|
|
Life
Casting
Index to this Page
Read about the process, Check out the Instructions for the Face Casting Kit
Check out our Article on Pregnancy
Casting and other Life Casting
About Face and
Body Casting:
Alginate,
plaster and plaster bandages are being used more and more in a variety
of applications: A face and head cast is the foundation for foam latex
makeup, plaster casts of hands are now sold regularly in art shows, and
plaster bandage "sculpts" have been crafted by artists for more than 30
years. When combined as a process, these three basic materials can be
used to make casts of exceptional quality. The head cast pictured here
was used for a melting vampire in the movie "Nightfall" produced by
Spinning Reel Films. Please review the following notes before
using any of the materials featured on this page.
It is a common and dangerous misconception that plaster is
used to make life-casts of actors' faces for use in special effects.
Because plaster becomes rigid, it is difficult to handle and
remove, especially from body hair. Because of its weight, it
will deform the face. We recommend artists use a prosthetic grade
alginate. Alginate is a rubbery material derived from seaweed.
Dental alginate can be used but you will only have 50 seconds
of working time and you must use cold water which is uncomfortable.
We recommend a "Warm-water slow-setting alginate" which
has been buffered to set in about 5 minutes. This gives you plenty
of working time and because warm water can be used, it is much
more comfortable to wear. Use plaster bandages as a "back-up"
to the alginate and use the plaster only for the positive cast.
If you are doing a full body cast you can use a high quality
plaster bandage to pick up detail on the arms, legs and body.
Use silicone or alginate in detail areas like the hands, feet
and face.
Want more information? Check out our Article
on Pregnancy Casting and other Life Casting
Glossary of
Materials and Terminology
used in Life Casting: click links to see pictures
ALGINATE, also known as PROSTHETIC GRADE CREAM. A powder,
that when mixed with water transforms into a rubbery material.
Typically Alginate can only be used once. Dental Alginate is
used by dentists to cast teeth. Slo-set (Prosthetic) Alginates
are used to cast face, limbs and body parts. Dental alginates
set in 50 to 60 seconds. Prosthetic alginates set in three to
ten minutes. Sorry, prosthetic alginates are not flavored.
BALD CAP, BALD PATE,
BALD WIG. A stretchy cap that is stretched over the head
to protect the hair during casting. Made from Glatzan or latex
rubber.
CAST. The final piece taken from mold. A POSITIVE.
Usually made from Casting plaster, Hydrostone, foam latex, slip
latex, UltraCAL 30 or other material. Cast can generally be used
to describe the entire process, for example: To do a body cast
the artist would prep the model, make a mold and take a cast
from the mold.
CASTING PLASTER.
Very much like Plaster of Paris except that it has a slower setting
time. Forms a skin when used in a mold. Used for finished casts.
No good for latex molds or for foam latex. Paints well. 2,400
psi.
HYDROSTONE.
Gypsum Cement. Hard and strong. Used in high quality art and
novelty casting. Can't be worked with a template or formed by
hand. Forms exceptional details. Very resistant to water absorption.
10,000 psi.
MEDICAL ADHESIVE. A silicone based adhesive that works
like super-glue. Used by professionals instead of spirit gum.
Don't use it around the eyes. Don't try to use it without a good
MEDICAL ADHESIVE REMOVER. NOTE: For environmental reasons the
old Medical Adhesive that we all know and love is no longer available.
The new stuff works well but has a different formula. If you
order the Ben Nye stuff that we sell we will send you PROSTHETIC
ADHESIVE which works just as well.
MODEL. The person or thing which you want to duplicate.
MOLD. A NEGATIVE of the model. In body and face casting
the mold is usually made from Alginate or plaster bandages.
MOLDERS' PLASTER.
AKA Pottery Plaster. Excellent for molds, especially for ceramics
and slip latex (masks). Doesn't form a skin like plaster of Paris
or casting plaster. Absorbs water very well after completely
dry. 2,000 psi.
PLASTER BANDAGES. The same thing a doctor would use
to put a cast on your arm. We use Gypsona Brand Bandages because
they are very creamy and flexible. 2" and 6" are the
most common sizes used.
RELEASE or RELEASE
AGENT. Something that is smeared, painted or sprayed
over something else to keep stuff from sticking to it. For example
petroleum jelly is smeared over the eye brows to keep alginate
from sticking to them. Releases are used for specific materials.
ULTRA CAL-30.
Gypsum Cement (looks and works like plaster). Excellent for foam
latex molds because of its strength and resistance to heat. Standard
of the industry for special effects make-up artists. 6,000 psi.
Instructional
Videos:
Magic Molds and Casting
with Steve Biggs
First section of this video demonstrates face-casting with
alginate and the making of a UltraCal30 master of a person's
face. Other topics include: Plaster waste mold, Simple plaster
mold, Latex mold, and a demonstration of vacuum forming. Demonstrates
casting of slip latex (Halloween Mask type technique). Great
starting point for people without any previous mold experience.
Please Note: The original description of this video included
silicone technique, after shooting we discovered enough material
for two videos. Tape 2 in the SES series.
1997, 48 min. VHS
| VIDEO31 |
Magic Molds and Casting |
|
| DVD31 |
Magic Molds and Casting |
|
Techniques of Lifecasting with Rob Burman.
Details the processes of casting various parts of the body
for the purposes of creating three dimensional prosthetic makeups.
Subject included are: teeth impressions, full body casting, full
head casts, limbs and more. Approx 90 mins.
| VIDEO51 |
Techniques of Lifecasting with Rob Burman |
|
Face
and Body Casting Materials Price List:
Information about molding and casting can be found in our Molding and Casting Section.
Life Casting Supplies:
Professional Face Casting Kit
Everything needed to do one large face cast. Very convenient.
| K-55 |
Pro Face Cast Kit *S* |
|
| K-55-W |
Contains Hydrocal white *S* |
|
Skin-Safe Silicone Kits
Skin safe silicone putty for direct use on the skin
| SSS-1 |
Skin-safe, 1 lb. Kit *S* |
|
| SSS-5 |
Skin-safe, 5 lb. Kit *S* |
|
Alginates for Life-casting.
Accu-Cast Products, Prosthetic Alginates
Accu-Cast is an advanced irreversible hydrocolloid molding
material. Accu-Cast products have very low shrinkage rates, high
tear strength, fine grain, and a warm water mix. There are three
different formulas of Accu-Cast which are formulated for different
set times.
Accu-Cast 390 (Buff), Prosthetic Alginate, 3 min. set
Fast set. Sets in three minutes at 90° water temperature.
Creamy, with great flowing characteristics when mixed. This material
is ideal for smaller projects like fingers, hands, and small
props. Strongly recommended for children's hand casts.
| ALG-390-1 |
Accu-Cast 390, 16 oz. |
|
| ALG-390-5 |
Accu-Cast 390, 5 lb. |
|
| ALG-390-10 |
Accu-Cast 390, 10 lb |
|
| ALG-390-20 |
Accu-Cast 390, 20 lb |
|
Accu-Cast LS-680 (Green), Prosthetic Alginate, 6 min. set time
Medium set. Sets in six minutes at 80° water temperature.
Formulated specifically to minimize slump. This material is ideal
for medium-sized projects like hands, arms, faces and larger
props. The special LS formula has an especially low shrinkage
rate ideal for critical jobs.
| ALG-680-1 |
Accu-Cast 680, 16 oz. |
|
| ALG-680-5 |
Accu-Cast 680, 5 lb. |
|
| ALG-680-10 |
Accu-Cast 680, 10 lb |
|
| ALG-680-20 |
Accu-Cast 680, 20 lb |
|
Accu-Cast 880 (Blue), Prosthetic Alginate, 8 min. set time.
Slow set. Sets in eight minutes at 80° water temperature.
This material is ideal for big jobs like heads, torsos, full
bodies, and really large props. Excellent for regular casting
in humid and warm regions.
| ALG-880-1 |
Accu-Cast 880, 16 oz. |
|
| ALG-880-5 |
Accu-Cast 880, 5 lb. |
|
| ALG-880-10 |
Accu-Cast 880, 10 lb |
|
| ALG-880-20 |
Accu-Cast 880, 20 lb |
|
Steve's Life-casting Trouble Shooter
Working
with alginate for the first time can be frustrating. Fortunately, it
has a very steep learning cure, and if you have even a measure of
common sense you will figure it out rather quickly. We do get some
common questions when things don't go right. In order, here are the
most common problems and their solutions;
Problem: The material set too fast. Solutions:
Make sure your ratios are correct. Make sure you are mixing by weight
rather than volume. Use cold tap water, forget the warm water deal.
Don't mix it for such a long time.
Problem: The material never set. Solutions:
The temperature was too cold, use above 70 degrees. The material was
too watery, don't use so much water. You used soft water, just use
normal tap water. In rare cases, the material was too old. It does have
a shelf life of about six months. It can be used a year or two after
that, but time seems to slow it down.
Problem: The material was too thick or too thin. Solutions:
Weight the material with a scale. Measure the material by weight, not
by volume. We do have an advanced ratio chart, but for the most part,
if you use the ratio printed on the label you will be OK.
Problem: The material had lumps. Solutions: Use
a electrical mixer of some sort. A Jiffy Mixer (r) works great, but you
will need to adjust the mix ratios. Ignore the lumps, they don't affect
the inside of the mold anyway. Generally some lumps are OK as long as
they are not dry. Don't over-mix, in this case, more is not better.
Problem: The material was lumpy and never set. Solution: Sometimes people over-mix the material after it has set. Basically they chopped set material into small pieces.
Steve Tips:
Always weigh the material, don't try to use "volume" as your results will vary too much.
Strive for a "wet" batch even though you will have to move the material against gravity.
Combine
all your water and powder at the same time. If you put in water, wait
and add more water you will just be adding water to chemicals that have
already started to combine. This is a good way to get big lumps.
Don't
use too much, especially on the face. The weight of the material will
make the skin sag and add ten years to the age of the model.
Use
cold, normal tap water. Forget the water temperature thing. All that
does is add an extra layer of frustration. Most people don't use a
thermometer. If you run your finger under the tap, the water will be
way too warm.
Keep notes.
Larger batches change the mix ratio.
Slower alginate is weaker and looses detail. What is more important to you? Working time or strength and detail.
Always cast in the position your final piece will be. If your model will be standing up, then cast them in the upright position.
It's OK to get this stuff in your mouth, it just doesn't taste good.
Don't breath through straws. Just leave the air-passages open. It's just like breathing with a bad cold.
Lumps are OK just as long as they are not dry.
Get good information. Experiment before you commit to a large batch.
All problems can be solved with common sense. You are not building a rocket engine.
Don't forget this is supposed to be fun.
Plaster Bandages, Gypsona Brand
Very smooth and creamy, excellent for life casting and mold
work.
| GYP2 |
Plaster Bandage, 2" x 3 yd |
|
| GYP2 |
Plaster Bandage, 2" x 3 yd |
|
| GYP4 |
Plaster Bandage, 4" x 5 yd |
|
| GYP6 |
Plaster Bandage, 6" x 5 yd |
|
| Box of 12 |
| GYP2x12 |
Plaster Bandage, 2" x 3 yd, per doz. *S* |
|
| GYP4x12 |
Plaster Bandage, 4" x 5 yd, per doz. *S* |
|
| GYP6x12 |
Plaster Bandage, 6" x 5 yd, per doz. *S* |
|
Moulage
Reusable life-casting material. Melt it in a double-boiler
and brush on.
| K02705 |
Moulage, 2 lbs |
|
| K02704 |
Moulage, 5 lbs |
|
*S* = Special Shipping Required.
TO TOP of PAGE
This page originally posted: 11/09/2003
This page last updated:
|