Utah alpine skiing information and tips... focused on Alta and Snowbird
last updated by Steve Corbató (corbato __AT__ alumni.rice.edu) at: Sun Jan 27 19:22:09 MST 2008
I've updated this page for ski visitors to Salt Lake City during the 2007-08 season. This page is originally derived from a Web site designed for a ski trip that we organized during the Joint Techs workshop in Salt Lake City in February 2005.
During most of ski season, Utah is on Mountain Standard Time (MST = GMT-7h) - two hours behind New York and one hour ahead of California. Utah does observe Daylight Savings Time.
Pointers to more information...
Ski rental and equipment sales locations
Obviously, the most expedient, but clearly not the least expensive,
way to rent skis is just to patronize the ski shops at the base of all
the resorts. For a one or two day stay, this may be the easiest thing
to do.
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Introduction to Alta
As background, I've skied Alta almost 100 times over the last 16 years
and over 30 times last year. I'm not an expert skier, and there are
many challenging black runs at Alta that I haven't skied and probably
never will...
I think the best word that describes Alta is throwback. It was one of
the first ski resorts in the U.S. -- built on top of an old silver
mining town -- before World War II and the subsequent ski boom kicked
off by veterans of the Army's 10th Mountain Division. The area, which
remains under private and largely local ownership, is steadfastly
oriented towards skiing. In many ways, Alta shuns the ambiance
factors that have crept into the other top areas around the country.
Of course, Alta has restaurants, bars, hotels, and ski shops, but all
are separately owned. So the real focus of the resort remains on
skiing and teaching. The resort draws from a strong, loyal base -
both locally and globally - that comes back year after year. For
example, it's not unheard of to meet a Nobel Laureate in the lunch
line. In this context, Alta's continued refusal to acknowledge the
inevitable demographic reality of snowboarding is not that surprising.
The Alta resort actually is divided into two areas by a high north-south
ridgeline. These two regions are connected at the top by a
bidirectional pass/traverse (between the tops of the Sugarloaf and Collins
lifts) and at the bottom by a rope tow across the flats. We'll park
at Albion Base, which serves the higher/eastern area, which has
terrain suitable for beginners through experts. The western area
accessed from Wildcat Base, which we'll pass on the drive up, is
geared towards intermediate skiers and above.
From Albion, you can reach the Sunnyside (triple), Cecret (double),
Supreme (triple), and Sugarloaf (quad) lifts; the older Albion lift
shown on the map at the base usually isn't operated now. The Wildcat
side is served by the new Collins (quad) and the shorter Wildcat lifts
(double). If you've skied Alta before this year, you'll notice that
the upgraded Collins lift, which is the second detachable quad at
Alta, has replaced both the shorter lift on the lower part of the
mountain as well as the higher Germania lift. As a result, it's now
possible to go from the bottom to the top on the Collins side in about
seven minutes.
I've found the relative difficulty of skiing any particular run at
Alta varies greatly with the amount of fresh powder and the age of the
underlying base. After a deep powder dump, some black runs can feel
like blues. Due to an unusual predominant storm track from the
southwest, Alta has not had as many good powder days this year. While
the base is very deep, it is somewhat hardened due to a relative lack
of snow in late January. However, there's a line commonly heard on
the lifts at Alta that probably best sums up the current state of the
snow: "A bad day at Alta is far better than a good day skiing in the
East."
In all likelihood, everyone's first ride of the day will be up the
Sunnyside lift from Albion Base. From there, our paths will diverge.
Beginners
Most of the green runs at Alta are accessed from the Sunnyside and the
nearby Cecret lifts. The first timers will likely start out on
Crooked Mile and Patsey Marley -- long touring runs to the left of
Sunnyside. Eventually, they'll move up to the green runs accessed
from the shorter Cecret (pronounced "secret") lift and then consider
the blue runs reached from both the Supreme and Sugarloaf lifts.
Intermediate terrain
After taking the Sunnyside lift, intermediate skiers might consider
first going up the Sugarloaf lift to the right (this saves having to
take Cecret to reach Supreme). Taking Devil's Elbow down from the top
or considering the short Sugar Bowl shot (an easier black unless
heavily moguled) will yield several options on the lower part of this
area (Razor Back, Roller Coaster). A black run off Sugarloaf that
advanced intermediates might consider is Extrovert, which follows the
lower part of the Sugarloaf lift down the hill. From Sugarloaf, you
can access both the Supreme lift (by taking Devil's Elbow down and
following the Supreme Access signs) or the Collins lift on the other
side of the mountain (by sliding down to the gap at Germania Pass).
From the Supreme lift, there are several good blue runs - Rock & Roll,
3 Bears, and Big Dipper - that can be accessed by following the cat
track to the right of the lift. To view the extensive tree damage
caused by a massive in-bounds avalanche on a day when the resort was
closed last month, I'd recommend at least one shot down Rock & Roll.
On the other side of the resort served by the Collins and Wildcat
lifts, intermediate skiers can opt for the direct Main Street, Mambo,
and the lower part of the Ballroom bowl. The lower part of the
Collins main drag can get congested at times - especially the
Corkscrew section, and there are easier options if one continues down
the mountain.
Advanced areas
The upper reaches of Alta served by the Supreme, Sugarloaf, and
Collins lifts have a number of black runs and areas, some of which
require hiking and/or traversing to access. For starters, I'd
recommend the following black runs: Challenger and #9 Express off
Supreme, Extrovert and Glory Hole off Sugarloaf, and Spring Valley
and Sunspot off Collins. Particularly, on a sunny day, the high,
steep bowl traversed by Sunspot can be a lot of fun. Many
advanced/expert skiers successively work their way out the High
Traverse off the Collins lift towards Alf's High Rustler - the
steepest, long run at Alta.
Two off-the-beaten path areas that I would recommend are Catherine's
Area (to the left of the Supreme lift) and Devil's Castle (to the left
of the Sugarloaf lift). Catherine's provides an in-bounds (i.e.,
patrolled and avalanche controlled), near-backcountry experience in a
wooded canyon near Catherine's Pass (leading to Big Cottonwood
Canyon). It requires hiking about 50-100' vertical feet and then
traversing for 1,000-2,000 yards depending on the shot selected. If
you're in good shape and want to try a long, steep bowl, I'd recommend
the extended hike and traverse to Devil's Castle, which is open ~50%
of the time on average. Keep in mind that access to both the
Catherine's and Devil's Castle areas closes at 3p.
The older Wildcat lift is good for accessing some nice black slots on
the lower part of the mountain and is usually uncrowded.
Scenery at Alta
Three recommendations for taking in views at Alta include:
Snowbird
As disclosure, I've skied Snowbird about 10% as many times as Alta.
While Snowbird has more of a destination resort feel than Alta, it can
provide some extremely challenging skiing - most of which can be
directly accessed from a lift. If you pay extra, you can access the
tram which goes directly to the top of Hidden Peak. I'd generally
only recommend this option for advanced and expert skiers. The others
can work their way up to the top (e.g., the large bowl served by the
Little Cloud lift and the steep Peruvian Cirque for experts) via the
lifts over the course of the day. Intermediate skiers usually opt for
runs off the Mid-Gad, Gad-2, and Gadzoom lifts on the western part of
the mountain. On the other side of the ridge line (reached from the
tram, the Little Cloud lift, or Alta with a dual-area pass), Snowbird
recently opened the Mineral Basin area, which has some nice,
sun-exposed bowls. Note that the runs at Snowbird drain into four
base areas, each of which is served by frequent shuttle bus stops.
All information above is subject to change. YMMV! Please e-mail me with any errors or outdated details.
Steve Corbató
(corbato __AT__ alumni.rice.edu)
Major northern Utah ski areas - general information
Other sources for ski information
Some additional details
(originally written for 2005 ski day at Alta)
Alta offers beginning and intermediate group lessons each morning and
afternoon. The morning adult lessons gather at 10 a.m. The
ski school is located next to the ticket office at the Albion base (where
we'll park).
hits since 12 March 2006