At the town of Independence Missouri on the 4th of April 1834 I joined an expedition fitted out for the Rocky Mountains and Mouth of the Columbia River, by a Company formed in Boston under the name and style of the Columbia River Fishing and trading Company. The same firm has fitted out a Brig of two hundred tons burthen, freighted with the nessesary assortment of merchandise for the Salmon and Fur Trade, with orders to sail to the mouth of the Columbia River, whilst the land party, under the direction of Mr. Nathaniel J. Wyeth, should proceed across the Rocky Mountains and unite with the Brig's Company in establishing a Post on the Columbia near the Pacific. Our party consisted of forty men engaged in the service accompanied by Mess Nutall and Townsend, Botanists and Ornithologists with two attendants; likewise Rev's Jason and Daniel Lee Methodist Missionaries with four attendants on their way to establish a Mission in Oregon: which brot. our numbers (including six independent uppers) to fifty Eight men. From the 23 to the 27th of April we were engaged in arranging our packs and moving to a place about 4 Miles from Independence. On the morning of the 28th we were all equipped and mounted hunter like: about forty men leading two loaded horses each were marched out in double file with joyous hearts enlivened by anticipated prospects: led by Mr. Wyeth a persevering adventurer and lover of Enterprise whilst the remainder of the party with twenty head of extra horses and as many cattle to supply emergencies brot. up the rear under the direction of Capt. Joseph Thing an eminent navigator and fearless son of Neptune who had been employed by the Company in Boston to accompany the party and measure the route across the Rocky Mountains by Astronomical observation.

We travelled slowly thru the beautiful verdant and widely ex-tended prairie untill about 2 clk P. M. and encamped at a small grove of timber near a spring. 29th We took up our march and travelled across a large and beautifully undulating prairie intersected by small streams skirted with timber intermingled with shrubbery untill the 3rd of May when we arrived at the Caw or Kanzas River near the residence of the U S agent for those Indians.

The Caw or Kanzas Indians are the most filthy indolent and degraded sett of human beings I ever saw. They live in small oval huts 4 or 5 feet high formed of willow branches and covered with Deer Elk or Buffaloe skins. On the 4th of May we crossed the River and on the 5th resumed our march into the interior, travelling over beautiful rolling prairies and Encamping on small streams at night untill the 10th when we arrived at the River Platte.

We followed up this River to the forks, then forded the South fork and travelled up the north untill the 1st day of June when we arrived at Laramy's fork of Platte; where is the first perceptible commencement of the Rocky Mountains we crossed this fork and travelled up the main River untill night and encamped. The next day we left the River and travelled across the Black hills nearly paralell with the general course of the Platte untill the 9th of June when we came to the River again and crossed it at a place called the Red Butes (high mountains of Red Rock from which the River issues). The next day we left the River on our left hand and traveled a northwest direction, and stopped at night on a small spring branch nearly destitute of wood or shrubbery. The next day we arrived at a stream running to the Platte called Sweet Water, this we ascended to a rocky mountainous country untill the 15th of June then left it and crossed the divide between waters of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans: and encamped on Sandy Creek a branch running into Green River which flows into the Colorado of the West. The next day moved down Sandy WNW direction and arrived at Green river on the 18th of June.Here we found some white Hunters who informed us that the grand rendezvous of Whites and Indians would be on a small western branch of the River about 20 miles distant, in a South West direction. Next day June 20th we arrived at the destined place. Here we met with two companies of trappers and Traders: One is a branch of the "American Fur Company," under the direction of Mess Dripps and Fonanell: The other is called the "Rocky Mountain Fur Company" The names of the partners are Thomas Fitzpatrick, Milton Sublett and James Bridger. The two companies consist of about six hundred men, including men engaged in the service, White, Half Breed and Indian Fur Trappers. This stream is called Ham's fork of Green River. The face of the adjacent country is very mountaneous and broken except in the small alluvial bottoms along the streams, it abounds with Buffaloe, Antelope, Elk and Bear, and some few Deer along the Rivers. Here Mr Wyeth disposed of a part of his loads to the Rocky Mountain Fur Company and on on the 2d of July we renewed our march towards the Columbia River. After leaving Ham's Fork we took across a high range of hills in a NW direction and fell on to a stream called Bear River which emptied to the Big Salt Lake. This is a beautiful country. the river which is about 20 yards wide runs through large fertile bottoms bordered by rolling ridges which gradually ascended on each side of the river to the high ranges of dark and lofty mountains upon whose tops the snow remains nearly the year round. We travelled down this river N West about 15 miles and camped opposite a Lake of fresh water about 60 miles in circumference which outlets into the river on the west side. Along the west border of this Lake the country is generally smooth ascending gradually into the interior and terminates in a high range of mountains which nearly surrounds the Lake approaching close to the shore on the East. The next day (the 7th) we travelled down this river and on the 8th encamped at a place called the Sheep Rock so called from a point of the mountain terminating at the river bank in a perpen-dicular high rock: the river curves around the foot of this rock and forms a half circle which brings its course to the S. W from whence it runs in the same direction to the Salt Lake about 80 miles distant. The Sheep occupy this prominent elevation (which overlooks the surrounding country to a great extent) at all seasons of the year.

On the right hand or East side of the river about 2 miles above the rock is 5 or 8 mineral Springs some of which have precisely the taste of soda water when taken up and drank immediately others have a sour, sulperous taste: none of them have any outlet but boil and bubble in small holes a few inches from the surface of the ground. This place which now looks so lonely, visited only by the rambling Trapper or solitary Savage will doubtless at no distant day be a resort for thousands of the gay and fashionable world, as well as Invalids and spectators. The country immediately adjacent seems to have all undergone volcanic action at some remote period the evidences of which, however still remains in the deep and frightful chasms which may be found in the rocks, throughout this portion of country which could only have been formed by some terrible convulsion of nature. The ground about these springs is very strongly impregnated with Sal Soda There is also large beds of clay in the vicinity of a snowy whiteness which is much used by the Indians for cleansing their clothes and skins, it not being any inferior to soap for cleansing woollens or skins dressed after the Indian fashion. On the 11th (July) we left Bear river and crossed low ridges of broken country for about 15 miles in a N East direction and fell on to a stream which runs into Snake river called Black Foot. Here we met with Capt. B. L. Bonnenvill with a party of 10 or 12 men He was on his way to the Columbia and was employed killing and drying Buffaloe meat for the journey. The next day we travelled in a west direction over a rough mountaneous country about 25 miles and the day following after travelling about 20 miles in the same direction we emerged from the mountain into the great valley of Snake River on the 16th - We crossed the valley and reached the river in about 25 miles travel West. Here Mr. Wyeth concluded to stop build a Fort & deposit the remainder of his merchandise: leaving a few men to protect them and trade with the Snake and Bonnack Indians. On the 18th we commenced the Fort which was a stockade 80 ft square built of Cotton wood trees set on end sunk 2 1/2 feet in the ground and standing about 15 feet above with two bastions 8 ft square at the opposite angles. On the 4th of August the Fort was completed; And on the 5th the "Stars and Stripes" were unfurled to the breeze at Sunrise in the center of a savage and uncivilized country over an American trading Post.

The next day Mr Wyeth departed for the mouth of the Columbia River with all the party excepting twelve men (myself included) 10 who were stationed at the Fort. I now began to experience the difficulties attending a mountaineer we being all raw hands excepting the man who had charge of the Fort and a Mullattoe: the two latter having but very little experience in hunting game with the Rifle: and altho the country abounded with game still it wanted experience to kill it. On the 12th of August myself and 9 others (the Mullattoe included) started from the Fort to hunt Buffaloe. We proceeded up the stream running into Snake River near the Fort called Ross's fork in an East direction about 25 miles, crossed a low mountain in the same direction about 5 miles and fell on to a stream called Portneuf: here we found several large bands of Buffaloe we went to a small spring and encamped. I now prepared myself for the first time in my life to kill meat for my supper with a Rifle. I had an elegant one but had little experience in useing it, I however approached the band of Buffaloe crawling on my hands and knees within about 80 yards of them then raised my body erect took aim and shot at a Bull: at the crack of the gun the Buffaloe all ran off excepting the Bull which I had wounded, I then reloaded and shot as fast as I could untill I had driven 25 bullets at, in and about him which was all that I had in my bullet pouch whilst the Bull still stood apparently riveted to the spot I watched him anxiously for half an hour in hopes of seeing him fall, but to no purpose, I was obliged to give it up as a bad job and retreat to our encampment without meat: but the Mullattoe had better luck he had killed a fat cow whilst shooting 15 bullets at the band. The next day we succeeded in killing another cow and two Bulls, we butchered them took the meat and returned to the Fort. On the 20th of August we started again to hunt meat: we left the Fort and travelled abot 6 miles when we discovered a Grizzly Bear digging and eating roots in a piece of marshy ground near a large bunch of willows. The Mullattoe approached within 100 yards and shot him thro. the left shoulder he gave a hideous growl and sprang into the thicket. The Mullattoe then said "let him go he is a dangerous varmint" but not being acquainted with the nature of these animals I determined on making another trial, and persuaded the Mullatto to assist me we walked round the bunch of willows where where the Bear lay keeping close together, with our Rifles ready cocked and presented towards the bushes untill near the place where he had entered, when we heard a sullen growl about 10 ft from us, which was instantly followed by a spring of the Bear toward us; his enormous jaws extended and eyes flashing fire. Oh Heavens! was ever anything so hideous? We could not retain sufficient presence of mind to shoot at him but took to our heels separating as we ran the Bear taking after me, finding I could out run him he left and turned to the other who wheeled about and discharged his Rifle covering the Bear with smoke and fire the ball however missing him he turned and bounding toward me - I could go no further without jumping into a large quagmire which hemmed me on three sides, I was obliged to turn about and face him he came within about 10 paces of me then suddenly stopped and raised his ponderous body erect, his mouth wide open, gazing at me with a beastly laugh at this moment I pulled trigger and I knew not what else to do and hardly knew that I did this but it accidentally happened that my Rifle was pointed towards the Bear when I pulled and the ball piercing his heart, he gave one bound from me uttered a deathly howl and fell dead: but I trembled as if I had an ague fit for half an hour after, we butchered him as he was very fat packed the meat and skin on our horses and returned to the Fort with the trophies of our bravery, but I secretly determined in my own mind never to molest another wounded Grizzly Bear in a marsh or thicket. On the 26th of Septr. our stock of provisions beginning to get short 4 men started again to hunt buffaloe; as I had been out several times in succession I concluded to stay in the Fort awhile and let others try it. This is the most lonely and dreary place I think I ever saw; not a human face to be seen excepting the men about the Fort. The country very smoky and the weather sultry and hot. On the 1st day of Octr. our hunters arrived with news which caused some little excitement among us. they had discovered a village of Indians on Blackfoot Creek about 25 miles from the Fort in a north East direction, consisting of about 60 Lodges. They had rode Green horn like into the village without any ceremony or knowledge of the friendly or hostile disposition of the Indians, neither could they inform us to what Nation they belonged. It happened however that they were Snake friendly to the Whites and treated our men in a hospitable manner - After remaining all night with them three of the Indians accompanied our hunters to the Fort: From these we gathered (thro. the Mullatto who could speak a little of their language) much desired information. The next day myself and the Mullatto started to the Village where we arrived about sun half an hour high we were conducted to the chiefs Lodge where we dismounted and cheerfully saluted by the chief who was called by the Whites "Iron wristbands" and by the Indians "Pah-da-her-wak-un-dah", or the hiding bear. Our horses were taken to grass and we followed him into his Lodge when he soon ordered supper to be prepared for us. He seemed very much pleased when we told him the Whites had built a trading post on Snake River.

He said the Village would go to the Fort in three or four days to trade. We left them next morning loaded with as much fat dried Buffaloe meat as our horses could carry which had been given as a gratuity: we were accompanied on our return to the Fort by six of the men. On the 10th the Village arrived and pitched their Lodges within about 200 yards of the Fort. I now commenced learning the Snake Language and progressed so far in a short time that I was able to understand most of their words employed in matters of trade. Octr 20th a Village of Bonnaks consisting of 250 Lodges arrived at the Fort from these we traded a considerable quantity of furs, a large supply of dried meat, Deer, Elk and Sheep skins etc. - In the meantime we were employed building small log houses and making other nessary preparations for the approaching winter

Novr. 5th Some White hunters arrived at the Fort who had been defeated by the Blackfeet Indians on Ham's Fork of Green River. One of them had his arm broken by a fusee ball but by the salutary relief which he obtained from the Fort he was soon enabled to return to his avocations. 16th Two more White men arrived and reported that Capt. Bonneville had returned from the lower country and was passing within 90 miles of the Fort on his way to Green River. 20th four White more arrived and reported that a party of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company consisting of 60 men under the direction of one of the Partners (Mr. Bridger) were at the forks of Snake River about 60 miles above the Fort where they intended to pass the winter. We were also informed that the two Fur Companies had formed a coalition. Decr. 15th The ground still bare but frozen and the weather very cold. 24th Capt. Thing arrived from the Mouth of the Columbia with 10 men fetching supplies for the Fort. Times now began to have a different appearance. the Whites and Indians were very numerous in the valley all came to pass the winter on Snake River. On the 20th of Jany 12 of Mr Bridger's men left his camp and came to the Fort to get employment They immediately made an engagement with Capt. Thing to form a party for hunting and trapping On the 15 of March the party was fitted out consisting of 10 trappers and 7 Camp keepers (myself being one of the latter) under the direction of Mr. Joseph Ga1e a native of the City of Washington. Mch. 25th we left the Fort and travelled about 6 miles N. E. and encamped on a stream running into the river about 12 Miles below the Fort, called Port neuf. The next day we followed up this stream in an Easterly direction about 15 miles here we found the snow very deep from this we took a south course in the direction of Bear River our animals being so poor and the traveling so bad we had to make short marches and reached Bear River on the 1st day of April. The place where we struck the River is called Cache Valley so called from its having been formerly a place of deposit for the Fur Traders. The country on the north and west side of the river is somewhat broken uneven and covered with wild Sage. The snow had disappeared only upon the South sides of the hills. On the South and East sides of the river lay the valley but it appeared very white and the river nearly overflowing its banks insomuch that it was very difficult crossing: and should we have been able to have crossed, the snow would have prevented us gaining the foot of the mountain on the East side of the valley. This place being entirely destitute of game we had to live chiefly upon roots for ten days. On the 11th of April we swam the river with our horses and baggage and pushed our way thru. the snow accross the Valley to the foot of the mountain: here we found the ground bare and dry. But we had to stay another night without supper. About 4 oclk the next day the meat of two fat Grizzly Bear was brought into Camp. Our Camp Kettles had not been greased for some time: as we were continually boiling thistle roots in them during the day: but now four of them containing about 9 gallons each were soon filled with fat bear meat cut in very small pieces and hung over a fire which all hands were employed in keeping up with the utmost impatience: An old experienced hand who stood six feet six and was never in a hurry about anything was selected by a unanimous vote to say when the stew (as we called it) was done but I thought with my comrades that it took a longer time to cook than any meal I ever saw prepared, and after repeated appeals to his long and hungry Stewardship by all hands he at length consented that it might be seasoned with salt and pepper and dished cut to cool. But it had not much time for cooling before we commenced operations: and all pronounced it the best meal they had ever eaten as a matter of course where men had been starving. The next morning I took a walk up a smooth spur of the mountain to look at the country. This valley commences about 90 miles below the Soda Springs the river running west of south enters the valley thro. a deep cut in the high hills: after winding its way thro. the North and West borders of the Valley: turns due West and runs thro. a deep Kanyon of perpendicular rocks on its way to the Salt Lake. The valley lies in a sort of semi circle or rather an oblong. On the South and East of about 20 miles in length by 5 in diameter and nearly surrounded by high and rugged mountains from which flow large numbers of small streams crossing the valley and emptying into the river. There are large quantities of Beaver and Otter living in these streams but the snow melting raises the water so high that our Trappers made but slow progress in catching them. We stopped in this valley until the 20th of April then moved to the South East extremity and made an attempt to cross the mountain. The next day we travelled up a stream called Rush Creek in an East direction thro. a deep gorge in the mountain for about 12 miles which then widened about a mile into a smooth and rolling country here we staid the following day we then took a N E course over the divide and travelled about 12 Miles thro. Snow two or three feet deep and in many places drifts to the depth of 6 or 8 ft. deep. At night we encamped on a small dry spot of ground on the South side of a steep mountain where there was little or no vegetation excepting wild sage. Sometime after we had stopped it was disclosed that one man was missing a young English Shoemaker from Bristol, we found he had been seen last dismounted and stopping to drink at a small branch at some distance before we entered snow. On the following morning I was ordered to go back in search of him. I started on the snow which was frozen hard enough to bear me and my horse. I went to the place where he was last seen and found his trail which I followed on to a high mountain when I lost it among the rocks. I then built a large fire shot my gun several times and after hunting till near sunset without hopes of finding him I gave it up and went to the edge of the snow and stopped for the night. The next morning I started at day light in a gallop on the snow traversing Mountain and Valley smoothed up with snow so hard frozen that a galloping horse scarcely left a foot print: About noon I arrived on a high ridge which over looked the Snake Lake and the Valley South West of it which had been apparently clear of snow for some length of time. At the Southern extremity of the Lake lay the Camp about 2 miles distant NE of me. I descended the Mountain and entered the Camp. On the 27th of April we travelled down the West side of the Lake to the outlet into Bear river. here we found about 300 Lodges of Snake Indians: we encamped at the village and staid 3 days, in the meantime our uppers were engaged hunting Beaver in the river and small streams We then crossed the river and ascended a branch called Thoma's Fork in a north direction about 10 Mls. the next day we started across the Mountain in a North direction and after travelling about 5 Mls. we discovered a large Grizzly Bear about 200 yards ahead of us: one of our hunters approached and shot him dead on the spot. We all rode up and dismounted to butcher him: he was an enormous animal a hideous brute a savage looking beast. On removing the skin we found the fat on his back measured six inches deep. He had probably not left his winter quarters more than 2 hours as we saw his tracks on the snow where he had just left the thick forest of pines on the side of the Mountain. We put the meat on our pack animals and travelled up the Mountain about 5 miles and encamped. The next morning we started about 2 hours before day and crossed the Mountain on the snow which was frozen hard enough to bear our animals and at 10 oclk AM we found ourselves travelling down a beautiful green vale which led us to the Valley on Salt River where we encamped about 2 oclk P.M

This river derives its name from the numerous salt springs found on its branches it runs thro. the middle of a smooth valley about 40 miles long and 10 wide emptying its waters into Lewis fork of Snake River its course being almost due North. This is a beautiful valley covered with green grass and herbage surrounded by towering mountains covered with snow spotted with groves of tall spruce pines which from their vast elevation resemble small twigs half imersed in the snow, whilst thousands of Buffaloe carelessly feeding feeding in the green vales contribut to the wild and romantic Splendor of the Surrounding Scenery. On the 10th of May we moved down the river about 12 miles to a stream running into it on the west side called Scotts Fork. Here are some fine Salt Springs the Salt forms on the pebbles by evaporation to the depth of 5 or 6 inch in a short time after the snow has dissappeared 11th May After gathering a Supply of Salt we travelled down the river about 15 miles and encamped near the mouth of a stream on the west side called Gardners Fork. Here we met with Mr. Bridger and his party who informed us that the country around and below was much infested with Blackfeet. they had had several skirmishes with them in which they had lost a number of horses and traps and one young man had been wounded in the shoulder by a ball from a fusee. Upon the receipt of this information our leader concluded to shape his course towards the Fort. On the 14th of May we ascended Gardners fork about 15 mls. thro. a deep gorge in the high craggy mountain May 15 travelled up this stream West abt. 10 Mls. when the country opened into a valley ten miles long and 2 wide. Here we left Gardners fork which turns almost due North into the high mountain with the bend of it just cutting the north end of this valley, we travelled South about 3 miles and encamped on Blackfoot which runs into Snake river after a course of about 100 mls. Here the snow was very deep over nearly the whole plain which was surrounded by high mountains. 16th we travelled down Blackfoot which runs South West accross the Valley then turns West and runs into a deep cut in the mountain upwards of a thousand feet above above the bed of the stream the entrance of which seems barely wide enough to admit its waters. We travelled thro this Kanyon for about 10 miles when it opened into a large plain extending to the Sheep Rock on Bear river which appeared to be about 40 mls distant to the South West. There Black foot makes a sweeping curve to the South West then gradually turning to the North enters a narrow gorge of basaltic rock thro. which it rushes with impetuosity for about 15 Mls. then emerges into the great plain of Snake River 17th we travelled down this stream about 15 Mls and stopped to kill and dry Buffaloe meat sufficient to load our loose horses. On the 22d We moved down 10 mls. where we found thousands of Buffaloe Bulls and killed a great number of them as the Cows were very poor at this season of the year. May 30th We travelled down to the Plains and on the day following arrived at the Fort after travelling about 30 Mls in a South W. direction. On arriving at the Fort we learned that Capt. Thing had started in April with 12 men for the purpose of establishing a trading post on a branch of Salmon River: but had been defeated by the Blackfeet with the total loss of his outfit excepting his men and horses.

On the 10th of June a small party belonging to the Hudsons Bay Company arrived from Fort Vancouver on the Columbia River under the direction of Mr F. Ermatinger accompanied by Capt. Wm. Stewart an English half pay Officer who had passed the winter at Vancouver and was on a tour of pleasure in the Rocky Mountains. On the 12th they left Fort Hall and started for the grand rendezvous on Green River. We now began to make preperations for what the Trappers termed the "Fall Hunt" and all being ready on the 15th we started. Our party (under our former leader) consisted of 24 men 14 Trappers and 10 Camp Keepers It was the intention of our leader to proceed to the Yellow Stone Lake and hunt the country which lay in the vicinity of our route: from thence proceed to the head waters of the Missouri and Snake Rivers on our return back to Fort Hall where it was intended we should arrive about the middle of Octr. next We travelled to the mouth of Blackfoot Creek about 10 mls. 18th Up Blackfoot abt. 15 Mls. 17th Followed up this stream abt. 10 mls. farther then left it to our right and took a N E cours thro. the dry plains covered with wild sage and sand hills about 15 mls. to the foot of the mountain and encamped at a small spring which sinks in the plain soon after leaving the mountain. Here we Killed a couple of fine Bulls and took some of the best meat. 18th We crossed a low Mountain in an East direction about 12 mls. and encamped on a stream called Gray's Creek, which empties into Snake River abt. 40 mls. above Fort Hall 19th Travelled East over a rough broken Mountaneous country about 12 mls. and encamped on a small branch of the same stream. This country affords no timber excepting the quaking Asp which grows in small scrubby groves in the nooks and ravines among the hills 20th we left the waters of Gray's Creek and crossed a low place in the mountain in an East direction fell on to a small stream running into Lewis' fork - distance 10 mls. 21st travelled East following this stream to the mouth about 15 which was about 90 mls. below the mouth of Salt River. Here we were obliged to cross Lewis fork which is about 300 yds. wide and might be forded at a low stage of water, but at present was almost overflowing its banks and running at the rate of about 6 mls per hour. We commenced making a boat by sewing two raw Bulls hides together which we stretched over a frame formed of green willow branches and then dried it gradually over a slow fire during the night 22d Our boat being completed we commenced crossing our equippage and while 5 of us were employed at this a young man by the name of Abram Patterson attempted to cross on horse back in spite of all the advice and entreaty of those present his wild and rash temper got the better of his reason and after a desperate struggle to reach the opposite bank he abandoned his horse made a few springs and sunk to rise no more - he was a native of Penna. about 23 years of age. We succeeded in crossing our baggage and encamped on the East side for the night. Lewis' fork at this place is timbered with large Cotton wood trees along the banks on both sides On the East lies a valley about 28 miles long and 3 or 4 wide in an oblong shape half enclosed by a range of towering mountains which approach the river at each extremity of the valley. 23d We crossed the North point of the valley and ascended a small stream about 15 mls. NE where we encamped among the mountains thickly covered with tall pines intermingled with fallen timber 24th Crossed the mountain 12 mls. East course and descended into the South W. extremity of a valley called Pierre's hole where we staid the next day. This valley lies north & South in an oblong form abt. 90 mls long and 10 wide surrounded except on the Nth. by wild and rugged Mountains: the East range resembles Mountains piled on Mountains and capped with three spiral peaks which pierce the cloud. These peaks bear the French name of Tetons or Teats - The Snake Indians call them the hoary headed Fathers. This is a beautiful valley consisting of a Smooth plain intersected by small streams and thickly clothed with grass and herbage and abounds with Buffaloe Elk Deer antelope etc 27th We travelled to the north end of the valley and encamped on one of the numerous branches which unite at the Northern extremity and forms a stream called Pierre's fork which discharges its waters into Henry's fork of Snake River. The stream on which we encamped Bows directly from the central Teton and is narrowly skirted with Cottonwood trees closely intermingled with underbrush, on both sides. We were encamped on the South Side in a place partially clear of brush under the shade of the large Cottonwoods 28th abt 9 oclk AM we were arouse by an alarm of "Indians" we ran to our horses, All was confusion - each one trying to catch his horses. We succeeded in driving them into Camp where we caught all but 6 which escaped into the prarie: in the meantime the Indians appeared before our camp to the number of 60 of which 15 or 20 were mounted on horse back & the remainder on foot - all being entirely naked armed with fusees, bows, arrows etc They immediately caught the horses which had escaped from us and commenced riding to and fro within gunshot of our Camp with all the speed their horses were capable of producing without shooting a single gun for about 20 minutes brandishing their war weapons and yelling at the top of their voices; Some had Scalps suspended on small poles which they waved in the air. Others had pieces of scarlet cloth with one end fastened round head while the other trailed after them. After Securing my horses I took my gun examined the priming set the breech on the ground and hand on the Muzzle with my arms folded gazing at the novelty of this scene for some minutes quite unconscious of danger until the whistling of balls about my ears gave me to understand that these were something more than mere pictures of imagination and gave me assurance that these living Centaurs were a little more dangerous than those I had been accustomed to see portrayed on canvass -

The first gun was fired by one of our party which was taken as a signal for attack on both sides but the well directed fire from our Rifles soon compelled them to retire from the front and take to the brush behind us: where they had the advantage until 7 or 8 of our men glided into the brush and concealing themselves until their left wing approached within about 30 ft of them before they shot a gun they then raised and attacked them in the flank the Indians did not stop to return the fire, but retreated thro. the brush as fast as possible dragging their wounded along with them and leaving their dead on the spot. In the meantime myself and the remainder of our party were closely engaged with the centre and right. I took the advantage of a large tree which stood near the edge of the brush between the Indians and our horses: They approached until the smoke of our guns met. I kept a large German horse pistol loaded by me in case they should make a charge when my gun was empty. When I first stationed myself at the tree I placed a hat on some twigs which grew at the foot of it and would put it in motion by Kicking the twig with my foot in order that they might shoot at the hat and give me a better chance at their heads but I soon found this sport was no joke for the poor horses behind me were killed and wounded by the balls intended for me. The Indians stood the fight for about 2 hours then retreated thro the brush with a dismal lamentation. We then began to look about to find what damage they had done us: One of our comrades was found under the side of an old root wounded by balls in 3 places in the right and one in the left leg below the knee no bones having been broken. another had received a slight wound in the groin. We lost 3 horses killed on the spot and several more wounded but not so bad as to be unable to travel.

Towards night some of our men followed down the stream about a mile and found the place where they had stopped and laid their wounded comrades on the ground in a circle the blood was still standing congealed in 9 places where they had apparently been dressing the wounds. 29th Staid at the same place fearing no further attempt by the same party of Indians 30th Travelled up the main branch abt. 10 mls. July 1st Travelled to the SE extremity of the valley and encamped for the night Our wounded comrade suffered very much in riding altho. everything was done which lay in our power to ease his sufferings: A pallet was made upon the best gaited horse belonging to the party for him to ride on and one man appointed to lead the animal 2d Crossed the Teton mountain in an east direction- about 15 mls. the ascent was very steep and rugged covered with tall pines but the descent was somewhat smoother. Here we again fell on to Lewis' fork which runs in a Southern direction thro. a valley about 80 mls long then turning to the west thro. a narrow cut in the mountain to the mouth of Salt River about 30 miles. This Valley is called "Jackson Hole" it is generally from 5 to 15 mls wide: the Southern part where the river enters the mountain is hilly and uneven but the Northern portion is wide smooth and comparatively even the whole being covered with wild sage and Surrounded by high and rugged mountains upon whose summits the snow remains during the hottest months in Summer. The alluvial bottoms along the river and streams inter sect it thro. the valley produce a luxuriant growth of vegetation among which wild flax and a species of onion are abundant. The great altitude of this place however connected with the cold descending from the mountains at night I think would be a serious obstruction to growth of most Kinds of cultivated grains. This valley like all other parts of the country abounds with game.

Here we again attempted to cross Lewis' fork with a Bull skin boat July 4th Our boat being completed we loaded it with baggage and crossed to the other side but on returning we ran it into some brush when it instantly filled and sunk but without further accident than the loss of the boat we had already forded half the distance accross the river upon horse back and were now upon a other shore We now commenced making a raft of logs that had drifted on the Island on this when completed we put the remainder of our equipments about 2 oclk PM and 10 of us started with it for the other side but we no sooner reached the rapid current than our raft (which was constructed of large timber) became unmanageable and all efforts to reach either side were vaine and fearing lest We should run on to the dreadful rapids to which we were fast approaching we abandoned the raft and committed ourselves to the mercy of the current. We being all tolerable good swimmers excepting myself, I would fain have called for help but at this critical period every one had to Shift for himself fortunately I scrambled to the shore among the last swimmers. We were now on the side from whence we started without a single article of bedding except an old cloth tent whilst the rain poured incessantly. Fortunately we had built a large fire previous to our departure on the raft which was still burning

I now began to reflect on the miserable condition of myself and those around me, without clothing provisions or fire arms and drenched to the skin with the rain

I thought of those who were perhaps at this moment Celebrating the anniversary of our Independence in my Native Land or seated around tables loaded with the richest dainties that a rich independent and enlightened country could afford or perhaps collected in the gay Saloon relating the heroic deeds of our ancestors or joining in the nimble dance forgetful of cares and toils whilst here presented a group of human beings crouched round a fire which the rain was fast diminishing meditating on their deplorable condition not knowing at what moment we might be aroused by the shrill war cry of the hostile Savages with which the country was infested whilst not an article for defense excepting our butcher Knives remained in our possession -

The night at length came on and we lay down to await the events of the morrow day light appeared and we started down along the shore in hopes of finding something that might get loose from the raft and drift upon the beach - We bad not gone a mile when we discovered the raft lodged on a gravel bar which projected from the Island where it had been driven by the current - we hastened thro. the water waist deep to the spot where to our great surprise and satisfaction we found everything safe upon the raft in the same manner we had left it. we also dis- covered that the river could with some difficulty be forded on horseback at this place. Accordingly we had our horses driven accross to us packed them up mounted and crossed without further accident and the day being fair we spent the remainder of it in and the following day in drying our equippage 7th Left the river followed up a stream called the "Grosvent fork" in an East direction about 2 Mils this stream was very high and rapid in fording it we lost 2 Rifles 8th we followed the stream thro. the mountain east passing thro. narrow defiles over rocky precipices and deep gulches for 15 mls. 9th travelled up the stream about 10 Mls east then turned up a left hand fork about 8 Mls N E and encamped among the high rough mountains thickly covered with pine timber. There was not a man in the party who had ever been at this place or at the Yellow Stone Lake where we intended to go but our leader had received information respecting the route from some person at the Fort and had written the direction on a piece of paper which he carried with him They directed us to go from the place where now were due North but he said the directions must be wrong as he could discover no passage thro. the mountains to the North of us. 10th We took a narrow defile which led us in an East direction about 12 mls. on to a Stream running S. E. : This we followed down about six miles when the defile opened into a beautiful valley about 15 mls. in circumference thro. which the Stream ran in the direction above stated and entered the mountain on the East side. Here a dispute arose about the part of country we were in. Our Leader maintained that this was a branch of the Yellow Stone River but some of the Trappers had been in this valley before and knew it to be a branch of wind River pointed out their old encampments and the Beaver lodges where they had been trapping 2 years previous. But our man at the helm was inflexible, he commanded the party and had a right to call the streams by what names he pleased and as a matter of course this was called the Yellow Stone. Three of the party however called it Wind River and left us but not before one of them had given our Charge d'affairs a sound drubbing about some small matters of little importance to any one but themselves - 11th We left the stream and crossed the valley in a N E direction ascended a high point of mountain thickly covered with pines then descended over cliffs and crags crossing deep gulches among the dark forests of pines and logs until about noon when we came into a smooth grassy spot about a mile in circumference watered by a small rivulet which fell from the rocks above thro. the valley and fell into a chasm on the SE side among the pines. On the North and West were towering rocks several thousand feet high which seem to overhang this little vale - Thousands of mountain Sheep were scattered up and down feeding on the short grass which grew among the cliffs and crevices: some so high that it required a telescope to see them. Our wounded companion suffered severely by this day's travel and our director concluded to remain at this place the next day. He now began to think that these were not the waters of the Yellow Stone as all the branches ran SE. Finally he gave it up and openly declared he could form no distinct idea what part of the country we were in. 12th Myself and another had orders to mount 2 of the best mules and ascend the mountain to see if we could discover any pass to the N West of us. We left the camp and travelled in a North direction about 2 Mls. then turning to our left around a high point of perpendicular rock entered a narrow glen which led N West up the Mountain thro. this we directed our course ascending over the loose fragments of rock which had fallen from the dark threatning precipices that seemed suspended in the air above us on either side for about 5 Mls. when the ascent became so steep that we were obliged to dismount and lead our Mules After climbing about a mile further we came to large banks of snow 8 or 10 ft. deep and so hard that we were compelled to cut steps with our butcher knives to place our feet in whilst our Mules followed in the same track. These places were from 60 to 200 yards accross and so steep that we had to use both hands and feet Dog like in climbing over them We succeeded in reaching what we at first supposed to be the Summit when another peak appeared in view completely shrouded with Snow dotted here and there with a few dwarfish weather beaten Cedars. We now seated ourselves for a few minutes to rest our wearied limbs and gaze on surrounding objects near us on either hand the large bands of Mountain Sheep carelessly feeding upon the short grass and herbage which grew among the Crags and Cliffs whilst Crowds of little lambs were nimbly Skipping and playing upon the banks of snow. After resting ourselves a short time we resumed our march over the snow leaving the Mules behind. We reached the highest Summit in about a miles travel. On the top of this elevation is a flat place of about a quarter of a mile in circumference. On the West and North of us one vast pile of huge mountains crowned with snow but none appeared so high as the one on which we stood. On the South and East nothing could be seen in the distance but the dense blue atmosphere. We did not prolong our [stay] at this place for the north wind blew keen and cold as the month of January in a Northern Climate. We hurried down to where we had left the mules in order to descend to a more temperate climate before the night came on. Our next object was to find a place to descend with our Mules it being impossible to retrace our steps without the greatest danger. After hunting around Sometime we at length found a place on the NE side where we concluded to try it. We drove our mules on to the snow which being hard and slippery their feet tripped and after sliding about 300 they arrived in a smooth green spot at the foot of the declevity. We then let ourselves down by cutting steps with our butcher knives and the breeches of our guns. After travelling down out of the snow we encamped on a smooth green spot and turned our mules loose to feed At Sunset we built a large fire, eat supper and laid down to sleep. The next morning at daybreak I arose and kindled a fire and seeing the mules grazing at a short distance I filled my tobacco pipe and sat down to Smoke, presently I cast my eyes down the mountain and discovered 2 Indians approaching within 200 yards of us I immediately aroused my companion who was still sleeping, we grasped our guns and presented them upon the intruders upon our Solitude, they quickly accosted us in the Snake tongue saying they were Shoshonies and friends to the whites, I invited them to approach and sit down then gave them some meat and tobacco, they seemed astonished to find us here with Mules saying they knew of but one place where they thought mules or horses could ascend the mountain and that was in a NE direction. The small stream which was formed by the melting of the snow above us after running past where we sat rushed down a fearful chasm and was lost in spray. After our visitors had eaten and smoked we began to question them concerning their families and the country around them. They said their families were some distance below in a North Direction and that there was a large lake beyond all the snowy peaks in sight to the N. W. they also pointed out the place where we could desend the mountain and told us that this stream ran down thro. the mountain and united with a larger stream - which after running a long distance North turned toward the rising of the sun into a large plain where there was plenty of Buffaloe and Crow Indians. After getting this desired information we left these two sons of the wilderness to hunt their sheep and we to hunt our camp as we could. We travelled over a high point of rocks chiefly composed of Granite and coars Sand Stone. In many places we saw large quantities of petrifaction, nearly whole trees broken in pieces from one to three feet long completely petrified. We also saw imense pieces of rock on the top of the mountain composed of coarse sand pebbles and Sea Shells of various kinds and sizes. After crossing the Summit we fell into a defile which led a winding course down the mountain. Near the foot of this defile we found a stone jar which would contain 9 gallons neatly cut from a piece of granite well shaped and smooth After travelling all day over broken rocks fallen timber and rough country we arrived at the camp about dark 14th We raised Camp and travelled N NE over rough craggy spurs about 15 Mls. and encamped in a narrow Glen between two enormous peaks of rocks. As we were passing along over a spur of the mountain we came to a place from which the earth had slide at some previous period and left the steep inclined ledge bare and difficult to cross: our horses were obliged to place their feet in the small holes and fissures in the rock to keep themselves from sliding off an unfortunate pack horse however missed his footing and slid down the declevity to near the brink of a deep and frightful kanyon thro. which the Cataract madly dashed some hundred feet below fortunately his foot caught in some roots which projected from a crevice in rock and arrested his terrible cours until we could attach ropes to him and drag him from his perilous situation. 15th We followed the windings of the Glen East as far as we could ride and then all dismounted and walked except the wounded man who rode until the mountain became so steep his horse could carry him no longer we then assisted him from his horse and carried or pushed him to the top of the divide over the snow -

In the meantime it commenced snowing very hard - After gaining the Summit we unloaded our animals and rushed them on to the Snow on the other side which being hard they went helter skelter down to a warmer climate and were arrested by a smooth grassy spot. We then lowered the wounded man down by cords and put our saddles and baggage together on the Snow jumped on the top and started slowly at first but the velocity soon increased until we brought up tumbling heels over head on a grassy bench in a more moderate climate. Now we were down; but whether we could get out was a question yet to be Solved. Tremendous towering mountains of rocks Surrounded us excepting on the SE - where a small stream ran from the snow into a dismal chasm below. But for my part I was well contented for an eye could scarcely be cast in any direction around above or below without seeing the fat sheep gazing at us with anxious curiosity or lazily feeding among the rocks and scrubby pines. The bench where we encamped contained about 500 acres nearly level. 16th We staid at this place as our wounded comrade had suffered severely the day before. Some went down the stream to hunt a passage while others went to hunt Sheep. Being in Camp about 10 ock I heard the faint report of a rifle overhead I looked up and saw a sheep tumbling down the rocks which stopped close to where I stood but the man who shot it had to travel 3 or 4 miles before he could descend with safety to the Camp. The Sheep were all very fat so that this could be called no other than high living both as regarded altitude of position and rich provisions. 17th Travelled down the stream thro. difficult and dangerous passage about 10 mls. where we struck another branch on the left This we ascended due North about 8 mls and encamped on another green Spot near the Snow at the head of the Glen 18th We ascended the Mountain at the head of this branch and crossed the divide and descended another branch (which ran in a North direction) about 8 mls. and encamped in an enormous gorge 19th Travelled about 15 mls. down stream and encamped in the edge of a plain 20th Travelled down to the two forks of this stream about 5 mls. and stopped for the night. Here some of the trappers knew the country. This stream is called Stinking River a branch of the Bighorn which after running about 40 mls thro. the big plain enters the above river about 15 mls. above the lower Bighorn Mountain. It takes its name from several hot Springs about 5 miles below the forks producing a sulphurous stench which is often carried by the wind to the distance of 5 or 6 Mls. Here are also large quarries of gypsum almost transparent of the finest quality and also appearances of Lead with large rich beds of Iron and bituminous coal We stopped at this place and rested our animals until the 23d By this time our wounded comrade had recovered so far as to be able to hobble about on crutches. 24th We took up the right hand fork in a NW direction about 15 mls thro. a rugged defile in the mountain. 25th Travelled about 18 mls in the same direction still following the stream which ran very rapid down thro. the dense piles of mountains which are formed of Granite Slate and Sand Stone covered with pines where there is sufficient soil to support them 26th followed the stream almost due Nth. about 8 mls. and encamped where we staid the next day 28th We crossed the mountain in a West direction thro. the thick pines and fallen timber about 12 mls and encamped in a small prairie about a mile in circumference Thro. this valley ran a small stream in a North direction which all agreed in believing to be a branch of the Yellow Stone. 28th We descended the stream about 15 mls thro. the dense forest and at length came to a beautiful valley about 8 Mls. long and 3 or 4 wide surrounded by dark and lofty mountains. The stream after running thro. the center in a NW direction rushed down a tremendous canyon of basaltic rock apparently just wide enough to admit its waters. The banks of the stream in the valley were low and skirted in many places with beautiful Cottonwood groves

Here we found a few Snake Indians comprising 6 men 7 women and 8 or 10 children who were the only Inhabitants of this lonely and secluded spot. They were all neatly clothed in dressed deer and Sheep skins of the best quality and seemed to be perfectly contented and happy. They were rather surprised at our approach and retreated to the heights where they might have a view of us without apprehending any danger, but having persuaded them of our pacific intentions we then succeeded getting them to encamp with us. Their personal property consisted of one old butcher Knife nearly worn to the back two old shattered fusees which had long since become useless for want of ammunition a Small Stone pot and about 30 dogs on which they carried their skins, clothing, provisions etc on their hunting excursions. They were well armed with bows and arrows pointed with obsidian The bows were beautifully wrought from Sheep, Buffaloe and Elk horns secured with Deer and Elk sinews and ornamented with porcupine quills and generally about 3 feet long. We obtained a large number of Elk Deer and Sheep skins from them of the finest quality and three large neatly dressed Panther Skins in return for awls axes kettles tobacco ammunition etc. They would throw the skins at our feet and say "give us whatever you please for them and we are satisfied We can get plenty of Skins but we do not often see the Tibuboes" (or People of the Sun) They said there had been a great many beaver on the branches of this stream but they had killed nearly all of them and being ignorant of the value of fur had singed it off with fire in order to drip the meat more conveniently. They had seen some whites some years previous who had passed thro. the valley and left a horse behind but he had died during the first winter. They are never at a loss for fire which they produce by the friction of two pieces of wood which are rubbed together with a quick and steady motion One of them drew a map of the country around us on a white Elk Skin with a piece of Charcoal after which he explained the direction of the different passes, streams etc From them we discovered that it was about one days travel in a SW direction to the outlet or northern extremity of the Yellow Stone Lake, but the route from his description being difficult and Beaver comparatively scarce our leader gave out the idea of going to it this season as our horses were much jaded and their feet badly worn. Our Geographer also told us that this stream bed united with the Yellow Stone after leaving this Valley half a days travel in a west direction. The river then ran a long distance thro a tremendous cut in the mountain in the same direction and merged into a large plain the extent of which was beyond his geographical knowledge or conception 30th We stopped at this place and for my own part I almost wished I could spend the remainder of my days in a place like this where happiness and contentment seemed to reign in wild romantic splendor surrounded by majestic battlements which seemed to support theheavens and shut out all hostile instruders. 21st We left the valley and descended the stream by a narrow difficult path winding among the huge fragments of basaltic rock for about 12 Mls when the trail came to an end and the towering rocks seemed to overhang the river on either side forbidding further progress of man or beast and obliged us to halt for the night. About dark some of our trappers came to camp and reported one of their Comrades to be lost or met with some serious accident The next day we concluded to stop at this place for the lost man and four men went in search of him and returned at night without any tidings of him whatever It was then agreed that either his gun had bursted and killed him or his horse had fallen with him over some tremendous precipice. He was a man about 55 years of age and of 30 years experience as a hunter Our leader concluded that further search was useless in this rocky pathless and pine covered country Aug. 2d we forded the Yellow Stone with some difficulty to the South side. The river at this place is about 200 yds wide and nearly swimming to horses. a short distance below it rushes down a chasm with a dreadful roar echoing among the Mountains. After crossing we took up a steep and narrow defile in a South direction and on gaining the Summit in about 3 mls we found the country to open South and West of us into rolling prarie hills. We descended the mountain and encamped on a small stream running West 3d Travelled about 25 Mls. due West the route broken and uneven in the latter part of the day and some places thickly covered with pines. encamped at night in a valley called "Gardnr's hole" This Valley is about 40 mls in circumference surrounded except on the North and West by low piney Mountains On the West is a high narrow range of mountains running North and South dividing the waters of the Yellow Stone from those of Gallatin fork of the Missouri. We stopped in this Valley until the 20th The Trappers being continually employed in hunting and trapping beaver. 21st we crossed the mountains thro. a defile in a west direction and fell on to a small branch ofthe Gallatin Here we encamped on a small clear spot and killed the fattest Elk I ever saw. It was a large Buck the fat on his rump measured seven inches thick he had 14 spikes or branches on the left horn and 12 on the right. 22d after we had started in the morning five of our party (4 Trappers and one Camp [Keeper)] secretly dropped behind with their pack and riding horses and took a different direction forming a party of their own, but they could not be much blamed for leaving - as our fractious leader was continually wrangling with the Trappers by endeavoring to exercise his authority tyranically. we followed down this branch to the Gallatin about 10 mls. West encamped and staid the next day 24th Down the Gallatin N NW the river running between two high ranges of mountains skirted along its barks by a narrow valley. 25th left the defile and took up the Gallatin an East direction crossed the mountain and fell on to a stream running into the Yellow Stone and finding no beaver returned to the Gallatin the next day by the route we had come. 28th up the Gallatin to the place where we had struck it on the 22d 29th Took up the stream a South course about 10 mls. then left it to the left hand and proceeded about 4 mls South thro. a low pass and fell on to a branch of the Madison fork of the Missouri running south this we followed down about six miles further and encamped where we staid next day This pass is formed by the minor ranges of hills or spurs on the two high ranges of mountains on either side of us which approach towards each other and terminate in a low defile completely covered with pines except along the stream where small praries may be found thickly clothed with grass forming beautiful encampment 31st Travelled SW down the stream about 10 Mls. when we came to the "burnt hole" a prarie Valley about 80 mls in circumference surrounded by low spurs of pine covered mountains which are the sources of great number of streams which by uniting in this valley form the Madison fork Septr 1st Travelled down the stream about 12 Mls NW and encamped during a heavy snow storm This stream after leaving thevalley enters a gorge in the mountain in a NW direction. 2d We stopped in the entrance of this gorge until the 8th Travelled down about 15 mls. where the country opened into a large plain thro. which the stream turned in a sweeping curve due North 9th Crossed the Valley in a west direction travelled up a small branch and encamped about 3 miles from the river in a place with high bluffs on each side of us we had been encamped about an hour who fourteen white Trappers came to us in full gallop they were of Mr. Bridgers party who was encamped at Henry's Lake about 20 mls in a South direction and expected to arrive at the Madison the next day his party consisted of 60 white men and about 20 Flathead Indians. The trappers remained with us during the night telling Mountain "Yarns" and the news from the States. Early next morning 8 of them started down the stream to set Traps on the main Fork but returned in about an hour closely pursued by about 80 Blackfeet. We immediately secured our horses in a yard previously made for the purpose and prepared ourselves for battle. In the meantime the Indians had gained the bluffs and commenced shooting into the camp from both sides. The bluff on the East side was very steep and rocky covered with tall pines the foot approaching within 40 yds of us. On the west the bluffs were covered with thick groves of quaking asps: from these hights they poured fusee balls without mercy or even damage except killing our animals who were exposed to their fire. In the meantime we concealed ourselves in the thicket around the camp to await a nearer approach, but they were too much afraid of our rifles to come near enough for us [to] use Ammunition - we lay almost silently about 3 hours when finding they could not arouse us to action by their long shots they commenced Setting fire to the dry grass and rubbish with which we were surrounded: the wind blowing brisk from the South in a few moments the fire was converted into one circle of flame and smoke which united over our heads. This was the most horrid position I was ever placed in death seemed almost inevitable but we did not despair but all hands began immediately to remove the rubbish around the encampment and setting fire to it to act against the flames that were hovering over our heads: this plan proved successful beyond our expectations Scarce half an hour had elapsed when the fire had passed around us and driven our enemies from their position. At length we saw an Indian whom we supposed to be the Chief standing on a high point of rock and give the signal for retiring which was done by taking hold of the opposite corners of his robe lifting it up and striking it 3 times on the ground. The cracking of guns then ceased and the party moved off in silence. They had killed two horses and one mule on the spot and five more were badly wounded. It was about 4 oclk in the afternoon when the firing ceased. We then saddled and packed our remaining animals and started for Mr. Bridger's camp, which we found on the Madison at the place where we had left it. Our party was now so disabled from the previous desertion of Men and loss of animals that our leader concluded to travel with Mr Bridger until we should arrive at the forks of Snake river where the latter intended to pass the winter. On the 11th Myself with 5 others returned to the battle ground to get some traps which had been set for beaver on the stream above our encampment whilst the main camp was to travel down the river about 5 mls. and stop the remainder of the day to await our return We went for the traps and returned to the camp about [8] olk. P.M. 12th At sunrise an alarm of "Blackfeet!" echoed thro. the Camp. In a moment all were under arms and enquiring "where are they" when `twas replied "On the hills to the West": I cast a glance along the high range of hills which projected toward the river from the mountain and discovered them standing on a line on a line on a ridge in their center stood a small pole and from it waved an American flag displaying a wish to make peace about 30 of us walked up within about 300 yards of their line when they made a signal for us to halt and send two men to meet the same number of theirs and treat for peace. Two of the whites who could speak the Blackfoot language were appointed to negotiate while the respective lines sat upon the ground to await the event. After talking and smoking for half an hour the negotiators separated and returned to their respective parties Our reported them to be a party of Pagans a small tribe of Blackfeet who desired to make peace with the whites and for that purpose had procured the flag from an American trading post on the Missouri they were 45 [in] number well armed and equipped. We gave them a general invitation to our Camp which they accepted with a great deal of reluctance when they were informed of the battle on the 10th but arriving at the camp and receiving friendly treatment their fears in a manner subsided. After Smoking several rounds of the big pipe the Chief began to relate his adventures. He said he had been in several battles with the whites and some of the party were at the battle in "Pierre's hole" on the 28th of June last in which there was four Indians killed on the spot and eight died of their wounds on the way to the village but he denied having any knowledge of the late battle but said there was several parties of the Blood Indians lurking about the mountains around us They stopped with us until nearly night and all left except one who concluded to remain. 13th We left the Madison Fork with Mr Bridger's Camp and ascended a small branch in a West direction through the mountains about 20 Mls. and encamped on the divide After we had encamped a Frenchman started down the mountain to set his traps for beaver contrary to the advice and persuasion of his companions he had gone but a few miles when he was fired upon by a party of Blackfeet killed and scalped. 14th Travelled down the mountain about 16 Mls NW. and encamped on a stream called "Stinking Creek" which runs into the Jefferson fork of the Missouri. After we had encamped some trappers ascended the stream but were driven back by the Blackfeet Others went below and shared the same fate from another party but escaped to the camp unhurt 15 Moved down this stream about 12 Mls Nth. This part of the country is comprised of high bald hills on either side of the stream which terminate in rough pine covered mountains. 16 Travelled down the stream NW about 8 Mls The Valley opened wider as we descended and large numbers of Buffaloe were scattered over the plains and among the hills 17th Down abt. 10 Mls NW. the mountain on the West descends to a sloping spur from thence to a plain 18 We did not raise camp and about noon some Flathead Indians arrived and told us their village was on a branch of the Jefferson called Beaver Head Creek about 30 mls in a west direction The next day we went to their village, which consisted of 180 lodges of Flatheads and Pend Oreilles (or hanging ears) Here we found a trading party belonging to the Hudsons Bay Co They were under the direction of Mr. Francis Ermatinger who was endeavoring to trade every Beaver skin as fast as they were taken from the water by the Indians. 20th the whole Cavalcade moved "en mass" up the stream about 12 Mls SW. and encamped with another Village of the same tribes consisting of 130 lodges. From this place is a large plain slightly undulating extending nearly to the junction of the three forks of the Missouri The Flatheads are a brave friendly generous and hospitable tribe strictly honest with a mixture of pride which exalts them far above the rude appellation of Savages when contrasted with the tribes around them. They boast of never injuring the whites and consider it a disgrace to their tribe if they are not treated like brothers whilst in company with them. Larceny, Fornication, and adultery are severely punished. Their Chiefs are obeyed with a reverence due to their station and rank. 23d We left the Village in company with Mr. Bridger and his party and travelled SE accross the plain about 8 Mls. to the foot of the hills and encamped at a spring. 24th Travelled about 18 mls SE over high rolling hills beautifully clothed with bunch grass - 25th Travelled in the same direction 12 Mls and encamped in a smooth valley about 80 Mls in circumference surrounded on the North & East by a high range of mountains at the NE extremity is a marshy lakeabout 12 Mls. in circumference from this flows the head stream of the Jefferson fork of the Missouri which curves to the SW thro. the valley and enters the low mountain on the west thro. a narrow cut still continuing the curve encircling a large portion of country previous to its arrival at the junction 26 Crossed the valley about 16 Mls. and encamped on the East side. This Valley as a Mountaineer would say was full of Buffaloe when we entered it and large numbers of which were killed by our hunters we repeatedly saw signs of Blackfeet about us to waylay the Trappers. 27th We stopped at this place to feast on fat Buffaloe 28th Crossed the Mountain SE about 12 Mls. and encamped on "Camas Creek" at the NW extremity of the great plain of Snake River Here the leader of our party desired me to go to Fort Hall and get some horses to assist them to the Fort as we were dependent on Mr Bridger for animals to move camp 30th After getting the nessary information from our leader I started contrary to the advice and remonstrances of Mr. Bridger and his men rather than be impeached of cowardice by our austocratical director. I travelled according to his directions South untill dark amid thousands of Buffaloe. The route was very rocky and my horses feet (he not being shod) were worn nearly to the quick which caused him to limp very much. After travelling about 30 Mls. I lay down and slept soundly during the night. The next morning I arose and proceeded on my journey down the stream about 9 oclk I came to where it formed a lake where it sank in the dry sandy plain from this I took a SE course as directed towards a high Bute which stood in the almost barren plain by passing to the East of this Bute I was informed that it was about 25 Mls to Snake River

In this direetion I travelled untill about two hours after dark my horse had been previously wounded by a ball in the loins and tho. nearly recovered before I started yet travelling over the rocks and gravel with tender feet and his wound together had nearly exhausted him. I turned him loose among the rocks and wild Sage and laid myself down to meditate on the follies of myself and others: In about two hours I fell asleep to dream of cool spring rich frosts and cool shades In the morning I arose and looked around me my horse was near by me picking the scanty blades of sunburned grass which grew among the sage. On surveying the place I found I could go no further in a South or East direction as there lay before me a range of broken basaltic rock which appeared to extend for 5 or 6 miles on either hand and 5 or 6 Mls wide thrown together promiscuously in such a manner that it was impossible for a horse to cross them. The Bute stood to the SW about 10 Mls. which I was informed was about half the distance from "Camas Lake" to Snake river. I now found that either from ignorance or some other motive less pure our Leader had given me directions entirely false and came to the conclusion to put no further confidence in what he had told me, but return to the Lake I had left as it was the nearest water I knew of this point being settled I saddled my horse and started on foot leading him by the bridle and travelled all day in the direction of the Lake over the hot sand and gravel. After daylight disappeared I took a star for my guide but it led me South of the Lake where I came on to several large bands of Buffaloe who would start on my near approach and run in all directions It was near midnight when I laid down to rest I had plenty of provisions but could not eat Water! Water was the object of my wishes travelling for two long days in the hot burning sun without water is by no means a pleasant way of passing the time I soon fell asleep and dreamed again of bathing in the cool rivulets issuing from the snow topped Mountains. About an hour before day I was awakened by the howling of wolves who had formed a complete circle within 30 paces of me and my horse at the flashing of my pistol however they soon dispersed. At daylight I discovered some willows about 3 miles distant to the West where large numbers of Buffaloe bad assembled apparently for water In two hours I had dispersed the Brutes and lay by the water side. After drinking and bathing for half an hour I travelled up the stream about a mile and lay down among some willows to sleep in the shade whilst my horse was carelessly grazing among the bushes The next day being the 4th I lay all day and watched the Buffaloe which were feeding in immense bands all about me 5th I arose in the morning at sunrise and looking to the SW I discovered the dust arising in a defile which led thro. the mountain about 4 Mls distant The Buffaloe were carelessly feeding all over the plain as far as the eye could reach. I watched the motions of the dust for a few minutes when I saw a body of men on horse back pouring out of the defile among the Buffaloe. In a few minutes the dust raised to the heavens The whole mass of became agitated producing a sound resembling distant thunder. At length an Indian pursued a Cow close to me alongside of her he let slip an arrow and she fell. I immediately recognized him to be a Bonnack with whom I was acquainted. On discovering myself he came to me and saluted me in Snake which I answeeed in the same tongue. He told me the Village would come and encamp where I was. In the meantime he pulled off some of his Clothing and hung it on a Stick as a signal for the place where his squaw should set his lodge he then said he had killed three fat cows but would kill one more and So saying he wheeled his foaming charger and the next moment disappeared in the cloud of dust. In about a half an hour the Old Chief came up with the village and invited me to stop with him which I accepted. While the squaws were putting up and stretching their lodges I walked out with the Chief on to a small hillock to the view the field of slaughter the cloud of dust had passed away and the prarie was covered with the slain upwards of a Thousand Cows were killed without burning one single grain of gunpowder. The Village consisted off 332 lodges and averaged six persons young and old to each lodge They were just returned from the salmon fishing to feast on fat Buffaloe. After the lodges were pitched I returned [to] the village This Chief is called "Aiken-lo-ruckkup" (or the tongue cut with a flint) he is the brother of the celebrated horn chief who was killed in a battle with the Blackfeet some years ago: and it is related by the Bonnaks without the least scruple that he was killed by a piece of Antelope [horn] the only manner in which he could [be] taken as he was protected by a Supernatural power from all other harm. My worthy host spared no pains to make my situation as comfortable as his circumstances would permit. The next morning I took a walk thro. the Village and found there was fifteen lodges of Snakes with whom I had formed an acquaintance the year before. On my first entering the Village I was informed that two white Trappers belonging to Mr. Wyeths party had been lately killed by the Bonnaks in the lower country and that the two Indians who had killed or caused them to be killed were then in this village. The Old Chief had pointed them out to me as we walked thro. the village and asked me what the white men would do about it I told him they would hang them if they caught them at the Fort He said it was good that they deserved death for said he "I believe they have murdered the two white men to get their property and lost it all in gambling" for continued he "ill gained wealth often flies away and does the owner no good". "But" said he "you need not be under any apprehensions of danger whilst you stop with the village." The squaws were employed cutting and drying meat for two days at the end of which the ground on which the village stood seemed covered with meat scaffolds bending beneath their rich loads of fat Buffaloe meat 13th My horse being somewhat recruited I left the Village with a good supply of boiled Buffaloe tongues prepared by my land lady and the necessary directions and precautions from the Old Chief. I travelled due east about 25 Mls which brot. me to the forks of Snake River when approaching to the waters I discovered fresh human footprints. I immediately turned my horse and rode out from the river about a quarter of a mile intending to travel parralel with the river in order to avoid any straggling party of Blackfeet which might be secreted in the timber growing along the banks

I had not gone far when I discovered three Indians on horse back running a Bull towards me: I jumped my horse into a ravine out of sight and crawled up among [the] high Sage to watch their movements as they approached nearer to me I saw they were Snakes and showed myself to them. They left the Bull and galloped up to me after the usual salutation I followed them to their Village which was on the East bank of the river. The village consisted of 15 lodges under the direction of a chief called "Comb Daughter" by the Snakes and by the whites the "Lame Chief." He welcomed me to this lodge in the utmost good humor and jocular manner [I] had ever experienced among Indians and I was sufficiently acquainted with the Snake language to repay his jokes in his own coin without hesitation. I passed the time very agreeablyly for six days among those simple but well fed and good humored Savages. On the 19th learning that Bridger was approaching the forks and the party of hunters to which I had belonged had passed down the river towards the Fort I mounted my horse - started down the river and arrived at the Fort next day about noon the distance being about 60 Mls S. S. W. When I arrived the party bad given up all hopes of ever seeing me again and had already fancied my lifeless body lying on the plains after having been scalped by the savages. The time for which myself and all of Mr. Wythe's men were engaged had recently expired so that now I was independent of the world and no longer to be termed a "Greenhorn" At least I determined not to be so green as to bind myself to an arbitrary Rocky Mountain Chieftain to be kicked over hill and dale at his pleasure. Novr. 16th Capt. Thing arrived from the Columbia with supplies for the Fort. In the meantime the men about the Fort were doing nothing and I was lending them a hand until Mr. Wyeth should arrive and give us our discharge. Decr. 20th Mr. Wyeth arrived when I bid adieu to the "Columbia River Fishing and Trading Company" and started in company with 15 of my old Messmates to pass the winter at a place called "Mutton Hill" on Port Neuf, about 40 Mls. SE from Fort Hall. Mr Wyeth had brot. a new recruit of Sailors and Sandwich Islanders to supply our places at the Fort. We lived on fat mutton until the snow drove us from the Mountain in Feby. Our party then dispersing I joined Mr. Bridgers Company who were passing the winter on Blackfoot Creek about 15 Mls. from the Fort where we staid until the latter part of March. Mr. Bridger's men lived very poor and it was their own fault for the valley was crowded with fat Cows when they arrived in Novr. but instead of approaching and killing their meat for the winter they began to Kill by running on horse back which bad driven the Buffaloe all over the Mountain to the head of the Missouri and the snow falling deep they could not return during the winter They killed plenty of Bulls but they were so poor that their meat was perfectly blue yet this was their only article of food as bread or vegetables were out of the question in the Rocky Mountains except a few kinds of roots of spontaneous growth which the Indians dig and prepare for food. It would doubtless be amusing to a disinter[est]ed spectator to witness the process of cooking poor Bull meat as practiced by this camp during the winter of 1835-6 On going thro. the camp at any time in the day heaps of ashes might be seen with the fire burning on the summit and an independent looking individual who is termed a Camp Keeper sitting with a "two year old club" in his hand watching the pile with as much seeming impatience as Philoctete did the burning of Hercules at length poking over the ashes with his club he rolls out a ponderous mass of Bull beef and hitting it a rap with his club it bounds 5 or 8 feet from the ground like a huge ball of gum elastic: this operation frequently repeated divests [it] of the ashes adhering to it and prepares it for carving He then drops his club and draws his butcher knife calling to his comrades "Come Major, Judge, Squire, Dollar Pike, Cotton, and Gabe wont you take a lunch of Simon?"each of whom acts according to the dictates of his appetite in accepting or refusing the invitation. I have often witnessed these Philosophical and independent dignitaries collected round a Bulls ham just torn from a pile of embers good humoredly observing as they hacked the hugh slices from the lean mass that this was tough eating but that it was tougher where there was none and consoling themselves with a promise to make the fat cows suffer before the year rolled round. The camp remained on Blackfoot untill the latter part of March, when the Winter broke up and we commenced travelling and hunting Beaver. We left winter quarters on the 28th and travelled along the foot of the mountain in a north direction to Lewis' fork and ascended it SE to the mouth of Muddy Creek where we arrived on the 7th of April. Here Mr. Bridger ordered a party of 12 Trappers to branch off to the right and hunt the head waters of Grays and Blackfoot creeks. I was included in the number and felt anxious to try my skill in Trapping 10th We set off leaving the main camp to proceed leisurely to Salt [River] Valley and from thence to the mouth of Thomo's fork of Bear river where we were instructed to meet them. We ascended Muddy and crossed the Mountain on to Grays creek here we found the snow disappearing very fast and the streams so much swollen that we made but slow progress in taking Beaver We traversed the numerous branches of this stream to and fro setting traps when the water would permit until the 25th of April when we left the waters of Grays creek and travelled about 40 Mls in a SW direction from where we had struck it, crossed a low mountain about 8 Mls and fell on to Blackfoot This we ascended two days and hunted until the 5th of May when three of our party were waylaid and fired upon by a party of Blackfeet whilst ascending the stream thro. a Kanyon one of them was slightly wounded in the side by a fusee ball and all escaped to the Camp and reported the Indians to be about 25 in number 7th of May we left Blackfoot and crossed the Mountain SW thro. deep snow and thick pines [and] at night fell into the valley on Bear river and encamped about 25 Mls above the Soda springs 8th Travelled up Bear river to Thomos fork where we found the main Camp likewise Mr. A Dripps and his party, consisting of about 60 whites and nearly as many half breeds who were encamped with 400 lodges of Snakes and Bonnaks and 100 lodges of Nez Perces and flatheads 9th We all camped together in the beautiful plain on Bear River above the mouth of Smith's fork 11th The whole company of Indians and whites left Bear river and travelled to Ham's fork, excepting Mr Dripps and a small party who went round to Blacks fork of Green river to get some furs and other articles deposited there in the ground After reaching Ham's fork the Indians concluded to separate in different directions as we were in too large a body and had too many horses to thrive long together They were instructed to be at the mouth of horse creek on Green River about the 1st of July as we expected supplies from the U S about that time. We laid about on the branches of Green river until the 28th of June when we arrived at the destined place of Rendezvous On the 1st of July Mr. Wyeth arrived from the mouth of the Columbia on his way to the U S with a small party of men 3d The outfit arrived from St. Louis consisting of 40 men having 20 horse carts drawn by mules and loaded with supplies for the ensueing year They were accompanied by Dr Marcus Whitman and lady Mr H H Spaulding and lady and Mr. W H Gray Presbyterian missionaries on their way to the Columbia to establish a mission among the Indians in that quarter. The two ladies were gazed upon with wonder and astonishment by the rude Savages they being the first white women ever seen by these Indians and the first that had ever penetrated into these wild and rocky regions. We remained at the rendezvous until the 16 of July and then began to branch off into parties for the fall hunt in different directions. Mr Bridgers party were destined as usual for the Blackfoot country it contained most of the American trappers and amounted to 60 men. I started with a party of 15 Trappers and 2 Camp Keepers ordered by Mr Bridger to proceed to the Yellow Stone lake and there await his arrival with the remainder of his party. July 24th we set off and travelled up Green river 26 [miles] in a North direction 25th Up Green river 15 Mls in the same direction, then left it to our right and took up a small branch still keeping a Nth. course. The course of the river where we left it turns abruptly to the East and heads in a high craggy mountain covered with snow about 30 Mls distant. This mountain is a spur of the Wind river range and is commonly called the "Sweetwater Mountain" as that stream heads in its southern termination -

After leaving the river we travelled about 4 Mls to the head of the branch and encamped in a smooth grassy plain on the divide between Green and Snake Rivers which head within 200 paces of each other at this place 26th Travelled North about 15 Mls. descending a small stream thro. a rough mountaneous country covered with pine trees and underbrush and encamped on the Gros vent fork. 27th We descended the Gros vent fork to "Jacksons hole" about 20 Mls. general course West. 28th We followed Lewis' fork thro. the Valley crossing several large streams coming in from the East we then left the valley and followed the river about 6 Mls. thro. a piece of rough piney country and came to Jacksons Lake which is formed by the river. We encamped at the outlet at a small prarie about a mile in circumference. This lake is about 25 Mls long and 3 wide lying Nth & South bordered on the east by pine swamps and marshes extending from 1 to 2 Mls from the Lake to the spurs of the Mountain On the SW. stands the 3 Tetons whose dark frightful forms rising abruptly from the Lake and towering above the clouds casts a gloomy shade upon the waters beneath whilst the water rushes in torrents down the awful precipices from the snow by which they are crowned The high range of Mountains on the west after leaving the Tetons slope gradually to the Nth and spread into low piney mountains. This place like all other marshes and swamps among the mountains is infested with innumerable swarms of horse flies and musketoes to the great annoyance of man and beast during the day but the cold air descending from the mountains at night compells them to seek shelter among the leaves and grass at an early hour. Game is plenty and the river and lake abounds with fish. After hunting the streams and marshes about this lake we left it, on the 7th of August and travelled down Lewis' fork about 4 Mls to the second stream running into it on the east side below the Lake. This we ascended about 12 Mls East and encamped among the pines close to where it emerged from a deep kanyon in the mountain 8th We took accross a high spur thickly covered with pines intermingled with brush and fallen timber in a NE direction for about 12 Mls where we fell into a small valley on a left hand branch of the stream we had left 9th We took up this branch due North about 10 Mls. when it turning short to the right we left it and ascended a narrow Glen keeping a Nth course sometimes travelling thro. thick pines and then crossing small green spots thro. which little streams were running from the remaining banks of snow lying among the pines in the shade of the mountains for about 6 Mls when we came to a smooth prarie about 2 Mls long and half a Ml. wide lying east and west surrounded by pines. On the South side about midway of the prarie stands a high snowy peak from whence issues a Stream of water which after entering the plain it divides equally one half running West and the other East thus bidding adieu to each other one bound for the Pacific and the other for the Atlantic ocean. Here a trout of 12 inches in length may cross the mountains in safety. Poets have sung of the "meeting of the waters" and fish climbing cataracts but the "parting of the waters and fish crossing mountains" I believe remains unsung as yet by all except the solitary trapper who sits under the shade of a spreading pine whistling blank-verse and beating time to the tune with a whip on his trap sack whilst musing on the parting advice of these waters. 10th We took down the East branch and followed it about 8 Mls to the Yellow Stone river which is about 80 yds wide and at the shallowest place nearly swimming to our horses. To this place it comes from a deep gorge in the mountains enters a valley lying Nth & South about 15 Ms. long and 3 wide thro. which it winds its way slowly to the Nth. thro swamps and marshes and calmly reposes in the bosom of the Yellow Stone Lake. The South extremity of this valley is smooth and thickly clothed with high meadow grass surrounded by high craggy mountains topped with snow. We stopped at this place trapping until the 3d of August, when we travelled down the lake to the inlet or southern extremity. 16th Mr. Bridger came up with the remainder of the party 18th The whole camp moved down the East shore of the Lake thro. thick pines and fallen timber about 18 Mls. and encamped in a small prarie 19th continued down the shore to the Outlet about 20 Mls. and encamped in a beautiful plain which extends along the Northern extremity of the Lake. This valley is interspersed with scattering groves of tall pines forming shady retreats for the numerous Elk and Deer during the heat of the day. The Lake is about 100 Mls. in circumference bordered on the East by high ranges of Mountains whose spurs terminate at the shore and on the west by a low bed of piney mountains its greatest width is about 15 Mls lying in an oblong form south to north or rather in the shape of a crescent. Near where we encamped were several hot springs which boil perpetually. Near these was an opening in the ground about 8 inches in diameter from which hot steam issues continually with a noise similar to that made by the steam issuing from a safety valve of an engine and can be heard 5 or 6 Mls distant I should think the steam issued with sufficient force to work an engine of 30 horse power. We encamped about 3 ock. PM. and after resting our horses about an hour seven of us were ordered to go and hunt some streams running into the Yillow Stone some distance below the Lake. We startid from the Camp in an East direction crossed the plain and entered the pines and after travelling about an hour thro. dense forests we fell into a broken tract of country which seemed to be all on fire at some distance below the surface. It being very difficult to get around this place we concluded to follow an Elk Trail accross it for about half a mile the treading of our horses sounded like travelling on a plank platform covering an imense cavity in the earth whilst the hot water and steam were spouting and hissing around us in all directions. As we were walking and leading our horses accross this place the horse that was before me broke thro. the crust with one hind foot and the blue steam rushed forth from the hole. The whole place was covered with a crust of Limestone of a dazzling whiteness formed by the overflowing of the boiling water. Shortly after leaving this resemblance of the infernal regions we killed a fat buck Elk and camped at Sunset in a smooth grassy spot between two high shaggy ridges watered by a small stream which came tumbling down the gorge behind us. As we had passed the infernal regions we thought as a matter of course these must be a commencement of the Elysian fields and accordingly commenced preparing a feast. A large fire was soon blazing encircled with sides of Elk ribs and meat cut in slices supported on sticks down which the grease ran in torrents The repast being over the jovial tale goes round the circle the peals of loud laughter break upon the stillness of the night which after being mimicked in the echo from rock to rock it dies away in the solitary [gloom]. Every tale puts an auditor in mind of something similar to it but under different circumstances which being told the "laughing part" gives rise to increasing merriment and furnishes more subjects for good jokes and witty sayings such as Swift never dreamed of Thus the evening passed with eating drinking and stories enlivened with witty humor until near Midnight all being wrapped in their blankets lying around the fire gradually falling to sleep one by one until the last tale is "encored" by the snoring of the drowsy audience The Speaker takes the hint breaks off the sub- ject and wrapping his blanket more closely about him soon joins the snoring party - The light of the fire being supersed by that of the Moon just rising from behind the Eastern Mountain a sullen gloom is cast over the remaining fragments of the feast and all is silent except the occasional howling of the solitary wolf on the neighboring mountain whose senses are attracted by the flavors of roasted meat but fearing to approach nearer he sits upon a rock and bewails his calamities in piteous moans which are re-echoed among the Mountains. Aug 20th Took over a high rugged mountain about 12 Mls NE and fell into the Secluded Valley of which I have described in my last years journal. Here we found some of those independent and happy Natives of whom I gave a description we traded some Beaver and dressed Skins from them and hunted the streams running into the valley for several days There is something in the wild romantic scenery of this valley which I cannot nor will I, attempt to describe but the impressions made upon my mind while gazing from a high eminence on the surrounding landscape one evening as the sun was gently gliding behind the western mountain and casting its gigantic shadows accross the vale were such as time can never efface from my memory but as I am neither Poet Painter or Romance writer I must content myself to be what I am a humble journalist and leave this beautiful Vale in obscurity until visited by some more skillful admirer of the beauties of nature who may chance to stroll this way at some future period 25th left the Valley and travelled down to the Yellow Stone and crossed it at the ford 26th Crossed the Mountain in a SW direction and fell on to Gardners fork. Here myself and another set some traps and stopped for the night whilst the remainder of the party went in different directions to hunt setting 27th Crossed the mountain SW to "Gardners hole" where we found the main camp. 28th Camp left "Gardners hole" and travelled North to the Yellow Stone about 20 Mls. 29th The whole party followed the river out of the mountain in to the great Yellow Stone plain distance about 12 Mls. The Trappers then scattered out in small parties of from 2 to 5 in number leaving Mr. Bridger with 25 Camp Keepers to travel slowly down the river. Myself and another travelled down the river about 40 Mls NE to a branch called "25 Yard river" This we ascended about 25 Mls in a Nth direction where we remained trapping several days The country lying on this stream is mostly comprised of high rolling ridges thickly clothed with grass and herbage and crowded with imense bands of Buffaloe intermingled with bands of antelope Sepr. 1st We returned to the Camp which we found at the mouth of this stream where we found also 10 Delaware Indians who had joined the camp in order to hunt Beaver with greater security. 2d Travelled down the Yellow Stone river about 20 Mls. This is a beautiful country the large plains widely extending on either side of the river intersected with streams and occasional low spurs of Mountains whilst thousands of Buffaloe may be seen in almost every direction and Deer Elk and Grizzly bear are abundant. The latter are more numerous than in any other part of the mountains. Owing to the vast quantities of cherries plums and other wild fruits which this section of country affords In going to visit my traps a distance of 3 or 4 mils early in the morning I have frequently seen 7 or 8 standing about the clumps of Cherry bushes on their hind legs gathering cherries with surprising dexterity not even deigning to turn their Grizzly heads to gaze at the passing trapper but merely casting a sidelong glance at him without altering their position 3d I left the camp on the Yellow Stone and started accross a low and somewhat broken tract of country in a SE direction to a stream called the Rosebud accompanied by another Trapper 5th The Camp came to us on the Rosebud and the next day passed on in the same direction. Whilst myself and comrade stopped behind to trap 7th We overtook the camp on a stream called Rocky fork, a branch of Clarks fork of the Yellow Stone when we arrived at camp we were told the sad news of the death of a french Trapper named Bodah, who had been waylaid and killed by a party of Blackfeet while setting his traps and one of the Delawares had been shot thro the hip by the rifle of one of his comrades going off accidentally and several war parties of Blackfeet had been seen scouting about the country. We had been in camp but a few minutes when two trappers rode up whom we called "Major Meek" and "Dave Crow" The former was riding a white Indian pony, a tall Virginian who had been in the mountains some 12 years on dismounting some blood was discovered which had apparently been running down his horses neck and dried on the hair. He was immediately asked where he had been and what was the news? "News! exclaimed he "I have been, me and Dave over on to Priors fork to set our traps and found old Benj Johnson's boys there just walking up and down them are streams with their hands on their hips gathering plums, they gave me a tilt and turned me a somerset or two shot my horse "Too Shebit" in the neck and sent us heels over head in a pile together but we raised arunnin Gabe do you know where Prior leaves the cut bluffs going up it? Yes, replied Bridger. Well after you get out of the hills on the right hand fork there is scrubby box elders about 3 miles along the Creek up to where a little right hand spring branch puts in with lots and slivers of Plum trees about the mouth of it and some old beaver dams at the mouth on the main Creek? Well sir we went up there and set yesterday morning I set two traps right below the mouth of that little branch and in them old dams and Dave set his down the creek apiece, so after we had got our traps set we cruised round and eat plums a while, the best plums I ever saw is there" the trees are loaded and breaking down to the ground with the finest kind as large as Pheasants eggs and sweet as sugar the'l almost melt in yo mouth no wonder them rascally Savages like that place so well- Well sir after we had eat what plums we wanted me and Dave took down the creek and staid all night on a little branch in the hills and this morning started to our traps we came up to Dave's traps and in the first there was a 4 year old "spade" the next was false lickt went to the next and it had cut a foot and none of the rest disturbed, we then went up to mine to the mouth of the branch I rode on 5 or 6 steps ahead of Dave and just as I got opposite the first trap I heard a rustling in the bushes within about 5 steps of me I looked round and pop pop pop went the guns covering me with smoke so close that I could see the blanket wads coming out of the muzzles Well sir I wheeled and a ball struck Too shebit in the neck and just touched the bone and we pitched heels overhead but too shebit raised runnin and I on his back and the savages jist squattin and grabbin at me but I raised a fog for about half a mile till I overtook Dave" The foregoing story was corroborated by "Dave" a small inoffensive man who had come to the Rocky Mountains with Gen. Ashley some 15 years ago and remained ever since: an excellent hunter and a good trapper The next day we moved down the stream to its junction with Clarks fork within about 3 Mls of the Yellowstone On the following morning two men went to set traps down on the river and as they were hunting along the brushy banks for places to set a party of sixty Blackfeet surrounded them drove them into the river and shot after them as they were swimming accross on their horses One by the name of Howell, was shot by two fusee balls thro. the chest the other escaped unhurt. Howell rode within half a mile of camp fell and was brought in on a litter he lived about 20 hours and expired in the greatest agony imaginable - about an hour after he was brought in 20 Whites and Delawares went to scour the brush along the river and fight the Blackfeet Having found them they drove them on to an Island and fought them till dark. The loss on our side during the battle was a Nez percey Indian killed and one White slightly wounded in the shoulder. The Blackfeet who were fortified on the Island drew off in the night secreting their dead and carrying off their wounded The next day we interred the remains of poor Howell at the foot of a large Cottonwood tree and called the place "Howells encampment" as a compliment to his memory 11th We travelled on to Priors Fork and struck it where the Majors traps were setting distance 25 Mls Couse SE- 12th Stopped at this place and gathered plums 13th Travelled East 12 Mls to the left hand fork of Prior. 14th The snow fell all day and on the 15th it was 15 inches deep 16th We returned to the west fork of Prior and stopped the next day 18th The snow being gone we returned to Clarks Fork 19th Seven of us left the Camp and travelled to Rock fork near the mountain distance about 25 Mls course SW. We all kept together and set our traps on Rocky fork near the Mountain. We had been here five days when a party of Crow Indians came to us consisting of 49 warriors. They were on their way to the Blackfoot village to steal horses, they staid with us two nights and then went to the camp which had come on to this stream about 20 Mls below us. 28th Another party of Crows came to us consisting of 110 warriors. We went with them to the Camp which we found about 10 mls below. They remained with the camp the next day and then left for the Blackfoot village which they said was at the three forks of the Missouri. 30th We travelled with the Camp west on to the Rosebud Octr 1st The trappers scattered out in every direction to hunt Beaver on the branches of the "Rosebud" and continued to the 10th when we followed the Camp down the Yellow Stone where Mr. Bridger had concluded to pass the winter. The small streams being frozen trapping was suspended and all collected to winters quarters where were Thousands of fat Buffaloe feeding in the plains and we had nothing to do but slay and eat Octr. 25 The weather becoming fine and warm some of the trappers started again to hunt Beaver Myself and another started to Priors fork and set our traps on the East branch where we staid six days We then crossed a broken piece of country about 12 Mls NE and fell on to a stream running NE into the Big horn called "Bovy's fork" Here we set traps and staid 10 dys. This section of country is very uneven and broken but abounds with Buffaloe Elk Deer and Bear. Among other spontaneous productions of this country are hops which grow in great abundance and of a superior quality. Thousands of acres along the small branches the trees and shrubbery are completely entangled in the vines 11th The weather commenced cold the streams froze over again and we started for Camp which we found on Clarks fork about a mile above "Howells encampment" The Camp stopped at this place until Christmas then moved down about 4 Mls onto the Yellowstone. The bottoms along these rivers are heavily timbered with sweet cottonwood and our horses and mules are very fond of the bark which we strip from the limbs and give them every night as the Buffaloe have entirely destroyed the grass throughout this part of the country We passed away the time very agreeably our only employment being to feed our horses kill Buffaloe and eat that is to say the Trappers The camp keepers' business in winter quarters is to guard the horses cook and keep fires. We all had snug lodges made of dressed Buffaloe skins in the center of which we built a fire and generally comprised about six men to the lodge The long winter evenings were passed away by collecting in some of the most spacious lodges and entering into debates arguments or spinning long yarns until midnight in perfect good humour and I for one will cheerfully confess that I have derived no little benefit from the frequent arguments and debates held in what we termed The Rocky Mountain College and I doubt not but some of my comrades who considered themselves Classical Scholars have had some little added to their wisdom in these assemblies however rude they might appear On the 28th of Jany myself and six more trappers concluded to take a cruise of 5 or 6 days after Buffaloe The snow was about inches deep and the weather clear and cold we took seven loose animals to pack meat and travelled up Clarks fork about 12 Mls killed a cow and encamped The next morning we started across towards Rock fork and had gone about 3 Mls over the smooth plain gradually ascending to a range of hills which divides Clarks fork from Rock We were riding carelessly along with our rifles lying carelessly before us on our saddles when we came to a deep narrow gulch made by the water running from the hills in the Spring Season when behold! the earth seemed teeming with naked Savages A quick volley of fusees a shower of balls and a cloud of smoke clearly bespoke their nation tribe manners and customs and mode of warfare: A ball broke the right arm of one man and he dropped his rifle which a savage immediately caught up and shot after us as we wheeled and scampered away out of the reach of their guns. There was about 80 Indians who had secreted themselves until we rode within 15 feet of them They got a rifle clear gain and we had one man wounded and lost a Rifle so they had so much the advantage and we were obliged to go to Camp and study out some plan to get even as by the two or three last skirmishes we had fell in this rebt. A few days afterwards a party of 20 were discovered crossing the plain to the river about 6 Mls below us 20 men immediately mounted, and set off and arrived at the place just as they had entered the timber - they ran into some old rotten Indian forts formed of small poles in a conical shape The whites immediately surrounded and opened fire upon them which was kept up until darkness and the severity of the weather compelled them to retire We had one man wounded slightly thro. the hip and one Delaware was shot by a poisoned ball in the leg which lodged under the knee cap he lived four days and expired. On examining the battle ground next day we found that three or four at least had been killed and put under the Ice in the river seven or 8 had been badly wounded which they dragged away on trains to their village. We found that the old forts were not bullet proof in any place our rifle balls had whistled thro. them nearly every shot and blood and brains lay scattered about inside on the shattered fragments of rotton wood. Feby. 22d Mr Bridger according to his usual custom took his telescope & mounted a high bluff near the encampment to look out for "squalls" as he termed it about 1 ock PM he returned appearing somewhat alarmed and on being asked the cause, He said the great plain below was alive with savages who were coming accross the hills to the timber about 10 Mls below us. From this place the river runs in a NE direction bearing E. On the Nth and West side is a plain from 6 to 10 Mls wide bordered by rough broken hills and clay bluffs on the S and E the river runs along the foot of a high range of steep bluffs intersected by deep ravines and gulches. Along the river are large bottoms covered with large cottonwood timber and clear of underbrush. All hands commenced to build a breast work round the camp, which was constructed of Logs and brush piled horizontally 6 feet high around the camp enclosing about 250 feet square

This being completed at dark a double guard was mounted and all remained quiet but it was a bitter Cold night. I mounted guard from 9 till 12 oclk the weather was clear the stars shone with an unusual lustre and the trees cracked like pistols about 10 oclk the northern lights commenced streaming up darting flashing rushing to and fro like the movements of an army at length the shooting and flashing died away and gradually turned to a deep blood red spreading over one half of the sky. This awful and sublime phenomenon (if I may be alowed to mingle such terms) lasted near two hours then gradually disappeared - and being relieved by the morning guard I went to bed and slept soundly till Sunrise. The next day we were engaged Strengthening the fortress by cutting timber from 12 to 18 inches in diameter standing them inside on end leaning them on the breastwork close to gether. This was completed about noon. About 2 oclk. Mr. Bridger and six men mounted and went to reconnoiter the enemy but returned soon after with the intelligence of their being encamped about 9 Miles below on the river and there was a multitude of them on foot. 24th The night passed without any disturbance and we began to fear we should not have a fight after after all our trouble. About sunrise one solitary Savage crept up behind the trees and shot about 200 yds at Mr Bridger's Cook as he was gathering wood outside the fort Then scampered off without doing any damage

A Spaniard was ordered on to the bluff to look out and found an Indian in the observatory built on the top who waited until the Spaniard approached the Indian then raised and the Spaniard wheeled and took to his heels the Indian shot and the ball struck him in the heel as he made a 50 foot leap down the bluff and slid down the snow to the bottom. In about half an hour the word was passed that they were coming on the Ice and presently they appeared coming round a bend of the river in close columns within about 400 yards They then turned off to the right into the plain and called a halt. The Chief who wore a white blanket came forward a few steps and gave us the signal that he should not fight but return to his village They then turned and took a NW Course accross the Plain toward the 3 forks of the Missouri. We came to a conclusion after numerous conjectures that the wonderful appearance of the heavens a few nights previous connected with our strong fortification had caused them to abandon the ground without an attack which is very probable as all Indians are very superstitious We supposed on examining their Camp next day that numbers must have been about eleven hundred who had started from their village with the determination of rubbing us from the face of the earth but that the Great spirit had shown them that their side of the heavens was bloody whilst ours was Clear and Serene. 28th Feby we left our winter quarters on the Yellow Stone and Started for the Big horn the snow being 6 inches deep on an average we travelled slowly and reached it in eight days at the mouth of "Bovy fork" about 15 Mls below the lower Big horn mountain and then began to Slay and eat but we slayed so much faster than we eat that our meat scaffolds groand under the weight of fat buffaloe meat We remained here amusing ourselves with playing ball hoping wrestling running foot races etc until the 14th of March when we discovered the Crow village moving down the Big horn toward us immediately all sports were ended Some mounted horses to meet them others fortified camp ready for battle in case there should be a misunderstanding between us The scouting party soon returned with some of the Chiefs accompanied by an American who was trading with them in the employ of the American Fur Company. The Chiefs after smoking and looking about some time returned to their village which had encamped about 3 mls above on the river. The next morning they came and encamped within 300 yds of us. Their Village contained 200 lodges and about 200 warriors. The Crows are a proud haughty insolent Tribe whenever their party is the strongest but if the case is reversed they are equally cowardly and submissive. This Village is called "Long hair's band" after their chief whose hair is eleven feet six inches long done up in an enormous queue about 18 inches long and six inches thick hanging down his back he is about 80 years of age and seems to be afflicted with the Dropsy the only case of the kind I have ever known among the Mountain Indians. The village staid with us until the 25 of March and then moved down the river about 6 mls. We left the Big horn on the 1st of April and started on the Spring hunt. On the 3d up Bovy's fork 20 mls. 4th Up the same 10 mls. After we had encamped four Delawares who were cruising about in the hills hunting buffaloe fell in with a party of 10 or 12 Blackfeet killed one on the spot and wounded several more. The Blackfeet then took to their heels and left the victorious Delawares without loss except one horse being slightly wounded in the neck 10th We arrived at "Howells encampment" at the mouth of Rocky fork. The whole country here was filled with Buffaloe driven this way by the Crow Village 11th We raised a Cache of Beaver and other articles which had been deposited in the ground in Novr. last. 14 A party of 12 trappers and two Camp Keepers started to trap the "Muscle Shell" river which heads in the mountain near "25 Yard river" and runs into the Missouri on the South side above the mouth of the Yellow Stone. Myself and three others travelled up Rocky fork about 20 mls but found so much Snow and ice that we could not set our traps for Beaver. We found a large cave on the SE side of a perpendicular rock. in this we encamped six days during which we made great havoc among the Buffaloe On the 23d the camp moved up to our Cave and the next day I went up the stream about 12 mls and set my traps and saw signs of several war parties of Blackfeet who were scouting about the country 26th I was cruising with another trapper thro. the timber and brush above where we had set our traps when on a sudden we came within 10 steps of two Blackfoot Forts and saw the smoke ascending from the tops as we saw no individuals we entered and found the Indians had been gone about half an hour. 28th The party arrived from the Muscle Shell having been defeated and lost one Trapper and nearly all their horses and traps by the Blackfeet May 1st All being collected we left Rocky fork close to the Mountain and took round the foot in an east direction and encamped at a spring where we staid the next day, the Blackfeet still continued dogging at our heels to steal now and then a horse which might get loose in the night. There is a proverb among Mountaineers "That It is better to count ribs than tracks" That is to say it is better to fasten a horse at night untill you can count his ribs with poverty than turn him loose to fatten and count his tracks after an Indian has stolen him 3d Travelled on to Clarks fork 12 Mls SE and the next day up the same 15 mls South 5th Travelled to a small branch running into Stinking river, South direction 15 mls 6th we encamped on Stinking river about 15 mls below the forks distance about 12 mls course SE. 7th We travelled from the river about 20 mls in a South direction and encamped at a Spring 8th to the "Gray Bull fork" of the Big horn 9th to the Medicine lodge fork 12 mls South 10th to the middle fork of the "Medicine lodge" 8 mls 11th to the South fork of the Medicine lodge 8 mls South. Here we staid two days 14th Travelled SE to a small spring at the foot of the upper Big horn mountain distance 13 mls The 15 travelled to the top of the Big horn mountain and encamped on the divide The country over which we have travelled since we left "Stinking" [is] much broken by spurs of Mountains and deep gullies entirely destitute of timber except along the banks of the streams 16th Travelled down the Mountain on the South side and encamped on a small branch of Wind river This river loses its name whilst passing thro. the upper Big horn mountain From thence it takes the name of the Big horn derived from the vast numbers of Mountain Sheep or Big horn inhabiting the mountains thro. which it passes. 17th Over broken country South about 15 mls 18th Encamped on the river after a march of 10 ms. South. 19th The camp intending to stop here several days I started with a raw Son of Erin to hunt Beaver on the head branches of the river. We travelled up west about 25 Mls to what is called the "red rock" Killed a sheep and encamped for the night where several branches of the river united 20th We took up a large branch about 15 ms NW and found the water overflowing the banks of all the branches so much that it was impossible to catch Beaver We then altered our Course NE accross the country in order to examine the small branches on our right but finding all our efforts to trap useless and discovering that a war party consisting of 80 Blackfeet were in pursuit of us we returned to the camp by a different route on the 23 24th Travelled with the Camp to the north fork of "Popo azia" or "[?] river" one of the principal branches of Wind river distance 12 mls course South 25 to the middle fork of the same stream 8 mls distance 26th To the Oil Spring on the South fork of "Popo-azia" This spring produces about one Gallon per hour of pure Oil of Coal or rather Coal Tar the scent of which often carried on the wind 5 or 6 mls. The Oil issues from the ground within 30 feet of the stream and runs off slowly into the water Camp stopped here eight days We set fire to the spring when there was 2 or 3 Bbls. of oil on the ground about it, it burnt very quick and clear but produced a dense column of thick black smoke the oil above ground being consumed the fire soon went out. This is a beautiful country thickly clothed with grass intermingled with flowers of every hue. On the west rises the Wind River range of Mountains abruptly from the smooth rolling hills until crowned with Snow above the Clouds On the East stretches away the Great Wind River plain and terminates at a low range of Mountains rising between Wind and Powder Rivers

Buffaloe Elk and Sheep are abundant. Beds of Iron and Coal are frequently found in this part of the country June 5th We left the Oil Spring and took over a point of Mountain about 15 mls SW and encamped on a small spring branch 6th Crossed the Spurs of Mountains due west 12 mls and en camped on a branch of Sweet water 7th Travelled west about 15 mls and encamped on "little Sandy" a branch of Green River 8th Travelled North up the Valley about 18 mls. and encamped on a stream called the New fork of Green river where we staid the next day 10th Travelled west to the Main river about 25 mls and struck the river about 12 mls below the mouth of horse creek Here we found the hunting Parties all assembled waiting for the arrival of Supplies from the States. Here presented what might be termed a mixed multitude The whites were chiefly Americans and Canadian French with some Dutch, Scotch, Irish, English, halfbreed, and full blood Indians, of nearly every tribe in the Rocky Mountains. Some were gambling at Cards some playing the Indian game of hand and others horse racing while here and there could be seen small groups collected under shady trees relating the events of the past year all in good Spirits and health for Sickness is a Stranger seldom met with in these regions. Sheep Elk Deer Buffaloe and Bear Skins mostly supply the Mountaineers with clothing bedding and lodges while the meat of the same animals supplies them with food. They have not the misfortune to get any of the luxuries from the civilized world but once a year and then in such small quantities that they last but a few days. We had not remained in this quiet manner long before something new arose for our amusement The Bonnak Indians had for several years lived with the whites on terms partly hostile frequently stealing horses and traps and in one instance killed two White trappers. They had taken some horses and traps from a party of French trappers who were hunting Bear river in April last, and they were now impudent enough to come with the village of 60 lodges and encamp within 3 mls of us in order to trade with the whites as usual still having the stolen property in their possession and refusing to give it up On the 15 of June 4 or 5 whites an two Nez Percey Indians went to their Vi