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Dry Cosmetic Grade Pigments
Great
for mixing your own makeup. These come in dry powder form. To make your
own rubber mask grease paint, simply mix with a bit of castor oil. Can
be used as colorant for PVC or silicone. NOTE: The Bob Kelly Dry Cosmetic Grade Pigments were discontinued in 2000.
*DCP-FK Contains the colors: Light Flesh Pigment, Medium Flesh Pigment, Dark Flesh Pigment,Ruddy Flesh Pigment, Brown (Raw Umber) *DCP-PK Contains the colors: Black, White, Green, Yellow, Blue, Red. About Cosmetic Pigments These pigments come in powder form. They are about as pure and they can be. They come to us certified from the maker. The Certification states the amount of heavy metals, germs, and any contamination. Because these are FDA certified they have extremely small amounts of harmful substances. We're talking parts per million and parts per billion. Everything on the planet, regardless of how pure it is will contain trace amounts of harmful substances. So don't be worried about this. Everything we sell is pure to FDA standards. The pigments that don't pass these stringent standards is passed on to industrial use. Now, having said that, we do not pass on these certifications to you. Once we open our containers and start repacking them, the certification becomes void. This is just standard industry practice. Now, what does this mean to you. It means everything is fine unless you plan to use the pigments you get from us in the manufacturer of cosmetics. When you start to manufacture cosmetics you must buy pigments from the big supply houses like we do. You can do this if you want, but the big boys have big minimums. It's easy to blow two or three thousands dollars on just a small palette of colors. The bottom line is this; if you plan to manufacture cosmetics, please do to the big importers and start dealing directly with them. If you plan to do anything else with powdered pigments then contact us and we can fix you up. Using Dry Pigments Each
pigment has its own "personality." Black is very strong, white is weak,
iron oxides are heavy and red will stain. People are always asking how
much they will need for a project. I can't give a good answer because
pigment saturation is very subjective. You'll just have to experiment
-- take notes!Because these pigments are a dry power, they don't exactly mix into liquids easily. This is an advantage if you are making fake skin. It is a disadvantage if you want to color some polyester resin because it will be difficult to blend. Each situation is different. Basically, if you need to mix the pigments into a liquid use a little hand blender ($20 at Kmart.) There are more complicated methods including the use of something called at "Three Roll Mill." A Three Roll mill is a machine that uses sheer force to "disperse" the pigment into the liquid. You can buy three roll mills for about $3,000 for a used table top. I got a laboratory model because we don't disperse very much material. You may want to do the same thing. Otherwise, use a blender of some sort. The rule of the liquid is determined by type of material you are adding pigment to. For example, if you are pigmenting epoxy resin, put the pigment into the clear side, blend it all the way through and when you are ready mix the epoxy just like normal. Some pigments will affect the curing times, so do some tests before you commit to a larger batch. You can also buy raw pigments in the art store (ours are more pure and cost less.) or you can simply use something with pigment in it. A good example is when people use artist's acrylic paint in the tube to color latex. In this case you simply use a small amount of paint as a coloring agent for the latex. If you plan to use the dry pigments for fake skin I recommend you get our DVD "Skins for prop dummies" by Steve Biggs. (Yes, that's me.) you can find it in our Instructional DVD section. I also recommend you color solid materials before you pour them into the mold. For example, let's say you are making some black plaster props. You can paint them, but why not dye the plaster black. If someone drops one and it breaks in half, it will still be black because it is colored all the way through. No big white edge to betray its true material. No panic touchup. No cheap plaster look. You can always color things intrinsically as your foundation or base color and then add details with your brush. Well, that's all for now. Thanks, Steve Biggs 1-27-2009
This page originally posted: 09/21/2004 |
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