This is the first of a couple of posts to familiarize those of you who are thinking about attending the Big Creek Conclave this summer with the area, a little of the history, and things you might need to know. (I'll ask Jack to put this up at the Conclave page, with any additions he'd like to make.)
If some of this sounds crammed with ifs, maybes, and possibilities--well....that's the nature of a visit to the Idaho back country. Sometimes a person simply has to play the hand as it's dealt.
I've described how you get to Big Creek, but here's some of what you'll find when you get there:
A couple of miles south of the airstrip/ranger station/campground where we'll be meeting, you'll pass through the defunct mining town of Edwards Burg. There are a few summer cabins there, and there may or may not be anyone around. After you get to the meeting area, you'll see the ranger station on the left, the airstrip straight ahead, and the campground on the right. There may or may not be someone at the ranger station, depending upon whether or not they're out on patrol. If they're on patrol, they usually pack out on mules and are gone for a week or so.
Also on the left, you'll notice the Big Creek Lodge. This isn't anything too fancy, but was built in the twenties as a staging area and hunting camp. There are several rooms in the place, and a couple of small cabins. It may or may not be open this year--it was closed when we were up there last time, because the owner had been killed in a plane wreck and everything was consequently unsettled. I used to know a guy who knew the old owner, so I could sometimes get ahold of him to find out about accomodations. That isn't the case anymore. I understand (third hand) that it was purchased from the owner's family by someone or other, but whether they're going to reopen, I don't know. And there's really no way to find out, because the former owner's widow doesn't seem to know who's bought the place, really, and there's no local number here in Boise. And there aren't any phones at Big Creek. And right now, there's no one up there to answer them anyway even if there *were* phones.
So--(long breath here) *plan to camp*, bring your gear, and if the lodge is open when we get there and you're so inclined, you can talk to whoever is there about accomodations.
In the past, the Big Creek Lodge did serve meals on an ad hoc basis, but forget menus. If they were fixing it and you wanted it, they'd feed you. If you didn't like what they had and wanted something else, too bad. They emphatically did *not* take credit cards, debit cards, checks, or e-cash.
The place has gas lights, and there's no electricity.
I'll likely head up to Big Creek a couple of weeks before the Conclave to scout things out and see what's what, so at that time I'll have some better information about what's going on (if anything) with the lodge. I'll also do a late-breaking road and fishing report at that time. (If anyone wants to shoot up there with me for the scouting trip, I'll be glad of the company.)
Bring your camping gear and everything you'll need or want in the way of food, drink, clothing, etc. There isn't anywhere to buy anything within 2 hours of the place. No gasoline either. Best bets for "last chance" stops for stocking up are at McCall or Cascade. You can buy stuff at Yellowpine, but it'll be expensive. Bring appropriate clothing and bedding--it'll get fairly warm during the day, but the nights are cold. It probably won't snow while we're there, but that's as far as I want to go as a weather prognosticator.
I always throw a couple of "space blankets" and a light rain parka into my day pack. Beats being miserable if you're caught out in the rain. The "space blanket" comes in handy for other stuff as well. A couple of years ago, some friends and I had to stop and rescue a damfool gearhead out of the East Fork. He'd been rocketing down the road out of McCall on his 4-wheeler and dumped his sorry butt into the river. Quite pitiful, actually--he'd managed to crawl up on the shoulder of the road, and was lying there, bloody and wet, for the next passerby to find. That'd be us. We wrapped him in "space blankets", treated him for shock and possible head injury, and 2/3's of us went off to find The Law in Yellowpine. Which we did, despite the fact that the annual whoop-de-doo, wing-ding, and drunken brawl known as the Yellowpine Harmonica Festival was in full swing......
Oh...nevermind.
Anyway, I guess the guy probably lived, because I never heard otherwise.
Bring "space blankets".
Communications? Well--you probably won't get cell phone coverage up at Big Creek unless you're bouncing off a satellite, since it's locked in by the Salmon River Mountains on all sides. There aren't any land lines. Communication has always been by shortwave radio out of the ranger station or the lodge, but this is iffy for the reasons I already mentioned. So--if communications is a concern, be advised. Internet access? Modem port? Har-dee-har.
People frequently ask about wild animals. First of all, there aren't many snakes, because it's too high. Too high for rattlers, and just high enough to see Rubber Boas, which are sort of amusing alpine serpents, and nonpoisonous. There are plenty of coyotes, who will sometimes come right into camp to disturb Jack's slumber midst the rosy-fingered dawn. Quite a few cougars around, but you'll probably never see any. Bobcats. Black bears, but no grizzlies this far west. Lots of elk. Mule deer. Moose. Maybe some wolves if a pack is running in the area at the time. None of them are any bother to speak of, although a black bear did try (unsuccessfully, it turns out) to taste a camper over on the Middle Fork Salmon a few years ago.
We try to make the BCC pretty casual (it's a fishin' trip, after all) so if you decide to come, just show up--no reservations required. Glad to welcome you. Come early or stay late if you want to hike in for a full expedition to the Middle Fork (35 miles one way) or a trip of your own invention with the campground as a base. The "official" dates of the conclave are August 13-16th.
Topographic maps of the area are available through the Forest Service, McCall Ranger District. Call them at (208) 634-0400, and ask for the Frank Church Wilderness North Half, Frank Church Wilderness South Half, or both. Big Creek's on the North Half.
up to start of general background
First, there are no direct approaches from the east. You have to come in from the west. The nearest approach from the east is north of the wilderness areas over U.S. 12 through northcentral Idaho, and thence to McCall south of there via Hwy. 55.
Approach #1: From Hwy 55 into McCall, take the route over the East Fork of the South Fork Road (really). The road to Yellowpine. This starts on the eastern side of town. Don't worry--we're not talking major metropolitan area here, so you'll find it. It's a nice, broad, smooth gravel road going east into Yellowpine, so it's not a major problem. It goes along the East Fork of the South Fork and the Secesh River. At Yellowpine, follow the signs north to Profile Gap and Big Creek. The last 25 miles is fairly rough, narrow, and disconcerting to the altitudinally challenged. Take it slow, otherwise you might pop a couple of tires. That last bit will take around two hours. The whole thing's about 5 hours out of Boise.
Approach #2: From Hwy 55 into Cascade, go to the north end of town and take the right-hand road going east, marked to Warm Lake. Near Warm Lake (around 25 miles in on this paved road) you'll hit the South Fork Road headed north, also paved. Nice new road, and highly recommended. Very scenic as well. That'll take you into Yellowpine, where you'll have to take the final 25-mile bit to Profile Gap and Big Creek mentioned in Approach #1. No help for it. About five hours out of Boise.
Approach #3: From Hwy 55 into Cascade, go to the north end of town and take the right-hand road going east, marked to Warm Lake. A few miles past Warm Lake, you'll hit the Johnson Creek Road. It parallels the creek all the way up, and it's also very scenic. The road is hardpan and rutted, and somewhat infested with logging trucks. Personally, I don't think it's so bad, but I like to refer to it as Lewis's Bane. The Johnson Creek Road also ends up in Yellowpine, so when you get there, you'll have to take the same bit to Profile Gap and Big Creek mentioned in Approach #1. About 5 hours out of Boise.
Approach #4: NOT RECOMMENDED. YOU WILL BE SO, SO, SORRY!!!! . On the northwest side of McCall, off Hwy. 55, take the Warren Wagon Road north and east to Burgdorf and beyond, over Goose Creek Summit, not Profile, and thence down into Big Creek. It is deceptively easy at first. This route is very long and roundabout, also extremely primitive and frightening, and there are no habitations, no services, no hope. There are sheer drops into unsympathetic canyons of vasty stone where your bones may whiten within your rusting vehicle for millenia to be discovered by Future Archeaologists. There are reticulating segues over jittery talus slopes. There are lethal boulder deadfalls here and there. Bring a winch. It's a most nasty road. About eight to twelve hours out of Boise, if you're lucky.
So there you have it. Any questions?
start of directions
start of document
Regards,
George O. Jacox
Boise, Idaho
City of Trees