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Dry Cosmetic Pigments
Dry Cosmetic Grade Pigments

Great
for mixing your own makeup. These come in dry powder form. To make your
own rubber mask grease paint, simply mix with a bit of castor oil. Can
be used as colorant for PVC or silicone.
NOTE: The Bob Kelly Dry Cosmetic Grade Pigments were discontinued in 2000.
| DCP-10 |
Bright Yellow Pigment |
10 g. |
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| DCP-12 |
Mustard Yellow Pigment |
20 g. |
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| DCP-20 |
Bright Red Pigment |
10 g. |
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| DCP-22 |
Brick Red Pigment |
30 g. |
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| DCP-30 |
Light Flesh Pigment |
20 g. |
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| DCP-34 |
Medium Flesh Pigment |
20 g. |
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| DCP-36 |
Dark Flesh Pigment |
20 g. |
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| DCP-38 |
Ruddy Flesh Pigment |
20 g. |
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| DCP-42 |
Raw Umber |
25 g. |
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| DCP-43 |
Brunt Umber |
25 g. |
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| DCP-70 |
Royal Blue Pigment |
25 g. |
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| DCP-75 |
Lt. Blue Pigment |
25 g. |
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| DCP-80 |
Green Pigment |
40 g. |
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| DCP-90 |
White Pigment |
25 g. |
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| DCP-99 |
Black Pigment |
30 g. |
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| DCP-FK |
Flesh Color Kit, 5 Colors* |
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[Photo] |
| DCP-PK |
Primary Color Kit, 6 colors* |
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[Photo] |
*DCP-FK
Contains the colors: Light Flesh Pigment, Medium Flesh Pigment, Dark
Flesh Pigment,Ruddy Flesh Pigment, Brown (Raw Umber)
*DCP-PK Contains the colors: Black, White, Green, Yellow, Blue, Red.
About Cosmetic Pigments
These
pigments come in powder form. They are about as pure and they can be.
They come to us certified from the maker. The Certification states the
amount of heavy metals, germs, and any contamination. Because these are
FDA certified they have extremely small amounts of harmful substances.
We're talking parts per million and parts per billion. Everything on
the planet, regardless of how pure it is will contain trace amounts of
harmful substances. So don't be worried about this. Everything we sell
is pure to FDA standards. The pigments that don't pass these stringent
standards is passed on to industrial use.
Now, having said that,
we do not pass on these certifications to you. Once we open our
containers and start repacking them, the certification becomes void.
This is just standard industry practice. Now, what does this mean to
you. It means everything is fine unless you plan to use the pigments
you get from us in the manufacturer of cosmetics. When you start to
manufacture cosmetics you must buy pigments from the big supply houses
like we do. You can do this if you want, but the big boys have big
minimums. It's easy to blow two or three thousands dollars on just a
small palette of colors. The bottom line is this; if you plan to
manufacture cosmetics, please do to the big importers and start dealing
directly with them. If you plan to do anything else with powdered
pigments then contact us and we can fix you up.
Using Dry Pigments
Each
pigment has its own "personality." Black is very strong, white is weak,
iron oxides are heavy and red will stain. People are always asking how
much they will need for a project. I can't give a good answer because
pigment saturation is very subjective. You'll just have to experiment
-- take notes! Because these pigments are a dry power, they don't
exactly mix into liquids easily. This is an advantage if you are making
fake skin. It is a disadvantage if you want to color some polyester
resin because it will be difficult to blend. Each situation is
different. Basically, if you need to mix the pigments into a liquid use
a little hand blender ($20 at Kmart.) There are more complicated
methods including the use of something called at "Three Roll Mill." A
Three Roll mill is a machine that uses sheer force to "disperse" the
pigment into the liquid. You can buy three roll mills for about $3,000
for a used table top. I got a laboratory model because we don't
disperse very much material. You may want to do the same thing.
Otherwise, use a blender of some sort. The rule of the liquid is
determined by type of material you are adding pigment to. For example,
if you are pigmenting epoxy resin, put the pigment into the clear side,
blend it all the way through and when you are ready mix the epoxy just
like normal. Some pigments will affect the curing times, so do some
tests before you commit to a larger batch.
You can also buy raw
pigments in the art store (ours are more pure and cost less.) or you
can simply use something with pigment in it. A good example is when
people use artist's acrylic paint in the tube to color latex. In this
case you simply use a small amount of paint as a coloring agent for the
latex.
If you plan to use the dry pigments for fake skin I
recommend you get our DVD "Skins for prop dummies" by Steve Biggs.
(Yes, that's me.) you can find it in our Instructional DVD section.
I
also recommend you color solid materials before you pour them into the
mold. For example, let's say you are making some black plaster props.
You can paint them, but why not dye the plaster black. If someone drops
one and it breaks in half, it will still be black because it is colored
all the way through. No big white edge to betray its true material. No
panic touchup. No cheap plaster look. You can always color things
intrinsically as your foundation or base color and then add details
with your brush.
Well, that's all for now.
Thanks, Steve Biggs 1-27-2009
This page originally posted: 09/21/2004
This page last updated:
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