What I Saw in California
by Edwin Bryant
Part 4.
Chapters 21-29:
In Northern
California,
September 3-November 12, 1846.
California Indians—Captain Sutter—Difficulties in making his first settlement in California — Laboring Indians — Propensity for gambling — Captain Sutter’s coin — Account of their games — Food of the Indians — Captain Sutter’s wheat crops in 1846 — Scarcity of flouring-mills — Waterpower — Hemp — Dine with Captain Sutter; description of the dinner — Oppressive impost-duties of the Mexican government — Indian rancherias — Indian orgies — Sacramento river — Salmon — New Helvetia — Indian sweat-house — Reported Indian invasion by the Walla-Wallas — Description of the Walla-Wallas.
Sept. 3.—We remained encamped near Sutter’s Fort, or Fort Sacramento, as
subsequently it has been named. This morning we were visited by numerous
Indians from the neighboring rancherias, who brought with them
watermelons, muskmelons, and strings of pan-fish, taken from a small pond
about half a mile distant, with a sort of hand-trap. The Indians wade into
the pond with their traps in hand, and take with them the fish, sometimes by
dozens at a haul. These they wished to trade for such small articles as we
possessed, and the cast-off clothing of the members of our party. Some of
these Indians were partially clothed, others were entirely naked, and a
portion of them spoke the Spanish language. They exhibited considerable
sharpness in making a bargain, holding their wares at a high valuation, and
although their desire to trade appeared to be strong, they would make no
sacrifices to obtain the articles offered in exchange for them. But such was
the desire of our men to obtain vegetables, of which they had been for so
long a time deprived, that there was scarcely any article which they
possessed, which they would refuse to barter for them.
The Indians generally are well made and of good stature, varying from
five feet four inches to five feet ten and eleven inches in height, with
strong muscular developments. Their hair is long, black, and coarse, and
their skin is a shade lighter than that of a mulatto. They appear to be
indolent and averse from labor of every kind, unless combined with their
sports and amusements, when they are as reckless of fatigue and danger as
any class of men I have seen.
By invitation of Captain Sutter, addressed to myself and Mr. Jacob, we
visited and dined at the fort. The fort is situated near the confluence of
the Rio de los Americanos and the Rio Sacramento. The valley of the
Sacramento is here of great width, and consequently the fort is surrounded
by an extensive plain, bounded by distant mountains on the east and on the
west. This plain exhibits every evidence of a most fertile soil. The
grasses, although they are now brown and crisp from the periodical drought,
still stand with their ripened seeds upon them, showing their natural
luxuriance. Groves or parks of the evergreen oak relieve the monotony of the
landscape, and dot the level plain as far as the eye can reach.
Captain Sutter received us with manifestations of cordial hospitality. He
is a gentleman between forty-five and fifty years of age, and in manners,
dress, and general deportment, he approaches so near what we call the "old
school gentleman," as to present a gulfy contrast from the rude society by
which he is surrounded. Captain Sutter is a native of Switzerland, and was
at one time an officer in the French army. He emigrated to the United
States, and was naturalized From thence, after a series of most
extraordinary and romantic incidents, to relate which would furnish matter
for a volume, he planted himself on the spot where his fort now stands, then
a savage wilderness, and in the midst of numerous and hostile tribes of
Indians. With the small party of men which he originally brought with him,
he succeeded in defending himself against the Indians, until he constructed
his first defensive building. He told me, that several times, being hemmed
in by his assailants, he had subsisted for many days upon grass alone. There
is a grass in this valley which the Indians eat, that is pleasant to the
taste and nutritious. He succeeded by degrees in reducing the Indians to
obedience, and by means of their labor erected the spacious fortification
which now belongs to him.
The fort is a parallelogram, about five hundred feet in length and one
hundred and fifty in breadth. The walls are constructed of adobes, or
sun-dried bricks. The main building, or residence, stands near the centre of
the area, or court, enclosed by the walls. A row of shops, store-rooms, and
barracks, are enclosed within, and line the walls on every side. Bastions
project from the angles, the ordnance mounted in which sweep the walls. The
principal gates on the east and the south are also defended by heavy
artillery, through portholes pierced in the walls. At this time the fort is
manned by about fifty well-disciplined Indians, and ten or twelve white men,
all under the pay of the United States. These Indians are well clothed and
fed. The garrison is under the command of Mr. Kern, the artist of Captain
Fremont’s exploring expedition.
The number of laboring Indians employed by Captain Sutter during the
seasons of sowing and harvest, is from two to three hundred. Some of these
are clothed in shirts and blankets, but a large portion of them are entirely
naked. They are paid so much per day for their labor, in such articles of
merchandise as they may select from the store. Cotton cloth and
handkerchiefs are what they most freely purchase. Common brown cotton cloth
sells at one dollar per yard. A tin coin issued by Captain Sutter circulates
among them, upon which is stamped the number of days that the holder has
labored. These stamps indicate the value in merchandise to which the laborer
or holder is entitled.
They are inveterate gamblers, and those who have been so fortunate as to
obtain clothing, frequently stake and part with every rag upon their backs.
The game which they most generally play is carried on as follows. Any number
which may be concerned in it seat themselves cross-legged on the ground, in
a circle. They are then divided into two parties, each of which has two
champions or players. A ball, or some small article, is placed in the hands
of the players on one side, which they transfer from hand to hand with such
sleight and dexterity that it is nearly impossible to detect the changes.
When the players holding the balls make a particular motion with their
hands, the antagonist players guess m which hand the balls are at the time.
If the guess is wrong it counts one in favor of the playing party. If the
guess is right, then it counts one in favor of the guessing party, and the
balls are transferred to them. The count of the game is kept with sticks.
During the progress of the game, all concerned keep up a continual
monotonous grunting, with a movement of their bodies to keep time with their
grunts. The articles which are staked on the game are placed in the centre
of the ring.
The laboring or field Indians about the fort are fed upon the offal of
slaughtered animals, and upon the bran sifted from the ground wheat. This is
boiled in large iron kettles. It is then placed in wooden troughs standing
in the court, around which the several messes seat themselves and scoop out
with their hands this poor fodder. Bad as it is, they eat it with an
apparent high relish; and no doubt it is more palatable and more healthy
than the acorn, mush, or atóle,
which constitutes the principal food of these Indians in their wild state.
The wheat crop of Captain Sutter, the present year, (1846,) is about
eight thousand bushels. The season has not been a favorable one. The average
yield to the acre Captain S. estimates at twenty-five bushels. In favorable
seasons this yield is doubled; and if we can believe the statements often
made upon respectable authority, it is sometimes quadrupled. There is no
doubt that in favorable seasons, that is when the rains fall abundantly
during the winter, the yield of wheat, and all small grains in California,
is much greater per acre of land than in any part of the United States. The
wheat-fields of Captain S. are secured against the cattle and horses by
ditches. Agriculture, among the native Californians, is in a very primitive
state, and although Captain S. has introduced some Amen-can implements,
still his ground is but imperfectly cultivated. With good cultivation the
crops would be more certain and much more abundant. The crop from the same
ground the second and third years, without sowing, is frequently very good.
Wheat is selling at the fort at two dollars and fifty cents per fanega,
rather more than two bushels English measure. It brings the same price when
delivered at San Francisco, near the mouth of the Bay of San Francisco. It
is transported from the Sacramento valley to a market in launches of about
fifty tons burden. Unbolted flour sells at eight dollars per one hundred
pounds. The reason of this high price is the scarcity of flouring-mills in
the country. The mills which are now going up in various places will reduce
the price of flour, and probably they will soon be able to grind all the
wheat raised in the country. The streams of California afford excellent
water-power, but the flour consumed by Captain Sutter is ground by a very
ordinary horse-mill.
I saw near the fort a small patch of hemp, which had been sown as an
experiment, in the spring, and had not been irrigated. I never saw a ranker
growth of hemp in Kentucky. Vegetables of several kinds appeared to be
abundant and in perfection, but I shall speak more particularly of the
agricultural productions of California in another place, when my knowledge
of the country and its resources becomes, from observation, more general and
perfect.
Captain Sutter’s dining-room and his table furniture do not present a
very luxurious appearance. The room is unfurnished, with the exception of a
common deal table standing in the centre, and some benches, which are
substitutes for chairs. The table, when spread, presented a correspondingly
primitive simplicity of aspect and of viands. The first course consisted of
good soup, served to each guest in a china bowl with silver spoons. The
bowls, after they had been used for this purpose, were taken away and
cleansed by the Indian servant, and were afterwards used as tumblers or
goblets, from which we drank our water. The next course consisted of two
dishes of meat, one roasted and one fried, and both highly seasoned with
onions. Bread, cheese, butter, and melons, constituted the desert. I am thus
particular because I wish to convey as accurately as I can the style and
mode of living in California of intelligent gentlemen of foreign birth, who
have been accustomed to all the luxuries of the most refined civilization.
It is not for the purpose of criticising, but to show how destitute the
people of this naturally favored country have been of many of the most
common comforts of domestic life, owing to the wretched system of government
which has heretofore existed. Such has been the extortion of the government
in the way of impost-duties, that few supplies which are included among even
the most ordinary elegancies of life, have ever reached the inhabitants, and
for these they have been compelled to pay prices that would be astonishing
to a citizen of the United States or of Europe, and such as have
impoverished the population. As a general fact, they cannot be obtained at
any price, and hence those who have the ability to purchase are compelled to
forego their use from necessity.
With our appetites, however, we enjoyed the dinner as much as if it had
been served up in the most sumptuously-furnished dining-saloon, with all the
table appurtenances of polished silver, sparkling crystal, and snow-like
porcelain. By our long journey we had learned to estimate the value of a
thing for its actual utility and the amount of enjoyment it confers. The day
is not distant when American enterprise and American ingenuity will furnish
those adjuncts of civilization of which California is now so destitute, and
render a residence in this country one of the most luxurious upon the globe.
The conversation at dinner turned upon the events which have recently
occurred in the country, and which I shall narrate in another place.
From the 3d to the 7th of September we remained encamped. Our camp is
near an Indian rancheria. These rancherias consist of a number
of huts constructed of a rib-work or frame of small poles or saplings in a
conical shape, covered with straw, grass, or tule, a species of rush,
which grows to the height of five or six feet. The huts are sometimes
fifteen feet in diameter at their bases, and the number of them grouped
together vary according to the number of the tribe which inhabits them. A
different language in many respects is spoken at the different rancherias.
In this remark I refer to the gentile Indians, as they are here called,
and not to the christianized, the last of whom speak the Spanish. There was
a large gathering at the rancheria on the night of the 6th to
celebrate some event. Dancing, singing, loud shouting, and howling, were
continued without intermission the whole night. One of their orgies
consisted in fixing a scalp upon a pole and dancing around it, accompanying
the dance with, at first, a low melancholy howl, then with loud shrieks and
groans, until the performers appeared to become frantic with excitement of
some kind, it would be difficult to tell what. The noise made by them was
such as to prevent sleep, although a quarter of a mile distant from our
camp.
The Sacramento river, at this point, is a stream nearly half a mile in
width. The tide rises and falls some two or three feet. The water is
perfectly limpid and fresh. The river is said to be navigable for craft of
one hundred tons burden, at all seasons, a hundred miles above this place.
In the season of high waters, from January to July, it is navigable a much
greater distance. The Sacramento rises above latitude 42E
north, and runs from north to south nearly parallel with the coast of
the Pacific, until it empties into the Bay of San Francisco by several
mouths in latitude 38E north. It is fringed
with timber, chiefly oak and sycamore. Grape-vines and a variety of
shrubbery ornament its banks, and give a most charming effect when sailing
upon its placid and limpid current. I never saw a more beautiful stream. In
the rainy season, and in the spring, when the snows on the mountains are
melting, it overfills its banks in many places. It abounds in fish, the most
valuable of which is the salmon. These salmon are the largest and the
fattest I have ever seen. I have seen salmon taken from the Sacramento five
feet in length. All of its tributaries are equally rich in the finny tribe.
American enterprise will soon develop the wealth contained in these streams,
which hitherto has been entirely neglected.
The site of the town of Nueva Helvetia, which has been laid out by
Captain Sutter, is about a mile and a half from the Sacramento. It is on an
elevation of the plain, and not subject to overflow when the waters of the
river are at their highest known point. There are now but three or four
small houses in this town, but I have little doubt that it will soon become
a place of importance.
Near the embarcadero of New Helvetia is a large Indian
"sweat-house," or Temascál, an
appendage of most of the rancherias. The "sweat-house" is the most
important medical agent employed by these Indians. It has, I do not doubt,
the effect of consigning many of them to their graves, long before their
appointed time. A "sweat-house" is an excavation in the earth, to the depth
of six or eight feet, arched over with slabs split from logs. There is a
single small aperture or skylight in the roof. These slabs are covered to
the depth of several feet with earth. There is a narrow entrance, with steps
leading down and into this subterraneous apartment. Rude shelves are erected
around the walls, upon which the invalids repose their bodies. The door is
closed and no air is admitted except from the small aperture in the roof,
through which escapes the smoke of a fire kindled in the centre of the
dungeon. This fire heats the apartment until the perspiration rolls from the
naked bodies of the invalids in streams. I incautiously entered one of these
caverns during the operation above described, and was in a few moments so
nearly suffocated with the heat, smoke, and impure air, that I found it
difficult to make my way out.
In the afternoon of the 7th, we received a note from Captain Sutter,
stating that he had succeeded in obtaining a room in the fort for our
accommodation, and inviting us to accept of it. He sent two servants to
assist in packing our baggage; and accepting the invitation, we took up our
lodgings in the fort. By this change we were relieved from the annoyance of
mosquitoes, which have troubled us much during the night at our encampment.
But with this exception, so long have we been accustomed to sleeping in the
open air, with no shelter but our blankets and the canopy of the heavens,
that our encampment was preferable to our quarters within the confined walls
of the fort.
It is scarcely possible to imagine a more delightful temperature, or a
climate which is more agreeable and uniform. The sky is cloudless, without
the slightest film of vapor apparent in all the vast azure vault. In the
middle of the day the sun shines with great power, but in the shade it is
nowhere uncomfortable. At night, so pure is the atmosphere, that the moon
gives a light sufficiently powerful for the purposes of the reader or
student who has good eyesight. There is no necessity of burning the
"midnight oil." Nature here, lights the candle for the bookworm.
On the 9th, we commenced preparations for leaving the fort, for San
Francisco, a journey by land of about two hundred miles. Our intention was
to leave early the next morning. While thus engaged, some couriers arrived
from the settlements on the Sacramento, about one hundred miles north, with
the startling information that one thousand Walla-Walla Indians, from
Oregon, had made their appearance in the valley, for hostile purposes. The
couriers, who were themselves settlers, appeared to be in great alarm, and
stated that they had seen the advance party of the Walla-Wallas, and that
their object was to assault the fort for a murder which they alleged had
been committed one or two years since, by an American upon a chief of their
tribe, and for some indebtedness of Captain Sutter to them, in cattle, &c.
In the event of a failure in their assault upon the fort, then they intended
to drive off all the cattle belonging to the settlers in the valley. This
was the substance of their information. It was so alarming, that we
postponed at once our departure for San Francisco, and volunteered such
assistance as we could render in defending the fort against this formidable
invasion.
The Walla-Wallas are a powerful and warlike tribe of Indians, inhabiting
a district of country on the Columbia river. They are reported to be good
marksmen and fight with great bravery and desperation. Their warriors are
armed with good rifles and an abundance of ammunition, which they procure
from the Hudson’s Bay Company. They are rapidly advancing in civilization,
and many of them have good farms under cultivation, with numerous herds of
cattle and horses.
Couriers were immediately dispatched in every direction to apprize the
settlers in the valley of the invasion, and to the nearest military posts,
for such assistance as they could render under the circumstances. The twelve
pieces of artillery by which the fort is defended were put in order, and all
inside were busily employed in preparing for the expected combat. Indian
spies were also dispatched to reconnoitre and discover the position and
actual number of the invaders.
The spies returned to the fort on the 11th without having seen the
Walla-Walla invaders. A small party of some ‘forty or fifty only, are
supposed to be about twenty-five or thirty miles distant, on the opposite
side of the Sacramento. On the twelfth, Lieut. Revere of the Navy, with a
party of twenty-five men, arrived at the fort from Sonoma, to reinforce the
garrison; and on the morning of the thirteenth, it having been pretty well
ascertained that the reported 1000 hostile Walla-Wallas were a small party
only of men, women, and children, whose disposition was entirely pacific, we
determined to proceed immediately on our journey to San Francisco.
Geographical sketch of California – Its political and
social institutions –
Colorado River – Valley and river of San Joaquin – Former Government–
Presidios – Missions – Ports and commerce.
Before proceeding farther in my travels through Upper California, for the
general information of the reader, it will be proper to give a brief
geographical sketch of California, and some account of its political and
social institutions, as they have heretofore existed.
The district of country known geographically as Upper California is
bounded on the north by Oregon, the forty-second degree of north latitude
being the boundary line between the two territories; on the east by the
Rocky Mountains and the Sierra de los Mimbres, a continuation of the same
range; on the south by Sonora and Old or Lower California, and on the west
by the Pacific Ocean. Its extent from north to south is about 700 miles, and
from east to west from 600 to 800 miles, with an area of about 400,000
square miles. A small portion only of this extensive territory is fertile or
inhabitable by civilized man, and this portion consists chiefly in the strip
of country along the Pacific Ocean, about 700 miles in length, and from 100
to 150 in breadth, bounded on the east by the Sierra Nevada, and on the west
by the Pacific. In speaking of Upper California this strip of country is
what is generally referred to.
The largest river of Upper California is the Colorado or Red, which has a
course of about 1000 miles, and empties into the Gulf of California in
latitude about 32̊ north. But little is
known of the region through which this stream flows. The report of trappers,
however, is that the river is caZoned
between high mountains and precipices a large portion of its course, and
that its banks and the country generally through which it flows are arid,
sandy, and barren. Green and Grand Rivers are its principal upper
tributaries, both of which rise in the Rocky Mountains, and within the
territories of the United States. The Gila is its lowest and largest branch,
emptying into the Colorado, just above its mouth. Sevier and Virgin Rivers
are also tributaries of the Colorado. Mary’s River rises near latitude 42̊
north, and has a course of about 400 miles, when its waters sink in the
sands of the desert, This river is not laid down on any map which I have
seen. The Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers have each a course of from 300
to 400 miles, the first flowing from the north and the last from the south,
and both emptying into the Bay of St. Francisco at the same point. They
water the large and fertile valley lying between the Sierra Nevada and the
coast range of mountains. I subjoin a description of the valley and river
San Joaquin, from the pen of a gentleman (Dr. Marsh) who has explored the
river from its source to its mouth.
"This noble valley is the first undoubtedly in California, and one of the
most magnificent in the world. It is about 500 miles long, with an average
width of about fifty miles. It is bounded on the east by the great Snowy
Mountains, and on the west by the low range, which in many places dwindles
into insignificant hills, and has its northern terminus at the Strait of
Carquines, on the Bay of San Francisco, and its southern near the Colorado
River.
"The river of San Joaquin flows through the middle of the valley for
about half of its extent, and thence diverges towards the eastern mountain,
in which it has its source. About sixty miles further south is the northern
end of the Buena Vista Lake, which is about one hundred miles long, and from
ten to twenty wide. Still farther south, and near the western side of the
valley, is another and much smaller lake.
"The great lake receives about a dozen tributaries on its eastern side,
which all rise in the great range of the Snowy Mountains. Some of these
streams flow through broad and fertile valleys within the mountain’s range,
and, from thence emerging, irrigate the plains of the great valley for the
distance of twenty or thirty miles. The largest of these rivers is called by
the Spanish inhabitants the river Reyes, and falls into the lake near its
northern end; it is a well-timbered stream, and flows through a country of
great fertility and beauty. The tributaries of the San Joaquin are all on
the east side.
"On ascending the stream we first meet with the Stanislaus, a clear rapid
mountain stream, some forty or fifty yards wide, with a considerable depth
of water in its lower portion. The Mormons have commenced a settlement,
called New Hope, and built some two or three houses near the mouth.
"There are considerable bodies of fertile land along the river, and the
higher plains afford good pasturage.
"Ten miles higher up is the river of the Tawalomes
[Tuolomne]; it is about the size
of the Stanislaus, which it greatly resembles, except that the soil is
somewhat better, and that it particularly abounds with salmon.
"Some thirty miles farther comes in the Merced, much the largest of the
tributaries of the San Joaquin. The lands along and between the tributaries
of the San Joaquin and the lake of Buena Vista form a fine pastoral region,
with a good proportion of arable land, and a very inviting field for
emigration. The whole of this region has been but imperfectly explored;
enough, however, is known to make it certain that it is one of the most
desirable regions on the continent.
"In the valleys of the rivers which come down from the great Snowy
Mountains are vast bodies of pine, and red-wood, or cedar timber, and the
streams afford water power to any desirable amount.
"The whole country east of the San Joaquin, and the water communication
which connects it with the lakes, is considered, by the best judges, to be
particularly adapted to the culture of the vine, which must necessarily
become one of the principal agricultural resources of California."
The Salinas River empties into the Pacific, about twelve miles above
Monterey. Bear River empties into the Great Salt Lake. The other streams of
California are all small. In addition to the Great Salt Lake and the Utah
Lake there are numerous small lakes in the Sierra Nevada. The San Joaquin is
connected with Tule Lake, or Lake Buena Vista, a sheet of water about eighty
miles in length and fifteen in breadth. A lake, not laid down in any map,
and known as the Laguna among the Californians, is situated about sixty
miles north of the Bay of San Francisco. It is between forty and sixty miles
in length. The valleys in its vicinity are highly fertile, and romantically
beautiful. In the vicinity of this lake there is a mountain of pure sulphur.
There are also soda springs, and a great variety of other mineral waters,
and minerals.
The principal mountains west of the eastern boundary of California (the
Rocky Mountains) are the Bear River, Wahsatch, Utah, the Sierra Nevada, and
the Coast range. The Wahsatch Mountains form the eastern rim of the "great
interior basin." There are numerous ranges in this desert basin, all of
which run north and south, and are separated from each other by spacious and
barren valleys and plains. The Sierra Nevada range is of greater elevation
than the Rocky Mountains. The summits of the most elevated peaks are covered
with perpetual snow. This and the coast range run nearly parallel with the
shore of the Pacific. The first is from 100 to 200 miles from the Pacific,
and the last from forty to sixty miles. The valley between them is the most
fertile portion of California.
Upper California was discovered in 1548, by Cabrillo, a Spanish
navigator. In 1578, the northern portion of it was visited by Sir Francis
Drake, who called it New Albion. It was first colonized by the Spaniards, in
1768, and formed a province of Mexico until after the revolution in that
country. There have been numerous revolutions and civil wars in California
within the last twenty years; but up to the conquest of the country by the
United States in 1846, Mexican authority has generally been exercised over
it.
The following description of the political and social condition of Upper
California in 1822 is extracted and translated from a Spanish writer of that
date. I have thought that the extract would not be uninteresting: –
"Government . – Upper California, on account of its small
population, not being able to become a state of the great Mexican republic,
takes the character of territory, the government of which is under the
charge of a commandant-general, who exercises the charge of a superior
political chief, whose attributes depend entirely upon the president of the
republic and the general congress. But, to amplify the legislation of its
centre, it has a deputation made up of seven vocals, the half of these
individuals being removed every two years. The superior political chief
presides at their sessions. The inhabitants of the territory are divided
amongst the presidios, missions, and towns.
"Presidios . – The necessity of protecting the apostolic
predication was the obligatory reason for forming the presidios, which were
established according to circumstances. That of San Diego was the first;
Santa Barbara, Monterey, and San Francisco were built afterwards. The form
of all of them is nearly the same, and this is a square, containing about
two hundred yards in each front, formed of a weak wall made of mud-bricks.
Its height may be four yards in the interior of the square, and built on to
the same wall. In its entire circumference are a chapel, storehouses, and
houses for the commandant, officers, and troops, having at the entrance of
the presidio quarters for a corps-de-garde.
"These buildings in the presidios, at the first idea, appear to have been
sufficient, the only object having been for a defence against a surprise
from the gentiles, or wild Indians in the immediate vicinity. But this cause
having ceased, I believe they ought to be demolished, as they are daily
threatening a complete ruin, and, from the very limited spaces of
habitation, must be very incommodious to those who inhabit them. As to the
exterior of the presidios, several private individuals have built some very
decent houses, and, having evinced great emulation in this branch of
business, I have no doubt but in a short time we shall see very considerable
towns in California.
"At the distance of one, or at the most two miles from the presidio, and
near to the anchoring-ground, is a fort, which has a few pieces of artillery
of small calibre. The situation of most of them is very advantageous for the
defence of the port, though the form of the walls, esplanades, and other
imperfections which may be seen, make them very insignificant.
"The battalion of each presidio is made up of eighty or more horse
soldiers, called cuera ; besides these, it has a number of auxiliary troops
and a detachment of artillery. The commandant of each presidio is the
captain of its respective company, and besides the intervention, military
and political, he has charge of all things relating to the marine
department.
"Missions . – The missions contained in the territory are
twenty-one. They were built at different epochs: that of San Diego, being
the first, was built in 1769; its distance from the presidio of the same
name is two leagues. The rest were built successively, according to
circumstances and necessity. The last one was founded in the year 1822,
under the name of San Francisco Dolores, and is the most northern of all.
"The edifices in some of those missions are more extensive than in
others, but in form they are all nearly equal. They are all fabricated of
mud-bricks, and the divisions are according to necessity. In all of them may
be found commodious habitations for the ministers, storehouses to keep their
goods in, proportional granaries, offices for soap-makers, weavers,
blacksmiths, and large parterres, and horse and cattle pens, independent
apartments for Indian youths of each sex, and all such offices as were
necessary at the time of its institution. Contiguous to and communicating
with the former is a church, forming a part of the edifices of each mission;
they are all very proportionable, and are adorned with profusion.
"The Indians reside about two hundred yards distant from the
above-mentioned edifice. This place is called the rancheria. Most of the
missions are made up of very reduced quarters, built with mud-bricks,
forming streets, while in others the Indians have been allowed to follow
their primitive customs; their dwellings being a sort of huts, in a conical
shape, which at the most do not exceed four yards in diameter, and the top
of the cone may be elevated three yards. They are built of rough sticks,
covered with bulrushes or grass, in such a manner as to completely protect
the inhabitants from all the inclemencies of the weather. In my opinion,
these rancherias are the most adequate to the natural uncleanliness of the
Indians, as the families often renew the, burning the old ones, and
immediately building others with the greatest facility. Opposite the
rancherias, and near to the mission, is to be found a small garrison, with
proportionate rooms, for a corporal and five soldiers with their families.
This small garrison is quite sufficient to prevent any attempt of the
Indians from taking effect, there having been some examples made, which
causes the Indians to respect this small force. One of these pickets in a
mission has a double object; besides keeping the Indians in subjection, they
run post with a monthly correspondence, or with any extraordinaries that may
be necessary for government.
"All the missions in this California are under the charge of religious
men of the order of San Francisco. At the present time their number is
twenty-seven, most of them of an advanced age. Each mission has one of these
fathers for its administrator, and he holds absolute authority. The tilling
of the ground, the gathering of the harvest, the slaughtering of cattle, the
weaving, and everything that concerns the mission, is under the direction of
the fathers, without any other person interfering in any way whatever, so
that, if any one mission has the good fortune to be superintended by an
industrious and discreet padre, the Indians disfrute in abundance all the
real necessaries of life; at the same time the nakedness and misery of any
one mission are a palpable proof of the inactivity of its director. The
missions extend their possessions from one extremity of the territory to the
other, and have made the limits of one mission from those of another. Though
they do not require all this land for their agriculture and the maintenance
of their stock, they have appropriated the whole; always strongly opposing
any individual who may wish to settle himself or his family on any piece of
land between them. But it is to be hoped that the new system of
illustration, and the necessity of augmenting private property, and the
people of reason, will cause the government to take such adequate measures
as will conciliate the interests of all. Amongst all the missions there are
from twenty-one to twenty-two thousand Catholic Indians; but each mission
has not an equal or a proportionate part in its congregation. Some have
three or four thousand, whilst others have scarcely four hundred; and at
this difference may be computed the riches of the missions in proportion.
Besides the number of Indians already spoken of, each mission has a
considerable number of gentiles, who live chiefly on farms annexed to the
missions. The number of these is undetermined.
"The Indians are naturally filthy and careless, and their understanding
is very limited. In the small arts they are not deficient in ideas of
imitation, but they never will be inventors. Their true character is that of
being revengeful and timid, consequently they are very much addicted to
treachery. They have no knowledge of benefits received, and ingratitude is
common amongst them. The education they receive in their infancy is not the
proper one to develope their reason, and, if it were, I do not believe them
capable of any good impression. All these Indians, whether from the
continual use of the sweat-house, or from their filthiness, or the little
ventilation in their habitations, are weak and unvigorous; spasms and
rheumatics, to which they are so much subject, are the consequences of their
customs. But what most injures them, and prevents propagation, is the
venereal disease, which most of them have very strongly, clearly proving
that their humours are analogous to receiving the impressions of this
contagion. From this reason may be deduced the enormous differences between
the births and deaths, which, without doubt, is one-tenth per year in favour
of the latter; but the missionaries do all in their power to prevent this,
with respect to the catechumens situated near them.
"The general productions of the missions are, the breed of the larger
class of cattle, and sheep, horses, wheat, maize or Indian corn, beans,
peas, and other vegetables; though the productions of the missions situated
more to the southward are more extensive, these producing the grape and
olive in abundance. Of all these articles of production, the most lucrative
is the large cattle, their hides and tallow affording an active commerce
with foreign vessels on this coast. This being the only means the
inhabitants, missionaries, or private individuals have of supplying their
actual necessities, for this reason they give this branch all the impulse
they possibly can, and on it generally place all their attention.
"It is now six years since they began to gather in hides and tallow for
commerce. Formerly they merely took care of as many or as much as they
required for their own private use, and the rest was thrown away as useless;
but at this time the actual number of hides sold annually on board of
foreign vessels amounts to thirty or forty thousand, and about the same
amount of arrobas (twenty-five pounds) of tallow; and, in pursuing their
present method, there is not doubt but in three or four years the amount of
the exportation of each of these articles will be doubled. Flax, linen,
wine, olive-oil, grain, and other agricultural productions, would be very
extensive if there were stimulants to excite industry; but, this not being
the case, there is just grain enough sown and reaped for the consumption of
the inhabitant in the territory.
"The towns contained in this district are three; the most populous being
that of Angeles, which has about twelve hundred souls; that of St. Joseph’s
of Guadaloupe may contain six hundred, and the village of Branciforte two
hundred; they are all formed imperfectly and without order, each person
having built his own house on the spot he thought most convenient for
himself. The first of these pueblos is governed by its corresponding body of
magistrates, composed of an alcalde or judge, four regidores or municipal
officers, a syndic, and secretary; the second, of an alcalde, two regidores,
a syndic, and secretary; and the third, on account of the smallness of its
population, is subject to the commandancia of Monterey.
"The inhabitants of the towns are white, and, to distinguish them from
the Indians, are vulgarly called people of reason . The number of these
contained in the territory may be nearly five thousand. These families are
divided amongst the pueblos and presidios. They are nearly all the
descendants of a small number of individuals who came from the Mexican
country, some as settlers, others in the service of the army, and
accompanied by their wives. In the limited space of little more than fifty
years the present generation has been formed.
"The whites are in general robust, healthy, and well made. Some of them
are occupied in breeding and raising cattle, and cultivating small
quantities of wheat and beans; but for want of sufficient land, for which
they cannot obtain a rightful ownership, their labours are very limited.
Others dedicate themselves to the service of arms. All the presidial
companies are composed of the natives of the country, but the most of them
are entirely indolent, it being very rare for any individual to strive to
augment his fortune. Dancing, horse-riding, and gambling occupy all their
time. The arts are entirely unknown, and I am doubtful if there is one
individual who exercises any trade; very few who understand the first
rudiments of letters, and the other sciences are unknown amongst them.
"The fecundity of the people of reason is extreme. It is very rare to
find a married couple with less than five or six children, while there are
hundreds who have from twelve to fifteen. Very few of them die in their
youth, and in reaching the age of puberty are sure to see their
grand-children. The age of eighty and one hundred has always been common in
this climate; most infirmities are unknown here, and the freshness and
robustness of the people show the beneficial influence of the climate; the
women in particular have always the roses stamped on their cheeks. This
beautiful species is without doubt the most active and laborious, all their
vigilance in duties of the house, the cleanliness of their children, and
attention to their husbands, dedicating all their leisure moments to some
kind of occupation that may be useful towards their maintenance. Their
clothing is always clean and decent, nakedness being entirely unknown in
either sex.
"Ports and Commerce. – There are four ports, principal bays, in
this territory, which take the names of the corresponding presidios. The
best guarded is that of San Diego. That of San Francisco has many
advantages. Santa Barbara is but middling in the best part of the season; at
other times always bad. Besides the above-mentioned places, vessels
sometimes anchor at Santa Cruz, San Luis Obispo, El Refugio, San Pedro, and
San Juan, that they may obtain the productions of the missions nearest these
last-mentioned places; but from an order sent by the minister of war, and
circulated by the commandante-general, we are given to understand that no
foreign vessel is permitted to anchor at any of these places, Monterey only
excepted, notwithstanding the commandante-general has allowed the first
three principal ports to remain open provisionally. Were it not so, there
would undoubtedly be an end to all commerce with California, as I will
quickly show.
"The only motive that induces foreign vessels to visit this coast is for
the hides and tallow which they barter for in the territory. It is well
known, that at any of these parts there is no possibility of realizing any
money, for here it does not circulate. The goods imported by foreign vessels
are intended to facilitate the purchase of the aforesaid articles, well
knowing that the missions have no interest in money, but rather such goods
as are necessary for the Indians, so that several persons who have brought
goods to sell for nothing but money have not been able to sell them. It will
appear very extraordinary that money should not be appreciated in a country
where its value is so well known; but the reason may be easily perceived by
attending to the circumstances of the territory.
"The quantity of hides gathered yearly is about thirty or forty thousand;
and the arrobas of tallow, with very little difference, will be about the
same. Averaging the price of each article at two dollars, we shall see that
the intrinsic value in annual circulation in California is 140,000 dollars.
This sum, divided between twenty-one missions, will give each one 6666
dollars. Supposing the only production of the country converted into money,
with what would the Indians be clothed, and by what means would they be able
to cover a thousand other necessaries? Money is useful in amplifying
speculations; but in California, as yet, there are no speculations, and its
productions are barely sufficient for the absolute necessary consumption.
The same comparison may be made with respect to private individuals, who are
able to gather a few hides and a few arrobas of tallow, these being in small
quantities."
Sketch of the Bear revolution, and first conquest of California by the American troops — Capture of Lieut. De Arce — Capture of Sonoma, by Capt. Merritt and party, on the 14th of July — Proclamation of William B. Ide — Barbarous and brutal murder of Cowie and Fowler — Fourfingered Jack — Capt. Ford’s engagement with the Californians; defeat of the latter — Flight of De La Torre — Proclamations of Castro — Capt. Fremont joins the revolutionists at Sonoma, on the 25th of July — Commodore Sloat’s arrival in California — Raising of the U. S. flag at Monterey, San Francisco, Sonoma, and other places — Proclamation of Com. Sloat — Capt. Fremont occupies San Juan — Castro retreats to the south — Los Angeles captured by Com. Stockton — Com. Stockton’s proclamation.
I DEEM it proper to record here the events which occurred in California
immediately preceding my arrival, and which finally resulted in the conquest
of the country by the United States naval and military forces. For some of
the facts stated, in reference to the revolutionary movement, I am indebted
to ROBERT SEMPLE, Esq., who has been a resident of California for a number
of years, and was himself an eye-witness to, and a participator in, many of
the transactions described.
The population of California, in the spring of 1846, was estimated at
about 10,000, exclusive of Indians. Two thousand of these were supposed to
be foreigners, chiefly from the United States. The latter class had been
rapidly increasing for several years; and it became apparent to the more
intelligent of the Californians, that this population, if suffered to
increase in the same ratio, would, in a few years, change the government and
institutions of the country. A natural jealousy prompted a course of
measures on the part of the government, founded upon apprehensions such as
has been stated, which resulted in precipitating the event they were
intended to guard against.
In 1845 a revolutionary movement, headed by Don José
Castro, Alvarado, Pio Pico, and others, in which the foreigners
participated, resulted in deposing Gen. Micheltorena, governor of California under the appointment of the government of Mexico. After
the deposition of Micheltorena, the gubernatorial office was assumed by
Pico. Gen. Castro, at the same time, assumed the command of the military.
Gen. Castro, soon after he came into power, adopted a policy towards the
foreigners highly offensive. Among his acts was the promulgation of a
proclamation, requiring all Americans to leave the country. This was its
interpretation by the latter. No immediate steps were taken to enforce
this order, and but little attention was paid to it by those to whom it was
addressed. Their intention from the first, however, was, doubtless, to
resist any force that should attempt their expulsion from the country.
About the 1st of June, 1846, an order was issued by Gen. Castro to Lieut.
Francisco de Arcé, commandant of the
garrison at Sonoma, to remove a number of horses, the property of the
government, from the Mission of San Rafael, to his headquarters, then at
Santa Clara. This officer was accompanied by a guard of fourteen men. In the
execution of the order, he was compelled to cross the Sacramento river at
New Helvetia, the nearest point at which the horses could swim the stream.
While travelling in that direction, he was seen by an Indian, who reported
to the American settlers on the Sacramento, that he had seen two or three
hundred armed men advancing up the Sacramento valley. At this time Captain
Fremont, with his exploring party, was encamped at "the Buttes," near
the confluence of the Rio de las Plumas and the Sacramento, and about sixty
or seventy miles above Sutter’s Fort. This officer had previously had some
difficulties with Gen. Castro, and the inference from the information given
by the Indian was, that Castro, at the head of a considerable force, was
marching to attack Captain Fremont. The alarm was spread throughout the
valley with as much celerity as the swiftest horses could convey it, and
most of the settlers joined Captain Fremont at his camp, to assist in his
defence against the supposed meditated attack of Castro. They were met here,
however, by a person (Mr. Knight) who stated that he had seen the party of
Californians in charge of the horses, and conversed with the officer commanding it. Mr. Knight stated that the officer told him, that
Gen. Castro had sent for the horses for the purpose of mounting a battalion
of 200 men, with which he designed to march against the Americans settled in
the Sacramento valley, and to expel them from the country. This being
accomplished, he intended to fortify the Bear River Pass in the California
mountains, and prevent the ingress of the emigrants from the United States
to California. The recent proclamations of Castro gave strong probability to
this report, and the American settlers determined at once to take measures
for their own protection.
After some consultation, it was resolved that a force of sufficient
strength for the purpose should pursue the Californians, and capture the
horses. This measure would weaken Castro, and for the present frustrate his
supposed designs. Twelve men immediately volunteered for the expedition, and
Mr. Merritt, being the eldest of the party, was chosen captain. At daylight
on the morning of the 10th of June, they surprised the party of Californians
under the command of Lieut. De Arcé,
who, without resistance, gave up their arms and the government horses. An
individual travelling with this party claimed six horses as belonging to
himself, which he was allowed to take and depart with, the leader of the
Americans declaring that they would not seize upon or disturb private
property.
The Californians, after they had delivered their arms and horses, were
dismissed with a horse for each to ride, and a message to Gen. Castro, that
if he wished his horses again he must come and get them. The
revolutionary movement on the part of the American foreigners was now fairly
commenced, and it became necessary, in self-defence, for them to prosecute
what they had begun, with vigor. The party being increased to thirty-three
men, still under the command of Mr. Merritt. marched directly to Sonoma, and
on the morning of the 14th of June captured and took possession of that town
and military post. They made prisoners here of Gen. Gaudaloupe, M. Valléjo,
Lieut.-Col. Prudon, and Capt. Don Salvador Valléjo.
The writer from whom the foregoing facts are chiefly compiled, who was a
member of the party, proceeds to say: that "Sonoma was taken without a
struggle, in which place were nine pieces of artillery, about two hundred
stand of small-arms, (public property.) There was also a large amount of
private property and considerable money. A single man cried out, ‘Let us
divide the spoils,’ but a unanimous indignant frown made him shrink from the
presence of honest men; and from that time forward no man dared to hint any
thing like violating the sanctity of a private house or private property. So
far did they carry this principle, that they were unwilling to take the beef
which was offered by the prisoners. General Valléjo
sent for his caballada and offered them fresh horses, which were
accepted, but with the determination of remunerating him as soon as the new
government should be established. The party was composed mostly of hunters,
and such men as could leave home at the shortest notice. They had not time
to dress, even if they had had fine clothes, so that most of them were
dressed in leather hunting-shirts. Taking the whole party together, they
were about as rough-looking a set of men as could be imagined. It is not to
be wondered at that one should feel some dread of falling into their hands,
but the prisoners, instead of being dragged away with rough hands and harsh
treatment, met with nothing but the kindest of treatment aud the most polite
attentions from the whole party; and in fact, before five hours’ ride from
their homes they seemed to feel all confidence, and conversed freely on the
subject of the establishment of a better government, giving their opinions
and their plans without any apparent restraint.
"The writer cannot leave this part of the subject without telling an
anecdote, which will illustrate the character of one of the actors in this
scene. A year or two previous, one of the prisoners, (Salvador Valléjo,)
in an official capacity, had fallen in with Mr. Merritt, the leader of the
revolutionary party, and under the pretence that Mr. Merritt had harbored a
runaway man-of-war’s man, beat him severely with his sword. With all the
keen resentment of a brave man, Mr. Merritt suddenly found this same man in
his power. The blood rushed to his cheeks, and his eyes sparkled; he leaned
forward like a mad tiger in the act of springing upon his prey, and in an
energetic but manly tone, said: ‘When I was your prisoner, you struck me;
now you are my prisoner, I will NOT STRIKE YOU.’ The motives which had
prompted him to act in the present contest, were too high, too holy to
permit him for a moment to suffer his private feelings to bias him in his
public duties. However able may be the pen which shall record these events,
none but those who have witnessed the moderation and discreet deportment of
the little garrison left at Sonoma, can do them justice; for there has been
no time in the history of the world, where men without law, without
officers, without the scratch of a pen, as to the object had in view, have
acted with that degree of moderation and strict observance of the rights of
persons and property as was witnessed on this occasion. Their children, in
generations yet to come, will look back with pleasure upon the commencement
of a revolution carried on by their fathers, upon principles high and holy
as the laws of eternal justice."
A small garrison was left at Sonoma, consisting of about eighteen men,
under command of William B. Ide, which in the course of a few days was
increased to about forty. On the 18th of June, Mr. Ide, by the consent of
the garrison, published a proclamation, setting forth the objects for which
the party had gathered, and the principles which would be adhered to in the
event of their success.
"A Proclamation to all persons and citizens of the district of Sonoma, requesting them to remain at peace, and follow their rightful occupations without fear of molestation.
"The Commander-in-chief of the troops assembled at the fortress of
Sonoma, gives his inviolable pledge to all persons in California, not found
under arms, that they shall not be disturbed in their persons, their
property, or social relations, one with another, by men under his command.
"He also solemnly declares his object to be, first, to defend himself and
companions in arms, who were invited to this country by a promise of lands
on which to settle themselves and families; who were also promised a
Republican Government, when having arrived in California they were denied
the privilege of buying or renting lands of their friends; who, instead of
being allowed to participate in or being protected by a Republican Government,
were oppressed by a military despotism; who were even threatened by
proclamation, by the chief officers of the aforesaid despotism, with
extermination if they should not depart out of the country, leaving all
their property, arms, and beasts of burden; and thus deprived of their means
of flight or defence, we were to be driven through deserts inhabited by
hostile Indians, to certain destruction.
"To overthrow a government which has seized upon the property of the
missions for its individual aggrandizement; which has ruined and shamefully
oppressed the laboring people of California, by their enormous exactions on
goods imported into the country, is the determined purpose of the brave men
who are associated under my command.
"I also solemnly declare my object, in the second place, to be to invite
all peaceable and good citizens of California, who are friendly to the
maintenance of good order and equal rights, and I do hereby invite them to
repair to my camp at Sonoma, without delay, to assist us in establishing and
perpetuating a Republican Government, which shall secure to all civil and
religious liberty; which shall encourage virtue and literature; which shall
leave unshackled by fetters, agriculture, commerce, and manufactures.
"I further declare that I rely upon the rectitude of our intentions, the
favor of Heaven, and the bravery of those who are bound and associated with
me, by the principles of self-preservation, by the love of truth, and the
hatred of tyranny, for my hopes of success.
"I furthermore declare, that I believe that a government to be prosperous
and happy, must originate with the people who are friendly to its existence
; that the citizens are its guardians, the officers its servants, its glory
its reward.
(Signed,) WILLIAM B. IDE.
"Headquarters, Sonoma, June 18th, 1846."
"About the time the foregoing proclamation was issued, two young men, Mr.
T. Cowie and Mr. Fowler, who lived in the neighborhood of Sonoma, started to
go to the Bodega. On their way they were discovered by a small party of
Californians, under the command of one Papilla, and taken prisoners. They
were kept as prisoners for a day and a half, and then tied to trees and cut
to pieces in the most brutal manner. A Californian, known as Four-fingered
Jack, was subsequently captured, and gave the following account of that
horrid scene : — The party, after keeping the prisoners a day or two, tied
them to trees, and stoned them. One of them had his jaw broken. A riata
(rope) was then made fast to the broken bone, and the jaw dragged out.
They were then cut up by piecemeal, and the pieces thrown at them, or
crammed into their throats. They were finally dispatched by cutting out
their bowels!
"Fortunately for humanity, these cold-blooded, savage murders were soon
put to an end, by the very active measures taken by the garrison at Sonoma.
Having heard nothing of the arrival of Cowie and Fowler at their place of
destination, it was suspected that they had been taken and probably killed;
and hearing that three others were prisoners in Papilla’s camp, Captain Ford
(then 1st lieutenant at Sonoma) headed a party of twenty-two men, officers
included, and took the road for the enemy’s camp, which had been reinforced
by Captain Joaquin de la Torre, with seventy men. It was reported that their
headquarters were at Santa Rosa Plains, to which point Ford proceeded.
Finding that they had left, he followed them in the direction of San Rafael;
and after travelling all night, making about sixty miles in sixteen hours,
came up with the enemy twelve miles from San Rafael, where they had stopped
to breakfast.
"The enemy occupied a position at a house on the edge of the plains,
about sixty yards from a small grove of brushwood. Captain Ford, having
several prisoners, left four men to guard them, and with the remainder
advanced upon the enemy. Reaching the brushwood, he directed his party to
tie their horses, and take such positions as would cut off the Californians,
but by no means to fire until they could kill their man; which order was so
well obeyed, that out of twenty or twenty-five shots fired by the Americans,
eleven took effect. Eight of the enemy were killed, two wounded, and one
horse shot through the neck. One party of the Californians, led by a
sergeant, charged up handsomely; but the deadly fire of Ford’s riflemen
forced them to retire, with the loss of the sergeant and several of his men.
The fall of the sergeant seemed to be the signal for retreat. The whole
party retired to a high hill, about a mile from the field of battle. Ford
and his gallant followers waited a short time, and finding that the enemy
showed no disposition to return to the fight, released the prisoners who had
been taken by them, and then went to a corral, where they found a large
caballada of horses, and exchanged their tired horses for fresh ones.
They then returned to Sonoma. The Californians, on this occasion, did not
sustain the reputation they had previously gained. They were eighty-six
strong, while Captain Ford had but eighteen men engaged."
Captain Fremont having heard that Don Jose Castro was crossing the bay
with 200 men, marched and joined the garrison at Sonoma, on the 25th of
June. Several days were spent in active pursuit of the party under Captain
De la Torre, hut they succeeded in crossing the bay before they could be
overtaken. With the retreat of De la Torre, ended all opposition on the
north side of the bay of San Francisco.
On the 17th June, after the receipt of the news of the taking of Sonoma,
Don Jose Castro issued two proclamations, one addressed to the old citizens,
and the other to the new citizens and foreigners. The following are
translations of these proclamations:
The citizen Jose Castro, lieutenant-colonel of cavalry in the Mexican army, and acting general-commander of the department of California.
Fellow-citizens : — The contemptible policy of the agents of the
United States of North America, in this department, has induced a portion of
adventurers, who, regardless of the rights of men, have daringly commenced
an invasion, possessing themselves of the town of Sonoma, taking by surprise
all that place, the military commander of that border, Colonel Don Mariano
Guadaloupe Valléjo, Lieutenant-colonel
Don Victor Prudon, Captain Don Salvador Valléjo,
and Mr. Jacob P. Leese.
Fellow-countrymen — The defence of our liberty, the true religion which
our fathers possessed, and our independence, calls upon us to sacrifice
ourselves, rather than lose these inestimable blessings; banish from your
hearts all petty resentments, turn you, and behold yourselves, these
families, these innocent little ones, which have unfortunately fallen into
the hands of our enemies, dragged from the bosoms of their fathers, who are
prisoners among foreigners, and are calling upon us to succor them. There is
still time for us to rise "en masse," as irresistible as retributive. You
need not doubt but that divine providence will direct us in the way to
glory. You should not vacillate because of the smallness of the garrison of
the general headquarters, for he who first will sacrifice himself will be
your friend and fellow citizen.
JOSE CASTRO.
HEADQUARTERS, SANTA CLARA, June 17th, 1846.
Citizen Jose Castro, lieutenant-colonel of artillery in the Mexican army,
and acting general-commander of the department of Upper California.
All foreigners residing among us, occupied with their business, may rest
assured of the protection of all the authorities of the department, whilst
they refrain entirely from all revolutionary movements.
The general commandancia under my charge will never proceed with vigor
against any persons, neither will its authority result in mere words,
wanting proof to support it; declaration shall be taken, proofs executed,
and the liberty and rights of the laborious, which is ever commendable,
shall be protected.
Let the fortune of war take its chance with those ungrateful men, who,
with arms in their hands, have attacked the country, without recollecting
they were treated by the undersigned with all the indulgence of which he is
so characteristic. The imparative inhabitants of the department are
witnesses to the truth of this. I have nothing to fear — my duty leads me to
death or to victory. I am a Mexican soldier, and I will be free and
independent, or I will gladly die for these inestimable blessings.
JOSE CASTRO.
HEADQUARTERS, SANTA CLARA, June 17th, 1846.
Captain Fremont, with about 170 men, after the retreat of De la Torre,
returned, via Sonoma, to the mouth of the Rio de los Americanos, near
Sutter’s Fort, for the purpose of crossing his horses and baggage at that
point, and then marching to Santa Clara, understood to be the headquarters
of General Castro.
A small party of ten men commanded by R. Semple was ordered to cross the
Bay of San Francisco to the town of San Francisco, and if practicable to
make prisoner the captain of the Port, Mr. R. T. Ridley. This service was
performed, and Mr. Ridley was conveyed to New Helvetia, where the other
prisoners were confined. The party reached New Helvetia on the eighth of
July.
Commodore Sloat arrived at Monterey in the United States Frigate
Savannah, on the second of July. He had heard of the first difficulties
between the Mexican and the United States forces on the Rio Grande, at
Mazatlan, but had not heard of the declaration of Congress that war existed.
On the seventh of July he determined to hoist the American flag in Monterey,
which act was performed by Capt. Mervine, commanding 250 marines and seamen.
After the raising of the flag, amidst the cheers of the troops and
foreigners present, a salute of twentyone guns was fired by all the ships in
the harbor, and the following proclamation was read and posted in English
and Spanish:
TO THE INHABITANTS OF CALIFORNIA.
The central government of Mexico having commenced hostilities against the
United States of America, by invading its territory, and attacking the
troops of the United States stationed on the north side of the Rio Grande,
and with a force of 7000 men under the command of Gen. Arista, which army
was totally destroyed, and all their artillery, baggage, &c., captured on
the eighth and ninth of May last, by a force of 2300 men, under the command
of Gen. Taylor, and the city of Matamoras taken and occupied by the forces
of the United States, and the two nations being actually at war by this
transaction, I shall hoist the standard of the United States at Monterey
immediately, and shall carry it throughout California.
I declare to the inhabitants of California, that, although I come in arms
with a powerful force, I do not come among them as an enemy to California:
on the contrary, I come as their best friend, as henceforth California will
be a portion of the United States, and its peaceable inhabitants will enjoy
the same rights and privileges they now enjoy, together with the privilege
of choosing their own magistrates, and other officers for the administration
of justice among themselves, and the same protection will be extended to
them as to any other State in the Union. They will also enjoy a permanent
government, under which life, property, and the constitutional right and
lawful security to worship the Creator in the way most congenial to each
one’s sense of duty, will be secured, which, unfortunately, the central
government of Mexico cannot afford them, destroyed as her resources are by
internal factious and corrupt officers, who create constant revolutions to
promote their own interests and oppress the people. Under the flag of the
United States, California will be free from all such troubles and expenses;
consequently, the country will rapidly advance and improve both in
agriculture and commerce, as, of course, the revenue laws will be the same
in California as in all other parts of the United States, affording them all
manufactures and produce of the United States, free of any duty, and all
foreign goods at one quarter of the duty they now pay. A great increase in
the value of real estate and the products of California may also be
anticipated.
With the great interest and kind feelings I know the government and
people of the United States possess towards the citizens of California, the
country cannot but improve more rapidly than any other on the continent of
America.
Such of the inhabitants of California, whether native or foreigners, as
may not be disposed to accept the high privileges of citizenship, and to
live peaceably under the government of the United States, will be allowed
time to dispose of their property, and to remove out of the country, if they
choose, without any restriction; or remain in it, observing strict
neutrality.
With full confidence in the honor and integrity of the inhabitants of the
country, I invite the judges, alcaldes, and other civil officers, to execute
their functions as heretofore, that the public tranquillity may not be
disturbed; at least until the government of the territory can be more
definitely arranged.
All persons holding titles to real estate, or in quiet possession of
lands under color of right, shall have those titles guarantied to them.
All churches and the property they contain in possession of the clergy of
California, shall continue in the same rights and possession they now enjoy.
All provisions and supplies of every kind furnished by the inhabitants
for the use of the United States ships and soldiers, will be paid for at
fair rates; and no private property will be taken for public use without
just compensation at the moment.
JOHN D. SLOAT,
Commander-in-chief of the U. S. Naval force in the Pacific Ocean.
On the sixth of July, Commodore Sloat dispatched a courier to Commander
Montgomery of the sloop-of-war Portsmouth, lying at San Francisco, notifying
him of his intention to hoist the American flag at Monterey, and requiring
him, if his force was sufficient, to do the same at San Francisco and
elsewhere in the upper portion of the territory. On the morning of the
eighth, Coin. Montgomery at the head of seventy sailors and marines landed
and hoisted the American flag in the public square, under a salute of
twenty-one guns from the Portsmouth. A volunteer corps of American
foreigners was immediately organized for the defence of the place.
On the tenth, a flag dispatched by Com. Montgomery to Sonoma was received
and raised there with shouts of satisfaction from the revolutionary
garrison. The United States flag was soon after unfurled, without serious
opposition, at every principal place in the northern part of California.
On the eighth, the next day after the raising of the United States flag
at Monterey, Purser Fauntleroy, of the Savannah, was ordered to organize a
company of dragoons, volunteers from the ships and citizens on shore, to
reconnoitre the country and keep the communication open between Monterey and
the more northern posts, in possession of the Americans. On the seventeenth,
this corps marched to the Mission of San Juan, about thirty miles east of
Monterey, for the purpose of raising at that place the United States flag,
and of taking possession of guns and other munitions said to have been
concealed there.
Capt. Fremont having left his position on the Sacramento on the twelfth,
had reached San Juan about an hour before Purser Fauntleroy, and taken
possession of the Mission without opposition. There were found here 9 pieces
of cannon, 200 old muskets, 20 kegs of powder, and 60,000 pounds of
cannon-shot. Both parties marched into Monterey the next day.
The fortification of Monterey was commenced immediately after the raising
of the United States flag. On the twenty-third, Com. Sloat sailed in the
Levant for the United States, via Panama, leaving Com. Stockton, who had
arrived at Monterey in the Congress on the fifteenth, in command of the
Pacific squadron. Immediately after, the Cyane, Com. Dupont, with Capt.
Fremont and volunteers on board, sailed for San Diego, and the frigate
Congress, Com. Stockton, sailed for San Pedro, the port of Los Angeles, the
then capital of California. The frigate Savannah remained at Monterey, and
the sloop Portsmouth at San Francisco.
Gen. Castro in the mean time had formed a junction at Santa Barbara with
Gov. Pio Pico, their joint forces numbering about 600. From Santa Barbara
they marched to Los Angeles, arriving at that place early in August. Capt.
Fremont with the volunteers landed at San Diego about the same time. San
Diego is 130 miles south of Los Angeles, and Com. Stockton landed his force
of marines and sailors from the Congress at San Pedro. Com. Stockton marched
immediately towards Los Angeles, hauling his artillery with oxen. As he
approached the camp of the enemy on the Mesa, they fled with precipitation
and without making any resistance. The Commodore marched into the city of
Angels and took possession of it and the public property without opposition.
Capt. Fremont, owing to the difficulty of procuring horses, did not arrive
at Los Angeles until several days after the occupation of the town by Com.
Stockton. Castro with a few followers fled to Sonora.
On the 1lth of August Commodore Stockton issued the following
proclamation, declaring California in the full and peaceable possession of
the United States, and authorizing and requesting the election of civil
officers throughout the country.
TO THE PEOPLE OF CALIFORNIA.
On my approach to this place with the forces under my command, José
Castro, the commandant-general of California, buried his artillery and
abandoned his fortified camp "of the Mesa," and fled, it is believed,
towards Mexico.
With the sailors, the marines, and the California battalion of mounted
riflemen, we entered the "City of the Angeles," the capital of California,
on the 13th of August, and hoisted the North American flag.
The flag of the United States is now flying from every commanding
position in the territory, and California is entirely free from Mexican
dominion.
The territory of California now belongs to the United States, and will be
governed, as soon as circumstances may permit, by officers and laws similar
to those by which the other territories of the United States are regulated
and protected.
But, until the governor, the secretary, and council are appointed, and
the various civil departments of the government are arranged, military law
will prevail, and the commander-in-chief will be the governor and protector
of the territory.
In the mean time the people will be permitted, and are now requested, to
meet in their several towns and departments, at such time and place as they
may see fit, to elect civil officers to fill the places of those who decline
to continue in office, and to administer the laws according to the former
usages of the territory.
In all cases where the people fail to elect, the commander-in-chief and
governor will make the appointments himself.
All persons, of whatever religion or nation, who faithfully adhere to the
new government, will be considered as citizens of the territory, and will be
zealously and thoroughly protected in the liberty of conscience, their
persons, and property.
No persons will be permitted to remain in the territory who do not agree
to support the existing government; and all military men who desire to
remain, are required to take an oath that they will not take up arms against
it, or do or say any thing to disturb its peace.
Nor will any persons, come from where they may, be permitted to settle in
the territory, who do not pledge themselves to be, in all respects, obedient
to the laws which may be from time to time enacted by the proper authorities
of the territory. All persons who, without special permission, are found
with arms, outside of their own houses, will be considered as enemies, and
will be shipped out of the country.
All thieves will be put to hard labor on the public works, and there
kept, until compensation is made for the property stolen.
The California battalion of mounted riflemen will be kept in the service
of the territory, and constantly on duty, to prevent and punish any
aggressions by the Indians, or any other persons, upon the property of
individuals, or the peace of the territory; and California shall hereafter
be so governed and defended as to give security to the inhabitants, and to
defy the power of Mexico.
All persons are required, as long as the territory is under martial law,
to be within their houses from ten o’clock at night until sunrise in the
morning.
R. F. STOCKTON,
Commander-in-Chief, and Governor of the Territory of California.
CIUDAD DE LOS ANGELES,
August 17th, 1846.
Resume my travels – Leave New Helvetia for San Francisco – Cosçumne River – Mickélemes River – Ford of the San Joaquin – Extensive plain – Tule marshes – Large droves of wild horses and elk – Arrive at Dr. Marsh’s – Vineyard – Californian grape – Californian wine– Aguardiénte– Mormon settlements on the San Joaquin – Californian beef – Cattle – Grasses of California – Horses – Breakfast – Leave Dr. Marsh’s – Arrive at Mr. Livermore’s – Comforts of his dwelling – Large herds of cattle – Sheep – Swine – Californian senora – Slaughtering of a bullock – Fossil oyster-shells – Skeleton of a whale on a high mountain – Arrive at mission of San José – Ruinous and desolate appearance of the mission – Pedlars – Landlady – Filth – Gardens of the mission – Fruit orchards – Empty warehouses and workshops – Foul lodgings.
September 13th – We commenced to-day our journey from New Helvetia to San Francisco. Our party consisted, including myself of Colonel Russell. Dr. McKee of Monterey, Mr. Pickett, a traveller in the country, recently from Oregon, and an Indian servant, who had been furnished us by Captain Sutter. Starting about 3 o’clock P.M., we travelled in a south course over a flat plain until sunset, and encamped near a small lake on the rancho of Mr. Murphy, near the Cosçumne River, a tributary of the Sacramento, which heads near the foot of the Sierra Nevada. The stream is small, but the bottom-lands are extensive and rich. Mr. Murphy has been settled in California about two years, and, with his wife and several children, has resided at this place sixteen months, during which time he has erected a comfortable dwelling-house, and other necessary buildings and conveniences. His wheat crop was abundant this year; and he presented us with as much milk and fresh butter as we desired. The grass on the upland plain over which we have travelled is brown and crisp from the annual drought. In the low bottom it is still green. Distance 18 miles.
September 14. – We crossed the Cosçumne
River about a mile from our camp, and travelled over a level plain covered
with luxuriant grass, and timbered with the evergreen oak until three
o’clock, when we crossed the Mickélemes
River, another tributary of the Sacramento, and encamped on its southern
bank in a beautiful grove of live oaks. The Mickélemes,
where we crossed it, is considerably larger than the Cosçumnes.
The soil of the bottom appears to be very rich, and produces the finest
qualities of grasses. The grass on the upland is also abundant, but at this
time it is brown and dead. We passed through large tracts of wild oats
during the day; the stalks are generally from three to five feet in length.
Our Indian servant, or vaquero, feigned sickness this morning, and we
discharged him. As soon as he obtained his discharge, he was entirely
relieved from the excruciating agonies under which he had affected to be
suffering for several hours. Eating his breakfast, and mounting his horse,
he galloped off in the direction of the fort. We overtook this afternoon an
English sailor, named Jack, who was travelling towards Monterey; and we
employed him as cook and hostler for the remainder of the journey.
A variety of autumnal flowers, generally of a brilliant yellow, are in
bloom along the beautiful and romantic banks of the rivulet. Distance 25
miles.
September 15. – Our horses were frightened last night by bears, and this morning, with the exception of those which were picketed, had strayed so far that we did not recover them until ten o’clock. Our route has continued over a flat plain, generally covered with luxuriant grass, wild oats, and a variety of sparkling flowers. The soil is composed of a rich argillaceous loam. Large tracts of the land are evidently subject to annual inundations. About noon we reached a small lake surrounded by tule . There being no trail for our guidance, we experienced some difficulty in shaping our course so as to strike the San Joaquin River at the usual fording place. Our man Jack, by some neglect or mistake of his own, lost sight of us, and we were compelled to proceed without him. This afternoon we saw several large droves of antelope and deer. Game of all kinds appears to be very abundant in this rich valley. Passing through large tracts of tule, we reached the San Joaquin River at dark, and encamped on the eastern bank. Here we immediately made large fires, and discharged pistols as signals to our man Jack, but he did not come into camp. Distance 35 miles.
September 16. – Jack came into camp while we were breakfasting, leading
his tired horse. He had bivouacked on the plain, and, fearful that his horse
would break loose if he tied him, he held the animal by the bridle all
night.
The ford of the San Joaquin is about forty or fifty miles from its mouth.
At this season the water is at its lowest stage. The stream at the ford is
probably one hundred yards in breadth, and our animals crossed it without
much difficulty, the water reaching about midway of their bodies. Oak and
small willows are the principal growth of wood skirting the river. Soon
after we crossed the San Joaquin this morning we met two men, couriers,
bearing despatches from Commodore Stockton, the governor and
commander-in-chief in California, to Sutter’s Fort. Entering upon the broad
plain, we passed, in about three miles, a small lake, the water of which was
so much impregnated with alkali as to be undrinkable. The grass is brown and
crisp, but the seed upon it is evidence that it had fully matured before the
drought affected it. The plain is furrowed with numerous deep trails, made
by the droves of wild horses, elk, deer, and antelope, which roam over and
graze upon it. The hunting sportsman can here enjoy his favourite pleasure
to its fullest extent.
Having determined to deviate from our direct course, in order to visit
the rancho of Dr. Marsh, we parted from Messrs. M`Kee and Pickett about
noon. We passed during the afternoon several tule marshes, with which the
plain of the San Joaquin is dotted. At a distance, the tule of these marshes
presents the appearance of immense fields of ripened corn. The marshes are
now nearly dry, and to shorten our journey we crossed several of them
without difficulty. A month earlier, this would not have been practicable. I
have but little doubt that these marshes would make fine rice plantations,
and perhaps, if properly drained, they might produce the sugar-cane.
While pursuing our journey we frequently saw large droves of wild horses
and elk grazing quietly upon the plain. No spectacle of moving life can
present a more animated and beautiful appearance than a herd of wild horses.
They were divided into droves of some one or two hundred. When they noticed
us, attracted by curiosity to discover what we were, they would start and
run almost with the fleetness of the wind in the direction towards us. But,
arriving within a distance of two hundred yards, they would suddenly halt,
and after bowing their necks into graceful curves, and looking steadily at
us a few moments, with loud snortings they would wheel about and bound away
with the same lightning speed. These evolutions they would repeat several
times, until, having satisfied their curiosity, they would bid us a final
adieu, and disappear behind the undulations of the plain.
The herds of elk were much more numerous. Some of them numbered at least
two thousand, and with their immense antlers presented, when running, a very
singular and picturesque appearance. We approached some of these herds
within fifty yards before they took the alarm. Beef in California is so
abundant, and of so fine a quality, that game is but little hunted, and not
much prized. Hence the elk, deer, and even antelope are comparatively very
tame, and rarely run from the traveller, unless he rides very near them.
Some of these elk are as large as a medium sized Mexican mule.
We arrived at the rancho of Dr. Marsh about 5 o’clock P.M., greatly
fatigued with the day’s ride. The residence of Dr. M. is romantically
situated, near the foot of one of the most elevated mountains in the range
separating the valley of the San Joaquin from the plain surrounding the Bay
of San Francisco. It is called "Mount Diablo," and may be seen in clear
weather a great distance. The dwelling of Dr. M. is a small one-story house,
rudely constructed of adobes, and divided into two or three apartments. The
flooring is of earth, like the walls. A table or two, and some benches and a
bed, are all the furniture it contains. Such are the privations to which
those who settle in new countries must submit. Dr. M. is a native of New
England, a graduate of Harvard University, and a gentleman of fine natural
abilities and extensive scientific and literary acquirements. He emigrated
to California some seven or eight years since, after having travelled
through most of the Mexican States. He speaks the Spanish language fluently
and correctly, and his accurate knowledge of Mexican institutions, laws, and
customs was fully displayed in his conversation in regard to them. He
obtained the grant of land upon which he now resides, some ten or twelve
miles square, four or five years ago; and although he has been constantly
harassed by the wild Indians, who have several times stolen all his horses,
and sometimes numbers of his cattle, he has succeeded in permanently
establishing himself. The present number of cattle on his rancho is about
two thousand, and the increase of the present year he estimates at five
hundred.
I noticed near the house a vegetable garden, with the usual variety of vegetables. In another inclosure was the commencement of an extensive vineyard, the fruit of which (now ripe) exceeds in delicacy of flavour any grapes which I have ever tasted. This grape is not indigenous, but was introduced by the padres, when they first established themselves in the country. The soil and climate of California have probably improved it. Many of the clusters are eight and ten inches in length, and weigh several pounds. The fruit is of medium size, and in colour a dark purple. The rind is very thin, and when broken the pulp dissolves in the mouth immediately. Although Dr. M. has just commenced his vineyard, he has made several casks of wine this year, which is now in a state of fermentation. I tasted here, for the first time, aguardiénte, or brandy distilled from the Californian grape. Its flavour is not unpleasant, and age, I do not doubt, would render it equal to the brandies of France. Large quantities of wine and aguardiénte are made from the extensive vineyards farther south. Dr. M. informed me that his lands had produced a hundredfold of wheat without irrigation. This yield seems almost incredible; but, if we can believe the statements of men of unimpeached veracity, there have been numerous instances of reproduction of wheat in California equalling and even exceeding this.
Some time in July, a vessel arrived at San Francisco from New York, which had been chartered and freighted principally by a party of Mormon emigrants, numbering between two and three hundred, women and children included. These Mormons are about making a settlement for agricultural purposes on the San Joaquin River, above the rancho of Dr. Marsh. Two of the women and one of the men are now here, waiting for the return of the main party, which has gone up the river to explore and select a suitable site for the settlement. The women are young, neatly dressed, and one of them may be called good looking. Captain Gant, formerly of the U.S. army, in very bad health, is also residing here. He has crossed the Rocky Mountains eight times, and, in various trapping excursions, has explored nearly every river between the settlements of the United States and the Pacific Ocean.
The house of Dr. Marsh being fully occupied, we made our beds in a shed, a short distance from it. Suspended from one of the poles forming the frame of this shed was a portion of the carcass of a recently slaughtered beef. The meat was very fat, the muscular portions of it presenting that marbled appearance, produced by a mixture of the fat and lean, so agreeable to the sight and palate of the epicure. The horned cattle of California, which I have thus far seen, are the largest and the handsomest in shape which I ever saw. There is certainly no breed in the United States equalling them in size. They, as well as the horses, subsist entirely on the indigenous grasses, at all seasons of the year; and such are the nutritious qualities of the herbage, that the former are always in condition for slaughtering, and the latter have as much flesh upon them as is desirable, unless (which is often the case) they are kept up at hard work and denied the privilege of eating, or are broken down by hard riding. The varieties of grass are very numerous, and nearly all of them are heavily seeded when ripe, and are equal, if not superior, as food for animals, to corn and oats. The horses are not as large as the breeds of the United States, but in point of symmetrical proportions and in capacity for endurance they are fully equal to our best breeds. The distance we have travelled to-day I estimate at thirty-five miles.
September 17. – The temperature of the mornings is most agreeable, and
every other phenomenon accompanying it is correspondingly delightful to the
senses. Our breakfast consisted of warm bread, made of unbolted flour,
stewed beef, seasoned with chile colorado, a species of red pepper, and
frijoles, a dark-coloured bean, with coffee. After breakfast I walked with
Dr. Marsh to the summit of a conical hill, about a mile distant from his
house, from which the view of the plain on the north, south, and east, and
the more broken and mountainous country on the west, is very extensive and
picturesque. The hills and the plain are ornamented with the evergreen oak,
sometimes in clumps or groves, at others standing solitary. On the summits,
and in the gorges of the mountains, the cedar, pine, and fir display their
tall symmetrical shapes; and the San Joaquin, at a distance of about ten
miles, is belted by a dense forest of oak, sycamore, and smaller timber and
shrubbery. The herds of cattle are scattered over the plain, – some of them
grazing upon the brown but nutritious grass; others sheltering themselves
from the sun under the wide-spreading branches of the oaks. The tout
ensemble of the landscape is charming.
Leaving Dr. Marsh’s about three o’clock P.M., we travelled fifteen miles,
over a rolling and well-watered country, covered generally with wild oats,
and arrived at the residence of Mr. Robert Livermore just before dark. We
were most kindly and hospitably received, and entertained by Mr. L. and his
interesting family. After our mules and baggage had been cared for, we were
introduced to the principal room in the house, which consisted of a number
of small adobe buildings, erected apparently at different times, and
connected together. Here we found chairs, and, for the first time in
California, saw a side-board set out with glass tumblers and chinaware. A
decanter of aguardiénte, a bowl of loaf
sugar, and a pitcher of cold water from the spring, were set before us, and,
being duly honoured, had a most reviving influence upon our spirits as well
as our corporeal energies. Suspended from the walls of the room were
numerous coarse engravings, highly coloured with green, blue, and crimson
paints, representing the Virgin Mary, and many of the saints. These
engravings are held in great veneration by the devout Catholics of this
country. In the corners of the room were two comfortable-looking beds, with
clean white sheets and pillow-cases, a sight with which my eyes have not
been greeted for many months.
The table was soon set out, and covered with a linen cloth of snowy
whiteness, upon which were placed dishes of stewed beef, seasoned with chile
colorado, frijoles, and a plentiful supply of tortillas, with an excellent
cup of tea, to the merits of which we did ample justice. Never were men
blessed with better appetites than we are at the present time.
Mr. Livermore has been a resident of California nearly thirty years, and,
having married into one of the wealthy families of the country, is the
proprietor of some of the best lands for tillage and grazing. An arroyo, or
small rivulet fed by springs, runs through his rancho, in such a course
that, if expedient, he could, without much expense, irrigate one or two
thousand acres. Irrigation in this part of California, however, seems to be
entirely unnecessary for the production of wheat or any of the small grains.
To produce maize, potatoes, and garden vegetables, irrigation is
indispensable. Mr. Livermore has on his rancho about 3500 head of cattle.
His horses, during the late disturbances, have nearly all been driven off or
stolen by the Indians. I saw in his corral a flock of sheep numbering
several hundred. They are of good size, and the mutton is said to be of an
excellent quality, but the wool is coarse. It is, however, well adapted to
the only manufacture of wool that is carried on in the country, – coarse
blankets and serápes . But little
attention is paid to hogs here, although the breeds are as fine as I have
ever seen elsewhere. Beef being so abundant, and of a quality so superior,
pork is not prized by the native Californians.
The Senora L. is the first Hispano-American lady I have seen since
arriving in the country. She was dressed in a white cambric robe, loosely
banded round the waist, and without ornament of any kind, except several
rings on her small delicate fingers. Her complexion is that of a dark
brunette, but lighter and more clear than the skin of most Californian
women. The dark lustrous eye, the long black and glossy hair, the natural
ease, grace, and vivacity of manners and conversation, characteristic of
Spanish ladies, were fully displayed by her from the moment of our
introduction. The children, especially two or three little senoritas, were
very beautiful, and manifested a remarkable degree of sprightliness and
intelligence. One of them presented me with a small basket wrought from a
species of tough grass, and ornamented with the plumage of birds of a
variety of brilliant colours. It was a beautiful specimen of Indian
ingenuity.
Retiring to bed about ten o’clock, I enjoyed, the first time for four
months, the luxury of clean sheets, with a mattress and a soft pillow. My
enjoyment, however, was not unmixed with regret, for I noticed that several
members of the family, to accommodate us with lodgings in the house, slept
in the piazza outside. To have objected to sleeping in the house, however,
would have been considered discourteous and offensive.
September 18. – Early this morning a bullock was brought up and
slaughtered in front of the house. The process of slaughtering a beef is as
follows; a vaquero, mounted a trained horse, and provided with a lasso,
proceeds to the place where the herd is grazing. Selecting an animal, he
soon secures it by throwing the noose of the lasso over the horns, and
fastening the other end around the pommel of the saddle. During the first
struggles of the animal for liberty, which usually are very violent, the
vaquero sits firmly in his seat, and keeps his horse in such a position that
the fury and strength of the beast are wasted without producing any other
result than his own exhaustion. The animal, soon ascertaining that he cannot
release himself from the rope, submits to be pulled along to the place of
execution. Arriving here, the vaquero winds the lasso round the legs of the
doomed beast, and throws him to the ground, where he lies perfectly helpless
and motionless. Dismounting from his horse, he then takes from his leggin
the butcher-knife that he always carries with him, and sticks the animal in
the throat. He soon bleeds to death, when, in an incredibly short space of
time for such a performance, the carcass is flayed and quartered, and the
meat is either roasting before the fire or simmering in the stew-pan. The
lassoing and slaughter of a bullock is one of the most exciting sports of
the Californians; and the daring horsemanship and dexterous use of the
lariat usually displayed on these occasions are worthy of admiration. I
could not but notice the Golgotha-like aspect of the grounds surrounding the
house. The bones of cattle were thickly strewn in all directions, showing a
terrible slaughter of the four-footed tribe and a prodigious consumption of
flesh.
A carretada of fossil oyster-shells was shown to me by Mr.
Livermore, which had been hauled for the purpose of being manufactured into
lime. Some of these shells were eight inches in length, and of corresponding
breadth and thickness. They were dug from a hill two or three miles distant,
which is composed almost entirely of this fossil. Several bones belonging to
the skeleton of a whale, discovered by Mr. L. on the summit of one of the
highest elevations in the vicinity of his residence, were shown to me. The
skeleton when discovered was nearly perfect and entirely exposed, and its
elevation above the level of the sea between one and two thousand feet. How
the huge aquatic monster, of which this skeleton is the remains, managed to
make his dry bed on the summit of an elevated mountain, more experienced
geologists than myself will hereafter determine. I have an opinion on the
subject, however; but it is so contrary in some respects to the received
geological theories, that I will not now hazard it.
Leaving Mr. Livermore’s about nine o’clock A.M., we travelled three or
four miles over a level plain, upon which immense herds of cattle were
grazing. When we approached, they fled from us with as much alarm as herds
of deer and elk. From this plain we entered a hilly country, covered to the
summits of the elevations with wild oats and tufts or bunches of a species
of grass, which remains green through the whole season. Cattle were
scattered through these hills, and more sumptuous grazing they could not
desire. Small streams of water, fed by springs, flow through the hollows and
ravines, which, as well as the hill-sides, are timbered with the evergreen
oak and a variety of smaller trees. About two o’clock, p.m., we crossed an
arroyo which runs through a narrow gorge of the hills, and struck an
artificial wagon-road, excavated and embanked so as to afford a passage for
wheeled vehicles along the steep hill-side. A little farther on we crossed a
very rudely constructed bridge. These are the first signs of road-making I
have seen in the country. Emerging from the hills, the southern arm of the
Bay of San Francisco came in view, separated from us by a broad and fertile
plain, some ten or twelve miles in width, sloping gradually down to the
shore of the bay, and watered by several small creeks and estuaries.
We soon entered through a narrow street the mission of San José,
or St. Joseph. Passing the squares of one-story adobe buildings once
inhabited by thousands of busy Indians, but now deserted, roofless, and
crumbling into ruins, we reached the plaza in front of the church, and the
massive two story edifices occupied by the padres during the flourishing
epoch of the establishment. These were in good repair; but the doors and
windows, with the exception of one, were closed, and nothing of moving life
was visible except a donkey or two, standing near a fountain which gushed
its waters into a capacious stone trough. Dismounting from our mules, we
entered the open door, and here we found two Frenchmen dressed in sailor
costume, with a quantity of coarse shirts, pantaloons, stockings, and other
small articles, together with aguardiénte,
which they designed retailing to such of the natives in the vicinity as
chose to become their customers. They were itinerant merchants, or pedlars,
and had opened their wares here for a day or two only, or so long as they
could find purchasers.
Having determined to remain here the residue of the day and the night, we
inquired of the Frenchmen if there was any family in the place that could
furnish us with food. They directed us to a house on the opposite side of
the plaza, to which we immediately repaired. The senora, a dark-skinned and
rather shriveled and filthy specimen of the fair sex, but with a black,
sparkling, and intelligent eye, met us at the door of the miserable hovel,
and invited us in. In one corner of this wretched and foul abode was a pile
of raw hides, and in another a heap of wheat. The only furniture it
contained were two small benches, or stools, one of which, being higher than
the other, appeared to have been constructed for a table. We informed the
senora that we were travellers, and wished refreshment and lodgings for the
night. " Esta bueno, senores, esta bueno," was her reply; and she
immediately left us, and, opening the door of the kitchen, commenced the
preparation of our dinner. The interior of the kitchen, of which I had a
good view through the door, was more revolting in its filthiness than the
room in which we were seated. In a short time, so industrious was our
hostess, our dinner, consisting of two plates of jerked beef, stewed, and
seasoned with chile colorado, a plate of tortillas, and a bowl of coffee,
was set out upon the most elevated stool. There were no knives, forks, or
spoons, on the table. Our amiable land lady apologized for this deficiency
of table furniture, saying that she was " muy pobre " (very poor), and
possessed none of these table implements. "Fingers were made before forks,"
and in our recent travels we had learned to use them as substitutes, so that
we found no difficulty in conveying the meat from the plates to our mouths.
Belonging to the mission are two gardens, inclosed by high adobe walls.
After dinner we visited one of these. The area of the inclosure contains
fifteen or twenty acres of ground, the whole of which was planted with fruit
trees and grape-vines. There are about six hundred pear trees, and a large
number of apple and peach trees, all bearing fruit in great abundance and in
full perfection. The quality of the pears is excellent, but the apples and
peaches are indifferent. The grapes have been gathered, as I suppose, for I
saw none upon the vines, which appeared healthy and vigorous. The gardens
are irrigated with very little trouble, from large springs which flow from
the hills a short distance above them. Numerous aqueducts, formerly
conveying and distributing water over an extensive tract of land surrounding
the mission, are still visible, but as the land is not now cultivated, they
at present contain no water.
The mission buildings cover fifty acres of ground, perhaps more, and are
all constructed of adobes with tile roofs. Those houses or barracks which
were occupied by the Indian families are built in compact squares, one story
in height. They are generally partitioned into two rooms, one fronting on
the street, the other upon a court or corral in the rear. The main buildings
of the mission are two stories in height, with wide corridors in front and
rear. The walls are massive, and, if protected from the winter rains, will
stand for ages. But if exposed to the storms by the decay of the projecting
roofs, or by leaks in the main roof, they will soon crumble, or sink into
shapeless heaps of mud. I passed through extensive warehouses and immense
rooms, once occupied for the manufacture of woollen blankets and other
articles, with the rude machinery still standing in them, but unemployed.
Filth and desolation have taken the place of cleanliness and busy life. The
granary was very capacious, and its dimensions were an evidence of the
exuberant fertility of the soil, when properly cultivated under the
superintendence of the padres . The calaboose is a miserable dark room of
two apartments, one with a small loop-hole in the wall, the other a dungeon
without light or ventilation. The stocks, and several other inventions for
the punishment of offenders, are still standing in this prison. I requested
permission to examine the interior of the church, but it was locked up, and
no person in the mission was in possession of the key. Its length I should
suppose is from one hundred to one hundred and twenty feet, and its breadth
between thirty and forty, with small exterior pretensions to architectural
ornament or symmetry of proportions.
Returning from our rambles about the mission, we found that our landlady
had been reinforced by an elderly woman, whom she introduced as "mi madre,"
and two or three Indian muchachas, or girls, clad in a costume not differing
much from that of our mother Eve. The latter were obese in their figures,
and the mingled perspiration and filth standing upon their skins were any
thing but agreeable to the eye. The two senoras, with these handmaids near
them, were sitting in front of the house, busily engaged in executing some
needlework.
Supper being prepared and discussed, our landlady informed us that she
had a husband, who was absent, but would return in the course of the night,
and, if he found strange men in the house, he would be much offended with
her. She had therefore directed her muchachas to sweep out one of the
deserted and half-ruined rooms on the opposite square, to which we could
remove our baggage, and in which we could lodge during the night; and as
soon as the necessary preparations were made, we retired to our dismal
apartment. The "compound of villanous smells" which saluted our nostrils
when we entered our dormitory for the night augured unfavourably for repose.
The place had evidently been the abode of horses, cattle, pigs, and foul
vermin of every description. But with the aid of a dark-coloured
tallow-candle, which gave just light enough to display the murkiness and
filth surrounding us, we spread our beds in the cleanest places, and laid
down to rest. Distance travelled, 18 miles.
Armies of fleas – Leave the mission – Clover – Wild mustard – A carreta – Family travelling – Arrive at Pueblo de San José – Capt. Fisher – Description of the Pueblo – The embarcadero – Beautiful and fertile valley of the Pueblo – Absence of architectural taste in California – town squirrels – Fruit garden – Grapes – Tropical fruits – Gaming-rooms – Contrast between Californian and American gamesters – Leave San José – Beautiful avenue – Mission of Santa Clara – Rich but neglected lands – Effects of a bad government – A senora on the road-side – Kindness of Californian women – Fast riding – Cruel treatment of horses – Arrive at the mission of San Francisco – A poor but hospitable family – Arrive at the town of San Francisco – W. A Leidesdorff, Esq., American vice-consul – First view of the bay of San Francisco – Muchachos and Muchachas – Capt. Montgomery – U. S. sloop-of-war, Portsmouth – Town of San Francisco; its situation, appearance, population – Commerce of California – Extortion of the government and traders.
September 19. – Several Californians came into the mission during the
night or early this morning; among them the husband of our hostess, who was
very kind and cordial in his greetings.
While our man Jack was saddling and packing the mules, they gathered
around us to the number of a dozen or more, and were desirous of trading
their horses for articles of clothing; articles which many of them appeared
to stand greatly in need of, but which we had not to part from. Their
pertinacity exceeded the bounds of civility, as I thought; but I was not in
a good humour, for the fleas, bugs, and other vermin, which infested our
miserable lodgings, had caused me a sleepless night, by goring my body until
the blood oozed from the skin in countless places. These ruinous missions
are prolific generators, and the nurseries of vermin of all kinds, as the
hapless traveller who tarries in them a few hours will learn to his sorrow.
When these bloodthirsty assailants once make a lodgment in the clothing or
bedding of the unfortunate victim of their attacks, such are their courage
and perseverance, that they never capitulate. "Blood or death" is their
motto; – the war against them, to be successful, must be a war of
extermination.
Poor as our hostess was, she nevertheless was reluctant to receive any
compensation for her hospitality. We, however, insisted upon her receiving a
dollar from each of us (dos pesos), which she finally accepted; and after
shaking us cordially by the hand she bade us an affectionate adios, and we
proceeded on our journey.
From the Mission of San José to the
Pueblo of San José, the distance is
fifteen miles, for the most part over a level and highly fertile plain,
producing a variety of indigenous grasses, among which I noticed several
species of clover and mustard, large tracts of which we rode through, the
stalks varying from six to ten feet in height. The plain is watered by
several arroyos, skirted with timber, generally the evergreen oak.
We met this morning a Californian carreta, or travelling-cart, freighted
with women and children, bound on a pleasure excursion. The carreta is the
rudest specimen of the wheeled vehicle I have seen. The wheels are
transverse sections of a log, and are usually about 2 ½ feet in diameter,
and varying in thickness from the centre to the rim. These wheels are
coupled together by an axletree, into which a tongue is inserted. On the
axletree and tongue rests a frame, constructed of square pieces of timber,
six or eight feet in length, and four or five in breadth, into which are
inserted a number of stakes about four feet in length. This frame-work being
covered and floored with raw hides, the carriage is complete. The carreta
which we met was drawn by two yokes of oxen, driven by an Indian vaquero,
mounted on a horse. In the rear were two caballeros, riding fine spirited
horses, with gaudy trappings. They were dressed in steeple-crowned glazed
sombreros, serapes of fiery colours, velvet (cotton) calzoneros, white
cambric calzoncillos, and leggins and shoes of undressed leather. Their
spurs were of immense size.
The party halted as soon as we met them, the men touching their heavy
sombreros, and uttering the usual salutation of the morning, " Buenos dios,
senores," and shaking hands with us very cordially. The same salutation was
repeated by all the senoras and senoritas in the carreta . In dress and
personal appearance the women of this party were much inferior to the men,
Their skins were dark, sallow, and shriveled; and their costume, a loose
gown and reboso, were made of very common materials. The children, however,
were all handsome, with sparkling eyes and ruddy complexions. Women and
children were seated, a` la Turque, on the bottom of the carreta, there
being no raised seats in the vehicle.
We arrived at the Pueblo de San José
about twelve o’clock. There being no hotels in California, we were much at a
loss where to apply for refreshments and lodgings for the night. Soon,
however, we were met by Captain Fisher, a native of Massachusetts, but a
resident of this country for twenty years or more, who invited us to his
house. We were most civilly received by Senora F., who, although she did not
speak English, seemed to understand it very well. She is a native of the
southern Pacific coast of Mexico, and a lady of fine manners and personal
appearance. Her eldest daughter, about thirteen years of age, is very
beautiful. An excellent dinner was soon set out, with a variety of the
native wines of California and other liquors. We could not have felt
ourselves more happy and more at home, even at our own firesides and in the
midst of our own families.
The Pueblo de San José is a village
containing some six or eight hundred inhabitants. It is situated in what is
called the "Pueblo Valley," about fifteen miles south of the southern shore
of the Bay of San Francisco. Through a navigable creek, vessels of
considerable burden can approach the town within a distance of five or six
miles. The embarcadero, or landing, I think, is six miles from the Pueblo.
The fertile plain between this and the town, at certain seasons of the year,
is sometimes inundated. The "Pueblo Valley," which is eighty or one hundred
miles in length, varying from ten to twenty in breadth, is well watered by
the Rio Santa Clara and numerous arroyos, and is one of the most fertile and
picturesque plains in California . For pastoral charms, fertility of soil,
variety of productions, and delicious voluptuousness of climate and scenery,
it cannot be surpassed. This valley, if properly cultivated, would alone
produce breadstuffs enough to supply millions of population. The buildings
of the Pueblo, with few exceptions, are constructed of adobes, and none of
them have even the smallest pretensions to architectural taste or beauty.
The church, which is situated near the centre of the town, exteriorly
resembles a huge Dutch barn. The streets are irregular, every man having
erected his house in a positi