Re: MtMan-List: Old CVA Pistols

[hawknest4@juno.com (michael pierce)]

old fox---
you gave him a lot of good info--and concure it can be done---think you
should sit back and look----try the common sense approach--- at just
getting a new barrel made by a barrel maker---rifled pistol barrels new
are less than 40.00 and they usually come with a breach---a smooth bore
barrel could be made on a lathe in less than a hr and would be true and
smooth on the inside---on the drilling what you will get is a lot of
cutting marks and its awful hard to get out and make them shoot
properly---by the time he does the stuff you was speaking of he will have
over half a day work in the barrel---I think a replacement barrel would
be a lot cheeper and easier in the long run---all he would have to do is
file the tang to fit the hole and drill a toutch hole for the flint
lock---contact me off line or give me a call and i will see what we can
do to get him a replacement barrel---he will have a hell of a time
getting the CVA breach plug out without adding heat---and you know my
feelings about adding heat to a rifle barrel---
=+=
hawk
michael pierce
854 glenfield dr.
palm harbor florida 34684     e-mail:   hgawknest4@juno.com

On Mon, 26 Oct 1998 17:10:13 EST ThisOldFox@aol.com writes:
>Chris Sega writes:
>
>> It was one of the ones marked Jukar and I
>>  wish I still had that barrel.  Overall the quality of CVA guns is 
>poor,
>>  but occasionally you get a barrel that will shoot good.  Not just
>>  tolerable, but VERY good.  If I had to take one part from a CVA gun 
>it
>>  would be the barrel, and I'd throw everything else away.
>
>Chris,
>I didn't see anyone answer your original question, so I will give it a 
>shot.
>People often stray from the topic at hand.
>
>Take that 5" CVA barrel and remove the breech.  The size of the 
>breechplug
>will determine how much you can ream it out.  You cannot go larger 
>than the
>threads of the breechplug, unless you want to rethread the breech and 
>install
>a larger breechplug.
>
>There is a product on the market called a Unibit.  It is a tapered 
>step drill
>with cutting edges every 1/16th of an inch, and it goes up to 1/2"  
>You will
>also have to get a bit extension for it.  Since the bit is tapered, it 
>is
>self-centering, and will progressively cut through the barrel.  It 
>must be
>done on a drill press, to get the proper cutting pressure and control. 
> Once
>you have run the bit through the barrel, you will have a smoothbore 
>barrel of
>50 caliber.
>
>Now, you can either get a small brake cylinder hone, or a wooden dowel 
>with
>sandpaper on it, and polish the inside of the bore.  VOILA.....you 
>have a 5"
>smoothbore pistol barrel.  They ain't all that accurate anyhow, are 
>they?
>
>For a little added effect, file and polish the top flats of the 
>barrel, until
>you have a half round barrel, and file all the flats for the last inch 
>of the
>front of the barrel.  With the proper nosecap, or inletting, you now 
>have a
>faux round smoothbore barrel for your pistol.
>
>It's not a lot of work.  Also, if you can obtain a CVA flint lock, you 
>can
>replace the percussion lock in your existing stock, and it only takes 
>about a
>half hour.  Remove the percussion drum, and make a touch-hole liner 
>from a 10
>X (?) metric bolt.  However, if you have a snail breech, then you 
>cannot do
>this.
>
>It is a fun conversion and only takes a few hours, if you have the 
>drill
>press.
>
>OldFox
>
>

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