Re: MtMan-List: Old CVA Pistols

[Chris Sega <chrissega1@powernet.net>]

Hey!  Thanks for the info.  The reason I wanted to change to a smoother is to
have a 54 cal so I do not have to carry different roundball etc.  Changing a
rifled barrel to a smootbore seems on second thought to be a lot of work for
a gun that may not perform and after all is said and done might be more
costly than buyin a barrel.  Maybe I'll buy a kit.
Your most disobediant and onry' hivernant.
Sega


michael pierce wrote:

> old fox---
> you gave him a lot of good info--and concure it can be done---think you
> should sit back and look----try the common sense approach--- at just
> getting a new barrel made by a barrel maker---rifled pistol barrels new
> are less than 40.00 and they usually come with a breach---a smooth bore
> barrel could be made on a lathe in less than a hr and would be true and
> smooth on the inside---on the drilling what you will get is a lot of
> cutting marks and its awful hard to get out and make them shoot
> properly---by the time he does the stuff you was speaking of he will have
> over half a day work in the barrel---I think a replacement barrel would
> be a lot cheeper and easier in the long run---all he would have to do is
> file the tang to fit the hole and drill a toutch hole for the flint
> lock---contact me off line or give me a call and i will see what we can
> do to get him a replacement barrel---he will have a hell of a time
> getting the CVA breach plug out without adding heat---and you know my
> feelings about adding heat to a rifle barrel---
> =+=
> hawk
> michael pierce
> 854 glenfield dr.
> palm harbor florida 34684     e-mail:   hgawknest4@juno.com
>
> On Mon, 26 Oct 1998 17:10:13 EST ThisOldFox@aol.com writes:
> >Chris Sega writes:
> >
> >> It was one of the ones marked Jukar and I
> >>  wish I still had that barrel.  Overall the quality of CVA guns is
> >poor,
> >>  but occasionally you get a barrel that will shoot good.  Not just
> >>  tolerable, but VERY good.  If I had to take one part from a CVA gun
> >it
> >>  would be the barrel, and I'd throw everything else away.
> >
> >Chris,
> >I didn't see anyone answer your original question, so I will give it a
> >shot.
> >People often stray from the topic at hand.
> >
> >Take that 5" CVA barrel and remove the breech.  The size of the
> >breechplug
> >will determine how much you can ream it out.  You cannot go larger
> >than the
> >threads of the breechplug, unless you want to rethread the breech and
> >install
> >a larger breechplug.
> >
> >There is a product on the market called a Unibit.  It is a tapered
> >step drill
> >with cutting edges every 1/16th of an inch, and it goes up to 1/2"
> >You will
> >also have to get a bit extension for it.  Since the bit is tapered, it
> >is
> >self-centering, and will progressively cut through the barrel.  It
> >must be
> >done on a drill press, to get the proper cutting pressure and control.
> > Once
> >you have run the bit through the barrel, you will have a smoothbore
> >barrel of
> >50 caliber.
> >
> >Now, you can either get a small brake cylinder hone, or a wooden dowel
> >with
> >sandpaper on it, and polish the inside of the bore.  VOILA.....you
> >have a 5"
> >smoothbore pistol barrel.  They ain't all that accurate anyhow, are
> >they?
> >
> >For a little added effect, file and polish the top flats of the
> >barrel, until
> >you have a half round barrel, and file all the flats for the last inch
> >of the
> >front of the barrel.  With the proper nosecap, or inletting, you now
> >have a
> >faux round smoothbore barrel for your pistol.
> >
> >It's not a lot of work.  Also, if you can obtain a CVA flint lock, you
> >can
> >replace the percussion lock in your existing stock, and it only takes
> >about a
> >half hour.  Remove the percussion drum, and make a touch-hole liner
> >from a 10
> >X (?) metric bolt.  However, if you have a snail breech, then you
> >cannot do
> >this.
> >
> >It is a fun conversion and only takes a few hours, if you have the
> >drill
> >press.
> >
> >OldFox
> >
> >
>
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