ian. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Re: Tech Tips Date: 02 May 1999 10:28:21 -0400 Rick, I am sending your request for information to the KLR650 LIST. there are many folks on the LIST who are much better qualified then I to answer your question on the fan. To the KLR650 LIST: How about helping out Rick with his fan questions. Bill rberenz wrote: > I appreciate the tips. Love my KLR! > It's still cool here in Canada and my temp gauge reads hot just by > driving the bike a mile. Can't figure it out. Fan does not come on but > worked when I grounded it or ran direct power to the switch. Bike runs > rough as well. How soon should the fan come on. Mechanic here said it > only comes on during hot summer days. Any ideas. > > Thanks in advance > > Rick Berenz ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Re: looking for help !!! Date: 02 May 1999 10:41:34 -0400 --------------7C0095D1867DC6965093DDA1 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable X-MIME-Autoconverted: from 8bit to quoted-printable by out1.ibm.net id OAA109502 I'm forwarding your request for help to the KLR650 LIST. there are many folks on the LIST who can help you with your questions. To the LIST: How about some help here - thanks. Bill pashpash wrote: > hi im looking for help !!! I own a KLR-650 1995 and I have a problem > with over heating my fan do not work !!!is there any fuse box that I > can check for a burn fuse , and were is it ??were is the thermostat > for the fan unit ??how can I check if it works properly ???any > suggestion to solve my problem are more then welcome my thanks to any > one know the answers and will send them to me my e-mail : > pashpash@internet-zahav.net > pash1shahar@netscape.net c u SHAHAR=EE=F6=F4=E4 =E1=F7=E5=F6=F8 =F8=E5= =E7 =EC=FA=E2=E5=E1=FA=EA > =F0=E0 =EC=E0 =EC=E4=FA=F2=F6=EC =E5=EC=EB=FA=E5=E1 =E1=E4=F7=E3=ED =E4= =E0=F4=F9=F8=E9 > !~!~! =EB=EC=E5=EE=F8 =F2=EB=F9=E9=E5 > =FA=E5=E3=E4 =E5=F0=F4=E2=F9 =E1=EE=EB=FA=E1 =E4=E1=E0 > =F9=E7=F8 --------------7C0095D1867DC6965093DDA1 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm forwarding your request for help to the KLR650 LIST.  there are many folks on the LIST who can help you with your questions.

To the LIST:  How about some help here - thanks.

Bill

pashpash wrote:

hi im looking for help !!! I own a KLR-650  1995 and I have a problem with over heating my fan do not work !!!is there any fuse box that I can check for a burn fuse , and were is it ??were is the thermostat for the fan unit ??how can I check if it works properly ???any suggestion to solve my problem are more then welcome my thanks to any one know the answers and will send them to me my e-mail : pashpash@internet-zahav.net                  pash1shahar@netscape.net  c u SHAHARîöôä á÷åöø øåç ìúâåáúê
ðà ìà ìäúòöì åìëúåá áä÷ãí äàôùøé
!~!~! ëìåîø òëùéå
úåãä åðôâù áîëúá äáà
ùçø
--------------7C0095D1867DC6965093DDA1-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Re: Trouble here again!! Date: 02 May 1999 10:25:56 -0400 Ian, I have sent your request for information to the KLR650 LIST as I think there are a number of folks there that can reply to your questions with better information then I have here. I'm sorry I have been so long in replying to your email but I have been gone for about three weeks and just returned a few days ago - getting caught up on email now! To the KLR LIST: How about some help for Ian. He has been working on getting his KLR going for over a month now! He needs help! See the questions in the text below - thanks. Bill Ian Baylis wrote: > Hi Bill, > > It's Ian Baylis here again (of the KLR650 wiring and CDI saga). Would you > believe that I've only just managed to obtain a CDI for my KLR? I had to > get that from your side of the Atlantic too!! So, as you can probably > guess, my bike still hasn't been sorted. In fact, since the motor hasn't > run for so long, it won't start!! In the process of trying to start it, > I've knackerd the starter motor (new one arriving tomorrow). So the saga > continues......... > > Anyway, sorry to keep bothering you with my private little disasters, but I > could do with a little more help. I still can't get a manual for the bike > (out of print) so I've got a few queries for which I would really > appreciate your help - > > 1 - Have you got any info on the carberetta settings? > 2 - There is a little adjuster screw on the bottom of the left hand rotor > cover (just by the tip if the gear shift lever). What the hell does it > do?? My best guess iX-Mozilla-Status: 0009he primary drive chain tension, > but I don't know how to adjust it - any suggestions? > 3 - Are there any tips you can offer on how to get the bugger (as my KLR is > now aptly named) started. I've tried bump starting it and with two people > pushing and it locks the back wheel in 5th! (Well at least the compression > is good!). The next step is to pull it with a car with the wife on pillion > (greatly increased adhesion between the road and back tyre!), but the good > lady is taking some persuading. So any "other" ideas you can offer will be > greatly received. > > And would you beleive I'm still looking forward to getting this bike back > on the road? > > Many thanks for your help in the past and present, > > Keep riding, keep smiling, > > Ian. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) ReX-Mozilla-Status: 0009s: <370C960B.CCB5657E@golden.net> Date: 02 May 1999 10:28:21 -0400 Rick, I am sending your request for information to the KLR650 LIST. there are many folks on the LIST who are much better qualified then I to answer your question on the fan. To the KLR650 LIST: How about helping out Rick with his fan questions. Bill rberenz wrote: > I appreciate the tips. Love my KLR! > It's still cool here in Canada and my temp gauge reads hot just by > driving the bike a mile. Can't figure it out. Fan does not come on but > worked when I grounded it or ran direct power to the switch. Bike runs > rough as well. How soon should the fan come on. Mechanic here said it > only comes on during hot summer days. Any ideas. > > Thanks in advance > > Rick Berenz ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Re: looking for help !!! Date: 02 May 1999 10:41:34 -0400 --------------7C0095D1867DC6965093DDA1 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable X-MIME-Autoconverted: from 8bit to quoted-printable by out1.ibm.net id OAA91316 I'm forwarding your request for help to the KLR650 LIST. there are many folks on the LIST who can help you with your questions. To the LIST: How about some help here - thanks. Bill pashpash wrote: > hi im looking for help !!! I own a KLR-650 1995 and I have a problem > with over heating my fan do not work !!!is there any fuse box that I > can check for a burn fuse , and were is it ??were is the thermostat > for the fan unit ??how can I check if it works properly ???any > suggestion to solve my problem are more then welcome my thanks to any > one know the answers and will send them to me my e-mail : > pashpash@internet-zahav.net > pash1shahar@netscape.net c u SHAHAR=EE=F6=F4=E4 =E1=F7=E5=F6=F8 =F8=E5= =E7 =EC=FA=E2=E5=E1=FA=EA > =F0=E0 =EC=E0 =EC=E4=FA=F2=F6=EC =E5=EC=EB=FA=E5=E1 =E1=E4=F7=E3=ED =E4= =E0=F4=F9=F8=E9 > !~!~! =EB=EC=E5=EE=F8 =F2=EB=F9=E9=E5 > =FA=E5=E3=E4 =E5=F0=F4=E2=F9 =E1=EE=EB=FA=E1 =E4=E1=E0 > =F9=E7=F8 --------------7C0095D1867DC6965093DDA1 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm forwarding your request for help to the KLR650 LIST.  there are many folks on the LIST who can help you with your questions.

To the LIST:  How about some help here - thanks.

Bill

pashpash wrote:

hi im looking for help !!! I own a KLR-650  1995 and I have a problem with over heating my fan do not work !!!is there any fuse box that I can check for a burn fuse , and were is it ??were is the thermostat for the fan unit ??how can I check if it works properly ???any suggestion to solve my problem are more then welcome my thanks to any one know the answers and will send them to me my e-mail : pashpash@internet-zahav.net                  c u SHAHARîöôä á÷åöø øåç ìúâåáúê
ðà ìà ìäúòöì åìëúåá áä÷ãí äàôùøé
!~!~! ëìåîø òëùéå
úåãä åðôâù áîëúá äáà
ùçø
--------------7C0095D1867DC6965093DDA1-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Re: MC Adventure Touring E-mail List Date: 02 May 1999 10:57:14 -0400 Vik, I have sent your information on the adventure touring list to the KLT650 LIST - there might be some folks there interested in joining your list. I'll put your LIST information on the Dual Sport Web Page later today. Bill Vik Banerjee wrote: > Hi Bill, > > Would you consider putting a link to the adventure MC touring e-mail list on > your page? I have attached the info below for you review. > > How was your trip? > > Thanks, > > Vik > > I have setup a mailing list for motorcycle adventure touring. You can > subscribe at: > > http://www.onelist.com/subscribe/cmbt_touring > > The list is for all brands of bikes and riders from any part of the world. > > The list language is English and it is not moderated so content may not be > suitable for minors. > > The purpose of the list is to provide a focused discussion for riders of > dual purpose bikes regarding issues such as: > > - suitable bikes for dual purpose touring > - equipment > - luggage > - navigation > - first aid > - organizing and meeting riders for your own trips > - trip stories > - administrative issues for foreign travel > > The hope is that this may provide more focus and information on these common > aspects of dual purpose motorcycle touring than currently exists on brand > focussed lists. > > There will be a searchable list archive and I'll publish more details to the > list. > > Any questions don't hesitate to ask. > > Cheers, > > Vik Banerjee > Calgary, Alberta, Canada > KLR650 > GS500 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeff Subject: (klr650) valve clearances Date: 02 May 1999 09:07:10 -0600 Arne, Kurt, Jeff , and Tom, I'd like to thank all of you for your quick responses to my Valve Clearance thread. I was able to dismantle the KLR, inspect the shim clearances, and reassemble the KLR in less than 2 hours. The next time I do it I will replace the shims using Shim Calc program and a good Micrometer which I have. What I don't have is a torque wrench. From what I've read in the manual(s), it looks like I'll need two. One for in/lb and one for ft/lb. Can anyone recommend a good manufacturer for torque wrenches? Thanks again for the info. -- Jeff, NM, A13 & '74 TR5T Triumph Adventurer (A Triumph that could tractor) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Preferred Customer" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR- Mig 29 kill Date: 02 May 1999 11:17:01 -0400 -----Original Message----- >Hello folks- > >Excuse the bandwidth here but I've gotten a hold >of a couple of very dramatic photos of a Yugoslav >Mig 29 going down in the skies over Kosovo after >being attacked by a US Navy jet. In the first >one you can see that the pilot is still in the >cockpit (his helmet is clearly visible), while >the second one shows him ejecting to safety (his >lucky day). The clarity is unbelievable. Reply >to me off list if you want me to send you a copy >(I'm learning, Kurt!). Your taxpayer dollars at >work (unless you're Canadian)... > If I could be so lucky to be Canadian. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Rob Gendreau" Subject: Re: (klr650)[NKLR] Dunlop email; was Dunlop tire Date: 01 May 1999 14:52:39 -0700 Speaking of Dunlop: they have a free webmail site at http://www.handleit.net/. You get your choice of domain names, like "cyclefanz," and all the usual. They have pretty good info and some race news as well. I use webmail addresses for work, and I figure I might as well patronize a company that supports racing. -- Rob Gendreau Oakland, California gendreau@ccnet.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Rob Gendreau" Subject: Re: (klr650) Proper braking Date: 01 May 1999 15:06:30 -0700 A couple of pieces of advice were helpful to me as a rookie in addition to those already made. First, think of your tires as having only so much traction. You can "spend" that traction up to a point, and then they skid. If you are using some traction to corner, remember that you then have "less" traction available to you to corner. And vice versa. It helps me to feel how much margin for error I have. Second, if your rear wheel starts skidding on the pavement, don't quickly let off the brake, as I have done (to my regret). Once a rear is sliding, if you let it off you run the risk that the bike will snap up highsiding you. Not desirable. -- Rob Gendreau Oakland, California gendreau@ccnet.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeff Subject: (klr650) (NKLR)FWD: Re:just a question Date: 02 May 1999 09:24:51 -0600 This is too weird. We don't hear anything from you regarding a positive input to the KLR List and all of a sudden I post a stupid joke, (sorry ladies) and now I'm getting slammed publicly by a bleeding heart from Minnesota. Your issues with riding on public lands in Minnesota no way has any bearing on what I post on this forum. (DAH) I agree, it was a stupid joke! I like beer, I like bikes, and I love women. Yes my wife lets me talk about anything I like (which is my reply to your original question). This time I will post my reply to you on the list. My first reply to you, I used tact. "GET A LIFE!" Enough Dorf92 -- Jeff, NM, A13 & '74 TR5T Triumph Adventurer (A Triumph that could tractor) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Juan Villarreal Subject: (klr650) NKLR- Torque wrenches Date: 02 May 1999 08:46:23 -0700 (PDT) > Can anyone recommend a good manufacturer for > torque wrenches? Jeff, I just checked my valves about 5 days ago and was able to find a good Craftsman torque wrench. No small feat considering I live in Panama! It measures in in/lbs and I paid about $60. It's model number is one of the following: 44593,44594, or 44595. The owner's manual doesn't specify which one mine is. Hope this helps... Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR "The Happy Hooligan" _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Brian Hillman" Subject: Re: (klr650) valve clearances Date: 02 May 1999 09:19:00 PDT You get what you pay for. I buy Snap-on and MAC but thats beacuse I was a mechanic. For occasional use, go to Sears and pick up a decent one. These are delicate measuring devices, DO NOT TRY TO SAVE A BUCK. They can really cause damage if they are not correctly calibrated. Hillbilly 85 KL600-B1 >Can anyone recommend a good manufacturer for torque wrenches? > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeff Subject: Re: (klr650) valve clearances Date: 02 May 1999 10:57:15 -0600 Brian Hillman wrote: > You get what you pay for. I buy Snap-on and MAC but thats beacuse I was a > mechanic. For occasional use, go to Sears and pick up a decent one. These > are delicate measuring devices, DO NOT TRY TO SAVE A BUCK. They can really > cause damage if they are not correctly calibrated. > > Hillbilly > 85 KL600-B1 > > >Can anyone recommend a good manufacturer for torque wrenches? > > > > > ____________________________________ Thanks Mr. Hillbilly, I trained to become a mechanic all through school. Top in my classes. When I joined the Navy, they said I qualified for advanced electronics. Electronics was my hobby then. Now shade tree mechanics is my hobby. I have just put off buying a good torque wrench, I borrowed instead. Time to bit the bullet! Thanks again, -- Jeff, NM, A13 & '74 TR5T Triumph Adventurer (A Triumph that could tractor) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: brbo@uniserve.com Subject: (klr650) Tools List.. Date: 02 May 1999 10:24:40 -0700 There was a discussion about the ultimate tool list to carry for repairs to the KLR -- I believe it was Gino had put something together ? Have I missed it -- been getting problems with receiving all messages from the list (my fault) ... Thanks for all the great info, Brian -- tools / KLR / repairs -- all in the same thread isn't that a misnomer ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bob Zeliff" Subject: (klr650) Stopped in the woods Date: 02 May 1999 13:48:02 -0400 Here is a puzzeler! I hope simple. I was out riding the klr this morning...the first real ride of the year here in VT. I had gone about 100 miles 50% pavement...50% dirt roads. I was back in a bout 15 miles on rutted and wash board dirt road when I noticed that the KLR had lost two of the 3 screws holding on the wind screen. I stopped the bike to take of the wind screen before I lost more parts. I check over the rest of the bike for loose pieces. The fun started when i tried to start the bike. Dead...nothing. No lites, no neutral light, no head light. Dead! checked the kill switch...fiddled with the ingnition key.....took the seat off and checked the fuses...ok. checked by by pass of the side stand switch...looks ok...check the by pass of the neutral start...looked ok. I was on a little hill...so I turn the bike downward...made sure the key was on...but the bike in 3rd and coasted....droped the clutch and she started right up. I'm happy to know that the klr will run on generator only...wish it had a kick starter (A10).... I road the 50 miles home with out stopping. Now the question is what failed? I'be be tied up else whre the next few days...before I get a chance to trace the problem down. Anyone willing to diagnose my problem. Fame and fortune if you get it right. Bob A10 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Brian Hillman" Subject: Re: (klr650) Stopped in the woods Date: 02 May 1999 11:28:16 PDT check the connectors in the dash, under the speedometer. there are 4 (2 on right and 2 on left) connectors to the right and left of the headlight which connect all the controls (starter, kill switch, turn sgs etc.) to the wiring harness. Take off the fairing and check it, I bet on has come loose. This happens so often to me, I have wrapped wire around them to keep them tight.. Let me know. Hillbilly 85 KL600-B1 >The fun started when i tried to start the bike. Dead...nothing. No lites, >no neutral light, no head light. Dead! checked the kill switch...fiddled >with the ingnition key.....took the seat off and checked the fuses...ok. >checked by by pass of the side stand switch...looks ok...check the by pass >of the neutral >start...looked ok. I was on a little hill...so I turn the bike >downward...made sure the key was on...but the bike in 3rd and >coasted....droped the clutch and she started right up. I'm happy to know >that the klr will run on generator only...wish it had a kick starter >(A10).... I road the 50 miles home with out stopping. > >Now the question is what failed? I'be be tied up else whre the next few >days...before I get a chance to >trace the problem down. Anyone willing to diagnose my problem. Fame and >fortune if you get it right. > >Bob >A10 > > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Juan Villarreal Subject: (klr650) Stopped in the woods (diagnosis) Date: 02 May 1999 11:54:15 -0700 (PDT) > The fun started when i tried to start the bike. > Dead...nothing. > Now the question is what failed? Bob, I'm betting that your battery is the culprit. How old is yours and did you connect it to a tender during that long Vermont winter? At the least you should have it load-tested. Let us know... Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR "The Happy Hooligan" _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: WingRJ@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) ReX-Mozilla-Status: 0009s: Date: 02 May 1999 15:16:21 EDT In a message dated 5/2/99 7:54:39 AM, whaycoc@ibm.net writes: >> It's still cool here in Canada and my temp gauge reads hot just by >> driving the bike a mile. Can't figure it out. 1st of all, what do you consider HOT? My gage sits at the 1:00 oclock position on a regular basis. The fan does come on and maintains that position. See Ya ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: (klr650) New Umbrella Girl (NKLR) Date: 02 May 1999 12:20:05 -0700 I advise all of you to check out the new Umbrella Girl at Fred's. What a cutie! Arne http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: Re: (klr650) ReX-Mozilla-Status: 0009s:<370C960B.CCB5657E@golden.net> Date: 02 May 1999 12:34:23 -0700 >>> It's still cool here in Canada and my temp gauge reads hot just by >>> driving the bike a mile. Can't figure it out. > > 1st of all, what do you consider HOT? > > My gage sits at the 1:00 oclock position on a regular basis. The fan >does come on and maintains that position. > > See Ya That's high. I'm in Abbotsford BC (still pretty cool here too), but even on the warmer days, in town driving slow, while moving I'm around 1/4 way up the scale. Stopped at an intersection brings me to just shy of half. Arne '99 KLR650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Brian Hillman" Subject: (klr650) (KL600) mikuni performance carb Date: 02 May 1999 13:39:37 PDT Anybody have any info on the WB260 mikuni performance 38mm carb on Freds website? I am in need of a carb and dont know if this will fit my needs (or work on my KL600 for that matter). This would be the next documentable upgrade on this bike of mine. I will begin posting my upgrades on my site shortly with any pertinent info or instructions. My scanner is bsted right now, so I have to decide on buying a new on or parts for the bike.....decisions, decisions, decisions!!! I am looking for a all around upgrade over the current vacuum dependent CV carb. Isn't 38mm a little small. I was thinking about a 40 or 41mm carb. Does anyone know if this is a pumper carb?? Hillbilly 85 KL600-B1 _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Oilie@aol.com Subject: (klr650) What the hell is this? Date: 02 May 1999 17:27:34 EDT Underneath the plastic side panel on the left rear of my A11 is a piece of molded black plastic that has several finger-sized holes in it. It will snap out of the bike easily, and if I ever wanted to mount it on the wall of my garage, it would make a nice rack for my screwdrivers. There's not enough room under the plastic side panel to use this thing for a screwdriver rack, so what the hell is it, and why is it there? My owner's manual doesn't even mention it. Jim Henry, Co-Honcho Republic Of Texas Biker Rally Travis County Expo Center in Austin 4-6 June 1999 oilie@aol.com 972-386-7619 vox/fax 972-866-8363 rally hotline info ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tobin Lampson Subject: Re: (klr650) Stopped in the woods Date: 02 May 1999 14:49:37 -0700 Bob, Since its 1st ride, assuming it was in storage for the winter.. ....here I go sticking my neck out again......."If it was 'me','I' would first look at Battery for connects and levels, then fuses and bypasses closer. Tobin Lampson Bob Zeliff wrote: > > Here is a puzzeler! I hope simple. I was out riding the klr this > morning...the first real ride of the year here in VT. I had gone about 100 > miles 50% pavement...50% dirt roads. I was back in a bout 15 miles on > rutted and wash board dirt road when I noticed that the KLR had lost two of > the 3 screws holding on the wind screen. I stopped the bike to take of the > wind screen before I lost more parts. > I check over the rest of the bike for loose pieces. > > The fun started when i tried to start the bike. Dead...nothing. No lites, > no neutral light, no head light. Dead! checked the kill switch...fiddled > with the ingnition key.....took the seat off and checked the fuses...ok. > checked by by pass of the side stand switch...looks ok...check the by pass > of the neutral > start...looked ok. I was on a little hill...so I turn the bike > downward...made sure the key was on...but the bike in 3rd and > coasted....droped the clutch and she started right up. I'm happy to know > that the klr will run on generator only...wish it had a kick starter > (A10).... I road the 50 miles home with out stopping. > > Now the question is what failed? I'be be tied up else whre the next few > days...before I get a chance to > trace the problem down. Anyone willing to diagnose my problem. Fame and > fortune if you get it right. > > Bob > A10 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: marta Subject: (klr650) Disappointed Date: 02 May 1999 18:22:48 -0400 This appears to be the end of my short lived relationship with your group. Before I go, however, I'd like to express my double disappointment w/ the type of material being posted. First of all, there is the "estrogen in the beer" joke. I think it's obviously distastful and offensive to all females who may be a part of the group. Shame! Then, there is Juan w/ his view on the Kosovo conflict. I have previously cut a thread on that topic short because I felt that this is no place for such discussions. Since I still feel that way but at the same time do not wish to be exposed to his sadistic commentaries I guess I have to seek the soul mates for my KLRs elsewhere. Marta ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "LindaT" Subject: (klr650) Non-starter (still) Date: 02 May 1999 18:22:28 -0400 I worked on the bike for a few hours today. I replaced the inline fuel filter. I pulled the carb loose and shot a lot of carb cleaner in there. I don't think my skills are up to disassembling the little bugger, though. Also, I can't get the choke cable loose. It sputters, coughs and backfires, but won't start. I have run out of ideas and it appears that the next step is to throw money at a Kawi dealer. LindaT. 95 F3 Purple Haze (55K miles and counting...) 86 KLR250 Klarabelle http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Pit/4807/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Disappointed...NKLR Date: 02 May 1999 16:38:31 -0600 >Before I go, however, I'd like to express my double disappointment w/ >the type of material being posted. First of all, there is the "estrogen >in the beer" joke. I think it's obviously distastful and offensive to >all females who may be a part of the group. Shame! >Then, there is Juan w/ his view on the Kosovo conflict. I have >previously cut a thread on that topic short because I felt that this is >no place for such discussions. Since I still feel that way but at the >same time do not wish to be exposed to his sadistic commentaries I guess >I have to seek the soul mates for my KLRs elsewhere. > >Marta Marta, I'm sorry you've been offended...there is no easy way to get any list to behave according to what any or all of us would like. I can assure you, however, that this list does far better than most in avoiding subjects and material that are offensive. Derisive and opinionated commentaries are not encouraged and usually go away very quickly. The listers here like elsewhere in life learn from their mistakes. I hope you reconsider. Kurt (List administrator) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: LPetty4585@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Disappointed Date: 02 May 1999 18:42:56 EDT In a message dated 5/2/99 10:15:18 PM !!!First Boot!!!, marta@discussion.org writes: << Before I go, however, I'd like to express my double disappointment w/ the type of material being posted. >> I don't care what listserve you are on there will always be something you don't like about it, it's called democracy, everyone is entitled to an opion, personnally I only open topics that I am interested in, and delete the rest. Adios ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Mark Subject: Re: (klr650) Stopped in the woods Date: 02 May 1999 19:40:32 -0500 I'm with Brian on this one. I had to bump-start my bike to get home from work once. After checking everything over, I discovered that the connector to the entire right handlebar electrical had vibrated loose. Mark B2 A2 >check the connectors in the dash, under the speedometer. there are 4 (2 on >right and 2 on left) connectors to the right and left of the headlight which >connect all the controls (starter, kill switch, turn sgs etc.) to the wiring >harness. Take off the fairing and check it, I bet on has come loose. This >happens so often to me, I have wrapped wire around them to keep them tight.. > >Let me know. > >Hillbilly >85 KL600-B1 > > >>The fun started when i tried to start the bike. Dead...nothing. No lites, >>no neutral light, no head light. Dead! checked the kill switch...fiddled >>with the ingnition key.....took the seat off and checked the fuses...ok. >>checked by by pass of the side stand switch...looks ok...check the by pass >>of the neutral >>start...looked ok. I was on a little hill...so I turn the bike >>downward...made sure the key was on...but the bike in 3rd and >>coasted....droped the clutch and she started right up. I'm happy to know >>that the klr will run on generator only...wish it had a kick starter >>(A10).... I road the 50 miles home with out stopping. >> >>Now the question is what failed? I'be be tied up else whre the next few >>days...before I get a chance to >>trace the problem down. Anyone willing to diagnose my problem. Fame and >>fortune if you get it right. >> >>Bob >>A10 >> >> > > >_______________________________________________________________ >Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert Morgan" Subject: Re: (klr650) What the hell is this? Date: 02 May 1999 16:37:33 -0700 It is a baffle to keep mud and water from the rear wheel from splashing into the air box intake port. I had mine out for a while and it ran leaner, so I put it back. The bike did seem a little zippier with it out though. Morgan ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: K650dsn@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Tools List.. Date: 02 May 1999 20:00:00 EDT In a message dated 5/2/99 11:31:59 AM Mountain Daylight Time, brbo@uniserve.com writes: << There was a discussion about the ultimate tool list to carry for repairs to the KLR -- I believe it was Gino had put something together ? Have I missed it -- been getting problems with receiving all messages from the list (my fault) ... >> Nope. Just started typing it in. Should have it by tomorrow morning. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Vik Banerjee" Subject: Re: (klr650) Disappointed - NKLR Date: 02 May 1999 18:04:55 -0600 One thing I have noticed on several lists is people get unhappy with certain topics, but say nothing till they can't take it anymore and then a) quit the list as Marta did, or b) flame people viscously. I would certainly never tell people to compromise their personal standards and just stay on a list, but if you are unhappy you have to say something BEFORE you get to the point of no return. If you do others will realize that you have a problem with a topic they may feel is harmless. This doesn't mean the topic will go away instantaneously, but most of us are reasonable caring people and we will do what we can to not offend others. We don't all have the same sense of what is appropriate so you can't expect people to read minds. Having said that some people have standards so high or issues so sensitive they can't interact with a non-homogenous group of motorcycle riders. That's something for the individual to manage not the group. Finally, people don't seem to understand common diplomacy. If you want somebody to do something don't lay down an ultimatum - "...stop that or I am leaving!" If you just explain yourself and ask for some understanding you'll be much more likely to meet with success - "....I find sexiest jokes very offensive, but really enjoy the rest of the list discussion. Is there a way to deal with the jokes so that I don't have to read them?" Just some thoughts, Vik -----Original Message----- >This appears to be the end of my short lived relationship with your >group. > >Before I go, however, I'd like to express my double disappointment w/ >the type of material being posted. First of all, there is the "estrogen >in the beer" joke. I think it's obviously distastful and offensive to >all females who may be a part of the group. Shame! >Then, there is Juan w/ his view on the Kosovo conflict. I have >previously cut a thread on that topic short because I felt that this is ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Steve" Subject: RE: (klr650) Disappointed...NKLR Date: 02 May 1999 08:15:08 -0400 OK, new requirement. Everyone except Juan give their mom's phone number to Kurt (Juan, you are grounded) so in case we get out of hand, Marta can call our Mothers... Did she really use the word shame? Jeezuz. Last time I checked I was not her kid, and the majority of us are not kids. Keep in mind that someday your kids might meet one of us out there in the world, so you should keep on top of how we behave so you can better prepare them and help them avoid the shock that Marta received when she poked her head out of the shell. -----Original Message----- [mailto:owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com]On Behalf Of Kurt Simpson Sent: Sunday, May 02, 1999 6:39 PM >Before I go, however, I'd like to express my double disappointment w/ >the type of material being posted. First of all, there is the "estrogen >in the beer" joke. I think it's obviously distastful and offensive to >all females who may be a part of the group. Shame! >Then, there is Juan w/ his view on the Kosovo conflict. I have >previously cut a thread on that topic short because I felt that this is >no place for such discussions. Since I still feel that way but at the >same time do not wish to be exposed to his sadistic commentaries I guess >I have to seek the soul mates for my KLRs elsewhere. > >Marta Marta, I'm sorry you've been offended...there is no easy way to get any list to behave according to what any or all of us would like. I can assure you, however, that this list does far better than most in avoiding subjects and material that are offensive. Derisive and opinionated commentaries are not encouraged and usually go away very quickly. The listers here like elsewhere in life learn from their mistakes. I hope you reconsider. Kurt (List administrator) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Mark Subject: Re: (klr650) Disappointed Date: 02 May 1999 20:10:56 -0500 Boo hoo. Boo hoo hoo hoo. Mark B2 A2 >Before I go, however, I'd like to express my double disappointment w/ >the type of material being posted. First of all, there is the "estrogen >in the beer" joke. I think it's obviously distastful and offensive to >all females who may be a part of the group. Shame! >Then, there is Juan w/ his view on the Kosovo conflict. I have >previously cut a thread on that topic short because I felt that this is >no place for such discussions. Since I still feel that way but at the >same time do not wish to be exposed to his sadistic commentaries I guess >I have to seek the soul mates for my KLRs elsewhere. > >Marta ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: OlZorro@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Engine Guards Date: 02 May 1999 20:31:57 EDT Got an opinion on the utility of engine guards relative to the extra weight? I do street and moderate trail riding. I understand Obe Wan is making them, as is 5-Star. Preferences with integrated highway pegs? TIA John Paul Gray Dana Point CA 94 ST1100 95 KLR650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: Re: (klr650) Disappointed Date: 02 May 1999 17:38:43 -0700 -----Original Message----- >This appears to be the end of my short lived relationship with your >group. > >Before I go, however, I'd like to express my double disappointment w/ >the type of material being posted. First of all, there is the "estrogen >in the beer" joke. I think it's obviously distastful and offensive to >all females who may be a part of the group. Shame! >Then, there is Juan w/ his view on the Kosovo conflict. I have >previously cut a thread on that topic short because I felt that this is >no place for such discussions. Since I still feel that way but at the >same time do not wish to be exposed to his sadistic commentaries I guess >I have to seek the soul mates for my KLRs elsewhere. > >Marta This is unfortunate Marta, as there really are a great group of people here. I have been on this list for a few months now, and off-colour jokes are very few and far between. As for the Kosovo "discussions"; Juan made a single 'post', but there has been no follow-up discussion - and I read all my mail. Perhaps you should just lurk for the while to develop a feel for the group, before judging so quickly. Arne ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Prospexx" Subject: (klr650) M/C Gearbox Date: 02 May 1999 18:10:00 -0700 A really nice little ShockWave utility to see how a gearbox operates . http://www.best.com/~mroeder/motorcycle/hondaCB1/transmission.html You do need ShockWave to view it, available for free at the ShockWave homepage http://www.macromedia.com/shockwave/download/ This transmisssion has six speeds, but the principal is exactly the same on our KLR's. Have look and it it may just give you an idea how your gearbox works. Tom McKenzie tomck@prospexx.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: OlZorro@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Horn Mounting Date: 02 May 1999 21:25:20 EDT I've read R.K. Dow's horn-mounting experience in the archives. I'm wondering if anyone else has found any other ways to mount twin horns on the KLR. There are some fairly small, flat, horns I'm anticipating using. Got to fix that sound. John Paul Gray Dana Point CA 94 ST1100 95 KLR650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Prospexx" Subject: (klr650) NKLR Date: 02 May 1999 18:16:46 -0700 Huge list of motorcycle links worldwide. Supposedly the largest list of links in existence. http://sepnet.com/cycle/clubs.htm Tom ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ken Belfatto Subject: (klr650) Aftermarket Exhaust lifespan Date: 02 May 1999 20:42:20 -0500 Hi all I was wondering what kind of lifespan the different aftermarket exhaust systems get. We've all read about the Cobra blowing up in a short period, but I was wondering just what kind of lifespan the Suppertrap(s) get. Anyone want to share their mileage figures on past systems? Maybe we can figure a cost per mile on the different mufflers? 800 miles into my Cobra ISDE (not turned down), and it appears to be fine, although it is louder than new, and I can see some fiberglass dust around the circlip at the end. I just feel destined to writing about its demise in the next 4K? (that is about what I rode last season). I really like the extra loud roar (even though many others don't). The tapered expansion pipe on the Cobra is a good design, and I might fashion a S.S. replacement canister when/if the Aluminum one blows out. As far as riding today, The Chicago weather was at it's best. Met up with Oak Park Alex at the Highland House on Sunday http://www.execpc.com/~print4u/highlandhouse.html He made some excuse about not riding the KLR today, and took the BMW instead. Out of hundreds of bikes, my KLR was the only one, and best in show (OK, the 3 classic Cushmans were better, but mine looked better that that Hayabusa). Keep up the good work Kenny A12 Iron Chariot South Elgin, IL ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: OlZorro@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Mirror vibration fixed Date: 02 May 1999 21:39:38 EDT As I try to get this motorcycle fit for the trip to Moab, I have finally laid the deadly vibration to rest. My mirrors were useless, in spite of having dampeners. I could ONLY identify trailing vehicles if they had red lights on. I believe that the single most important thing I did was add Lockhart-Phillips bar end weights. I've got Renthal bars, so the inner diameter is significantly smaller than the stock bars, but I've got a good friend, who's a master mechanic, and he ground down the diameter of the bar end weights until they fit. I have also done a bunch of other things that could be affecting this; to wit, changed the OEM Dunlop rear tire for the Gripster AV24, restored the stock exhaust in place of the Supertrapp E.A.R., and stuffed a thick rubber gas hose into the handlebars. I mention these things only because this science is not pure and these variables could also be having an influence. But my hunch is that it's the bar end weights. But, boy, is it great to have a more solid base. Now my throttle hand doesn't numb out. John Paul Gray Dana Point CA 94 ST1100 95 KLR650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Eberhart Subject: Re: (klr650) Nolan 100 Date: 02 May 1999 19:18:01 -0700 I was wondering if anyone has tried the Bieffe Modular 4 Helmet? It is similar to the Nolan 100 & the Shoei Duotech. Thanks Bill Eberhart K650dsn@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 4/30/99 10:44:36 PM Mountain Daylight Time, > dswass@northernnet.com writes: > > << looked at the Nolan 100 helmet today seems like it's pretty decent but I > couldn't quite get the knack of opening the chin bar up very easy is it > a pain in the rump or after a while do you get it figured out also how > quite is the helmet? >> > > After a while, you get the hang of it. It is not as quiet as some, but I > wear earplugs all the time anyway. > > Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Alex Jomarron Subject: (klr650) Riding the BMW Date: 02 May 1999 19:43:18 -0700 (PDT) Kenny obviously didn't include the ENTIRE story about riding the BMW in lieu of the KLR to the Highland House. Does he mention the major league cute woman I was with? Nooooooooooooooooooo! ;-) It was our first date, I'm impressed she wanted to go riding. So the choice was made. 2 up comfort on the BMW!!! Now if I can get her to fly out to Anchorage...................... === Alex Jomarron Oak Park, IL USA _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeff Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #355 Date: 02 May 1999 20:45:56 -0600 Hi group, All joking aside. Man what a joke. Too bad though. I guess I'll just keep it serious on this list and forget sharing with potential friends. However, I got some great replies. I guess this is my formal apology for sending the Boo(b)ed beer joke. No more jokes folks. BTW, I used ShimCalc to calculate the correct shims for my 743 mile KLR. I'm going to the dealer first to see if I can scrounge (can I say scrounge here?) around in his junk box (can I say junk box?)? I couldn't help myself. That was a great edition of the digest! Wow, are you folks verbal and fun too! -- Jeff, NM, A13 & '74 TR5T Triumph Adventurer (A Triumph that could tractor) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Karl Raupp" Subject: (klr650) Got the bike! Date: 02 May 1999 23:07:42 -0700 Well, I picked up my KLR on Friday afternoon. Love it! I just got back from a long ride today and I'm ready for the 1st service already ;) This is a FUN bike. Today I put over 550 km's on it alone. My wrists are sore and my butt is still vibrating ;) For my ride today I went for a ride and took a bunch of gravel roads here and there. Saw Emu 'farms' (surprisingly, lots of them), went by a farm that had a whole whack of fence down and rode by a couple of cows on the roadside, saw an ostrich farm, found a small town by the lake that's not on my map but had a very cozy feeling marina, ripped by a Virago-type-bike rider on a gravel road (bwaaaaahahahhhahaaaa! Why didn't he wave? bwwaaaahhhahhaahaa!!!!) and even met a fellow rider who is craving a KLR for himself. Great range on this bike as far as fuel is concerned. One question I do have, is it normal for t